THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

GIFT  OF 
Martha  Green 


The 

HANDY 
COOK  BOOK 


With  a  Familiar  Talk  on  Cookery 

by 

MARION    HARLAND 


Illustrated 


C.  S.  HAMMOND  &  CO. 
NEW  YORK 


PREFATORY  AND  FAMILIAR  TALK 

BY  MARION   HARLAND. 


PRACTICALLY  it  is  impossible  to  overrate  the  value  of  the 
stomach  to  the  human  body. 

Educate  it  aright  and  treat  it  well,  and  it  is  a  stronghold 
of  reserved  and  active  forces  for  good.  Abuse  or  neglect  it, 
and  you  convert  it  into  an  enemy  who  will  harass  every 
moment  of  your  life. 

JEsop  told  this  story  two  thousand  five  hundred  years  ago, 
albeit  not  accurate  in  the  use  of  anatomical  terms.  If  I  had 
to  repeat  the  tale  I  should  reverse  the  order  of  actors  and 
show  what  would  come  to  pass  were  the  Stomach  in  hot 
mutiny  against  the  Members. 

It  is  in  the  power  of  this  central  force  to  withhold  iron 
and  coloring  matter  from  the  blood,  phosphates  and  marrow 
from  the  bones,  oils  from  the  flesh,  and  gray  matter  from 
the  brain.  All  this  and  more  it  does  not  scruple  to  do 
when  irritated,  ill-fed,  or  overworked. 

It  does  not  require  a  very  lively  imagination  to  picture 
this  all-important  organ  as  a  citadel  built  to  guard  the  hid 
treasures  of  life,  usefulness,  and  happiness.  Above  the 
gateway — as  we  may  style  the  diaphragm — is  some  such  in- 
scription as  was  cut  rudely  upon  the  muzzle  of  "  Queen 
Elizabeth's  Pocket  Piece,"  the  cannon  mounted  upon  the 
walls  of  Dover  Castle  and  frowning  across  the  English 
Channel  at  the  French  coast,  fifteen  miles  away: 

"  Aim  me  right  and  keep  me  clean — 
I'll  carry  a  ball  to  Calais  Green." 

It  follows,  from  even  an  imperfect  statement  of  the  many 
offices  performed  by  this  much  misunderstood  factor  in  the 

025  'K 


PREFATORY  AND  FAMILIAR  TALK. 

sum  of  human  welfare,  that  it  should  be  consulted  3utifully 
by  the  possessor  and  treated  with  respectful  consideration 
at  all  times. 

And  since  food — to  carry  out  the  figure  of  the  "  Pocket 
Piece  " — is  the  ammunition  without  which  the  citadel  could 
not  be  defended,  it  follows  yet  more  naturally,  that  supplies, 
sufficient  as  to  quantity  and  of  the  best  quality,  should  be 
provided  for  the  use  of  the  valiant  garrison  that  holds  the 
fort. 

If  the  stomach  be  the  fortified  castle  of  the  body  the 
kitchen  is  the  head  and  center  of  the  home.  If  there  be  but 
one  room  in  the  dwelling  that  one  room  is  the  kitchen.  The 
family  may  sleep  and  sit  and  eat  on  the  floor.  Beds,  stools, 
and  tables  are  luxuries.  'But  one  piece  of  furniture  is  a 
necessity.  That  is  the  range,  or  stove,  or  open  fireplace,  or 
brazier,  or  fire  of  sticks,  or  moss,  in  the  middle  of  the  wig- 
wam, where  food  is  prepared  for  the  stomach. 

The  domestic  staff  of  the  household  may  be  wanting  in 
chambermaid,  butler,  seamstress,  and  laundress.  A  cook  of 
some  sort  is  a  must-be. 

These  are  not  empty  or  didactic  sayings,  but  a  line  of 
argument  which  he  who  runs,  or  she  who  swings  away  the 
hours  in  that  nest  of  idle  ease,  the  American  rocker,  may 
read;  which  every  woman  should  ponder  and  lay  up  in  her 
heart. 

I  write  it  down,  without  fear  of  contradiction,  that  there 
is  more  excellent  raw  food-material  spoiled  in  the  United 
States  than  in  any  other  country  marked  upon  geographical 
charts  as  "  enlightened."  It  is  a  waste  of  words  to  add  that 
the  American  dyspepsia  is  as  familiarly  known  to  the  scien- 
tific man  of  medicine  as  Asiatic  cholera.  From  cradle  to 
deathbed,  three-fourths  of  our  population  suffer  from  the 
slow  poison  of  their  daily  food. 

The  most  hopeless  part  of  the  problem  is  that  a  mighty 
majority  of  the  unfortunates  do  not  suspect  that  they  are 
poisoned.  In  other  words,  cooks,  and  those  who  consume 


PREFATORY  AND  FAMILIAR  TALK. 

what  is  prepared  by  the  cooks,  do  not  know  good  foo'd  from 
bad. 

Greasy  soups,  "  fried  things,"  reeking  within  and  with- 
out with  fat;  heavy,  hot  breads;  badly  cooked  vegetables; 
leathery  or  oily  pastry,  are  swallowed  (and  regretted)  in 
crass  ignorance  that  is  not  bliss,  but  sin  and  misery.  j| 

The  "  Spectator  "  of  Addison  and  Steele  suggested  in  a 
serio-comic  paper  that  no  girl  should  be  allowed  to  marry 
who  could  not  show  a  complete  assortment  of  household 
and  body  linen  made  up  by  herself  in  proof  of  her  ability 
to  care  for  her  household. 

In  all  seriousness  I  assert  that,  were  I  a  legislator,  I  should 
introduce,  and  force  forward,  a  bill  to  the  effect  that  no 
woman  should  be  married  until  she  had  learned  practical 
cookery  in  all  its  branches.  She  should  know  how  to  mar- 
ket judiciously,  what  articles  of  food  are  nutritious,  and 
what  are  not.  She  should  be  so  well  versed  in  the  chemistry 
of  cookery  and  the  structure  and  needs  of  the  human  system 
as  to  understand  how  to  adapt  nourishment  to  the  various 
constitutions  of  those  for  whom  she  caters.  She  should 
master  the  small  economies  that  make  the  Frenchwoman 
mistress  of  the  art  of  furnishing  her  table  daintily  at  the 
lowest  cost. 

The  old  bachelor  who  married  his  maid-of-all-work  be- 
cause he  could  not  afford  to  keep  both  cook  and  wife,  and 
could  not  do  without  a  cook,  was  not  such  a  simpleton 
after  all.  Man  needs  aliment  that  will  give  him  staying- 
power  in  the  day  of  battle,  which  is  every  day  in  this,  our 
land  of  push  and  competition.  The  woman  who  equips 
him  for  the  fray  by  sending  him  forth  to  his  daily  labor  and 
strife  with  a  stomach  comfortably  lined  with  the  sort  of  food 
that,  as  -old-fashioned  folk  say,  "  will  stick  to  his  ribs,"  is  a 
genuine  helpmeet. 

Sympathy  and  sentiment  are  good  as  far  as  they  go,  but 
they  do  not  go  nearly  all  the  way.  A  faint  stomach  makes 
a  faint  heart.  Well-chosen,  well-cooked,  and  palatable 


PREFATORY  AND  FAMILIAR  TALK. 

meals,  eaten  leisurely  and  in  gladness  and  singleness  of 
heart,  are  a  bank  from  which  one  draws  an  assured  income 
of  daily  strength  for  daily  needs. 

Our  housewife  may  be  so  well  off  that  she  can  hire  a  suc- 
cession of  cooks  all  her  days.  If  she  have  no  practical 
knowledge  of  their  craft  she  is  like  a  sailing-master  who  de- 
pends upon  first  and  second  mate  for  his  success  in  naviga- 
tion. She  is  at  the  mercy  of  such  winds  and  tides  as  are 
represented  by  the  moods  and  tenses  of  a  guild  whose  tem- 
pers are  notoriously  uncertain.  It  is  not  enough  for  her  to 
order  three  meals  a  day.  She  must  know  how  each  dish  is 
to  be  prepared,  what  is  amiss  should  the  cookery  be  un- 
satisfactory, and  how  to  right  the  wrong. 

Her  husband  could  not  keep  for  one  month  the  post  of 
superintendent  of  workmen  who  know  their  business  better 
than  he.  The  woman  who  is  her  own  cook,  or  could  be 
should  need  arise,  has  the  whip-hand  from  the  outset  of  her 
housewifely  career.  Nothing  else  so  commands  and  retains 
the  respect  of  the  servant  as  the  consciousness  that  her  em- 
ployer could  do  the  hireling's  work  better  than  she  herself 
can,  if  she  were  obliged  to  undertake  it. 

If  I  speak  in  forceful  earnest  in  commending  the  study 
and  the  practice  of  the  culinary  art  to  every  sensible  woman, 
it  is  because  many  years  of  experience  and  observation  have 
convinced  me  that  no  other  accomplishment  is  so  essential 
to  the  health  and  happiness  of  husband  and  children,  or  of 
whomsoever  the  housemother  may  be  in  charge  of,  tempo- 
rarily or  permanently. 

If  our  national  kitchen  is  to  be  redeemed  from  deserved 
reproach  it  will  be,  not  by  cooking-school  lectures  or  writ- 
ten instructions,  but  by  the  intelligent,  sustained  efforts  of 
the  woman  who  is  her  own  cook. 

MARION  HARLAND. 

SUNNYBANK,  September,  1900. 


Table  of  Contents 


DOMESTIC  COOKERY, 15 

1.  THE  ART  OF  COOKING, i'7 

2.  SOUPS,  SOUP  STOCK,  ETC 35 

3.  FISH,  OYSTERS,  ETC 46 

4.  POULTRY  AND  GAME 61 

5.  MEATS, 70 

i.  Beef, 70 

ii.  Veal, 76 

iii.  Mutton  and  Lamb, 82 

iv.  Pork, 85 

6.  VEGETABLES, 91 

7.  SALADS  AND  SAUCES, 102 

8.  CROQUETTES  AND  FRITTERS, in 

9.  EGGS, .  117 

10.  BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC., 126 

i.  Bread,        126 

ii.  Toast,        131 

iii.  Fancy  Breads, 132 

iv.  Rolls, .>....  134 

v.  Biscuit,  Rusk,   and  Buns, 136 

vi.  Muffins  and  Waffles, 140 

vii.  Griddle  Cakes 142 

viii.  Yeast  and  Yeast  Cakes 145 

11.  PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS, 148 

12.  CREAMS,  JELLIES,  AND  LIGHT  DESSERTS, 166 

13.  CAKES  AND  CAKE  BAKING, 179 

14.  FRESH  FRUITS  AND  NUTS, 201 

15.  JELLIES,  JAMS  AND  PRESERVES, 207 

16.  CANNED  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES, 219 

17.  PICKLES  AND  CATSUPS, 224 

18.  BEVERAGES, 234 

19.  CANDIES, 242 

20.  INVALID  DIET, ;.......>...  248 

GENERAL  HINTS, ,     ...  254 


DOMESTIC  COOKERY. 


rpHERE  is  a  beautiful  legend  that  tells  how  Elizabeth  oJ 
1 1  Hungary,  having  been  forbidden  by  her  lord  to  carry 
food  to  the  poor,  was  met  by  him  one  day  outside  the 
castle  walls  as  she  was  bearing  a  lapful  of  meat  and  bread 
to  her  pensioners.  Louis  demanding  sternly  what  she  car- 
ried in  her  robe,  she  was  obliged  to  show  him  the  forbidden 
burden.  "  Whereupon,"  says  the  chronicler,  "  the  food  was 
miraculously  changed,  for  his  eyes,  to  a  lapful  of  roses, 
red  and  white,  and  his  mind  disabused  of  suspicion,  he  gra- 
ciously bade  her  pass  on  withersoever  she  would." 

It  would  be  well  for  some  husbands  if  "  their  eyes  were 
holden  "  in  such  a  way  that  food  served  them  would  seem 
other  and  better  than  it  really  is.  But  the  sense  of  taste  is 
a  rebellious  member — especially  in  the  men.  It  will  cry  out 
against  the  best  appearing  dish,  if  its  flavor  is  not  of  the 
best.  There  is  but  one  way  to  sure  success.  The  house- 
wife herself  must  be  the  angel  who  casts  the  spell  about  the 
humble  board  and  the  lowly  fare,  and  invests  them  with 
forms  and  odors  of  irresistible  attractiveness.  This  is  the 
true  poetry  of  Domestic  Cookery;  and  blessed  is  the 
home  where  one  presides  who  knows  this  art,  and  makes 
each  meal  a  feast,  and  every  guest  a  glad  participant. 


16,  DOMESTIC  COOKERY. 

But  things  do  not  always  take  so  happy  a  form.  For 
instance :  there  was  recently  a  brutal  murder  in  Troy,  N.  Y., 
and  a  paper,  reporting  the  case,  clumsily  said  :  "  A  poor 
woman  was  killed  yesterday  in  her  own  home,  while  cooking 
her  husband's  breakfast  in  a  shocking  manner."  Quoting 
this  statement,  a  contemporary  remarked :  "  There  are 
many  women  who  cook  their  husbands'  breakfasts  in  a 
shocking  manner,  but  it  is  seldom  that  justice  overtakes 
them  so  summarily."  The  subject  is  a  serious  one  to  joke 
over,  but  the  turn  given  by  the  commenting  paper  is  bright 
and  suggestive. 

The  fact  is,  that  by  skillful  manipulation  the  plainest  fare 
may  be  transformed  into  dishes  fit  for  kings,  while  by  igno- 
rance and  inattention  the  best  viands  may  be  rendered  unfit 
for  human  food.  Which  turn  should  housewives  attempt  to 
give  their  own  culinary  affairs?  There  can  be  but  one 
reply.  But,  be  it  remembered,  that  freaks  of  favoring  for- 
tune, such  as  came  to  Elizabeth,  come  only  to  those  who 
are  zealously  pursuing  the  line  of  helpful  duty.  There  is 
no  royal  road  to  success  as  a  housekeeper  or  a  cook.  You 
must  "  work  your  passage,"  but  the  way  will  be  smoothed 
by  careful  study  of  pages  such  as  follow,  provided  the  study 
take  shape  in  wise  action. 

Remember,  too,  that  the  ministry  of  Domestic  Cookery 
is  by  no  means  an  unimportant  one.  It  is  worthy  of  the 
best  attention  of  any  housewife. 

"  The  stomach,"  says  an  eminent  medical  authority,  "  is 
the  mainspring  of  our  system  ;  if  it  be  not  sufficiently  wound 
up  to  warm  and  support  the  circulation,  the  whole  business 
of  life  will,  in  proportion,  be  ineffectually  performed ;  we  can 
neither  think  with  precision,  walk  with  vigor,  sit  down  with 
comfort,  nor  sleep  with  tranquility.  There  would  be  no 
difficulty  in  proving  that  it  influences  (much  more  than 
people  imagine)  all  our  actions."  Dyspepsia  is  a  fearful  foe 
to  the  human  race. 


I— THE  ART  OF  COOKING. 

'T^HERE  is  a  science  and  there  is  an  art  of  cooking.     The 

science  tells  what  should  be  done  and  why ;  the  art  takes 

hold  and  does  the  thing,  without,  in  most  cases,  knowing 

any  reason  why  certain   methods  produce  certain  results. 

The  one  is  theoretical,  the  other  practical ;  the  one  deals 

with  principles,  the  other  with  performances. 

The  science  of  cookery  proceeds  on  the  basis  that  man 
needs  certain  elements  of  repair  and  growth  for  the  various 
tissues  of  his  body,  that  these  elements  exist  in  nature  in 
various  forms,  and  that  the  mission  of  the  cook  is  so  to 
prepare  these  suitable  substances  that  man  may  receive 
them  in  their  most  enjoyable  and  assimilable  forms,  and  thus 
have  his  waste  repaired  and  his  growth  provided  for.  This 
basis  is  solid.  On  it  the  whole  culinary  system  is  founded. 
But,  from  the  merely  utilitarian  idea  of  repairing  waste  and 
supplying  force,  cookery  rises  to  the  supreme  height  of 
exquisitely  delighting  the  taste  while  doing  its  most  impor- 
tant work  of  feeding  the  body.  Indeed,  the  art  of  cooking 
well,  and  of  serving  well-cooked  victuals  well,  is  "  a  fine  art  " 
in  the  best  sense  of  the  term.  There  are  artistes  in 
this  line.  Meals  may  be  served  artistically.  They  may 
become  a  delight  to  the  most  refined  natures  and  a  real 
benefaction  to  both  body  and  soul. 

The  great  aim  of  all  cooking  is  to  retain  all  the  valuable 
elements  of  the  food,  and  to  put  them  into  such  forms  as 
shall  awake  desire,  stimulate  digestion,  and  secure  to  the 
eater,  in  the  readiest  and  most  pleasing  way,  all  the  nutriment 
these  viands  afford.  For  instance,  in  cooking  meats  it  is 
desirable  to  retain  all  the  natural  juices.  To  this  end,  when 
meat  is  to  be  boiled  it  should  be  plunged  into  hot  water, 
which  at  once  renders  the  outer  part  measurably  impenetraf 
a  17 


18  EVERY   WOMAtf  HER  OWN  COOK. 

ble,  ana  so  confines  the  juices.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the 
juices  are  to  be  drawn  out  for  the  production  of  soup,  it 
must  be  placed  in  cold  water,  and  gradually  warmed  and 
slowly  boiled,  so  as  to  allow  the  exudation  of  the  juices. 
On  the  same  principle,  broiling  and  roasting,  by  quickly  clos- 
ing the  surface  of  the  meat,  retain  the  juices  as  well  as  the 
odors,  and  make  the  meat  both  juicy  and  savory.  The  re- 
tention of  the  fatty  substances  renders  such  preparations 
somewhat  less  digestible,  however,  than  boiled  food  or  lean 
meat. 

High  art  in  cookeiy,  as  elsewhere,  demands  high  rates  ol 
expenditure.  Instructions  on  that  grade  alone  would  not 
meet  the  want  of  American  homes.  But  high  aims  in  this 
department  are  equally  commendable  with  high  aims  else- 
where. So  important  a  factor  in  domestic  economy  as  cook* 
ing  cannot  be  ignored  and  should  not  be  treated  lightly. 
Good  food,  well  cooked  and  well  served,  goes  far  to  make 
home  happy  and  its  inmates  healthy. 

The  chemical  aspect  of  food  and  cooking  may  be  left  to 
the  chemist  and  the  physiologist.  They  will  perfect  the 
scientific  aspects  of  the  case.  But  the  art  of  cooking,  which 
teaches  just  how  and  when  to  do  the  right  things,  is  for  us 
to  learn  and  to  practice  day  by  day.  Such  is  the  relation  of 
stomach  and  brain  on  the  one  side,  and  of  stomach  and 
cook  on  the  other  side,  that  the  cook  becomes  the  sov- 
ereign, to  whom  many  a  brain  mightier  than  his  own 
bows  in  servile  allegiance. 

What  cookery  was  practiced  in  the  garden  of  Eden  his- 
tory does  not  tell.  Vegetarians  insist  that  permission  to 
eat  animal  food  was  not  given  until  after  the  flood  (Genesis 
xi,  3,  4),  when,  by  indulgence,  man's  appetites  had  become 
abnormal.  If  vegetable  food  only  were  used  in  Eden,  and 
that  mainly  of  the  nature  of  fruits,  but  little  cooking  was 
needed,  and  the  simplest  forms  would  suffice  amply.  Ancient 
Writers  say  that  cooking  came  into  use  immediately  on  the 


TffE  AKT  OF  COOKING.  19 

discovery  of  fire,  whenever  that  was,  and  that  its  introduc- 
tion was  in  imitation  of  the  natural  processes  of  mastication 
and  digestion. 

The  first  reference  of  the  Bible  to  cooked  food  is  to  "a  mor- 
sel of  bread"  (Genesis  xviii,  5).  Sarah,  in  this  instance,  made 
ready  "  three  measures  of  fine  meal,"  which  she  kneaded, 
and  of  which  she  made  cakes  "  upon  the  hearth."  These 
were,  doubtless,  the  simplest  form  of  unleavened  cakes. 


UNLEAVENED  BREAD,  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  FORMS. 

flattened  thin  and  baked  upon  a  hot  stone.  A  tender  calf 
was  hastily  dressed  on  this  occasion  also,  but  whether  by 
boiling  or  stewing,  by  roasting  on  a  hot  stone  or  by  broil- 
ing over  the  fire  on  the  point  of  a  stick,  is  not  known.  Cer- 
tainly, the  whole  dressing  required  but  little  time  and  was 
not  very  elaborate.  For  these  same  guests  Lot  baked  un- 
leavened bread,  and,  as  the  record  is,  "  he  made  them  a 
feast,"  quite  hurried  and  simple,  no  doubt. 

When  Abraham's  servant,  searching  for  a  wife  for  Isaac, 
reached  her  father's  house,  "  they  did  eat  and  drink,"  un- 
questionably in  a  festive  way.  Isaac  was  so  fond  of  veni- 
son that  he  became  unduly  partial  to  his  son  Esau,  who 
excelled  as  a  hunter  in  capturing  game  for  this  dish.  The 
preparation  of  the  meat  was  in  some  elaborate  style,  which 
Isaac  denominated  "  savory  meat,"  and  the  eating  of  it  so 
pleased  him  that  he  spoke  of  it  as  the  meat  "  that  I  love," 
and  asked  it  "  that  I  may  eat,  and  that  my  soul  may  blew 


20  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

thee  before  I  die."  Irreverent  critics  may  say  this  was  man* 
like,  but  reverent  ones  will  pronounce  it  quite  human,  and 
all  may  conclude  that  cookery  was  taking  attractive  shapes 
in  that  early  day.  So  Esau  thought,  undoubtedly,  upon  see- 
ing his  brother  Jacob  with  a  pottage  of  red  lentiles.  He  was 
willing  to  sell  out  his  birthright,  with  all  its  high  preroga- 
tives, that  he  might  eat  of  this  tempting  dish.  All  these  in* 
cidents  from  the  book  of  Genesis  indicate  that  punctuality 
at  the  table  and  systematic  forethought  for  its  proper  service 
were  undeveloped  arts  at  that  time.  Many  later  Biblical 
references  indicate  a  higher  state  of  culture  in  these  respects, 
sumptuous  fare  and  great  feasts  being  matters  of  frequent 
reference.  In  the  ceremonial  law  many  directions  were  given 
concerning  the  killing  and  the  cooking  of  animal  food. 

Ovens  are  often  mentioned  in  the  Bible.     In  the  cities  and 
villages  they  were  located  generally  in  the  establishments 
of  bakers  (Hosea  vii,  4),  or  in  large  private  establishments. 
Portable  ovens  were  used  by  many  who  lived  in  a  nomadic 
way.     The  portable  oven  was  a  large  earthen  jar,  widening 
at  the  bottom,  and  having  a  side  opening  there  by  which  to 
extract  the  ashes  and  to  insert  the  bread 
or  meat.     These  are  referred  to  as  the 
possession  of  every  family,  in  Exodus 
viii,  3 ;  though  in  time  of  destitution,  or 
scarcity  of  fuel,  one  oven  answered  for 
many  families,  as  Leviticus  xxvi,  26, 
shows.     These  ovens  could  be  hastily 
heated  by  a  quick  fire  of  twigs,  grasses, 
etc.,  whi^h  fuel  suggested  the  reference 
ANCIENTV|GYPTIAN     in  Matthew  vi,  30,  to  grass,  which  to-day 
is  in  the  field  and  to-morrow  is  cast  into 
the  oven.     Loaves  or  meat  were  placed   inside,  and  thin 
cakes  upon  the  outside  of  these  ovens. 

The  remote  East,  the  land  of  spices,  was  the  first  to 
develop  cookery  in  its  higher  ranges.    Carefully  wrought 


THE  ART  OF1  COOKING.  21 

and  highly  seasoned  dishes  were  first  prepared  there.  Many 
curious  notions  are  recorded  of  the  various  nations  in  re- 
spect to  food  and  cooking.  The  universal  custom  in  Oriental 
lands  is  to  cook  meat  as  soon  as  killed.  It  never  becomes 
cold,  as  with  us.  Goose  is  a  great  favorite  with  the  Egyp- 
tians. Plutarch  says  only  one  class  of  this  nation  would 
eat  mutton,  and  at  Thebes  it  was  wholly  prohibited.  Pud- 
dings made  from  the  blood  of  slaughtered  animals  were 
favored  by  Egyptians  but  hated  by  Moslems.  Egyptians 
never  ate  the  head  of  any  animal.  Pastry  among  them  was 
worked  into  the  shapes  of  animals,  and  was  always  sprinkled 
with  caraway  and  anise. 

The  Greeks  esteemed  cookery  so  highly,  that  royal  per- 
sonages took  pride  in  preparing  their  own  meals.  Homer's 
poems  contain  many  illustrations  of  such  service. 
Achilles  once  personally  served  up  a  great  feast,  its  special 
feature  being  that  smaller  meats  were  garnished  with 
entrails  of  oxen.  It  was  common  at  great  feasts  of  the 
Greeks  to  dedicate  certain  dishes  to  certain  gods,  and  then 
to  eat  them  in  honor  of  those  gods. 

In  the  time  of  Pericles  a  class  of  professional  cooks  had 
come  into  prominence  who  boasted  that  they  could  serve 
up  a  whole  pig,  boiled  on  one  side,  roasted  on  the  other, 
stuffed  with  cooked  birds,  eggs,  and  other  delicacies,  and 
yet  the  whole  so  neatly  done  that  it  could  not  be  discovered 
where  the  animal  had  been  opened.  Invention  was  then 
taxed  to  invent  a  new  cake,  or  a  new  sauce,  and  he  who  did 
it  was  deemed  worthy  of  high  honor.  One  Greek  distin- 
guished himself  by  devising  a  new  method  of  curing  hams «, 
another  devised  a  cake  which  took  his  name  and  made  him 
famous.  In  Athenian  dishes,  assafoetida  was  a  popular 
ingredient,  as  were  rue  and  garlick. 

To  compound  one  famous  dish,  certain  uninviting  parts  of 
sows,  asses,  hawks,  seals,  porpoises,  star-fish,  etc.,  were 
used.  One  visitor  to  Greece,  having  eaten  a  celebrated 


22  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

"  black  broth,"  said  he  had  learned  why  the  Spartans  were 
in  battle  so  fearless  of  death,  as  the  pains  of  death  were 
preferable  to  existence  on  such  abominable  food.  A  Greek 
poet,  Archistratus,  traveled  the  world  over  to  study  the 
gastronomic  art,  and  then  wrote  a  poem,  "  Gastrology," 
which  became  the  standard  among  Greek  epicures.  Greek 
cooks  took  special  pride  in  so  flavoring  and  disguising  com- 
mon fish  and  meat,  that  epicures  even  would  be  deceived  by 
their  preparations. 

Roman  cooking  surpassed  the  Grecian  in  the  more  solid 
dishes,  until  the  decline  of  the  Empire  began,  when  Roman 
epicures  and  gluttons  came  to  the  front  and  soon  surpassed 
the  world.  Fishes,  birds,  and  wines  were  their  chief  delica- 
cies, and  to  secure  those  of  rarest  quality  the  known  world 
was  laid  under  contribution.  There  is  record  of  a  single 
feast  at  which  were  served  peacocks  from  Samos,  chickens 
from  Phrygia,  kids  from  Melos,  cranes  from  ^Etolia,  tunny 
fishes  from  Chalcedon,  pikes  from  Pessinus,  oysters  from 
Tarentum,  mussels  from  Chios,  dates  from  Egypt,  and  inci- 
dentals from  as  many  more  points.  Snails  were  fattened 
for  table  uses  till  their  shells  would  contain  a  quart ;  fishes 
and  birds  were  fed  on  the  choicest  dainties  to  prepare  them 
for  human  food,  while  even  hogs  were  fattened  on  whey 
and  dates. 

Lucullus  was  in  the  habit  of  spending  fifty  thousand 
denarii  (about  eight  thousand  dollars)  on  each  of  his  sump- 
tuous feasts.  Galba's  daily  breakfasts  were  each  of  sufficient 
cost  to  feed  a  hundred  families.  Vitellius  made  a  single 
dish  of  pheasants'  brains,  peacocks'  brains,  nightingales' 
tongues,  and  livers  of  the  rarest  fishes.  Its  cost  was  one 
thousand  sesterces  (about  forty  thousand  dollars).  On 
another  occasion  two  thousand  choice  fishes  and  seven 
thousand  rare  birds  were  served  by  him.  It  is  said  his 
kitchen  expenses  for  four  months  amounted  to  twenty-five 
million  dollars. 


THE  ART  OF  COOKING.  Q& 

Heliogabalus  had  a  favorite  dish  for  his  own  suppers 
made  from  the  brains  of  six  hundred  thrushes.  Pork  was 
the  choice  Roman  dish  at  a  later  day.  It  was  often  served 
in  the  famous  style  already  referred  to,  being  half  baked, 


ANCIENT  ROMAN  COOKING  UTENSILS. 

i.    Sugar,  or  Vegetable  Boiler. 2.  Frying  Pan. 3.  Measuring  Urn.- 4.  Boiler,  OB 

Tripod. 

half  boiled,  and  stuffed  with  birds,  eggs,  etc.  The  process 
of  this  preparation  was  long  a  profound  and  marvelous 
secret.  It  was  accomplished,  however,  by  bleeding  the 
animal  under  the  shoulder,  removing  the  intestines  by  the 


24  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

throat,  and  refilling  by  the  same  passage.  The  upper  side 
was  then  baked  while  the  lower  lay  imbedded  in  a  thick 
paste  of  barley  meal  mixed  with  wine  and  oil.  The  paste 
was  then  removed  and  the  lower  side  boiled  in  a  shallow 
saucepan. 


ANCIENT  ROMAN  COOKING  UTENSILS,1 

i.  Measure  for  Grain. 2.  Kitchen  Boiler. 3.  Fire  Grate. 4.  Pitcher,  or  Um,  far 

Fluids. 

Cooking  utensils  were  elaborately  made  for  the  homes  of 
the  rich.  The  finest  grades  were  made  of  bronze,  and 
usually  they  were  plated  with  silver.  Some  articles  were 
of  brass,  others  even  of  silver.  Kitchens  were  royal  apart- 
ments then,  many  of  them  having  marble  floors  and  being 
decorated  with  costly  paintings.  Even  the  aspirations  of 


THE  ART  OF  COOKING.  23 

our  modern  "  help  "  would  have  been  gratified  fully  by  the 
kitchen  appointments  of  those  days.  Schools  of  cookery, 
under  the  most  accomplished  professional  care,  were  nu- 
merous at  that  time. 

One  of  the  most  princely  pieces  of  extravagance  ever 
brought  out  by  good  cooking  was  in  the  case  of  Antony. 
When  Cleopatra  praised  a  repast  he  furnished,  Antony  at 
once  called  the  cook  and  presented  him  with  a  city.  An- 
other piece  of  extravagance  was  when  Lucullus  entertained 


ANCIENT  ROMAN  COOKING  UTENSILS. 

t.  Bowl.— ^—2.  Soup  Pot. 3.   Grater. 4.  Measure  for  Fluids. 5.  Cook's  Knife. 

- — 6.  Hashing  Knife. 

Cicero  and  Pompey.  They  three  partook  of  a  little  feast 
which  cost  not  less  than  five  thousand  dollars.  Geta  in- 
sisted on  as  many  courses  at  his  state  dinners  as  there  were 
letters  in  the  alphabet,  and  each  course  was  required  to 
contain  every  viand  known,  the  name  of  which  began  with 
that  letter.  Alexander  the  Great  once  entertained  ten 
thousand  guests,  all  of  whom  were  seated  at  the  tables  at 
one  time,  and  in  silver  chairs  upholstered  with  purple.  Pos- 
sibly the  most  extensive  "  spread "  ever  made  was  by  the 

Karl  pf  Warwick  when  &s  brother  was  installed  Arch- 


26  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

bishop  of  York  in  1479.  The  record  of  its  appointments  is 
as  follows  :  300  quarters  of  wheat,  300  tuns  of  ale,  104  tuns 
of  wine,  I  pipe  of  spiced  wine,  10  fat  oxen,  6  wild  bulls,  300 
pigs,  1,004  sheep,  300  hogs,  3,000  calves,  300  capons,  100 
peacocks,  200  cranes,  200  kids,  2,000  chickens,  4,000  pig- 
eons, 4,000  rabbits,  4,000  ducks,  204  bitterns,  400  herons, 
200  pheasants,  500  partridge,  5,000  woodcocks,  400  plovers, 
100  curlews,  100  quails,  100,000  eggs,  200  roes,  4,000  roe- 
bucks, 155  hot  venison  pasties  and  4,000  of  them  cold, 
1,000  dishes  of  jellies,  2,000  hot  custards  and  4,000  of  them 
cold,  400  tarts,  300  pikes,  300  bream,  8  seals,  and  4  por- 
poises. The  Earl  in  person  was  steward;  1,000  servitors, 
62  chief  cooks,  and  515  under  cooks  and  scullions  offi- 
ciated on  this  monster  occasion. 

After  the  fifth  century  it  is  said  that  "  cookery,  like  learn- 
ing, retired  into  convents."  For  several  centuries  religious 
houses  alone  were  the  abodes  of  good  cooking.  In  the 
tenth  century  the  art  reappeared  among  the  wealthier  citizens 
of  Italy.  Discoveries  of  new  countries  and  the  increasing 
activity  of  commerce  continually  enlarged  the  field  for  gas- 
tronomic delights.  Italy,  the  leader  in  fine  cookery  in  those 
days,  began  to  send  her  methods  and  her  cooks  into  France, 
where  they  received  a  hearty  welcome  from  Catharine  de 
Medici  and  her  royal  spouse.  Under  these  fostering  im- 
pulses several  cities  became  famous  for  specialties  in  food ; 
Hamburg,  for  example,  for  hams,  Strasburg  for  sausages, 
Amsterdam  for  herrings,  Ostend  for  oysters,  Chartres  for 
pies,  etc.,  etc. 

The  ancient  Britons  and  Saxons  knew  none  of  the  refine- 
ments of  the  culinary  art.  Their  meal  was  simple  bruised 
barley ;  their  meat,  half-cooked  game.  The  Danes  did 
more  at  drinking  than  at  eating,  at  brewing  than  at  baking. 
The  Normans,  however,  introduced  the  better  styles  of  food 
and  the  cook  again  loomed  up  grandly.  So  great  was 
the  excess  of  these  times  that  the  friars  of  St  Swithin's  com* 


THE  ART  OF  COOKING.  27 

plained  to  King  Henry  II  that  three  of  their  thirteen  regu« 
iar  dinner  courses  had  been  withheld  from  them  by  their 
abbot.  Cranmer  ordered,  in  1541,  that  archbishops  should 
be  limited  to  six  dishes  of  meat  daily,  bishops  to  five,  and 
lower  orders  of  clergy  to  four,  or  three  in  certain  cases. 
The  poultry  to  be  used  was  also  limited,  and  the  fish. 

After  the  Crusades  the  higher  classes  of  England  imitated 
the  luxurious  methods  they  had  learned  abroad.  Peacocks  be- 
came a  favorite  dish.  They  were  usually  served  with  the 
tail  feathers  remaining  and  spread  to  their  fullest  extent.  In 
the  reign  of  Elizabeth  cooks  reached  the  zenith  of  their 
power,  many  classical  scholars  willingly  espousing  this  pro- 
fession. 

The  early  inhabitants  of  France  subsisted  chiefly  on  roots 
and  acorns.  After  their  subjugation  by  Caesar  they  quickly 
took  on  the  Roman  methods,  and  later  the  Norman  methods, 
until  in  the  fourteenth  century  they  produced  Taillevant, 
the  greatest  cook  of  history.  In  the  reign  of  Louis  XII  a 
company  was  chartered  to  make  sauces  and  another  to  cook 
meats  on  the  spit.  These  were  the  days  when  fancy  cook- 
ing ran  toward  the  impossible.  Eggs  cooked  on  the  spit, 
butter  fried,  roasted,  etc.,  were  the  surprising  delicacies 
produced  by  the  masters  of  gastronomy. 

In  the  days  of  Louis  XIV  cookery  in  France  was  at  its 
height  of  sumptuousness.  A  reaction  in  favor  of  modera- 
tion then  began  to  prevail.  Cooks  were  out  of  employment. 
Restaurants  then  appeared  under  their  care,  and  they  soon 
found  abundant  patronage.  Careme,  of  France,  is  con- 
fessedly the  greatest  of  modern  French  cooks.  He  has 
exalted  the  science  of  cookery  while  he  has  nobly  advanced 
the  art. 

There  are  several  national  or  provincial  dishes  which  are 
well  known ;  for  example,  the  roast  beef  and  plum  pudding 
of  England ;  the  sauerkraut  of  Germany ;  the  salt  beef  of 
Holland ;  the  fittau  of  Turkey  (made  of  rice  and  mutton 


28  EVERY   WOMAN-  HER  OWN  COOK. 

fat) ;  the  macaroni  of  Italy ;  the  potatoes  of  Ireland ;  the 
oat-meal  of  Scotland ;  the  pork  and  beans  and  the  pumpkin 
pie  of  New  England. 

Books  on  the  science  and  the  art  of  cookery  are 
numerous.  The  oldest  dates  from  the  last  half  of  the  four- 
teenth century.  It  is  from  a  Frenchman,  Le  Sage,  who  has 
blended  moral  maxims  and  culinary  recipes  in  a  wonderful 
manner.  The  next  in  order  is  from  Taillevant,  already 
referred  to,  dated  1392.  Scappi,  chief  cook  to  Pope  Pius 
V,  published  a  valuable  book  on  cookery  in  1570.  So  have 
they  been  multiplied  as  the  years  have  rolled  by,  and  one 
who  is  not  an  expert  in  cookery  cannot  lay  his  defect  at  the 
door  of  authors  or  publishers. 

But  books  are  not  sufficient  to  elevate  a  people.  There 
must  be  instruction,  by  which  the  text-books  may  be  ex- 
pounded and  their  lessons  be  illustrated  to  the  masses.  The 
art  of  cookery  must  be  learned,  as  are  the  other  arts.  There 
are  those  who  say  that  domestic  cooking  should  be  learned 
in  the  home — that  the  mother  should  teach  the  daughters,, 
and  that  skill  and  knowledge  should  thus  be  handed  down 
from  generation  to  generation.  This  is  a  splendid  theory ; 
but  if  the  mothers  themselves  are  ignorant  and  unskillful, 
what  then  can  be  hoped  for  from  the  daughters  ?  Then,  too, 
a  fixed  set  of  culinary  traditions  would  be  handed  down  in 
each  family  by  this  method,  and  the  children  would  follow 
the  ways  of  the  parents,  irrespective  of  better  ways  practiced 
by  their  next-door  neighbors. 

In  the  face  of  these  facts,  it  was  not  at  all  strange  that 
schools  of  cookery  arose  centuries  ago ;  but  it  is  strange 
that  these  schools  were  not  extended  in  their  scope,  to  in- 
clude others  than  professional  cooks.  They  aimed  merely 
to  provide  skilled  help  for  the  kitchens  of  royalty  and 
Wealth.  This  they  did  to  perfection,  but  the  common  people 
knew  nothing  of  the  methods  whereby  their  plain  fare  might 
be  made  more  toothsome  or  more  beneficial,  It  has  re- 


THE  ART  OF  COOKING.  29 

mained  for  this  later  day,  this  utilitarian  age,  to  establish 
schools  designed  to  furnish  good,  practical  cooks  for  our 
homes,  and  to  develop  them  from  our  wives  and  our 
daughters. 

This  "  cooking-school "  movement  arose  in  England. 
The  working  classes  there  were  so  sadly  unskilled  in 
using  provision,  and  provision  was  so  enormously  costly, 
that  the  question  necessarily  arose,  Is  there  no  way  where- 
by these  masses  can  use  what  little  they  have  to  better  ad- 
vantage ?  How  to  make  the  most  of  what  was  in  their 
kitchens  was  the  practical  problem.  Schools  of  domestic 
economy  then  arose,  under  the  patronage  of  benevolent  per- 
sons, to  promote  the  practical  solution  of  this  difficulty. 

The  managers  of  the  South  Kensington  Museum  of  Arts, 
in  West  London,  made  the  first  organized  movement  in  this 
matter  by  establishing  public  lectures  on  the  preparation  of 
food,  with  platform  demonstrations  of  various  culinary 
operations.  But  the  inadequacy  of  this  course  was  soon  evi- 
dent. Exposition  and  illustration  were  good,  but  practice 
was  needed.  Cookery  is  like  music,  in  that  the  only  way  to 
do  it  well  is  to  do  it  well.  Lectures  on  the  capabilities  of 
the  piano,  though  supplemented  by  brilliant  illustration, 
could  never  make  musicians,  and  the  course  inaugurated  at 
Kensington  Museum  was  not  capable  of  making  cooks. 
Practice  schools  soon  became  an  admitted  necessity. 

To  found  schools  of  this  character  was  no  easy  task. 
Public  sentiment  was  not  up  to  the  need.  Teachers,  text- 
books, and  even  pupils  were  wanting.  It  was  unavoidably 
an  expensive  method  of  education,  and  no  great  names  stood 
ready  to  back  the  movement.  But  the  parties  chiefly  in- 
terested were  determined,  and  they  moved  onward.  The 
first  organized  classes  for  graded  instructions  and  practice 
in  cookery  were  formed  in  1874.  These  classes  were  open 
to  all,  but  especial  encouragement  was  given  to  those  pro- 
posing to  go  out  as  teachers  of  this  art,  In  this  respect  tho 


30  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

work  was  a  great  success,  and  large  numbers  of  cooking* 
schools  have  been  formed  in  England. 

These  schools  employ  a  series  of  printed  "  lessons/' 
suited  for  use  in  all  the  work  in  all  the  various  grades. 
These  lessons  contained  a  list  of  ingredients  needed  for  each 
dish,  with  their  quantity  and  cost.  Then  followed  a  specifi- 
cation of  the  several  steps  to  be  taken,  each  distinct  in  itself 
and  numbered.  Nothing  was  assumed  to  be  known; 
nothing  was  here  taken  for  granted,  all  was  clearly  specified 
and,  if  need  be,  explained.  As  trial  showed  defects  in  the 
several  lessons,  they  were  carefully  revised,  and  at  last  text- 
books were  issued.  Every  pupil  learned  what  to  do  in  each 
case ;  then  they  did  it ;  then  they  kept  on  doing  it  until  they 
could  do  it  to  perfection.  As  at  "  Dotheboys  Hall,"  he  whose 
turn  it  was  to  spell  "  scrub  "  was  set  to  scrub  the  floor,  etc., 
etc.,  so  at  these  practice  schools,  she  who  studied  "  Irish 
stew,"  made  Irish  stew,  and  capped  the  climax  by  eating  it. 

It  is  surprising  that  so  diversified  a  company  gathered  in 
these  schools.  An  observer  of  the  Kensington  Museum 
establishment  says  of  the  attendance  :  "  There  were  cultivated 
ladies,  the  daughters  of  country  gentlemen,  old  house- 
keepers, servants,  cooks,  and  colored  girls  from  South 
Africa,  together  with  a  large  proportion  of  intelligent  young 
women  who  were  preparing  to  become  teachers." 

It  may  strike  one  who  goes  over  these  lessons  that  there 
is  a  wearisome  attention  to  trivial  details*  But  it  should  not 
be  forgotten  that  the  chief  difference  between  good  and  bad 
cookery  lies  just  here*  It  is  a  prime  point  in  cooking- 
schools  to  make  each  item  so  prominent  that  it  cannot  be 
overlooked.  Strict  attention  to  details  is  the  corner-stone 
of  the  culinary  art. 

Schools  of  cookery  are  now  numerous  in  this  country. 
New  York,  Philadelphia,  and  all  the  principal  cities  have 
institutions  of  this  character.  Text-books  are  numerous 
top,  EHza  A,  ypumans,  Juliet  Corson,  and  othwr 


THE  ART  OF  COOKING.  31 

have  nobly  led  the  van  of  culinary  artistes,  and  their  man- 
uals are  standards  for  cooking-schools. 

To  illustrate  the  method  of  the  cooking-schools,  two 
"  lessons "  are  here  added,  both  on  the  making  of  Cabinet 
Pudding.  The  first  is  from  the  American  edition  of  Lessons 
in  Cookery,  the  handbook  of  the  London  school. 

LESSON :— CABINET  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One  dozen  cherries  or  raisins,  and  two  or  three  pieces  of 
angelica.  One  dozen  finger-biscuits  and  half  a  dozen  ratafias.  One  ounce 
of  loaf-sugar  and  fifteen  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla.  Four  eggs.  One 
pint  of  milk. 

Time  required,  about  one  Iwur. 
To  make  a  Cabinet  Pudding: 

1.  Take  a  pint-and-a-half  mold  and  butter  it  inside  with 
your  fingers. 

2.  Take  a  dozen  raisins  or  dried  cherries,  and  two  or  three 
pieces  of  angelica,  and  ornament  the  bottom  of  the  mold  with 
them. 

3.  Take  one  dozen  stale  sponge  finger-biscuits*  and  break 
them  in  pieces. 

4.  Partly  fill  the  mold  with  pieces  of  cake  and  a  half  a 
dozen  ratafias:^ 

5.  Take  four  yelks  and  two  whites  of  eggs  and  put  them 
in  a  basin. 

6.  Add  to  the  eggs  one  ounce  of  white  sugar,  and  whip 
them  together  lightly. 

7.  Stir  in,  by  degrees,  one  pint  of  milk. 

8.  Flavor  it  by  adding  fifteen  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla. 

9.  Pour  this  mixture  over  the  cakes  in  the  mold. 

10.  Place  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  over  the  top  of  the 
mold. 

1 1.  Take  a  saucepan  half  full  of  boiling  water,  and  stand 
it  on  the  side  of  the  fire. 

*  To  be  had  at  the  baker's. 

|  For  sale  at  all  large  grocery -houses. 


32  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

12.  Stand  the  mold  in  the  saucepan,  to  steam  for  from 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour. 

N.  B. — The  water  should  only  reach  half  way  up  the  mold,  or  it  would 
boil  over  and  spoil  the  pudding. 

13.  For  serving,  turn  the  pudding  carefully  out  of  the 
mold  on  to  a  hot  dish." 

The  other  "  lesson "  is  from  Miss  Corson's  Cooking- 
school  Text-book.  It  is  the  method  pursued  in  the  New 
York  Cooking-school  and  its  offshoots. 

LESSON:— CABINET  PUDDING. 

INGREDIENTS. 

j^lb.  candied  cherries,        .....        20  cents. 

2  oz.  citron,  .......4" 

j^lb.  macaroons,         -        -        -    '"" '  -    ^  -        -         15     " 
Sponge  cake,         .-....-10" 

I  pt.  milk, 4     " 

%  °z.  gelatine,      -        -        -        •    X  •        •  3     " 

I  lemon,  2     " 

3  oz.  powdered  sugar,    -....-2" 

Total,        .....        60  cents. 

(i.)  Soak  the  gelatine  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  watei 
until  it  is  soft,  and  then  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan 
with  the  milk,  sugar,  and  the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemon  cut 
very  thin,  and  let  it  heat  thoroughly,  stirring  occasionally 
until  the  gelatine  and  sugar  are  dissolved.  (2.)  Cut  the 
citron  in  thin  slices.  Butter  a  plain  pudding  mold  rather 
thickly  with  cold  butter,  and  ornament  the  bottom  and  sides 
by  placing  some  of  the  fruit  against  them  in  some  pretty 
shape.  (3.)  Place  the  remaining  fruit  and  the  cake  in  the 
mold  in  alternate  layers,  and  then  strain  the  milk  into  the 
mold.  Set  it  where  it  will  cool  and  grow  firm,  which  will 
be  in  four  or  five  hours,  and  then  turn  it  QUt  of  the  mold 
and  serve  it  cold" . 


THE  ART  OF  COOKING.  33 

Every  city  has  its  leading  caterer,  who  illustrates,  when 
opportunity  offers,  to  what  heights  the  gastronomic  art  may 
be  carried.  On  special  occasions  great  "  spreads  "  are  made, 
the  cost  of  which  will  surprise  the  uninitiated.  From  two 
to  five  dollars  per  plate  is  an  ordinary  charge  for  these  en- 
tertainments. Ten  dollars  for  each  guest  is  by  no  means 
unusual.  Twenty-five  dollars  for  each  guest,  the  wines  in- 
cluded, is  a  price  often  charged,  and  Delmonico,  of  New 
York,  furnished  a  dinner  to  ten  persons,  the  cost  of  which 
was  estimated  to  be  no  less  than  four  hundred  dollars  each. 

The  dinner  was  given  by  a  distinguished  yachting-man, 
who  insisted  that  the  five  men  in  waiting  should  be  dressed 
as  sailors.  He  furnished  the  suits,  new  and  elegant.  The 
guests  drank,  or  tasted,  every  vinted  liquor  that  has  ever  been 
brought  to  America — not  that  they  drank  every  brand  of 
wine,  but  every  grade  was  represented.  They  finished  with 
apousse  cafe  made  of  eleven  liquors. 

The  bills  of  fare  were  a  striking  feature  of  the  display. 
Before  each  plate  sat  a  cut-glass  basin,  about  twenty  inches 
in  diameter  and  four  inches  deep.  Each  was  nearly  filled 
with  water,  perfumed  with  ottar  of  roses,  on  the  surface  of 
which  floated  half-open  pond  lilies.  In  the  basin  a  perfect 
model  of  the  yacht  owned  by  the  gentleman  who  gave  the 
dinner  was  placed.  It  was  cut  in  red  cedar  wood,  with 
cabin,  rail,  wheel  for  steering,  brass  work,  such  as  belaying- 
pins,  binnacle,  etc.,  man  ropes  worked  and  trimmed  with 
sailor  knots,  scraped  pine  masts  and  booms,  rigging  of 
silken  cords  colored  as  it  would  be  in  the  prototype,  and 
sails  of  satin. 

The  sails  carried  the  bills  of  fare.     On  the  flying  jib  were 

the  words :  "  Compliments  of ,"  naming  the  giver  of 

the  dinner;  on  the  jib  the  date  and  place;  on  the  foresail 
was  the  name  of  the  guest  who  sat  at  the  place  where  each 
little  vessel  floated ;  and  on  the  mainsail  was  the  menu.  As 
the  guest  had  occasion  to  consult  his  bill  of  fare,  he  used  a 

a 


34  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

little  gold  oar  that  rested  on  the  ringers  of  a  silver  naiad 
who  peered  over  the  containing  glass,  and  held  out  both 
hands  to  grasp  the  oar.  After  the  dinner  each  guest  either 
carried  away  his  bill  of  fare  or  had  it  sent  to  his  home.  The 
bills  of  fare  were  supposed  to  have  cost  at  least  one  hundred 
dollars  apiece.  Of  course,  the  viands  spread  at  such  a  table 
were  the  finest  the  markets  of  the  world  could  afford. 

An  artistic  conclusion  to  an  elaborate  luncheon  in  New 
York  is  thus  described  by  one  who  was  there :  "  The  last 
course  was  quite  classic.  A  Greek  would  have  appreciated  it. 
It  would  have  given  him  visions  of  Hybla  and  Hymettus,  and 
their  luxuriant  growth  of  wild  thyme.  Everything  was 
removed  from  the  table  except  the  ferns  in  the  centre.  A 
glass  jug,  some  small  glasses,  and  a  plate  of  water  crackers 
were  brought  in.  The  hostess  poured  out  for  each  guest  a 
tiny  glass  of  metheglin.  Any  one  who  had  forgotten  the 
old  reputation  of  this  liquor  and  of  what  it  was  made  would 
have  been  enlightened  by  seeing  the  jug.  It  looked  like  a 
honeycomb.  Through  the  wax-looking  cells  painted  upon 
its  surface  the  liquor  appeared  like  yellow  honey.  On  the 
stopper  was  a  black  and  gold  bee.  The  caster,  or  tray,  in 
which  the  jug  stood  was  of  glass  also,  covered  with  white 
clover  and  other  heather  flowers,  which  give  the  delicate 
flavor  to  Scotch  and  French  honey.  Such  a  finale  seems  to 
claim  for  America  mention  among  those  nations  which 
Shakespeare  describes  as  *  exquisite  in  their  drinking.' " 


n.— SOUP  STOCK,  SOUPS,  ETC, 

GENERAL  SUGGESTIONS  ON  SOUP  STOCK  AND  SOUP  MEAT,  HOW 
TO  PREPARE  THEM,  HOW  TO  ENRICH  THEM,  THICKENING  SOUP, 
COLORING  SOUP,  FLAVORING  SOUP,  ETC.  THIRTY-TWO  RECIPES 
FOR  SOUPS  AND  INCIDENTAL  PREPARATIONS. 

THE  first  and  great  essential  to  making  good  soup  is 
stock,  or  good,  fresh  meat.  To  make  stock,  take  the 
liquor  left  after  boiling  fresh  meat,  bones  large  or 
small,  the  large  ones  being  cracked,  that  the  marrow  may 
be  extracted,  trimmings  of  meat,  bones,  and  meat  left  over 
from  a  roast  or  broil,  put  any  or  all  of  these  in  a  large  pot 
or  soup-kettle  with  water  enough  to  cover  them.  Let  th^m 
simmer  slowly  over  a  steady  fire,  keep  the  kettle  covered, 
stir  frequently,  pour  in  now  and  then  a  cup  of  cold  water, 
and  skim  off  the  scum.  If  it  is  fresh  meat  or  bones,  com* 
mence  with  cold  water ;  if  cooked,  with  warm  water.  Bones 
are  as  useful  as  meat  in  making  stock,  as  they  furnish  gela- 
tine. A  quart  of  water  is  usually  enough  for  a  pound  of 
meat.  Six  to  eight  hours  will  make  stock  fit  for  use.  Let 
it  stand  over  night,  then  skim  off  the  fat,  put  the  stock  into 
an  earthen  jar,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Fresh  meat  should  be  freed  from  all  superfluous  skin  and 
fat,  which  make  a  soup  greasy,  rather  than  rich. 

The  glutinous  substance  contained  in  the  bones  renders  it 
important  that  they  should  be  boiled  with  the  meat,  as  they 
add  to  the  strength  and  thickness  of  the  soup.  The  meat, 
however,  should  be  cut  off  the  bone  and  divided  into  small 
pieces.  Place  in  cold  water  over  a  gentle  fire  and  boil  by 
the  long  and  slow  process,  that  the  essence  of  the  meat  may 

35 


36  EVERY   WOMAN"  HER  OWN  COOK. 

be  drawn  out  thoroughly.  When  it  comes  to  the  boiling 
point,  throw  in  a  little  salt  to  assist  the  scum  to  rise ;  then 
skim  carefully  to  prevent  its  becoming  turbid.  When  no 
more  scum  accumulates,  and  the  meat  is  softened  so  as  to 
readily  separate  with  the  use  of  the  fork,  it  should  be 
strained,  the  vegetables  put  it,  the  seasoning  done,  and  the 
necessary  amount  of  hot  water  added  if  too  much  has  boiled 
away. 

All  soup  meats  are  better  boiled  the  day  before  using,  so 
as  to  allow  the  grease  to  chill  over  night,  when  it  can 
readily  be  removed  before  putting  over  the  fire  again. 

The  following  thickening  is  almost  indispensable  to  all 
good  soups :  A  tablespoonful  or  more  of  flour  mixed  to  a 
smooth  paste  with  a  little  water,  and  enriched  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter,  or  good  beef  drippings  well  stirred  in. 
If  it  be  necessary  to  add  water  to  a  soup,  always  use  boil- 
ing water,  as  cold  water  injures  the  flavor.  If  making  a 
rich  soup  that  requires  catsup  or  wine,  let  either  be  added 
just  before  the  soup  is  taken  from  the  fire. 

Soup  may  be  colored  yellow  by  the  use  of  grated  car- 
rots; red  with  the  juice  of  tomatoes  ;  green  with  the  juice 
of  powdered  spinach ;  brown  with  carefully  scorched  flour, 
kept  ready  for  use.  Onions  are  thought  by  many  to  be  a 
necessity  in  all  soups — that  their  flavor  must  lurk  some- 
where, either  defined  or  undefined.  Their  flavor  may  be 
much  improved  if  fried  until  nicely  browned  in  hot  butter 
before  being  added  to  the  soup.  Potatoes  should  never 
be  boiled  with  soup,  because  they  add  nothing  to  its  flavor 
and  are  themselves  injured  by  the  long  cooking.  They 
should  be  boiled  separately,  and  then  added. 

A  most  desirable  quality  in  soup  is  that  no  one  flavor 
predominate  over  the  others,  but,  that  by  a  careful  blending 
of  the  different  ingredients  it  shall  contain  and  harmonize 
all  flavors.  Soups  and  broths  should  always  be  strained.  It 


SOU*  4TOCK,  SOUPS,  ETC.  3? 

makes  them  more  relishable  as  well  as  inviting  to  the  eye. 
A  slight  acid,  like  lemon  or  tomato,  gives  a  peculiar  relish 
to  some  soups,  as  do  many  of  the  palatable  condiments 
prepared  by  such  manufacturers  as  Durkee  &  Co.,  Annear 
&  Co.,  Cross  &  Blackwell,  and  several  others,  for  this 
especial  purpose.  With  such  helps  and  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  stock  on  hand,  a  choice,  rich  soup  of  any  variety 
may  be  gotten  up  in  thirty  minutes. 

RECIPES. 

Beef  Soup. — Boil  a  shin  of  beef,  or  a  piece  off  the  shoulder, 
slowly  and  thoroughly,  the  day  before  desiring  to  use  it ; 
skim  well  the  next  day  and  thin  the  jelly,  if  necessary,  with 
water ;  add  a  little  brandy,  a  grated  carrot,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  butter  rubbed  smooth  in  brown  flour,  a  little  vermi- 
celli, and  spices  to  taste.  Two  or  three  eggs  may  be  boiled 
hard,  mashed  smooth,  and  placed  in  the  tureen  before 
turning  in  the  soup. 

Beef  Soup,  No.  2. — Boil  a  shin  of  beef  of  moderate  size, 
crack  the  bone,  remove  the  tough  outside  skin,  wash,  and 
place  in  a  kettle  to  boil  with  six  or  eight  quarts  of  water. 
Let  it  boil  about  four  hours,  until  it  becomes  perfectly 
tender,  then  take  it  out  of  the  liquid.  Add  salt,  one  pint  of 
tomatoes,  two  onions  cut  in  small  pieces,  two  turnips  cut  in 
quarters,  one  grated  carrot,  one  large  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
a  little  sweet  marjoram  and  thyme  rubbed  fine,  one  red 
pepper  cut  in  very  small  pieces,  also  a  celery  top  or  a  small 
quantity  of  bruised  celery  seed.  This  soup  may  be  thick- 
ened according  to  taste  either  with  vermicelli,  macaroni, 
noodles,  or  drop  dumplings. 

For  an  incidental  side  dish,  take  the  soup  meat  that  has 
been  cut  from  the  bones,  chop  fine  while  warm,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  add  one  teacup  of  soup  saved  out  before 


38  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

putting  in  the  vegetables.     Pack  in  a  dish,  and  slice  down 
for  tea  or  lunch  when  cold. 

Beef  Sonp  with  Okra. — Cut  a  round  steak  in  small  pieces 
and  fry  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  together  with  one 
sliced  onion,  until  very  brown ;  put  into  a  soup  kettle  with 
four  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  boil  slowly  an  hour ;  add 
salt,  pepper,  and  one  pint  of  sliced  okra,  and  simmer  three 
and  one-half  hours  longer.  Strain  before  serving. 

Corned  Beef  Soup. — When  the  liquor  in  which  corned  beef 
and  vegetables  have  been  boiled  is  cold,  remove  all  the 
grease  that  has  risen  and  hardened  on  the  top,  and  add 
tomatoes  and  tomato  catsup  and  boil  half  an  hour — thus 
making  an  excellent  tomato  soup  ;  or  add  to  it  rice,  or  sago, 
or  pearl  barley,  or  turn  it  into  a  vegetable  soup  by  boiling  in 
the  liquor  any  vegetables  that  are  fancied.  Several  varieties 
of  soups  may  have  this  stock  for  a  basis  and  be  agreeable 
to  the  taste. 

Ox-tail  Soup. — Chop  the  ox-tail  into  small  pieces ;  set  on 
the  fire  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  stir  until  brown, 
and  then  pour  off  the  fat;  add  broth  to  taste,  and  boil  gently 
until  the  pieces  of  tail  are  well  cooked.  Season  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  three  or  four  tomatoes ;  boil  fifteen  minutes  and 
then  serve.  This  soup  can  be  made  with  water,  instead  of 
the  stock  broth,  in  which  case  season  with  carrot,  onion, 
turnip,  and  parsley. 

Mutton  Broth.— After  the  steaks  have  been  cut  from  the 
leg,  the  lower  part  is  just  adapted  for  a  soup.  The  neck- 
piece is  also  very  nice.  Boil  the  meat  very  gently  in  cold 
water,  adding  a  turnip,  a  carrot,  and  a  spoonful  of  rice.  All 
the  fat  should  be  removed.  Toward  the  last,  add  a  little 
minced  parsley.  Dumplings  are  an  excellent  addition. 

Vegetable  Soup. — Take  two  pounds  of  shin  of  beef  and  two 
pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal ;  remove  all  the  fat  and  break 


SOUP  STOCK,  SOUPS,  ETC.  §§ 

the  bones  and  take  out  the  marrow ;  put  into  a  pot  with  five 
pints  of  water ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  then  cover  and 
let  it  come  to  a  boil  quickly ;  remove  the  scum  that  rises, 
and  set  where  it  will  simmer  for  five  hours ;  one  hour  before 
serving,  add  two  young  carrots,  scraped  and  cut  in  slices, 
half  a  head  of  celery,  and  a  small  onion  cut  into  squares ;  in 
half  an  hour  add  one  turnip  sliced,  and  in  fifteen  minutes 
one  cauliflower  broken  in  small  pieces. 

Bean  Soup. — Soak  one  and  a  half  pints  of  beans  in  cold 
water  over  night.  In  the  morning  drain  off  the  water,  wash 
the  beans  in  fresh  water,  and  put  into  soup-kettle  with  four 
quarts  of  good  beef  stock,  from  which  all  the  fat  has  been 
removed.  Set  it  where  it  will  boil  slowly  but  steadily  for 
three  hours  at  the  least.  Two  hours  before  it  is  needed  for 
use,  slice  in  an  onion  and  a  carrot.  Some  think  it  im- 
proved by  adding  a  little  tomato.  If  the  beans  are  not  liked 
whole,  strain  through  a  colander  and  send  to  the  table  hot. 

Black  Bean  Soup. — Three  pounds  soup  bone,  one  quart 
black  beans,  soaked  over  night  and  drained ;  one  onion, 
chopped  fine ;  juice  of  one  lemon.  Pepper,  salt,  and  Durkee's 
Challenge  Sauce  to  taste.  Boil  the  soup  bone,  beans,  and 
onions  together  six  hours ;  strain,  and  add  seasoning.  Slice 
lemon  and  put  on  top  when  served. 

Tomato  Soup. — Take  a  knuckle  of  veal,  a  bony  piece  of 
beef,  a  neck  of  mutton,  or  almost  any  piece  of  meat  you 
may  happen  to  have ;  set  it  over  the  fire  in  a  small  quantity 
of  water,  cover  it  closely,  and  boil  very  gently,  to  extract 
the  juices  of  the  meat.  When  nearly  done,  add  a  quantity 
of  peeled  tomatoes,  and  stew  till  the  tomatoes  are  done ;  add 
salt  and  pepper  to  your  taste.  This  is  a  very  cheap,  healthful, 
and  easily  made  soup. 

Tomato  Soup,  No.  2. — Take  one  quart  of  tomatoes.  When 
boiling,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  pulverized  soda 


40  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

crackers,  one  pint  of  hot  water,  one  pint  of  milk,  salt,  and 
pepper ;  strain  through  a  colander  and  serve  hot. 

Green  Pea  Soup. — Boil  the  empty  pods  of  a  half-peck  of 
green  peas  in  one  gallon  of  water  one  hour ;  strain  them 
out ;  add  four  pounds  of  beef  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  boil 
slowly  for  an  hour  and  a  half  longer.  Half  an  hour  before 
serving  add  the  shelled  peas,  and  twenty  minutes  later  half 
a  cup  of  rice  flour,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley. 
After  adding  the  rice  flour  stir  frequently  so  as  to  pre- 
vent scorching. 

Dried  Split  Pea  Soup. — One  gallon  of  water,  one  quart  of 
soaked  split  peas,  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  one  pound  of 
beef.  Put  over  the  fire,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper, 
celery  salt,  salpicant,  curry  powder,  marjoram,  or  savory; 
let  it  boil  slowly  for  two  hours,  or  until  the  quantity  of 
liquor  does  not  exceed  two  quarts.  Pour  into  a  colander 
and  press  the  peas  through  with  a  spoon.  Fry  two  or  three 
slices  of  stale  bread  in  butter  till  brown,  scatter  them  in  the 
soup  after  it  is  placed  in  the  tureen. 

Corn  Soup. — Cut  the  corn  from  the  cob,  and  to  a  pint  of 
corn  allow  one  quart  of  hot  water ;  boil  an  hour  and  press 
through  a  colander;  put  into  a  saucepan  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  being  careful  to  stir  well  to 
prevent  it  being  lumpy,  then  add  the  corn  pulp,  a  little 
cayenne  pepper,  salt,  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  and  half  a  pint 
of  cream. 

Onion  Soup. — Slice  ten  medium-sized  onions  and  fry  brown 
in  butter  with  a  tablespoonful  and  a  half  of  flour  ;  put  into  a 
saucepan,  and  stir  in  slowly  four  or  five  pints  of  milk  and 
water  (about  one-third  water) ;  season  to  taste,  and  add  a 
teacupful  of  grated  potato ;  set  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
and  cook  ten  minutes ;  add  a  cup  of  sweet  cream  and  serve 
quickly. 


SOUP  STOCK,  SOUPS,  ETC.  41 

Mock-turtle  Soup. — Scald  a  calf's  head  and  wash  it  clean ; 
boil  it  in  a  large  pot  of  water  for  half  an  hour,  cut  all  the 
skin  off,  and  take  the  tongue  out.  Take  the  broth  made  of 
a  knuckle  of  veal,  put  in  the  tongue  and  skin,  with  one 
onion,  half-ounce  of  cloves,  half-ounce  of  mace,  half  a  nut- 
meg, all  kinds  of  sweet  herbs  chopped  fine,  and  three 
anchovies.  Stew  till  tender ;  then  take  out  the  meat,  and 
cut  it  in  pieces  two  inches  square ;  cut  the  tongue, previously 
skinned,  in  slices ;  strain  the  liquor  through  a  sieve ;  melt 
half  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan ;  put  in  it  half  a  pound 
of  flour  and  stir  it  till  smooth — if  at  all  lumpy,  strain  it;  add 
the  liquor,  stirring  it  all  the  time ;  then  put  to  the  meat  the 
juice  of  two  lemons,  or  one  bottle  of  Madeira  wine,  if  pre- 
ferred ;  season  rather  highly  with  pepper,  salt,  and  cayenne 
pepper ;  put  in  a  few  meat  balls  and  eight  eggs  boiled  hard. 
Stew  gently  one  hour,  and  serve  in  a  tureen ;  if  too  thick, 
add  more  liquor  before  stewing  the  last  time. 

Mock-turtle  Soup?  No.  2. — Take  a  calf's  head  and  about 
two  pounds  of  delicate  fat  pork.  Put  both  into  a  soup- 
kettle,  with  two  onions,  sweet  herbs,  celery,  pepper,  and 
mace.  Fill  the  kettle  with  water,  and  boil  very  gently  till 
the  meat  is  tender.  Take  out  the  head  and  the  pork,  return 
the  bones  of  the  head  into  the  soup ;  let  it  stew  several 
hours  longer ;  and,  when  cold,  take  off  the  fat,  strain  the 
soup,  and  thicken;  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  half  a  pint 
of  white  wine.  Cut  up  the  head  and  pork  into  pieces  ;  warm 
them  up  in  the  soup,  adding  some  choice  meat  balls  made 
from  finely  minced,  savory  meat.  The  pork  will  be  found 
quite  an  addition  to  the  soup  and  a  substitute  for  the  fat  of 
the  turtle. 

Gumbo  Soup. — Cut  up  two  chickens,  two  slices  of  ham,  and 
two  onions  into  dice ;  flour  them,  and  fry  the  whole  to  a 
light  brown ;  then  fill  the  frying-pan  with  boiling  water,  stir 


42  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

it  a  few  minutes,  and  turn  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  con- 
taining three  quarts  of  boiling  water ;  let  it  boil  forty  min- 
utes, removing  the  scum.  In  the  meantime  soak  three  pods 
of  okra  in  cold  water  twenty  minutes ;  cut  them  into  thin 
slices,  and  add  to  the  other  ingredients ;  let  it  boil  one  hour 
and  a  half.  Add  a  quart  of  canned  tomatoes  and  a  cupful 
of  boiled  rice  half  an  hour  before  serving. 

Southern  Gumbo  Soup. — Cut  up  one  chicken,  and  fry  it  to 
a  light  brown,  also  two  slices  of  bacon  ;  pour  on  them  three 
quarts  of  boiling  water ;  add  one  onion  and  some  sweet 
herbs  tied  in  a  bag ;  simmer  them  gently  three  hours  and  a 
half;  strain  off  the  liquor,  take  off  the  fat,  and  then  put  the 
ham  and  chicken  (cut  into  small  pieces)  into  the  liquor; 
add  half  a  teacup  of  sliced  okra,  also  half  a  teacup  of  boiled 
rice.  Boil  all  half  an  hour,  and  just  before  serving  add  a 
glass  of  wine  and  a  dozen  oysters  with  their  juice. 

Julienne  Soup. — Scrape  two  carrots  and  two  turnips,  and 
cut  in  pieces  an  inch  long ;  cut  slices  lengthwise  about  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  then  cut  again,  so  as  to  make 
square  strips ;  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  with  two  ounces  of 
butter,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cabbage  chopped  fine,  and 
half  an  onion  chopped ;  set  on  the  fire  and  stir  until  half 
fried ;  add  broth  as  you  wish  to  make  thick  or  thin ;  boil 
until  done ;  salt  to  taste ;  skim  off  the  fat,  and  serve ;  it 
takes  about  two  hours  to  prepare  this  soup  properly.  It 
can  be  served  with  rice  or  barley. 

Macaroni  or  Vermicelli  Soup. — Two  small  carrots,  four 
onions,  two  turnips,  two  cloves,  one  tablespoonful  salt,  pep- 
per to  taste.  Herbs — marjoram,  parsley,  and  thyme.  Put 
any  cooked  or  uncooked  meat  and  its  bones  in  enough  water 
to  cover  them;  when  they  boil,  skim  them  and  add  the 
vegetables.  Simmer  three  or  four  hours,  then  strain 
through  a  colander  and  put  back  in  the  saucepan  to  reheat 


SOUP  STOCK,   SOUPS,  ETC.  43 

Boil  one-half  pound  macaroni  until  quite  tender,  and  place 
in  the  soup  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  over  it — the  last 
thing.  Vermicelli  will  need  to  be  soaked  a  short  time  only — 
not  to  be  boiled. 

White  Soup. — Boil  a  knuckle  of  veal  for  three  hours.  Add 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni,  and  when  done,  a  pint  of 
cream.  Season  with  lemon-peel  and  mace. 

Turkey  Soup. — Take  the  turkey  bones  and  boil  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  in  water  enough  to  cover  them ;  add  a 
little  summer  savory  and  celery  chopped  fine.  Just  before 
serving,  thicken  with  a  little  browned  flour,  and  season 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter. 

Chicken  Soup. — To  the  broth  in  which  chickens  have  been 
boiled  for  salad,  etc.,  add  one  onion  and  eight  or  ten 
tomatoes ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt ;  add  Challenge  Sauce 
or  Salpicant,  if  desired ;  boil  thirty  minutes ;  add  two  well* 
beaten  eggs  just  before  sending  to  the  table. 

Lobster  Soup. — To  boil  a  lobster,  put  it  in  a  fish-kettle  and 
cover  it  with  cold  water,  cooking  it  on  a  quick  fire.  Remove 
the  small  bladder  found  near  the  head,  and  take  out  a  small 
vein  found  immediately  under  the  shell  all  along  the  back 
of  the  lobster,  and  use  the  rest.  Two  lobsters  will  make 
soup  for  six  or  eight  persons,  and  salad  also.  All  the  under 
shell  and  small  claws  are  pounded  in  a  mortar  to  make  the 
soup ;  when  pounded,  put  it  into  a  pan  and  set  it  on  the  fire 
with  broth  or  water.  The  meat  is  cut  in  small  pieces,  to 
be  added  afterward.  The  soup  is  left  on  the  fire  to  boil 
gently  for  half  an  hour ;  then  put  it  in  a  sieve  and  press  it 
with  a  masher  to  extract  the  juice.  To  make  it  thicker,  a 
small  piece  of  parsnip  can  be  added  and  mashed  with  the 
rest  into  a  pan,  so  that  all  the  essence  is  extracted  in  that  way 
from  the  lobster.  When  you  have  strained  it  put  a  little 


44  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

butter  with  it  and  add  as  much  broth  as  is  required ;  put 
some  of  the  meat  in  the  tureen  and  pour  the  soup  over  it. 

Clam  Soup. — Wash  the  clams  free  from  grit;  boil  them  in 
a  pint  of  water  till  they  will  come  from  the  shells  easily. 
Take  a  small  quantity  of  the  liquor,  add  some  milk,  thicken 
it  with  a  little  flour,  and  add  the  clams.  Split  crackers  are 
veiy  nice  added. 

Portable  Soup. — Boil  a  knuckle  of  veal,  also  the  feet,  a 
shin  of  beef,  a  cowheel  or  any  other  bones  of  meat  which 
will  produce  a  stiff  jelly,  in  a  large  kettle,  with  as  much 
water  as  will  cover  them.  Let  it  stand  a  long  time  over  the 
fire  before  it  boils.  Skim  it  most  thoroughly,  until  the 
broth  appears  entirely  clear.  Then  fill  up  the  kettle  with 
hot  water,  and  boil  it  eight  hours,  or  until  it  has  evaporated 
so  as  to  be  somewhat  thick.  Run  it  through  a  hair  sieve, 
set  it  in  a  cool  place  where  it  will  harden  very  quickly.  Skim 
off  every  particle  of  fat,  and  return  it  to  a  saucepan ;  skim 
and  stir  continually,  so  that  it  may  not  scorch,  and  all  the 
previous  labor  be  lost,  until  it  becomes  a  very  thick  syrup. 
As  soon  as  it  can  be  no  longer  done  in  this  way,  transfer  it 
to  a  deep  jar,  and  set  into  a  kettle  of  water,  hot,  but  not 
boiling,  until  it  jellies  very  thick.  This  will  keep  good 
many  months,  if  packed  dry  in  tin  canisters.  This  is  the  con- 
centrated essence  of  soup,  and  is  a  most  convenient  article 
of  use,  either  at  home  in  an  emergency  or  in  traveling,  and 
especially  at  sea.  To  make  a  pint  of  soup,  cut  off  a  piece 
as  large  as  a  walnut,  dissolve  it  in  the  boiling  water,  and  it 
is  ready  for  use. 

Fluid  Bee£ — Among  the  advanced  preparations  of  the  day 
meat  extracts  are  taking  a  high  place.  One  of  the  finest  of 
these  preparations  is  "  Johnston's  Fluid  Beef."  It  contains 
all  the  nutritive  constituents  of  the  beef,  and  is  readily 
available  for  soups,  sandwiches,  beef  tea,  etc.  For  medi-. 
cal  uses,  traveling,  picnics,  etc,,  it  is  very  convenient.  To 


SOUP  STOCK,  SOUPS,  ETC.  4$ 

use  for  soups  and  beef  tea,  add  a  teaspoonful  to  a  cup  of 
boiling  water  and  season  to  taste ;  or  as  a  sandwich  paste, 
it  may  be  used  on  toast,  with  or  without  butter.  Put  up 
in  cans  of  various  sizes,  from  two  ounces  to  one  pound, 
which  can  be  left  open  without  injury  to  contents. 

RECIPES    INCIDENTAL   TO    SOUPS. 

Meat  Balls  for  Soup. — Take  fresh  cooked  meat  or  fowl  and 
chop  fine ;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  herbs,  and  a  little 
lemon ;  mix  together  with  an  egg ;  roll  in  bread-crumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  lard. 

Browned  Flour  for  Soups. — Dredge  the  bottom  of  a  spider 
well  with  flour,  and  shake  it  over  hot  coals,  letting  it  brown 
gradually,  but  not  burn.  Keep  it  in  a  dry  place,  in  a  tin 
canister,  without  wholly  closing  the  lid.  It  is  very  con- 
venient to  have  it  already  prepared,  although  when  used  fresh 
it  is  much  nicer. 

Home-made  Noodles—a  substitute  for  Vermicelli — Wet  with 
the  yelks  of  four  eggs  as  much  fine,  dry,  sifted  flour  as  will 
make  them  into  a  firm  but  very  smooth  paste.  Roll  it  out 
as  thin  as  possible,  and  cut  it  into  bands  of  about  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  in  width.  Dust  them  lightly  with  flour,  and 
place  four  of  them  one  upon  the  other.  Cut  them  in  the 
finest  possible  strips,  separate  them  with  the  point  of  a 
knife,  and  spread  them  on  the  pie-board  so  that  they  may 
dry  a  little  before  they  are  used.  Drop  them  gradually  into 
the  boiling  soup,  and  in  five  minutes  they  will  be  done. 

Drop  Dumplings. — Take  prepared  flour,  add  a  little  beef 
drippings  or  lard,  well  rubbed  through,  and  moisten  to  a  soft 
dough.  With  floured  hands  pinch  off  very  small  pieces  and 
form  into  balls  by  rolling  in  the  palm  of  the  hand.  In  boil- 
ing dumplings  of  any  kind,  put  them  in  the  water  one  at  a 
time.  If  they  are  put  in  together  they  will  blend  with  each 
other. 


III.— FISH,  OYSTERS,  ETC. 

HINTS  CONCERNING  FISH — TESTS   OF   FRESHNESS,  HOW  TO 

HOW  TO  DRESS,  HOW  TO  BOIL  FISH,  HOW  TO  BAKE  FISH, 
HOW  TO  BROIL  FISH,  HOW  TO  FRY  FISH,  ETC.  FIFTY-THREE 
RECIPES  FOR  COOKING  FISH,  OYSTERS,  ETC.,  AND  FOR  INCI- 
DENTAL PREPARATIONS. 

FISH  should  be  eaten  as  soon  as  possible  after  being 
taken  from  the  water.  In  every  kind  of  fish,  the 
brightness  of  the  eyes,  redness  of  the  gills,  firmness 
of  the  flesh,  and  stiffness  of  the  fins  are  indications  of  fresh- 
ness. Fish  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  as  soon  as  prac- 
ticable. Great  care  should  be  taken  to  remove  every  atom 
of  blood,  to  rinse  carefully,  and  not  to  soak  them  longer 
than  necessary.  Fish  are  dressed  in  a  variety  of  ways  to 
suit  different  tastes — boiled,  baked,  broiled,  and  fried.  The 
most  ordinary  methods  are  broiling  or  frying.  In  boiling, 
large  fish  should  be  wrapped  in  a  cloth  previously  floured 
to  prevent  sticking,  tied  with  a  string,  and  covered  with 
from  two  to  three  inches  of  cold  water  already  salted ;  from 
six  to  ten  minutes  per  pound  will  generally  be  found  suf- 
ficient for  boiling.  Remove  from  the  fire  the  moment  it  is 
done,  and  place  upon  a  sieve  to  drain. 

In  baking  fish,  cleanse  and  wipe  dry ;  fill  to  taste ;  sew  to- 
gether ;  place  in  a  dripping-pan ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper ; 
add  sufficient  water  to  baste  with,  or  if  a  filling  of  oysters 
is  used,  baste  with  the  liquor  off  them.  The  space  between 
the  fish  and  the  sides  of  the  pan  may  be  filled  with  slices  of 
raw  potatoes  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  serve  fish 
and  potatoes  together,  A  large  fish  will  bake  in  an  hour. 

46 


PISH,  OYSTERS,  ETC.  47 

For  broiling,  thoroughly  cleanse  and  dry ;  split  open  so 
that  the  backbone  will  be  flat  in  the  middle ;  season  with  salt 
And  pepper,  and  place  on  a  buttered  gridiron  over  a  clear 
fire  with  the  inside  downward  until  it  begins  to  brown,  then 
turn  over.  When  done,  serve  on  a  hot  dish  and  butter  lib- 
erally. 

Fish  may  be  very  nicely  fried  in  hot  lard  with  only  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  little  flour  dredged 
over  it,  or  it  may  be  spread  with  beaten  eggs  and  rolled  in 
cracker  or  bread  crumbs  before  frying.  Challenge  sauce, 
Worcestershire  sauce,  and  similar  condiments  upon  fish  will 
be  found  to  give  a  most  delicate  and  piquant  flavoring. 


RECIPES. 

Broiled  Shad. — Scrape,  split,  wash,  and  dry  the  shad  on  a 
cloth;  season  with  pepper  and  salt;  grease  the  gridiron 
well ;  as  soon  as  it  is  hot  lay  the  shad  on  to  broil  with  the 
inside  downward.  One  side  being  well  browned,  turn  it. 
It  should  broil  a  quarter  of  an  hour  or  more,  according  to 
thickness.  Butter  well  and  send  to  table  hot. 

Baked  Shad. — Many  people  are  of  the  opinion  that  the 
very  best  method  of  cooking  a  shad  is  to  bake  it.  Stuff  it 
with  bread-crumbs,  salt,  pepper,  butter,  and  parsley,  and 
mix  this  up  with  beaten  yelk  of  egg ;  fill  the  fish  with  it, 
and  sew  it  up  or  fasten  a  string  around  it.  Pour  over  it  a 
little  water  and  some  butter,  and  bake  as  you  would  a  fowl. 
A  shad  will  require  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter 
to  bake. 

Halibut  Cutlets. — Cut  your  halibut  steaks  an  inch  thick, 
wipe  them  with  a  dry  cloth,  and  season  with  saJt  and  cay- 
enne pepper.  Have  ready  a  pan  of  yelk  of  eggs  well 
beaten  and  a  dish  of  grated  bread-crumbs.  Put  «ornp  fresh 


48  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

lard  or  beef  drippings  in  a  frying-pan  and  hold  it  over  thi 
fire  till  it  boils.  Dip  your  cutlets  in  the  egg,  and  then  in 
the  bread-crumbs.  Fry  a  light  brown;  serve  up  hot. 
Salmon  or  any  large  fish  may  be  fried  in  the  same  manner. 

Baked  Cod  or  Halibut — Use  a  piece  of  fish  from  the  middle 
of  the  back,  weighing  four,  five,  or  six  pounds.  Lay  the  fish 
in  very  cold  salt-and-water  for  two  hours ;  wipe  dry ;  make 
deep  gashes  in  both  sides  at  right  angles  with  the  back- 
bone, and  rub  into  these,  as  well  as  coat  it  all  over  with,  a 
force-meat  made  of  the  crumbs,  pork,  herbs,  onion,  and 
seasoning,  made  to  adhere  by  raw  egg.  Lay  in  the  baking- 
pan  and  pour  over  it  the  drawn  butter  (which  should  be  quite 
thin),  season  with  the  anchovy  sauce,  lemon  juice,  pepper, 
and  a  pinch  of  parsley.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  nearly  an 
hour — or  even  more  if  the  piece  be  large — basting  frequently 
lest  it  should  brown  too  fast.  Add  a  little  butter-and-water 
when  the  sauce  thickens  too  much.  When  the  fish  is  done, 
remove  to  a  hot  dish,  and  strain  the  gravy  over  it.  A  few 
capers  or  chopped  green  pickles  are  a  pleasant  addition  to 
the  gravy. 

Boiled  Halibut. — Take  a  small  halibut,  or  what  you  require 
from  a  large  fish.  Put  it  into  the  fish-kettle,  with  the  back 
of  the  fish  undermost ;  cover  it  with  cold  water,  in  which  a 
handful  of  salt  and  a  bit  of  saltpetre  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut 
have  been  dissolved.  When  it  begins  to  boil  skim  it  care- 
fully, and  then  let  it  just  simmer  till  it  is  done.  Four  pounds 
of  fish  will  require  half  an  hour  nearly  to  boil  it.  Drain  it, 
garnish  with  horse-radish  or  parsley.  Egg  sauce,  or  plain 
melted  butter,  are  served  with  it. 

Boiled  Rockfish. — After  the  fish  has  been  nicely  cleaned, 
put  it  into  a  pot  with  water  enough  to  cover  it,  and  throw 
in  salt  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  teaspoonful  to  a  pound  of 
fish.  Boil  it  slowly  until  the  meat  is  tender  and  easily  sep- 


OYSTERS,  ETC.  4ft 

Arates  from  the  bones.  A  large  fish  will  require  an  hour  to 
cook.  When  done,  serve  on  a  hot  dish,  and  have  a  few 
hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  in  thin  slices,  laid  around  it  and  over 
it.  Eat  with  egg-sauce. 

WMte  Fisk — This  fish  may  be  broiled,  fried,  or  baked. 
To  bake  it,  prepare  a  stuffing  of  fine  bread-crumbs,  a  little 
salt  pork  chopped  very  fine  ;  season  with  sage,  parsley,  pep- 
per, and  salt.  Fill  the  fish  with  the  stuffing,  sew  it  up, 
sprinkle  the  outside  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  and  bake. 
In  frying  white  fish,  pour  off  the  fat  as  it  accumulates,  as  it 
is  apt  to  be  too  fat  when  served. 

Broiled  Salmon. — The  steaks  from  the  centre  of  the  fish 
are  best.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  spread  on  a  little 
butter,  and  broil  over  a  clear  but  slow  fire. 

Smoked  Salmon,  Broiled.— Take  a  half  pound  of  smoked 
salmon  and  parboil  it  ten  minutes ;  lay  in  cold  water  for  the 
same  length  of  time ;  wipe  dry  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire. 
Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  while  hot ;  season  with 
cayenne  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  pile  in  a  "log- 
cabin  "  square  upon  a  hot  plate,  and  serve  with  dry  toast. 

Boiled  Salmon. — A  piece  weighing  six  pounds  should  be 
rubbed  with  salt,  tied  carefully  in  a  cloth,  and  boiled  slowly 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  It  should  be  eaten  with  egg  or 
caper  sauce.  If  any  remain  after  dinner,  it  may  be  placed 
in  a  deep  dish,  a  little  salt  sprinkled  over,  and  a  teacupful  of 
boiling  vinegar  poured  upon  it.  Cover  it  closely,  and  it  will 
make  a  nice  breakfast  dish. 

Baked  Salmon  with  Cream  Sance. — Butter  a  sheet  of  fools* 
cap  paper  on  both  sides,  and  wrap  the  fish  up  in  it,  pinning 
the  ends  securely  together.  Lay  in  the  baking-pan,  and 
pour  six  or  seven  spoonfuls  of  butter-and-water  over  it. 
Turn  another  pan  over  all,  and  steam  in  a  moderate  oven 
4 


50  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

from  three-quarters  of  an  nour  to  an  hour,  lifting  the  cover, 
from  time  to  time,  to  baste  and  assure  yourself  that  the 
paper  is  not  burning.  Meanwhile,  have  ready  in  a  sauce- 
pan a  cup  of  cream,  in  which  you  would  do  well  to  dis- 
solve a  bit  of  soda  a  little  larger  than  a  pea.  This  is  a  wise 
precaution  whenever  cream  is  to  be  boiled.  Heat  this  in  a 
vessel  placed  within  another  of  hot  water ;  thicken  with  a 
heaping  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a  liberal  pinch  of  minced 
parsley,  and  when  the  fish  is  unwrapped  and  dished,  pour 
half  the  dressing  slowly  over  it,  sending  the  rest  to  table 
in  a  boat.  If  you  have  no  cream,  use  milk,  and  add  a  beaten 
egg  to  the  thickening. 

Salmon  Steaks  or  Cutlets  Pried. — Cu':  slices  from  the  middle 
of  the  fish  one  inch  thick ;  wipe  dry,  and  salt  slightly ;  dip 
Jin  egg,  then  in  cracker  crumbs ;  fry  very  quickly  in  hot 
butter ;  drain  off  every  drop  of  grease,  and  serve  upon  a  hot 
dish.  Sprinkle  green  parsley  in  bunches  over  it.  The 
French  use  the  best  salad-oil  in  this  recipe  instead  of  butter. 

Pickled  Salmon. — Soak  salt  salmon  twenty-four  hours, 
changing  the  water  frequently ;  afterward  pour  boiling  water 
around  it,  a&d  let  it  stand  fifteen  minutes ;  drain  off  and 
then  pour  on  boiling  vinegar  with  cloves  and  mace  added. 

Pried  Perch. — Scale  and  clean  them  perfectly ;  dry  them 
well,  flour  and  fry  them  in  boiling  lard.  Serve  plenty  of 
fried  parsley  round  them. 

Pried  Tront — Wash,  drain,  and  split ;  roll  in  flour,  season 
with  salt ;  have  some  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  in  a  pan,  and 
when  very  hot  put  in  the  fish  and  fry  to  a  nice  brown. 

Stewed  Tront — Clean  and  wash  the  fish  with  care,  and 
wipe  it  perfectly  dry ;  put  into  a  stewpan  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  dredge  in  as  it  melts  a  little  flour,  grate  half  a 


FISH,  OYSTERS,  ETC.  51 

nutmeg,  a  few  blades  of  mace,  a  little  cayenne,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt ;  mix  it  all  together ;  then  lay  in  the  fish,  let 
it  brown  slightly;  pour  over  some  veal  gravy,  a  lemon 
thinly  sliced ;  stew  very  slowly  for  forty  minutes ;  take  out 
the  fish,  and  add  two  glasses  of  wine  to  the  gravy.  Lay 
the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  over  it  some  of  the  gravy. 
Serve  the  rest  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

Pried  Catfish. — Catfish  must  be  cooked  quite  fresh — if  pos< 
sible,  directly  out  of  the  water.  The  larger  ones  are  gener- 
ally coarse  and  strong ;  the  small-sized  fish  are  the  best. 
Wash  and  clean  them,  cut  off  their  heads  and  tails,  remove 
the  upper  part  of  the  backbone  near  the  shoulders,  and 
score  them  along  the  back  with  deep  gashes  or  incisions, 
Dredge  them  with  flour,  and  fry  them  in  plenty  of  lard, 
boiling  fast  when  the  catfish  are  put  into  the  pan.  Or  you 
may  fry  them  in  the  drippings  or  gravy  saved  from  roast 
beef  or  veal.  They  are  very  nice  dipped  in  a  batter  of 
beaten  egg  and  grated  bread-crumbs,  or  they  may  be  done 
plain,  though  not  in  so  nice  a  way,  with  Indian  meal  instead 
of  bread-crumbs.  Drain  orT  the  lard  before  you  dish  them. 
Touch  each  incision  or  cut  very  slightly  with  a  little  cay- 
enne before  they  go  to  table. 

Pried  Eels. — After  skinning,  emptying,  and  washing  them 
as  clean  as  possible,  cut  them  into  short  pieces,  and  dry 
them  well  with  a  soft  cloth.  Season  them  with  fine  salt 
and  cayenne,  flour  them  thickly,  and  fry  them  in  boiling 
lard  ;  when  nicely  browned,  drain  and  dry  them,  and  send 
to  the  table  with  plain  melted  butter  and  a  lemon,  or  with 
fish-sauce.  Eels  are  sometimes  dipped  into  batter  and  then 
fried,  or  into  egg  and  dried  bread-crumbs,  and  served  with 
plenty  of  crisped  parsley 

Fish  Chowder. — Take  a  fresh  haddock,  of  three  or  four 
pounds,  clean  it  well,  and  cut  in  pieces  of  three  inches 


52  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

square.  Place  in  the  bottom  of  your  dinner-pot  five  or  six 
slices  of  salt  pork,  fry  brown,  then  add  three  onions  sliced 
thin,  and  fry  those  brown.  Remove  the  kettle  from  the  fire, 
and  place  on  the  onions  and  pork  a  layer  of  fish.  Sprinkle 
over  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  then  a  layer  of  pared  and  sliced 
potatoes,  a  layer  of  fish  and  potatoes,  till  the  fish  is  used  up. 
Cover  with  water,  and  let  it  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Pound 
six  biscuits  or  crackers  fine  as  meal,  and  pour  into  the  pot ; 
and,  lastly,  add  a  pint  of  milk ;  let  it  scald  well,  and  serve. 

New  England  Chowder.— Take  a  good  haddock,  cod,  or  any 
other  solid  fish,  cut  it  in  pieces  three  inches  square ;  put  a 
pound  of  fat,  salt  pork,  cut  into  strips,  into  the  pot ;  set  it 
on  hot  coals  and  fry  out  the  grease ;  take  out  the  pork,  but 
leave  the  grease  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  and  put  in  a  layer 
of  fish,  over  that  a  layer  of  sliced  onions,  over  that  a  layer 
of  fish,  with  slips  of  the  fried  pork,  then  another  layer  of 
onions  and  a  few  sliced  raw  potatoes,  and  so  on  alternately 
until  your  fish  is  all  in ;  mix  some  flour  with  as  much  water 
as  will  fill  the  pot ;  season  to  suit  your  taste,  and  boil  for 
half  an  hour ;  have  ready  some  pilot  bread,  soaked  in  water, 
and  throw  them  into  your  chowder  five  minutes  before  tak- 
ing off;  serve  in  a  tureen. 

Fish-balls. — Two  cupfuls  cold  boiled  codfish,  fresh  or 
salted.  Chop  the  fish  when  you  have  freed  it  of  bones  and 
skin ;  work  in  one  cupful  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  moisten 
with  a  half  cup  of  drawn  butter  with  an  egg  beaten  in.  Sea- 
son to  taste.  Have  them  soft  enough  to  mold,  yet  firm 
enough  to  keep  in  shape.  Roll  the  balls  in  flour,  and  fry 
quickly  to  a  golden-brown  in  lard  or  clean  dripping.  Take 
from  the  fat  so  soon  as  they  are  done ;  lay  in  a  colander  or 
sieve  and  shake  gently,  to  free  them  from  every  drop  of 
grease.  Turn  out  for  moment  on  white  paper  to  absorb  any 
lingering  drops,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish. 


FJfSff.  0*ST£KS,  MTC.  6$ 

Stewed  Oysters. — Take  one  quart  of  oysters ;  put  the  liqtior 
(a  teacupful  for  three  persons)  in  a  stewpan,  and  add  half  as 
much  more  water,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  let  it  boil, 
Have  your  oysters  ready  in  a  bowl,  and  the  moment  the 
Aiquor  boils,  pour  in  all  your  oysters,  say  ten  for  each  per- 
json,  or  six  will  do.  Now,  watch  carefully,  and  as  soon  as 
it  begins  to  boil  take  out  your  watch,  count  just  thirty 
seconds,  and  take  your  oysters  from  the  stove.  You  will 
have  your  big  dish  ready,  with  one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream  or  milk  for  each  person.  Pour  your  stew  on  this 
and  serve  immediately.  Never  boil  an  oyster  in  milk. 

Maryland  Stewed  Oysters. — Put  the  juice  into  a  saucepan 
and  let  it  simmer,  skimming  it  carefully ;  then  rub  the  yelks 
of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  and  one  large  spoonful  of  flour 
well  together,  and  stir  into  the  juice.  Cut  in  small  pieces 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  whole 
allspice,  a  little  salt,  a  little  cayenne,  and  the  juice  of  a  fresh 
lemon;  let  all  simmer  ten  minutes,  and  just  before  dishing 
add  the  oysters.  This  is  for  two  quarts  of  oysters. 

Panned  Oysters. — Have  ready  several  small  pans  of  block 
tin,  with  upright  sides.  Cut  stale  bread  in  thin  slices,  then 
round  them  to  a  size  that  will  just  fit  in  the  bottoms  of  your 
pans.  Toast  these  quickly  to  a  light  brown,  butter,  and  lay 
within  your  tins.  Wet  with  a  great  spoonful  of  oyster  liquid, 
then,  with  a  silver  fork,  arrange  upon  the  toast  as  many  oys* 
ters  as  the  pans  will  hold  without  heaping  them  up.  Dust 
with  pepper  and  salt,  put  a  bit  of  butter  on  top,  and  set  the 
pans,  when  all  are  full,  upon  the  floor  of  a  quick  oven.  Cover 
with  an  inverted  baking-pan  to  keep  in  steam  and  flavor, 
and  cook  until  the  oysters  "  ruffle."  Eight  minutes  in  a 
brisk  oven  should  be  enough.  Send  very  hot  to  the  table 
in  tins  in  which  they  were  roasted.  Next  to  roasting  in  the 
shell,  this  mode  of  cooking  oysters  best  preserves  theii 
native  flavor. 


54  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Roasted  Oysters.— Take  oysters  in  the  shell;  wash  th* 
shells  clean,  and  lay  them  on  hot  coals  ;  when  they  are  done 
they  will  begin  to  open.  Remove  the  upper  shell,  and  serve 
the  oysters  in  the  lower  shell,  with  a  little  melted  butter 
poured  over  each,  and  season  to  taste. 

Oyster  Toast — Select  fifteen  plump  oysters;  mince  them, 
and  season  with  mixed  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg ;  beat 
the  yelks  of  four  eggs  and  mix  them  with  half  a  pint  of 
cream.  Put  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  and  set  it  over  the 
fire  to  simmer  till  thick ;  stir  it  well,  and  do  not  let  it  boil, 
lest  it  should  curdle.  Toast  five  pieces  of  bread,  and  butter 
them ;  when  your  dish  is  near  the  boiling-point,  remove  it 
from  the  fire  and  pour  it  over  the  toast. 

Cream  Oysters.— Fifty  shell  oysters,  one  quart  sweet  cream ; 
butter,  pepper,  and  salt  to  suit  taste.  Put  the  cream  and 
oysters  in  separate  kettles  to  heat,  the  oysters  in  their  own 
liquor,  and  let  them  come  to  a  boil;  when  sufficiently 
cooked,  skim ;  then  take  them  out  of  the  liquid  and  put 
them  into  a  dish  to  keep  warm.  Put  the  cream  and 
liquid  together.  Season  to  taste,  and  thicken  with  powdered 
cracker.  When  sufficiently  thick,  stir  in  the  oysters. 

Broiled  Oysters. — Drain  select  oysters  in  a  colander.  Dip 
them  one  by  one  into  melted  butter,  to  prevent  sticking  tc 
the  gridiron,  and  place  them  on  a  wire  gridiron.  Broil  over 
a  clear  fire.  When  nicely  browned  on  both  sides,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  plenty  of  butter,  and  lay  them  on  hot 
buttered  toast,  moistened  with  a  little  hot  water.  Serve 
very  hot  Oysters  cooked  in  this  way  and  served  on  broiled 
beefsteak  are  delicious. 

Pried  Oysters. — Select  the  largest  and  finest  fresh  oysters, 
put  them  into  a  colander  and  pour  over  a  little  water  to 
rinse  them ;  then  place  them  on  a  dean  towel  and  dry  them. 
Have  ready  some  grated  bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with 


FISH,  OYSTERS,  ETC.  55 

pepper  and  salt,  and  plenty  of  yelk  of  egg  beaten  till  very 
light ;  and  to  each  egg  allow  a  large  teaspoonful  of  rich 
cream  or  of  the  best  fresh  butter.  Beat  the  egg  and  cream 
together.  Dip  each  oyster  first  into  the  egg  and  cream, 
and  then  into  the  crumbs.  Repeat  this  twice,  until  the 
oysters  are  well  coated  all  over.  Have  ready  boiling,  in  a 
frying-pan,  an  equal  mixture  of  fresh  butter  and  lard.  It 
must  very  nearly  fill  the  frying-pan,  and  be  boiling  fast  when 
the  oysters  go  in,  otherwise  they  will  be  heavy  and  greasy. 
Fry  them  of  a  yellow  brown  on  both  sides,  and  serve  hot. 

Oyster  Salad,  see  Salads. 

Spiced  or  Pickled  Oysters. — Put  into  a  porcelain  kettle  one 
hundred  and  fifty  large  oysters  with  the  liquor ;  add  salt, 
and  simmer  till  the  edges  roll  or  curl ;  skim  them  out ;  add 
to  the  liquor  one  pint  of  white  wine  vinegar,  one  dozen 
blades  mace,  three  dozen  cloves,  and  three  dozen  pepper- 
corns ;  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  and  pour  over  the  oysters. 
Serve  with  slices  of  lemon  floating  in  saucer. 

Oyster  Omelette. — Allow  for  every  six  large  oysters  or 
twelve  small  ones  one  egg ;  remove  the  hard  part  and  mince 
the  rest  very  fine ;  take  the  yelks  of  eight  eggs  and  whites  of 
four,  beat  till  very  light,  then  mix  in  the  oysters  ;  season  and 
beat  up  thoroughly ;  put  into  a  skillet  a  gill  of  butter,  let  it 
melt ;  when  the  butter  boils,  skim  it  and  turn  in  the  ome- 
lette ;  stir  until  it  stiffens  ;  fry  light  brown  ;  when  the  under 
side  is  brown,  turn  on  to  a  hot  platter.  To  brown  the  upper 
side,  hold  a  red-hot  shovel  over  it. 

Scalloped  Oysters,  No.  1. — Open  the  shells,  setting  aside  for 
use  the  deepest  ones.  Have  ready  some  melted  butter,  not 
hot,  seasoned  with  minced  parsley  and  pepper.-  Roll  each 
oyster  in  this,  letting  it  drip  as  little  as  may  be,  and  lay  in 
the  shells;which  should  be  arranged  in  a  baking-pan.  Add 


66  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

to  each  a  little  lemon  juice,  sift  bread-crumbs  over  it,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  done.  Serve  in  the  shells. 

Scalloped  Oysters,  No.  2. — Cover  the  bottom  of  a  baking- 
dish  (well  buttered)  with  a  layer  of  crumbs,  and  wet  these 
with  cream,  put  on  spoonful  by  spoonful.  Pepper  and  salt, 
and  strew  with  minute  bits  of  butter.  Next,  put  in  the  oys- 
ters, with  a  little  of  their  liquor.  Pepper  them,  stick  bits  of 
butter  in  among  them,  and  cover  with  dry  crumbs  until  the 
oysters  are  entirely  hidden.  Add  more  pieces  of  butter,  very 
small,  and  arrange  thickly  on  top.  Set  in  the  oven,  invert 
a  plate  over  it  to  keep  in  the  flavor,  and  bake  until  the  juice 
bubbles  up  to  the  top.  Remove  the  cover,  and  brown  on 
the  upper  grating  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Serve  in  the 
bake-dish. 

Oyster  Pie. — Line  a  dish  with  a  puff  paste  or  a  rich  bis- 
cuit paste,  and  dredge  well  with  flour ;  drain  one  quart  of 
oysters ;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  butter,  and  pour  into 
the  dish ;  add  some  of  the  liquor ;  dredge  with  flour,  and 
cover  with  a  top  crust,  leaving  a  small  opening  in  the 
centre.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Oyster  Patties. — Put  one  quart  of  oysters  in  a  saucepan, 
with  liquor  enough  to  cover  them,  set  it  on  the  stove  and 
let  them  come  to  a  boil ;  skim  well,  and  stir  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  little  pepper,  and  salt  Line  some 
patty-pans  with  puff-paste,  fill  with  oysters,  cover  with  paste, 
and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  The  upper  crust 
may  be  omitted,  if  desired. 

Oyster  Macaroni. — Boil  macaroni  in  a  cloth  to  keep  it 
straight.  Put  a  layer  in  a  dish  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  butter,  then  a  layer  of  oysters,  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Mix  some  grated  bread  with  a  beaten  egg,  spread  over  the 
top,  and  bake. 

Oyster  Sauce,  see  Sauces. 


FISH,  OYSTERS,  ETC.  57 

Boiled  Lobster. — If  purchased  alive,  lobsters  should  be 
chosen  by  weight  (the  heaviest  are  the  best)  and  their  live* 
liness  and  briskness  of  motion.  When  freshly  boiled  they 
are  stiff,  and  their  tails  turn  strongly  inward ;  when  the  fish 
appear  soft  and  watery,  they  are  stale.  The  flesh  of  the 
male  lobster  is  generally  considered  of  the  finest  flavor  for 
eating,  but  the  hen  lobster  is  preferred  for  sauce  and  soups, 
on  account  of  the  coral. 

To  properly  boil  lobsters,  throw  them  living  into  a  kettle 
of  fast-boiling  salt  and  water,  that  life  may  be  destroyed  in 
an  instant.  Let  them  boil  for  about  half  an  hour.  When 
done,  take  them  out  of  the  kettle,  wipe  them  clean,  and  rub 
the  shell  with  a  little  salad-oil,  which  will  give  a  clear  red 
appearance.  Crack  the  large  claws  without  mashing  them, 
and  with  a  sharp  knife  split  the  body  and  tail  from  end  to 
end.  The  head,  which  is  never  eaten,  should  also  be  sepa- 
rated from  the  body,  but  laid  so  near  it  that  the  division  is 
almost  imperceptible.  Dress  in  any  way  preferred. 

Deviled  Lobster. — Procure  a  live,  heavy  lobster ;  put  it  in 
a  pot  of  boiling  water,  with  a  handful  of  salt  to  it.  When 
done  and  cold,  take  out  all  the  meat  carefully,  putting  the 
fat  and  coral  on  separate  plates;  cut  the  meat  in  small 
pieces,  rub  the  coral  to  a  paste ;  stir  the  fat  in  it,  with  a  little 
salt,  cayenne,  chopped  parsley,  essence  of  anchovies,  and 
salad-oil,  or  melted  butter  and  lemon  juice ;  cut  the  back  of 
the  lobster-shell  in  two,  lengthwise ;  wash  clean ;  stir  the 
lobster  and  sauce  well  together;  fill  the  shells;  sprinkle 
bread-crumbs  and  a  few  bits  of  butter  over  the  top ;  set  in 
the  oven  until  the  crumbs  are  brown. 

Stewed  Lobster. — A  middling-sized  lobster  is  best;  pick 
all  the  meat  from  the  shells  and  mince  it  fine ;  season  with 
a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg ;  add  three  or  four 
of  rich  gravy  m$  a  srnall  bit  pf  butter,  If  ypy 


PpWlfwJs 


58  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

have   no  gravy,    use   more   butter  and   two   spoonfuls   of 
vinegar ;  stew  about  twenty  minutes. 

Lobster  Salad,  see  Salads. 
Lobster  Croquettes,  see  Croquettes. 
Lobster  Sauce,  see  Sauces. 

Lobster  Patties. — Proceed  as  in  oyster  patties,  but  use  the 
meat  of  a  cold  boiled  lobster. 

Terrapins. — Put  the  terrapins  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water, 
where  they  must  remain  until  they  are  quite  dead.  You 
then  divest  them  of  their  outer  skin  and  toe-nails ;  and, 
after  washing  them  in  warm  water,  boil  them  again  until 
they  become  quite  tender,  adding  a  handful  of  salt  to  the 
water.  Having  satisfied  yourself  of  their  being  perfectly 
tender,  take  ofF  the  shells  and  clean  the  terrapins  very  care- 
fully, removing  the  sandbag  and  gall  without  by  any  means 
breaking  them.  Then  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces  and  put 
into  a  saucepan,  adding  the  juice  which  has  been  given  out 
in  cutting  them  up,  but  no  water,  and  season  with  salt,  cay- 
enne, and  black  pepper  to  your  taste,  adding  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  good  butter  for  each  terrapin  and  a  handful  of 
flour  for  thickening.  After  stirring  a  short  time,  add  four 
or  five  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  and  a  half  pint  of  good 
Maderia  to  every  four  terrapins,  and  serve  hot  in  a  deep 
dish.  A  very  little  mace  may  be  added  and  a  large  table- 
spoonful  of  mustard;  just  before  serving,  add  the  yelks  of 
four  hard-boiled  eggs.  During  the  stewing,  particular 
attention  must  be  paid  to  stirring  the  preparation  frequently ; 
and  terrapins  cannot  possibly  be  served  too  hot. 

Mock  Terrapin. — Take  half  a  calf's  I'Ver,  season  and  fry  it 
brown ;  chop  it  into  dice,  not  too  small ;  flour  it  thickly, 
and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  a  little  cayenne 
pepper,  two  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  fine,  a  lump  of  but- 


FISH,  OYSTERS,  ETC.  59 

ter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  a  teacupful  of  water.     Let  it  boil 
a  minute  or  two.     Cold  veal  will  do  as  well  as  liver. 

Scalloped  Crabs.— Put  the  crabs  into  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water,  and  throw  in  a  handful  of  salt.  Boil  from  twenty 
minutes  to  half  an  hour.  Take  them  from  the  water  when 
done  and  pick  out  all  the  meat ;  be  careful  not  to  break  the 
shell.  To  a  pint  of  meat  put  a  little  salt  and  pepper ;  taste, 
and  if  not  enough  add  more,  a  little  at  a  time,  till  suited. 
Grate  in  a  very  little  nutmeg,  and  add  one  spoonful  of 
cracker  or  bread  crumbs,  two  eggs  well  beaten,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  (even  full) ;  stir  all  well  together ; 
wash  the  shells  clean,  and  fill  each  shell  full  of  the  mixture ; 
sprinkle  crumbs  over  the  top  and  moisten  with  butter,  then 
bake  until  nicely  browned  on  top. 

Soft-shell  Crabs. — Season  with  pepper  and  salt;  roll  in 
flour,  then  in  egg,  then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
lard.  Serve  hot  with  rich  condiments. 

Stewed  Clams. — Chop  the  clams  and  season  with  pepper 
and  salt;  put  in  a  saucepan  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and 
when  melted  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour;  add  slowly  the 
clam  liquor  and  then  the  clams,  and  cook  three  minutes; 
then  add  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and  serve. 

Deviled  Clams. — Chop  fifty  clams  very  fine;  take  two 
tomatoes,  one  onion  chopped  equally  fine,  a  little  parsley, 
thyme,  and  sweet  marjoram,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  bread- 
crumbs, adding  the  juice  of  the  clams  until  the  mixture  is 
of  the  consistency  of  sausage ;  put  it  in  the  shells  with  a 
lump  of  butter  on  each  ;  cover  with  bread-crumbs,  and  bake 
one-half  hour. 

Clam  Chowder. — Forty-five  clams  chopped,  one  quart  of 
sliced  potatoes,  one-half  pint  sliced  onions.  Cut  a  few  slices 
fait  pork,  fry  to  a  crisp,  chop  fige,  Put  in  fcettje  $  JjjttJe  fyl 


60  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

from  the  pork,  a  layer  of  potatoes,  clams,  onions,  a  little  pep* 
per  and  salt ;  another  layer  of  chopped  pork,  potatoes,  etc., 
until  all  are  in.  Pour  over  all  the  juice  of  the  clams.  Cook 
three  hours,  being  careful  not  to  burn.  Add  a  teacupful  of 
milk  just  before  serving. 

Scallops. — Wipe  dry;  dip  separately  into  seasoned  egg, 
then  into  cracker  dust,  and  fry  in  hot  lard. 

RECIPES   INCIDENTAL  TO   FISH. 

Bread  Stuffing  for  Fish. — Take  about  half  a  pound  of  stale 
bread  and  soak  in  water,  and  when  soft  press  out  the  water; 
add  a  very  little  chopped  suet,  pepper,  salt,  a  large  table- 
spoonful  of  onion  minced  and  fried,  and,  if  preferred,  a  little 
minced  parsley  •  cook  a  trifle,  and  after  removing  from  the 
fire  add  a  beaten  egg. 

Bread  Stuffing,  No.  2. — Bread-crumbs  with  a  little  chopped 
parsley  and  pork,  salt,  pepper,  and  butter.  Fill  up  the  fish, 
sew  it  closely,  then  bake. 

Cleaning  a  Shad. — Scale  and  scrape  it  carefully;  split  it 
down  the  back  and  remove  the  contents,  reserving  the  roc 
or  melt.  Wash  well  and  cook  as  desired. 

Soaking  Salt  Fish. — Very  salt  fish  should  be  soaked  several 
hours  in  three  or  four  changes  of  warm  water.  Place  the 
skin  side  up,  so  that  salt  crystals  may  fall  away  from  the 
under  or  meat  side.  Wipe  carefully  and  clean,  then  soak 
for  an  hour  in  very  cold  water. 

Fish  in  Season. — As  a  rule,  fish  are  in  best  condition  just 
before  they  spawn,  and  many  are  so  while  they  are  full  of 
roe,  as  smelts,  mackerel,  and  shad.  As  soon  as  spawning  is 
over,  they  become  unfit  for  food,  some  of  them  becoming 
positively  unwholesome.  In  season,  the  flesh  is  firm  and  it 
boils  white ;  when  it  boils  to  a  bluish  hue,  the  fish  are  not 
in  season,  or  are  stale, 


IV.—  POULTRY  AND  GAME. 


REMARKS    ON    POULTRY    AND    GAME  —  HOW  TO   SELECT, 

PREPARATION    FOR   BOILING,  FOR   ROASTING,  ETC.       THIRTY-ONE 
RECIPES   FOR   POULTRY  AND    GAME. 

POULTRY  should  invariably  be  selected  young,  plump, 
and  well  fed,  but  not  too  fat.  If  old  and  tough,  fowls 
are  never  as  savory  when  cooked  as  if  they  be  young 
and  tender.  This  applies  especially  to  ducks  and  geese.  The 
flesh  of  young  fowls  will  be  firm  and  fleshy  to  the  touch, 
and  heavy  in  proportion  to  their  size  ;  the  skin  should  be 
clear,  white,  and  finely  grained,  the  toes  pliable  and  easily 
broken  when  bent  back,  the  end  of  the  breast-bone  also 
pliable.  All  kinds  of  poultry,  turkeys  especially,  are  im- 
proved by  hanging  a  day  or  two,  unless  the  weather  should 
be  exceedingly  sultry.  Dark-legged  fowls  are  best  for 
roasting,  while  the  white-legged  ones  should  be  chosen  for 
boiling. 

In  preparing  fowls  for  boiling,  some  persons  soak  fowls 
an  hour  or  two  in  skimmed-milk  and  then  sew  them  in  a 
floured  cloth.  This  tends  to  preserve  them  of  a  nice  color, 
but  it  may  be  dispensed  with  by  carefully  skimming  them 
while  over  the  fire. 

In  dressing  poultry,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  break  the 
gall  ;  a  thorough  cleansing  in  every  part  also  is  necessary. 
The  hairs  should  be  singed  off  with  a  well-lighted  piece  of 
paper,  holding  the  fowl  before  a  hot  fire.  All  the  pin* 
feathers  should  be  carefully  and  entirely  removed,  as  also 
the  oil-bag  at  the  end  of  the  back.  The  legs  should  be  cut 
off  at  the  first  jpint  aext  tp  the  feet,  The  inside  should  b$ 


62  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

washed  and  rinsed  several  times  in  cold  water,  after  every- 
thing has  been  removed.  Remove  extra  fat,  as  it  tends  to 
make  the  gravy  greasy.  The  heart  should  be  slit  open 
and  cleansed,  also  the  gizzard,  and  both  should  be  put  by 
themselves  to  soak  in  water. 

Roasted  or  broiled  poultry  of  all  kinds  should  be  thor- 
oughly cooked  and  handsomely  browned.  It  is  not  easy  to 
state  exactly  the  time  required  for  the  different  sorts  to  be 
well  done.  Experience  and  practice  are  the  only  sure 
guides. 

RECIPES. 

Roast  Turkey. — A  young  turkey,  weighing  not  more  than 
eight  or  nine  pounds,  is  the  best.  Wash  and  clean  thor- 
oughly, wiping  dry,  as  moisture  will  spoil  the  stuffing. 
Take  one  small  loaf  of  bread  grated  fine,  rub  into  it  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  one  small  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
per and  one  of  salt;  a  sprinkling  of  sweet  marjoram,  sum- 
mer savory,  or  sage,  if  liked.  Rub  all  together,  and  fill  the 
turkey,  sewing  up  so  that  the  stuffing  cannot  cook  out. 
Always  put  the  giblets  under  the  side  of  the  fowl,  so  they 
will  not  dry  up.  Rub  salt,  pepper,  and  butter  on  the  out- 
side; put  into  dripping-pan  with  one  teacupful  of  water, 
basting  often,  turning  the  fowl  till  brown  all  over ;  bake 
about  two  hours  ;  take  out  the  giblets  and  chop  fine.  After 
taking  out  the  turkey,  put  a  large  tablespoonful  of  flour  into 
the  pan  and  stir  until  brown.  Put  the  giblets  into  a  gravy- 
boat,  and  pour  over  them  the  gravy. 

Boiled  Turkey. — Stuff  the  turkey  as  for  roasting.  A  very 
nice  dressing  is  made  by  chopping  half  a  pint  of  oysters 
and  mixing  them  with  bread-crumbs,  butter,  pepper,  salt, 
thyme,  and  wet  with  milk  or  water.  Baste  about  the  turkey 
a  thin  cloth,  the  inside  of  which  has  been  dredged  with 
flpur,  and  put  it  to  boil  in  cold  water  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 


POULTRY  AND   GAME.  63 

in  it.  Let  a  large  turkey  simmer  for  three  hours,  skim 
while  boiling.  Serve  with  oyster  sauce,  made  by  adding  to 
a  cupful  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  turkey  was  boiled  the 
same  quantity  of  milk  and  eight  oysters  chopped  fine ;  sea- 
son with  minced  parsley ;  stir  in  a  spoonful  of  rice  or  wheat 
flour  wet  with  cold  milk ;  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Boil 
up  once  and  pour  into  a  tureen. 

Boned  Turkey. — Boil  a  large  turkey  in  as  little  water  as 
possible  until  the  meat  falls  from  the  bones ;  remove  all  the 
bones  and  skin ;  pick  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  and  mix 
dark  and  light  together ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt ;  put 
into  a  mold  and  pour  over  it  the  liquor,  which  must  be  kept 
warm,  and  press  with  a  heavy  weight. 

Roast  Chicken. — Having  selected  your  chickens  in  view  of 
the  foregoing  hints,  proceed,  in  the  matters  of  cleansing, 
filling,  and  preparing  for  the  oven,  precisely  as  directed  in 
the  case  of  roast  turkey.  As  the  roasting  goes  on,  baste 
and  turn  as  may  be  needful  to  secure  a  rich  brown  all  over 
the  fowls.  Prepare  the  gravy  as  in  the  former  case. 

Stewed  Chicken. — Clean  and  cut  the  chicken  into  joints ; 
put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  the  giblets ;  stew  in  just  enough 
water  to  cover  it  until  tender ;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
butter ;  thicken  with  flour ;  boil  up  once  and  serve  with  the 
gravy  poured  over  it. 

Broiled  Chicken. — Only  young,  tender  ehickens  are  nice 
broiled.  After  cleaning  and  washing  them,  split  down  the 
back,  wipe  dry,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  lay  them 
inside  down  on  a  hot  gridiron  over  a  bed  of  bright  coals. 
Broil  until  nicely  browned  and  well  cooked  through,  watch- 
ing and  turning  to  prevent  burning.  If  chickens  are  large, 
steaming  them  for  one-half  hour  before  placing  on  the  grid- 
iron will  better  insure  their  being  cooked  through* 


64  EVERY    WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Fricasseed  Chickens. — Cut  them  in  pieces,  and  put  in  the 
stewpan  with  salt  and  pepper ;  add  a  little  water,  and  let 
them  boil  half  an  hour ;  thon  thicken  the  gravy  with  flour ; 
add  butter  and  a  little  cream,  if  you  have  it.  Catsup  is  an 
additional  relish  to  the  gravy. 

Smothered  Chicken. — Dress  your  chickens ;  wash  and  let 
them  stand  in  water  half  an  hour  to  make  them  white ;  cut 
them  open  at  the  back;  put  into  a  baking-pan,  sprinkle 
salt  and  pepper  over  them,  putting  a  lump  of  butter  here 
and  there ;  cover  tightly  with  another  pan  the  same  size,  and 
bake  one  hour ;  baste  often  with  butter. 

Pried  Chicken. — Prepare  the  chicken  as  for  stewing ;  dry  it, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  with  flour,  and  fry 
brown  in  hot  butter  or  lard ;  take  it  out,  drain,  and  serve 
with  Challenge  Sauce,  or  some  other  savory  condiment,  or 
pour  into  the  gravy  left  in  the  frying-pan  a  cup  of  milk, 
thicken  with  flour,  add  a  little  butter,  and  season  with  Sal- 
picant;  boil  once  and  pour  over  the  chicken,  or  serve  sepa- 
rately. 

Chickens  Fried  with  Rice. — Take  two  or  three  chickens, 
cut  them  up,  and  half  fry  them ;  then  boil  half  a  pint  of  rice 
in  a  quart  of  water,  leaving  the  grains  distinct,  but  not  too 
dry ;  stir  one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  the  rice  while 
hot ;  let  five  eggs  be  well  beaten  into  the  rice,  with  a  little 
salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  if  the  last  is  liked ;  put  the  chick- 
ens into  a  deep  dish,  and  cover  with  the  rice ;  brown  in  an 
oven  not  too  hot. 

Chicken  Pie. — Line  the  sides  of  a  deep  pie-dish  with  a 
good  puff  paste.  Have  your  chicken  cooked,  as  for  a 
fricassee,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  chopped 
parsley.  When  they  are  nearly  cooked,  lay  them  in  a  pie^ 
dish  with  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork  cut  into  small  squares, 

some  of  the  paste  also  cut  into  hatf-inch  pieces;  pour 


POULTRY  AND   GAME.  fl5 

to  a  part  of  the  chicken  gravy,  thicken  with  a  little  flour, 
and  cover  the  dish  with  the  paste  cover.  Cut  a  hole  the 
size  of  a  dollar  in  the  cover,  and  cover  it  with  a  piece  of 
dough.  When  baking,  remove  this  piece  occasionally  and 
examine  the  interior.  Brush  egg  over  the  top  crust  of  the 
pie,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Should  the  pie  become  dry 
pour  in  more  of  the  gravy.  Pigeon  pie  or  any  other  bird 
pie  may  be  made  by  the  above  recipe. 

Chicken  Pot-pie.— Cut  and  joint  a  large  chicken.  Cover 
with  water,  and  let  it  boil  gently  until  tender.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  thicken  the  gravy  with  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  flour  mixed  smooth  in  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of 
an  egg.  Have  ready  nice,  light  bread  dough  ;  cut  with  a 
biscuit-cutter  about  an  inch  thick ;  drop  this  into  the  boiling 
gravy,  having  previously  removed  the  chicken  to  a  hot 
platter;  cover,  and  let  them  boil  from  one-half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  To  ascertain  whether  they  are  done, 
stick  them  with  a  fork ;  if  it  comes  out  clean,  they  are  done. 
Lay  them  on  the  platter  with  the  chicken,  pour  over  the 
gravy,  and  serve. 

Pressed  Chicken.— Boil  three  chickens  until  the  meat  comes 
off  the  bones  ;  then,  removing  all  bones,  etc.,  chop,  not  very 
fine  ;  add  a  piece  of  butter  as  large  as  an  egg,  salt  and  pepper 
to  season  well.  Have  about  a  pint  of  the  broth,  into  which 
put  one-half  box  gelatine  until  dissolved;  then  put  back  tha 
chopped  chicken  and  cook  until  the  broth  is  evenly  ab- 
sorbed. Press  under  a  weight  in  a  pan  until  cold.  Veal 
may  be  treated  in  a  similar  manner  with  very  excellent 
results. 

Jellied  Chicken. — Boil  a  chicken  in  as  little  water  as  pos- 
sible, until  the  meat  falls  from  the  bones ;  chop  rather  fine, 
and  season  with  pepper  and  salt ;  put  in  a  mold  a  layer  of 
$ 


66  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

the  chopped  meat,  and  then  a  layer  of  hard-boiled  eggs  cut 
in  slices ;  then  layers  of  meat  and  egg  alternately  until  the 
mold  is  nearly  full ;  boil  down  the  liquor  left  in  the  pot 
one-half;  while  warm,  add  one-quarter  of  an  ounce  of  gela- 
tine, and  when  dissolved  pour  into  the  mold  over  the  meat 
Sit  in  a  cool  place  over  night  to  jelly. 

Roast  Goose  and  Duck. — A  goose  should  always  be  par- 
boiled, as  it  removes  the  rank  taste  and  makes  it  more 
palatable.  Clean,  prepare,  and  roast  the  same  as  turkey, 
only  adding  to  the  force-meat  a  large  onion  chopped  fine. 
Ducks  do  not  require  parboiling  (unless  very  old),  otherwise 
they  are  cooked  the  same  as  geese. 

Canvas-back  Duck. — Having  picked,  singed,  and  drawn  it 
well,  wipe  it  carefully,  so  as  to  have  it  clean  without  wash- 
ing. Truss  it,  leaving  the  head  on,  to  show  its  quality. 
Place  it  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  at  least  three-quarters 
of  an  hour ;  serve  it  hot,  in  its  own  gravy,  on  a  large  chafing- 
dish.  Currant  jelly  should  be  on  the  table. 

Roast  Pigeons. — Clean,  wash,  and  stuff  the  same  as  poultry; 
lay  them  in  rows  in  a  dripping-pan  with  a  little  water. 
Unless  they  are  very  fat,  baste  with  butter  until  they  are 
half  done,  afterward  with  their  own  gravy. 

Roast  Snipe. — Clean  and  truss,  but  do  not  stuff  Lay  in 
rows  in  the  dripping-pan,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  baste  well 
with  butter,  then  with  butter  and  water.  When  they  begin 
to  brown,  cut  as  many  slices  of  bread  as  there  are  birds. 
Toast  quickly,  butter,  and  lay  in  the  dripping-pan,  a  bird 
upon  each.  When  the  birds  are  done,  serve  upon  the  toast, 
with  the  gravy  poured  over  it.  The  toast  should  lie  under 
them  while  cooking  at  least  five  minutes,  during  which  time 
the  birds  should  be  basted  with  melted  butter  seasoned  with 
pepper.  The  largest  snipe  will  not  require  above  twenty 


PO  UL  TR  Y  AND  GAME.  67 

minutes  to  roast.  Or,  dip  an  oyster  in  melted  butter,  then 
in  bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  in 
each  bird  before  roasting.  Small  birds  are  especially  de- 
licious cooked  in  this  way. 

Roast  Partridges,  Pheasants,  or  Quails.— Pluck,  singe,  draw, 
and  truss  them  ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  roast  for  about 
half  an  hour  in  a  brisk  oven,  basting  often  with  butter. 
When  done,  place  on  a  dish  together  with  bread-crumbs 
fried  brown  and  arranged  in  small  heaps.  Gravy  should  be 
served  separately  in  a  tureen. 

Quail  on  Toast. — Clean,  wash,  slit  down  the  back,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  lay  them  on  a  gridiron,  the  inside 
down.  Broil  slowly;  when  nicely  browned,  butter  well. 
Serve  with  cream  gravy  on  toast.  Omitting  the  cream, 
gravy,  and  toast,  you  have  the  ordinary  broiled  quail. 
Pigeons,  woodcock,  and  small  birds  may  be  broiled  in  the 
same  manner,  and  are  delicious  and  nourishing  for  invalids. 

Fried  Rabbit— After  the  rabbit  has  been  thoroughly 
cleaned  and  washed,  put  it  into  boiling  water  and  let  it  boil 
for  about  ten  minutes ;  drain,  and  when  cold,  cut  it  into 
joints;  dip  into  beaten  egg,  and  then  into  fine  bread-crumbs, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  all  are  ready,  fry 
them  in  butter  over  a  moderate  fire  fifteen  minutes ;  thicken 
the  gravy  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  small  teaspocnful 
of  flour.  Serve  hot. 

Roast  Rabbit. — Dress  nicely  and  fill  with  a  dressing  made 
of  bread-crumbs,  a  little  onion,  sage,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  a 
small  piece  of  butter ;  tie  a  piece  of  salt  pork  over  it ;  put 
into  a  dripping-pan  with  a  little  water  in  a  quick  oven; 
baste  often  ;  serve  with  currant  jelly. 

Broiled  Steaks  of  Venison. — Heat  the  gridiron,  grease  it 
well,  lay  on  the  steaks ;  broil  quickly,  without  scorching, 


08  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

turning  them  two  or  three  times;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Have  butter  melted  in  a  well-heated  platter,  into 
which  lay  steaks,  hot  from  the  gridiron,  turning  them  over 
several  times  in  the  butter,  and  serve  hot  with  currant  jelly 
on  each  steak.  It  is  well  to  set  the  platter  into  another 
containing  boiling  water. 

Game  or  Poultry  in  Jelly. — Take  a  knuckle  of  veal  weighing 
two  pounds ;  a  slice  of  lean  ham ;  one  shallot,  minced ;  a 
sprig  of  thyme  and  one  of  parsley ;  six  pepper-corns  (white) 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  with  three  pints  of  cold  water. 
Boil  all  these  together  until  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  a  pint ; 
strain  without  squeezing,  and  set  to  cool  until  next  day.  It 
should  then  be  a  firm  jelly.  Take  off  every  particle  of  fat. 
Then  take  one  package  gelatine,  soaked  in  one  cupful  cold 
water  for  three  hours ;  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar ;  two  table- 
spoonfuls  strained  lemon  juice,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
currant  jelly,  dissolved  in  cold  water,  and  strained  through 
a  muslin  cloth.  Pour  a  quart  of  boiling  water  over  the  gela- 
tine, stir  for  a  moment,  add  the  jellied  "  stock,"  and  when 
this  is  dissolved,  add  sugar,  lemon  juice, and  coloring.  Stir 
until  all  are  mixed  and  melted  together,  and  strain  without 
shaking  or  squeezing  through  a  flannel  bag  until  quite  clear. 
Have  ready  several  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  the  remains  of 
roast  game,  roast  or  boiled  poultry,  cut  in  neat,  thin  slices, 
and  salted  slightly.  Wet  a  mold  with  cold  water,  and 
when  the  jelly  begins  to  harden,  pour  some  in  the  bottom. 
Cut  the  whites  of  the  eggs  in  pretty  shapes — stars,  flowers, 
rings,  leaves — with  a  keen  penknife,  and  arrange  these  on 
the  lowest  stratum  of  jelly,  which  should  be  thin,  that  the 
forms  may  be  visible.  Add  more  jelly,  and  on  this  lay 
slices  of  meat,  close  together.  More  jelly,  and  proceed  in 
this  order  until  the  mold  is  full.  Set  in  a  cool  place  to 
harden,  and  then  turn  out  upon  a  flat  dish.  A  mold  with 
•mooth,  upright  sides,  te  best  for  this  purpose. 


POULTRY  AND  GAM£.  69 

RECIPES   INCIDENTAL  TO   POULTRY,    GAME,    ETC. 

Gravy  for  Poultry.— Boil  the  giblets  very  tender;  chop  fine ; 
then  take  the  liquor  in  which  they  are  boiled,  thicken  with 
flour ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  butter ;  add  the 
giblets  and  dripping  in  which  the  turkey  was  roasted. 

Plain  Stuffing.— Take  stale  bread,  cut  off  all  the  crust,  rub 
very  fine,  and  pour  over  it  as  much  melted  butter  as  will 
make  it  crumble  in  your  hands ;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
See  also  under  "  Roast  Turkey." 

Potato  Stuffing. — Take  two-thirds  bread  and  one-third 
boiled  potatoes  grated,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  pepper,  salt, 
one  egg ;  mix  thoroughly. 

Oyster  Stuffing. — By  substituting  oysters  for  potatoes  in 
the  above,  you  have  oyster  filling.  See  also  under  "  Boiled 
Turkey." 

Stuffing  for  Boiled  Chicken. — One  cupful  of  bread-crumbs, 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  egg,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  sweet  marjoram.  Mix  well ; 
stuff  and  sew  in. 

Capons. — Young  male  fowls,  prepared  by  early  gelding, 
and  then  nicely  fattened,  are  the  finest  delicacies  in  the 
poultry  line.  They  may  be  known  by  a  small  head,  pale 
comb,  which  is  short  and  withered,  the  neck  feathers  longer 
than  usual,  smooth  legs,  and  soft,  short  spurs.  They  are 
cooked  as  ordinary  chickens. 

Keeping  Game. — Game  is  rendered  more  tender,  and  its 
flavor  is  improved  by  keeping.  If  wrapped  in  a  cloth  satu- 
rated with  equal  parts  of  pyroligneous  acid  and  water,  it 
will  keep  many  days.  If  in  danger  of  tainting,  clean,  rub 
well  with  salt,  and  plunge  into  boiling  water,  letting  it  run 
through  them  for  five  minutes  ;  then  hang  in  a  cold  place. 
If  tainted,  put  them  in  new  milk  over  night.  Always  hang 
them  up  by  the  neck. 


V.—  MEATS. 

I.—  BEEF. 

HOW  TO  SELECT  BEEF  J  CHOICE  ROASTING  PIECES,  STEAKS,  BOIL- 
ING PIECES,  SOUP  PIECES,  ETC.  HOW  TO  ROAST,  BROIL,  AN» 
BOIL  BEEF.  NINETEEN  RECIPES  FOR  COOKING  BEEF. 


beef  may  be  known  by  its  color.     That  of  a 
I  y  deep,  healthy  red,  fine,  smooth,  open    grain,  veined 
with  white,  being  the  best.     The  fat  should  be  oily, 
smooth,  and  inclined  to  white,  rather  than  yellow,  as  yellow 
fat  is  a  sure  sign  of  inferior  quality. 

The  sixth,  seventh,  and  eighth  ribs  and  the  sirloin  are 
considered  the  choicest  cuts  for  roasting.  The  inside  of  the 
sirloin  and  the  rump  are  the  most  tender  for  steaks,  though 
here  is  a  point  where  individual  taste  may  be  exercised. 
By  some  epicures  what  is  known  as  the  pin-bone  steak  is 
regarded  as  superior  to  any  other.  The  round,  buttock, 
shin,  or  brisket  may  be  boiled  or  stewed.  The  neck  or 
shoulder  is  generally  used  for  soups,  gravy,  etc. 

In  roasting  beef  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  brisk  fire.  The 
roast  must  be  well  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
dredged  with  flour.  Baste  it  frequently.  About  fifteen 
minutes  is  required  for  roasting  every  pound  of  beef. 

To  broil  meats  well,  have  the  gridiron  hot  and  the  bars 
well  greased  before  putting  on  the  meat. 

In  boiling  beef,  or  indeed  any  fresh  meat,  plunge  it  into 
boiling  water,  that  the  outer  parts  may  contract,  and  so 
retain  the  internal  juices.  Salt  meats  should  be  put  on  in 
cold  water,  that  the  salt  may  be  extracted  in  the  cooking. 
In  boiling  meats,  it  is  important  to  keep  the  water  constantly 

70 


MEATS.  ft 

boiling,  otherwise  the  meat  will  absorb  the  water.  Be 
careful  to  add  boiling  water  only,  if  more  is  needed.  Cold 
water  will  check  the  process  of  cooking  and  spoil  the  flavor. 
Remove  the  scum  as  soon  as  the  boiling  commences.  Allow 
about  twenty  minutes  boiling  for  each  pound  of  fresh  meat, 
and  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour  for  all  salt 
meats,  except  ham,  which  requires  but  fifteen  minutes  to  the 
pound.  The  more  gently  all  meats  boil  the  more  tender 
they  will  be.  Slow  boiling  makes  meat  far  better. 

RECIPES. 

Roast  Beef. — The  best  roasting-pieces  are  the  middle  ribs 
and  the  sirloin.  The  ends  of  the  ribs  should  be  removed 
from  the  flank,  and  the  latter  folded  under  the  beef  and 
securely  fastened  with  skewers.  Rub  a  little  salt  into  the 
fat  part ;  place  the  meat  in  the  dripping-pan  with  a  pint  of 
stock  or  water ;  baste  freely,  and  dredge  with  flour  half  an 
hour  before  taking  the  joint  from  the  oven.  Should  the 
oven  be  very  hot,  place  a  buttered  paper  over  the  meat  to 
prevent  it  scorching  while  yet  raw.  When  the  paper  is 
used  it  will  need  very  little  basting.  Or,  turn  the  rib  side 
up  toward  the  fire  for  the  first  twenty  minutes.  The  time  it 
will  take  in  cooking  depends  upon  the  thickness  of  the  joint 
and  the  length  of  time  the  animal  has  been  killed.  Skim  the 
fat  from  the  gravy  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  prepared 
brown  flour  to  the  remainder. 

Roast  Beef  with  Yorkshire  Pudding.— Take  a  large  rib 
roast ;  rub  salt  and  pepper  over  it,  and  dredge  with  flour. 
Place  on  a  rack  in  a  dripping-pan,  with  very  little  water, 
until  it  is  heated  thoroughly;  baste  frequently.  When 
nicely  browned  on  the  upper  side,  turn  and  baste.  About 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  it  is  done,  take  out  the 
meat,  pour  off  most  of  the  dripping,  put  the  batter  for  the 


72  EV2RY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

pudding  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  allowing  the  drippings 
from  the  beef  to  drop  into  it.  When  the  pudding  is  done, 
return  the  meat  and  finish  roasting.  Add  some  hot  water 
t©  the  dripping  and  thicken  with  flour  for  the  gravy. 

For  the  batter  of  this  pudding,  take  half  a  cup  of  butter, 
three  cups  of  flour,  three  eggs,  one  cup  of  milk,  and  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Beef  a  la  Mode. — Take  a  round  of  fresh  beef,  extract  the 
bone,  and  take  away  the  fat.  For  a  round  weighing  ten 
pounds,  make  a  seasoning  or  stuffing  as  follows  :  Half  a 
pound  of  beef  suet ;  half  a  pound  of  grated  bread-crumbs ; 
the  crumbled  yelks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs;  a  little 
bundle  of  sweet  marjoram,  the  leaves  chopped ;  another  of 
sweet  basil;  four  onions  minced  small;  a  large  tablespoonful 
of  mixed  mace  and  nutmeg  powdered.  Season  lightly  with 
salt  and  cayenne.  Stuff  this  mixture  into  the  place  from 
whence  you  took  out  the  bone.  Make  a  number  of  deep 
cuts  about  the  meat,  and  stuff  them  also.  Skewer  the  meat 
into  a  favorable  shape,  and  secure  its  form  by  tying  it  round 
with  tape.  Put  it  into  a  tin  bakepan,  and  pour  over  it  a 
pint  of  port  wine.  Put  on  the  lid,  and  bake  the  beef  slowly  for 
five  or  six  hours,  or  till  it  is  thoroughly  done.  If  the  meat 
is  to  be  eaten  hot,  skim  all  the  fat  from  the  gravy,  into 
which,  after  it  is  taken  off  the  fire,  stir  in  the  beaten  yelks 
of  two  eggs.  Minced  oysters  may  be  substituted  for  onions. 

Spiced  Beef. — Boil  a  shin  of  beef  weighing  ten  or  twelve 
pounds,  until  the  meat  falls  readily  from  the  bones.  Pick 
the  meat  to  pieces,  and  mash  the  gristle  very  fine,  rejecting 
all  parts  that  are  too  hard  to  masih.  Set  away  the  liquor  in 
which  the  beef  has  boiled  till  it  is  cold  ;  then  take  off  all  the 
fat.  Boil  the  liquor  down  to  a  pint  and  a  half.  Roll  a 
dozen  crackers  very  fine,  and  add  them  to  the  meat.  Then 
return  the  meat  to  the  liquor,  and  heat  it  all.  Add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  half  a  teasooonful  of  cloves,  half  a  teaspoon- 


MEATS.  73 

ful  of  cinnamon,  half  a  teaspoonful  01  parsley  chopped  fine, 
and  a  little  powdered  nutmeg.  Let  it  boil  up  once,  and  put 
into  a  mold  or  deep  dish,  with  a  weight  adjusted  to  press 
it  down.  When  it  is  entirely  cold,  cut  into  thin  slices. 

Savory  Beet — Take  a  shin  of  beef  from  the  hind-quarter, 
saw  it  into  four  pieces,  put  it  into  a  pot,  and  boil  it  until  the 
meat  and  gristle  drop  from  the  bones  ;  chop  the  meat  very- 
fine,,  put  it  in  a  dish,  and  season  it  with  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
clove,  and  sage,  to  your  taste ;  pour  in  the  liquor  in  which 
the  meat  was  boiled,  and  place  it  away  to  harden.  Cut  in 
slices  and  eat  cold. 

Minced  Beef — Cut  cold  roast  beef  into  thin  slices;  put 
Some  of  the  gravy  into  a  stewpan,  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour,  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  it  up  Add  a  little  catsup, 
and  put  in  the  minced  slices,  and  heat  them  through,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil.  Put  small  slices  of  toast  in  the  dish,  and 
cover  with  the  meat. 

Deviled  Beef. — Take  slices  of  cold  roast  beef,  lay  them  on 
hot  coals,  and  broil ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve 
while  hot,  with  a  small  lump  of  butter  on  each  piece. 

Curried  Beef. — Take  about  two  ounces  of  butter  and  place 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  small  onions  cut  up  into  slices, 
and  let  them  fry  till  they  are  of  a  light  brown ;  then  add  a 
tablespoonful  and  a  half  of  curry  powder,  and  mix  it  up 
well.  Now  cut  up  the  beef  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
Square ;  pour  in  from  a  quarter  to  a  third  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  let  it  simmer  for  thirty  minutes ;  then  take  it  off  and 
place  it  in  a  dish  with  a  little  lemon  juice.  While  cooking 
stir  constantly,  to  prevent  burning.  Send  it  to  table  with  a 
wall  of  mashed  potatoes  or  rice  around  it. 

Beef  Hash. — Chop  fine  cold  steak  or  roast  beef,  and  cook 
in  a  little  water ;  add  cream  or  milk,  and  thicken  with  flour ; 
season  to  taste,  and  pour  over  thin  slices  of  toast. 


74  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Beef  Stew. — Cut  cold  beef  into  small  pieces,  and  put  into 
cold  water ;  add  one  tomato,  a  little  onion,  chopped  fine ; 
pepper  and  salt,  and  cook  slowly ;  thicken  with  butter  and 
flour,  and  pour  over  toast. 

Boiled  Corned  Beet — Put  four  or  five  pounds  of  lean  corned 
meat  into  a  pot  with  plenty  of  water.  The  water  should  be 
hot.  The  same  care  should  be  taken  in  skimming  as  for 
fresh  meat.  Allow  half  an  hour  for  every  pound  of  meat 
after  it  has  begun  to  boil.  The  excellence  of  corned  beef 
depends  very  much  upon  its  being  boiled  gently  and  long. 
If  it  is  to  be  eaten  cold,  lay  it,  when  boiled,  into  a  coarse 
earthen  dish  or  pan,  and  over  it  a  clean  board  about  the 
size  of  the  meat ;  upon  this  put  a  heavy  weight.  Salt  meat 
is  much  improved  by  pressing. 

Stewed  Shin  of  Beef. — Wash,  and  set  it  on  to  stew  in  suffi- 
cient cold  water  to  keep  it  just  covered  until  done.  When 
it  boils,  take  off  the  scum,  and  put  an  ounce  and  a  quarter 
of  salt  to  the  gallon  of  water.  It  is  usual  to  add  a  few  cloves 
and  some  black  pepper,  slightly  bruised  and  tied  up  loosely 
in  a  fold  of  muslin,  two  or  more  onions,  a  root  of  celery,  a 
bunch  of  savory  herbs,  four  or  five  carrots,  and  as  many 
turnips,  either  whole  or  sliced ;  if  to  be  served  with  the 
meat,  the  last  two  will  require  a  little  more  than  the  ordinary 
time  of  boiling,  but  otherwise  they  may  be  simmered  with 
the  meat  from  the  beginning.  Give  the  beef  from  four  to 
five  hours'  gentle  stewing,  and  serve  it  with  part  of  its  own 
liquor  thickened  and  flavored,  or  quite  plain. 

Boiled  Tongne. — Soak  the  tongue  over  night,  then  boil  four 
or  five  hours.  Peel  off  the  outer  skin  and  return  it  to  the 
water  in  which  it  was  boiled  to  cool.  This  will  render  it 
juicy  and  tender. 

Baked  Heart — Wash  carefully  and  stuff  nicely ;  roast  or 
bake  and  serve  with  gravy,  which  should  be  thickened  with 


MEATS.  75 

some  of  the  stuffing.  It  is  very  nice  hashed,  with  a  little 
port  wine  added. 

Broiled  Beefeteak. — Have  the  choice  steaks  cut  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick ;  grease  the  gridiron  and  have  it 
well  heated.  Put  the  steak  over  a  hot,  clear  fire.  When  the 
steak  is  colored,  turn  it  over,  which  must  be  done  without 
sticking  a  fork  into  it  and  thus  letting  out  the  juice.  It 
should  be  quite  rare  or  pink  in  the  centre,  but  not  raw. 
When  cooked  sufficiently,  lay  on  a  hot  platter  and  season 
with  pepper  and  salt ;  spread  over  the  top  some  small  bits  of 
butter,  and  serve  immediately.  Salt  extracts  the  juices  of 
meats  in  cooking.  Steaks  ought  not  to  be  salted  until  they 
have  been  broiled. 

Beefsteak  with.  Onions. — Take  a  nice  rumpsteak,  and  pound 
it  with  a  rolling-pin  until  it  is  quite  tender ;  flour  and  season ; 
put  it  into  a  frying-pan  with  hot  lard  and  fry  it.  When 
well  browned  on  both  sides,  take  it  up  and  dredge  with  flour. 
Have  about  two  dozen  onions  ready  boiled ;  strain  them  in 
a  colander  and  put  them  in  a  frying-pan,  seasoning  with 
pepper  and  salt ;  dredge  in  a  little  flour,  and  add  a  small 
lump  of  butter ;  place  the  pan  over  the  fire  and  stir  the 
onions  frequently,  to  prevent  their  scorching.  When  they 
are  soft  and  a  little  brown,  return  the  steak  to  the  pan,  and 
heat  all  together.  Place  the  steak  on  a  large  dish,  pour  the 
onions  and  gravy  over  it,  and  send  to  the  table  hot. 

Beefeteak  and  Tomatoes. — Stew  a  dozen  good-sized  tomatoes 
one  hour,  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  put  in  a  pound  of 
tender  beefsteak,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  boil  fifteen  min- 
utes longer.  Lay  buttered  toast  in  a  deep  dish,  pour  on  the 
steak  and  tomato,  and  you  have  a  most  relishing  and 
healthful  dish. 

Staffed  Beefeteak — Take  a  rump  steak  about  an  inch  thick. 
Make  a  stuffing  of  bread  and  herbs,  and  spread  it  over  the 
steak.  Roll  it  up,  and  with  a  needle  and  coarse  thread  sew 


76  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

it  together.  Lay  it  in  an  iron  pot  on  one  or  two  wooden 
skewers,  and  put  in  water  just  sufficient  to  cover  it.  Let  it 
stew  slowly  for  two  hours — longer  if  the  beef  is  tough ; 
serve  it  in  a  dish  with  the  gravy  turned  over  it.  To  be 
carved  crosswise,  in  slices,  through  beef  and  stuffing. 

Beefsteak  Pudding. — Prepare  a  good  suet  crust,  and  line  a 
cake  tin  with  it;  put  in  layers  of  steak,  with  onions,  toma- 
toes and  mushrooms  chopped,  a  seasoning  of  pepper,  salt, 
and  cayenne,  and  half  a  teacupful  of  water  before  closing  it, 
Bake  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  and  serve  hot. 


II.— VEAL. 

CHOOSING  VEAL,  FOR  ROASTING,  FOR  STEWING;  THE  HEAD, 
FEET,  KIDNEYS,  SWEET-BREADS,  ETC.;  GENERAL  USEFULNESS. 
TWENTY-ONE  RECIPES  FOR  COOKING  VEAL. 

VEAL  should  be  fat,  finely  grained,  white,  firm,  and  not 
overgrown.  When  large,  it  is  apt  to  be  coarse  and  tough, 
and  if  too  young,  it  lacks  flavor  and  is  less  wholesome. 
it  is  more  difficult  to  keep  than  any  meat  except  pork,  and 
should  never  be  allowed  to  acquire  the  slightest  taint  before 
it  is  dressed. 

The  fillet,  the  loin,  the  shoulder,  and  the  best  end  of  the 
neck,  are  the  parts  preferred  for  roasting ;  the  breast  and 
knuckle  are  more  usually  stewed  or  boiled.  The  head  and 
feet  of  the  calf  are  valuable  articles  of  food,  both  for  the 
nutriment  which  the  gelatinous  parts  of  them  afford,  and  for 
the  greater  variety  of  modes  in  which  they  may  be  dressed. 
The  kidneys,  with  the  rich  fat  that  surrounds  them,  and  the 
sweet-breads  especially,  are  well-known  delicacies;  the 
liver  and  the  heart  also  are  very  good  eating ;  and  no  meat 
t*  so  generally  useful  for  rich  soups  and  gravies  as  veal. 


MEATS.  77 

The  best  veal  is  from  calves  not  less  than  four,  or  more 
than  six  weeks  old.  If  younger  it  is  not  wholesome.  If 
older  its  character  begins  to  change  materially  from  the 
calf's  use  of  grasses  and  other  food. 

RECIPES. 

Roast  Veal — Take  a  loin  or  fillet  of  veal ;  make  a  stuffing 
as  for  roast  turkey ;  fill  the  flat  with  the  stuffing,  and  sew  it 
firmly  to  the  loin ;  rub  the  veal  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour, 
and  put  it  into  a  pan  with  a  little  water.  While  roasting, 
baste  frequently,  letting  it  cook  until  thoroughly  done. 
Allow  two  hours  for  a  roast  weighing  from  six  to  eight 
pounds.  When  done,  remove  the  threads  before  sending 
to  the  table ;  thicken  the  gravy  with  a  little  flour.  Veal 
should  be  rather  overdone. 

Pot-roasted  Fillet.— Remove  the  bone  and  fill  the  cavity 
with  a  force-meat  made  of  bread-crumbs,  a  very  little  salt, 
pork  chopped  fine,  sage,  pepper,  salt,  and  ground  cloves. 
Lay  in  the  pot  a  layer  of  slices  of  salt  pork ;  put  in  the  fiL 
let,  fastened  with  skewers,  cover  with  additional  pork,  pour 
over  it  a  pint  of  good  stock,  cover  down  close,  and  let  it 
cook  slowly  two  or  three  hours ;  then  take  off  the  cover 
and  let  it  brown.  Serve  hot. 

Boiled  Fillet— A  small  and  delicately  white  fillet  should 
be  selected  for  this  purpose.  Bind  it  round  with  tape,  after 
having  washed  it  thoroughly ;  cover  it  well  with  cold  water, 
and  bring  it  gently  to  a  boil ;  clear  off  carefully  the  scum 
as  it  rises,  and  be  veiy  cautious  not  to  allow  the  water  to 
become  smoked.  Let  the  meat  be  gently  simmered  for  three 
hours  and  a  half  to  four  and  a  half,  according  to  its  weight. 
Send  it  to  table  with  rich  white  sauce. 

Veal  Stew. — Cut  four  or  five  pounds  of  veal  into  strips ; 
peel  a  dozen  large  potatoes,  and  cut  them  into  slices ;  place 
a,  layer  of  sliced  salt  pork  with  salt,  pepper,  sage,  and  onion 


78  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

on  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  then  a  layer  of  potatoes,  then  I 
layer  of  the  veal  nicely  seasoned.  Use  up  the  veal  thus, 
Over  the  last  layer  of  veal  put  a  layer  of  the  pork,  and 
over  the  whole  a  layer  of  potatoes.  Pour  in  water  till  it 
covers  the  whole ;  cover  the  pot  closely ;  heat  it  rapidly  fol 
a  few  minutes,  and  then  let  it  simmer  two  hours. 

Veal  Hash. — Take  a  teacupful  of  boiling  water  in  a  sauce- 
pan, stir  into  it  an  even  teaspoonful  of  flour  wet  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  cold  water,  and  let  it  boil  five  minutes ;  add 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  as  much  salt,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  let  it  keep  hot,  but  not  boil. 
Chop  the  veal  fine  and  mix  with  half  as  much  stale  bread- 
crumbs. Put  into  a  pan  and  pour  the  gravy  over  it,  then 
let  it  simmer  ten  minutes.  Serve  this  on  buttered  toast. 

Veal  Pie. — Line  a  pudding-dish  with  good  pie  crust ;  into 
this  put  a  layer  of  veal  cut  into  small  slices  from  the  neck, 
or  other  less  valuable  part ;  make  a  second  layer  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs  sliced  thin ;  butter  and  pepper  this  layer.  Add 
a  layer  of  sliced  ham,  or  salt  pork,  squeezing  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  juice  on  the  ham.  Add  more  veal,  as  before,  with 
eggs,  ham,  etc.,  till  the  dish  is  nearly  full.  Pour  over  a 
cupful  of  stock  and  cover  with  a  stout  crust.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  two  hours. 

Veal  Pot  Pie. — Make  a  crust  of  a  dozen  mashed  potatoes, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  teacup  of  milk  or  cream, 
a  little  salt,  and  flour  enough  to  stiffen  it  nicely.  Fry  half 
a  dozen  slices  of  salt  pork,  then  cut  up  the  veal  and  boil 
these  together,  in  but  little  water,  till  the  veal  is  almost 
done.  Peel  and  slice  a  dozen  potatoes  quite  thin,  and  roll 
the  dough  about  half  an  inch  thick  and  cut  it  into  strips. 
Now  build  in  your  pot  a  layer  of  crust,  meat,  potatoes  ;  then 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  another  set  of  layers, 
and  top  off  with  crust.  Pour  on  the  liquor  in  which  the 
weat  was  cooked,  and  let  all  simmer  for  half  an  hour,  or  until 


MEATS.  73 

the  top  crust  is  cooked.    Brown  the  crust  by  holding  over 
it  a  red-hot  shovel. 

Veal  Loa£ — Take  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  three 
pounds  of  raw  veal,  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of 
pepper,  and  two  raw  eggs.  Chop  the  veal  fine  and  mix  all 
together,  and  put  in  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water. 
Mold  this  into  a  loaf,  then  roll  it  in  eight  tablespoonfuls  of 
rolled  crackers,  and  pour  over  it  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter ;  place  in  a  pan  and  bake  two  hours.  To  be 
sliced  off  when  cold,  and  served  at  luncheon  or  tea. 

Veal  with  Oysters. — Cut  the  veal  in  small,  thin  slices,  place 
it  in  layers  in  a  jar  with  salt,  pepper,  and  oysters.  Pour  in 
the  liquor  of  the  oysters,  set  the  jar  in  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water,  and  let  it  stew  till  the  meat  becomes  very  tender. 

Veal  with  Rice. — Pour  over  a  small  knuckle  of  veal  rather 
more  than  sufficient  water  to  cover  it ;  bring  it  slowly  to  a 
boil ;  take  off  all  the  scum  with  great  care ;  throw  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  when  the  joint  has  simmered  for  about 
half  an  hour,  throw  in  from  eight  to  twelve  ounces  of  well- 
washed  rice,  and  stew  the  veal  gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half 
longer,  or  until  both  the  meat  and  rice  are  perfectly  tender. 
A  seasoning  of  cayenne  and  mace  in  fine  powder,  with  more 
salt,  should  it  be  required,  must  be  added  twenty  or  thirty 
minutes  before  they  are  served.  For  a  superior  stew,  good 
veal  broth  may  be  substituted  for  the  water. 

Veal  with  Peas. — A  quart  or  more  of  full-grown  green 
peas,  instead  of  rice,  added  to  the  veal,  prepared  as  above, 
as  soon  as  the  scum  has  been  cleared  off,  will  make  a  most 
excellent  stew.  It  should  be  well  seasoned  with  white 
pepper,  and  the  mace  should  be  omitted. 

Cutlets  in  Cracker. — Pound  the  cutlet  and  season,  cut  the 
edges  into  good  shape ;  take  one  egg,  beat  it  a  little,  roll 
the  cutlet  in  it,  then  cover  thoroughly  with  rolled  crackers. 


80  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Have  a  lump  of  butter  and  lard  mixed  hot  in  your  skillet  \ 
put  in  the  meat  and  cook  slowly.  When  nicely  browned 
stir  in  one  spoonful  of  flour  for  the  gravy ;  add  half  a  pint 
of  sweet  milk,  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil.  Salt  and  pepper. 

Cutlets,  Broiled. — Trim  evenly ;  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  on 
both  sides ;  dip  in  melted  butter,  and  place  upon  the  grid- 
iron over  a  clear  fire;  baste  while  broiling  with  melted 
butter,  turn  over  three  or  four  times ;  serve  with  melted 
butter,  or  tomato  sauce. 

Pressed  Veal. — Put  four  pounds  of  veal  in  a  pot ;  cover 
with  water ;  stew  slowly  until  the  meat  drops  from  the  bone, 
then  take  out  and  chop  fine ;  let  the  liquor  boil  down  until 
there  is  a  cupful ;  put  in  a  small  cupful  of  butter,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  a  little  allspice,  and  a  beaten  egg ;  stir 
this  through  the  meat ;  slice  a  hard-boiled  egg ;  lay  in  a 
mold,  and  press  in  the  meat ;  when  put  upon  the  table  gar- 
nish with  celery  tops  or  parsley. 

Minced  Veal. — Heat  a  cupful  of  well-thickened  gravy  to  a 
boil ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  rich  milk,  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  parsley  to  taste,  a 
small  onion,  and  three  eggs  well  beaten.  When  these  are 
stirred  in,  add  the  cold  minced  meat,  salted  and  peppered. 
Let  it  heat  thoroughly,  but  not  boil. 

Veal  Scallops. — Mince  the  meat  very  small,  and  set  it  over 
the  fire ;  season  with  grated  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt,  and  a 
little  cream.  Then  put  it  into  scallop-shells,  and  cover  with 
crumbs  of  bread,  over  which  put  bits  of  butter,  and  brown 
at  a  quick  fire.  Serve  hot,  with  catsup  or  mushroom  sauce. 

Calf's  Liver  or  Heart. — Cut  the  liver  in  slices,  plunge  into 
boiling  water  for  an  instant,  wipe  dry,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  dredge  with  flour,  and  fry  brown  in  lard.  Have  it  per- 
fectly done.  Serve  in  gravy,  made  with  either  milk  or  water. 
Calf's  heart  dressed  in  this  way  is  also  very  palatable. 


MEATS.  gj 

Broiled  Sweet-breads.— Parboil  and  blanch  the  sweet- 
breads by  putting  them  first  into  hot  water  and  keeping  it 
at  a  hard  boil  for  five  minutes,  then  plunging  it  into  ice- 
cold  water  somewhat  salted.  Allow  them  to  lie  in  this  ten 
minutes,  wipe  them  very  dry,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  split  in 
half,  lengthwise.  Broil  over  a  clear,  hot  fire,  turning  when- 
ever they  begin  to  drip.  Have  ready  upon  a  deep  plate 
melted  butter,  well  salted  and  peppered,  mixed  with  catsup 
or  Challenge  sauce.  When  the  sweet-breads  are  done  to  a 
fine  brown  lay  them  in  this  preparation,  turning  them  over 
several  times  ;  cover  and  set  them  in  a  warm  oven.  Serve 
on  fried  bread  or  toast  in  a  chafing-dish,  a  piece  of  sweet- 
bread on  each.  Pour  on  the  hot  butter  and  send  to  table. 

Stewed  Sweet-breads. — Parboil,  blanch,  and  cut  into  small 
pieces ;  boil  fifteen  minutes  in  milk ;  stir  into  this  chopped 
parsley,  a  little  butter,  and  cornstarch  to  thicken.  Serve  hot. 

Broiled  Kidneys.— Skin  the  kidneys  carefully,  but  do  not 
slice  or  split  them.  Lay  for  ten  minutes  in  warm  (ngfc  hot) 
melted  butter,  rolling  them  over  and  over,  that  every  part  may 
be  well  basted.  Broil  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  turn- 
ing them  every  minute.  Unless  very  large,  they  should  be 
done  in  about  twelve  minutes.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  lay  on  a  hot  dish,  with  butter  upon  each. 

Calf's  Tongue. — Of  all  the  tongue  preparations,  calf's 
tongue  is  regarded  as  best.  To  pickle  them,  use  for  each 
a  quarter  pound  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  saltpetre,  and  a  quar* 
ter  pound  of  sugar.  Rub  the  tongues  daily  with  this,  allow* 
ing  them  to  lie  in  pickle  for  two  weeks,  after  which  they 
will  be  ready  for  smoking  or  boiling.  If  used  without 
smoking,  they  require  no  soaking,  but  should  simmer  sev 
eral  hours  till  perfectly  done,  when  the  skin  will  peel  oft 
readily.  If  soaking  is  needed,  lay  them  first  in  cold  water 
and  then  in  tepid  water  for  two  hours  each;  then  boil  tiW 
done. 

e 


EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 


III.— MUTTON  AND  LAMB. 

CHOOSING  MUTTON  AND  LAMB,  FOR  ROASTING,  FOR  BOILING  J 
CUTLETS,  SUITABLE  VEGETABLES,  ETC.  THIRTEEN  RECIPES  FOR 
MUTTON  AND  LAMB. 

THE  best  mutton  is  small-boned,  plump,  finely  grained, 
and  short  legged ;  the  lean  of  a  dark,  rather  than  of  a 
bright  hue,  and  the  fat  white  and  clear ;  when  this  is 
yellow,  the  meat  is  rank,  and  of  bad  quality.  The  leg  and 
the  loin  are  the  desirable  joints ;  and  the  preference  would 
probably  be  given  to  the  latter,  but  for  the  superabundance 
of  its  fat,  which  renders  it  a  somewhat  wasteful  part. 

The  parts  for  roasting  are  the  shoulder,  saddle,  or  chine, 
the  loin,  and  haunch.  The  leg  is  best  boiled,  unless  the 
mutton  is  young  and  very  tender.  The  neck  is  sometimes 
roasted,  but  it  is  more  generally  boiled ;  the  scrag,  or  that 
part  of  it  which  joins  the  head,  is  seldom  used  for  any  other 
purpose  than  making  broth,  and  should  be  taken  off  before 
the  joint  is  dressed.  Cutlets  from  the  thick  end  of  the  loin 
are  commonly  preferred,  but  they  are  frequently  taken  from 
the  best  end  of  the  neck  and  from  the  middle  of  the  leg. 

Lamb  should  be  eaten  very  fresh.  In  the  fore-quarter,  the 
vein  in  the  neck  should  be  blue,  otherwise  it  is  stale.  In  the 
hind-quarter  the  fat  of  the  kidney  will  have  a  slight  odor  if 
not  quite  fresh.  Lamb  soon  loses  its  firmness  if  stale. 

New  potatoes,  asparagus,  green  peas,  and  spinach,  are  the 
vegetables  to  be  eaten  with  roast  lamb. 

RECIPES. 

Roast  Mutton. — Wash  the  meat  well,  sprinkle  with  pepper 
and  salt,  dredge  with  flour,  and  put  in  the  dripping-pan, 
with  a  little  water  in  the  bottom.  Baste  often  with  the  drip- 
pings, skim  the  gravy  well,  and  thicken  with  flour. 


MEATS.  S3 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton. — Cut  off  the  shank-bone,  trim  the 
knuckle,  and  wash  the  mutton ;  put  it  into  a  pot  with  salt, 
and  cover  with  boiling  water.  Allow  it  to  boil  a  few  min- 
utes ;  skim  the  surface  clean,  draw  your  pot  to  the  side  of  the 
fire,  and  simmer  until  done.  Time,  from  two  to  two  hours 
and  a  half.  Do  not  try  the  leg  with  a  fork  to  determine 
whether  it  is  done.  You  lose  the  juices  of  the  meat  by  so 
doing.  Serve  with  caper  sauce,  or  drawn  butter,  well  sea- 
soned. The  liquor  from  this  boiling  may  be  converted  into 
soup  with  the  addition  of  a  ham-bone  and  a  few  vegetables 
boiled  together. 

Mutton  Dressed  like  Venison.— Skin  and  bone  a  loin  of 
mutton,  and  lay  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  water,  a 
large  onion  stuck  with  a  dozen  cloves,  half  a  pint  of  port 
wine,  and  a  spoonful  of  vinegar ;  add,  when  it  boils,  a  little 
thyme  and  parsley,  and  some  pepper  and  salt ;  let  it  stew 
three  hours,  and  turn  it  often.  Make  some  gravy  of  the 
bones,  and  add  it  at  intervals  to  the  mutton. 

Broiled  Mutton  Chops.— Trim  off  a  portion  of  the  fat,  or  the 
whole  of  it,  unless  it  be  liked ;  heat  the  gridiron,  rub  it  with 
a  bit  of  the  mutton  suet,  broil  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  turn 
often  until  they  are  done,  which,  for  the  generality  of  eaters, 
will  be  in  about  eight  minutes,  if  the  chops  are  not  more 
than  half  an  inch  thick,  which  they  should  not  be.  Add 
salt  and  pepper  with  melted  butter,  and  serve  on  a  hot 
plate. 

Mutton  and  Green  Peas. — Select  a  breast  of  mutton  not  too 
fat,  cut  it  into  small,  square  pieces,  dredge  it  with  flour,  and  fry 
to  a  fine  brown  in  butter ;  add  pepper  and  salt,  cover  it  with 
water,  and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  to  stew,  until  the  meat  is 
perfectly  tender.  Take  out  the  meat,  skim  off  all  the  fat  from 
the  gravy,  and  just  before  serving  add  a  quart  of  young 
peas,  previously  boiled  with  the  strained  gravy,  and  let  the 
whole  boil  gently  until  the  peas  are  entirely  done. 


84  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Irish  Stew. — Blanch  three  pounds  of  mutton  chops  by  dip* 
ping  them  first  in  boiling  water,  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
and  then  into  ice-cold  water.  Place  them  on  the  bottom  of 
a  clean  stewpan,  barely  covering  them  with  cold  water. 
Bring  them  slowly  to  a  boil ;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt ; 
skim  clean ;  add  a  little  parsley,  mace,  and  a  few  pepper- 
corns. Simmer  twenty  minutes  ;  add  a  dozen  small  onions 
whole,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  mixed  well  with  cold 
water.  Let  it  simmer  for  an  hour ;  add  a  dozen  potatoes 
pared  and  cut  to  about  the  size  of  the  onions.  Boil  till 
these  are  done ;  then  dish,  placing  the  chops  around  the 
edge  of  the  plate,  and  pouring  the  onions  and  potatoes  into 
the  centre.  Strain  the  gravy,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  pour  over  the  stew. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Lamb. — Choose  a  ewe  leg,  as  there  is  more 
fat  on  it ;  saw  off  the  knuckle,  trim  off  the  flap,  and  the  thick 
skin  on  the  back  of  it ;  soak  in  warm  water  for  three  hours, 
then  boil  gently  (time  according  to  size).  Serve  with  oyster 
sauce.  (See  Sauces.) 

Roast  Lamb. — Wash  well,  season  with  pepper  ana  salt,  put 
in  the  dripping-pan  with  a  little  water.  Baste  often  with 
the  dripping ;  skim  the  gravy  well  and  thicken  with  flour. 

Lamb  Stewed  in  Butter. — Select  a  nice  loin,  wash  well,  and 
wipe  very  dry ;  skewer  down  the  flap,  and  lay  it  in  a  close-shut- 
ting and  thick  stewpan,  or  saucepan,  in  which  three  ounces 
of  good  butter  have  been  just  dissolved,  but  not  allowed  to 
boil ;  let  it  simmer  slowly  over  a  very  gentle  fire  for  two 
hours  and  a  quarter,  and  turn  it  when  it  is  rather  more  than, 
half  done.  Lift  it  out,  skim,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  it; 
send  to  table  with  brown  gravy,  mint  sauce,  and  a  salad. 

Saddle  of  Lamb. — This  is  a  dainty  joint  for  a  small  party. 
Sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  it,  and  set  it  in  the  dripping-pan, 
With  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  meat;  baste  it 


JIB  ATS.  35 

occasionally  with  tried-out  lamb-fat;  dredge  a  little  flour 
over  it  a  few  minutes  before  taking  from  the  oven.  Serve 
with  currant  jelly  and  a  few  choice  early  vegetables.  Mint- 
sauce  may  be  served  with  the  joint,  but  in  a  very  mild  form. 
(See  Sauces.) 

Broiled  Lamb  Chops.— Trim  off  most  of  the  fat ;  broil  over 
a  brisk  fire,  turning  frequently  until  the  chops  are  nicely 
browned.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  baste  with  hot 
butter.  Serve  on  a  buttered  dish. 

Breaded  Lamb  Chops.— Grate  plenty  of  stale  bread,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  have  ready  some  well-beaten  egg,  have 
a  spider  with  hot  lard  ready,  take  the  chops  one  by  one,  dip 
into  the  egg,  then  into  the  bread-crumbs ;  repeat  it,  as  this 
will  be  found  an  improvement;  then  lay  the  chops  sep- 
arately into  the  boiling  lard,  fry  brown,  and  then  turn.  To 
be  eaten  with  currant  jelly. 

Lamb  Steaks,  Fried. — Dip  each  steak  into  well-beaten  egg, 
cover  with  bread-crumbs  or  corn-meal,  and  fry  in  butter  or 
new  lard.  Mashed  potatoes  and  boiled  rice  are  a  necessary 
accompaniment.  The  gravy  may  be  thickened  with  flour 
and  butter,  adding  a  little  lemon  juice ;  pour  this  hot  upon 
the  steaks,  and  place  the  rice  in  spoonfuls  around  the  dish 
to  garnish  it. 


IV.— PORK. 

PORK    REQUIRES    CAREFUL    CHOOSING;     NEEDS    THOROUGH    COOk« 
ING.       NINETEEN   RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   PORK. 

T^ORK,  more  than  any  other  meat,  requires  to  be  chosen 
with  the  greatest  care.     The  pig,  from  its  gluttonous 
habits,  is  particularly  liable  to  disease,  and  if  killed 
and  eaten  when  in  an  unhealthy  condition,  those  who  par- 
take of  it  will  probably  pay  dearly  for  their  indulgencCi 
Dairy-fed  pork  is  the  best. 


86  EVERY    WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

If  this  meat  be  not  thoroughly  well-done,  it  is  disgusting 
to  the  sight  and  poisonous  to  the  stomach.  "  In  the  gravy 
of  pork,  if  there  is  the  least  tint  of  redness,"  says  an  emi- 
nent medical  authority,  "  it  is  enough  to  appall  the  sharpest 
appetite.  Other  meats  under-done  may  be  unpleasant,  but 
pork  is  absolutely  uneatable." 

RECIPES. 

Roast  Pig. — A  fat  pig  about  three  weeks  old  is  best  for  a 
roast.  Wash  it  thoroughly  inside  and  out ;  chop  the  liver 
fine  with  bread-crumbs,  onions,  parsley,  pepper,  salt,  and 
potatoes  boiled  and  mashed ;  make  it  into  a  paste  with  but- 
ter and  egg.  Put  this  stuffing  into  the  pig  and  sew  it  up ; 
put  in  a  baking-pan  with  a  little  water  and  roast  over  a 
bright  fire,  basting  well  with  butter;  rub  frequently  also 
with  a  piece  of  lard  tied  in  a  clean  rag.  When  thoroughly 
done,  lay  the  pig,  back  up,  in  a  dish,  and  put  a  red  apple  or 
pickled-mango  in  its  mouth.  Make  a  dressing  with  some 
of  the  stuffing,  with  a  glass  of  wine  and  some  of  the  drip- 
ping. Serve  with  the  roast  pig,  and  also  in  a  gravy-boat. 

Roast  Pork. — Choose  for  roasting,  the  loin,  the  leg,  the 
saddle,  the  fillet,  the  shoulder,  or  the  spare-rib.  The  loin 
of  young  pork  is  roasted  with  the  skin  on,  and  this  should 
be  scored  in  regular  strips  of  about  a  quarter  inch  wide 
before  the  joints  are  laid  to  the  fire.  The  skin  of  the  leg 
also  should  be  cut  through  in  the  same  manner.  This  will 
prevent  blistering,  and  render  it  more  easy  to  carve.  In 
beginning  the  roasting  the  meat  should  be  placed  at  some 
distance  from  the  fire,  in  order  that  it  may  be  heated  through 
before  the  skin  hardens.  The  basting  should  be  constant. 
The  cooking  must  be  thorough  and  the  meat  well-browned 
before  removed  from  the  fire. 

Roast  Spare-rib. — Spare-rib  should  be  well  rubbed  with 
and  pepper  before  it  is  roasted.     If  large  and  thick,  it 


MEATS.  gf 

•f 

will  require  two  or  three  hours  to  roast ;  a  very  thin  piece 
may  be  roasted  in  an  hour.  Lay  the  thick  end  to  the  fire. 
When  you  put  it  down  to  roast,  dust  on  some  flour,  and 
baste  with  a  little  butter.  The  shoulder,  loin,  and  chine  are 
roasted  in  the  same  manner. 

Leg  of  Pork  Roasted.— Parboil  a  leg  of  pork,  take  off  the 
skin,  and  then  roast ;  baste  with  butter,  and  make  a  savory 
powder  of  finely  minced  or  dried  or  powdered  sage,  ground 
black  pepper,  salt,  and  some  bread-crumbs  rubbed  together 
through  a  colander ;  add  to  this  a  little  very  finely  minced 
onion ;  sprinkle  the  meat  with  this  when  it  is  almost  done ; 
put  a  half  pint  of  gravy  into  the  dish. 

Baked  Pork  Tenderloins. — Split  the  tenderloin  lengthwise 
nearly  through ;  stuff  with  a  filling  of  bread-crumbs,  pep- 
per, salt,  and  sweet  marjoram.  Tie  a  string  around  it,  to 
keep  the  filling  in,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  half  an  hour, 
basting  well  as  the  cooking  proceeds. 

Pork  Cutlets. — Cut  them  about  half  an  inch  thick  from  a 
delicate  loin  of  pork,  trim  into  neat  form,  and  take  off  part 
of  the  fat,  or  the  whole  of  it  when  it  is  not  liked ;  dredge  a 
little  pepper  or  cayume  upon  them,  and  broil  (or  fry)  over 
a  clear  and  moderate  fire  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  minutes, 
sprinkle  a  little  fine  salt  upon  them  just  before  they  are 
dished.  They  may  be  dipped  into  egg  and  then  into  bread- 
crumbs mixed  with  minced  sage,  then  finished  in  the  usual 
way.  When  fried,  flour  them  well,  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Serve  with  gravy  made  in  the  pan. 

Boiled  Ham. — The  soaking  which  must  be  given  to  a  ham 
before  it  is  boiled  depends  both  on  the  manner  in  which  it 
has  been  cured  and  on  its  age.  If  highly  salted,  hard,  and 
old,  a  day  and  night,  or  even  longer,  may  be  requisite  to 
open  the  pores  sufficiently  and  to  extract  a  portion  of  the 
salt.  The  water  must  be  several  times  changed  during  the 
steeping.  After  the  ham  has  been  scraped  or  brushed  as 


88  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

clean  as  possible,  pare  away  lightly  any  part  which  may  b« 
blackened  or  rusty.  Lay  it  into  a  suitable  kettle  and  cover 
it  plentifully  with  cold  water ;  bring  it  very  slowly  to  boil, 
and  clear  off  the  scum,  which  will  be  thrown  up  in  great 
abundance  So  soon  as  the  water  has  been  cleared  from 
this,  draw  the  pot  to  the  edge  of  the  stove,  that  the  ham 
may  be  simmered  slowly  but  steadily,  until  it  is  tender.  On 
no  account  allow  it  to  boil  fast.  When  it  can  be  probed 
very  easily  with  a  sharp  skewer,  lift  it  out,  strip  off  the  skin, 
and  return  the  ham  to  the  water  to  cool. 

Baked  Ham. — A  ham  of  sixteen  pounds  must  be  boiled 
three  hours,  then  skin  and  rub  in  half  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar,  cover  with  bread-crumbs,  and  bake  well  for  two 
hours. 

Glazed  Ham. — Take  a  cold-boiled  ham  from  which  the  skin 
has  been  removed,  and  brush  it  well  all  over  with  beaten 
egg.  To  a  cup  of  powdered  cracker  allow  enough  rich 
milk  or  cream  to  make  into  a  thick  paste,  salt  it,  and  work 
in  a  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter.  Spread  this  evenly,  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  over  the  ham,  and  set  to  brown  in 
a  moderate  oven. 

Ham  and  Eggs.— Cut  the  ham  in  very  thin  slices,  and  fry 
long  enough  to  cook  the  fat,  but  not  long  enough  to  crisp 
the  lean.  A  very  little  boiling  water  may  be  put  into  the 
frying-pan  to  secure  the  ham  moist  and  tender.  Remove 
the  ham  when  it  is  done,  break  eggs  gently  into  the  pan, 
without  breaking  the  yelks,  and  fry  till  done,  about  three 
minutes.  The  eggs  will  not  require  to  be  turned.  Cut  off 
the  uneaven  edges,  place  the  eggs  around  the  ham,  and  pour 
in  the  gravy. 

Ham  or  Tongue  Toast. — Toast  a  thick  slice  of  bread  and 
butter  it  on  both  sides.  Take  a  small  quantity  of  remains 
of  ham  or  tongue,  grate  it,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  two 


MEATS.  89 

hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  fine,  and  mixed  with  a  little  but- 
ter, salt,  and  cayenne ;  heat  it  quite  hot,  then  spread  thickly 
upon  the  buttered  toast.  Serve  while  hot. 

Broiled  Salt  Pork. — Cut  the  pork  in  thin  slices.  Put  a  lit- 
tle water  in  the  pan,  and  when  it  has  boiled  three  minutes 
pour  it  off;  dredge  the  pork  with  flour  and  brown  it. 

Bacon  Broiled  or  Fried. — Cut  evenly  into  thin  slices,  or  rash- 
ers; pare  from  them  all  rind  and  rust;  curl  them  round; 
fasten  them  with  small,  slight  skewers,  then  gently  fry,  broil, 
or  toast  them ;  draw  out  the  skewers  before  they  are  sent  to 
table.  A  few  minutes  will  dress  them  either  way.  They 
may  be  cooked  without  being  curled.  The  slow  cooking  is 
necessary  that  the  meat  may  be  well  done  without  being 
dried  or  hardened. 

Fried  Sausage. — Sausages  should  be  used  while  quite  fresh. 
Melt  a  piece  of  butter  or  dripping  in  a  clean  frying-pan ; 
when  just  melted,  put  in  the  sausages,  shake  the  pan  for  a 
minute,  and  keep  turning  them ;  do  not  break  or  prick 
them ;  fry  them  over  a  very  slow  fire  till  they  are  nicely 
browned ;  when  done,  lay  them  on  a  hair-sieve  before  the 
fire  to  drain  the  fat  from  them.  The  secret  of  cooking  sau- 
sages well  is  to  let  them  heat  very  gradually.  If  so  done 
the  skins  will  not  burst  if  they  are  fresh.  The  common 
practice  of  pricking  them  lets  the  gravy  out,  which  is  un- 
desirable. 

Baked  Sausages. — The  most  wholesome  way  to  cook  sau- 
sages is  to  bake  them.  Place  them  in  a  baking-pan  in  a 
single  layer,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven ;  turn  them  over 
when  half  done,  that  they  may  be  equally  browned.  Serve 
with  pieces  of  toast  between  them,  having  cut  the  toast 
about  the  same  size  as  the  sausage,  and  moistened  it  with  a 
little  of  the  sausage  fat. 

Sausage  Meat — Many  prefer  to  use  sausage  meat  in  bulk. 


90  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Small  portions  of  the  meat  should  be  packed  lightly  b> 
gether  and  fried  slowly  until  nicely  browned.  When  done, 
drain  through  a  hair-sieve.  Do  not  pack  hard.  It  will 
make  the  sausages  tough. 

Scrappel. — Boil  a  hog's  head  one  day,  and  let  it  stand  five 
or  six  hours,  or  all  night.  Slip  out  the  bones  and  chop 
fine ;  then  return  the  meat  to  the  liquor ;  skim  when  cold ; 
warm  and  season  freely  with  pepper,  salt,  sage,  and  sweet 
herbs.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  buckwheat-meal  and  one  cup- 
ful of  corn-meal.  Put  into  molds,  and  when  cold  cut  into 
slices  and  fry  for  breakfast. 

Boiled  Pork — The  shoulder  or  leg  are  regarded  as  the 
most  economical  pieces  for  boiling.  They  should  be  well 
salted  first,  by  about  ten  days'  pickling.  Boil  precisely  as 
ham  is  boiled,  but  not  for  so  long  a  time,  about  three  hours 
sufficing  to  thoroughly  cook  an  ordinary  sized  leg  of  pork. 
After  it  has  come  to  the  boiling  point,  let  the  process  pro- 
ceed slowly  as  possible.  Peel  off  the  skin  when  done  and 
spot  the  surface  with  dashes  of  red  and  black  pepper,  or 
with  allspice,  or  garnish  with  parsley. 

Souse. — Pigs'  feet  and  ears  may  be  soused  by  cleaning 
thoroughly,  soaking  in  salt  and  water  several  days,  and  then 
boiling  till  the  bones  can  be  picked  out  with  ease  and  the 
skin  peeled  off.  Cover  the  meat  and  gelatinous  substance 
with  boiling  vinegar,  highly  spiced  with  peppercorns  and 
mace.  This  may  be  eaten  cold  or  the  meat  may  be  fried 
after  dipping  in  egg  and  cracker. 

Pig's  head  may  be  prepared  the  same  way,  the  meat  being 
chopped  fine  and  mixed  with  pounded  crackers.  Mix  with 
herbs,  spices,  salt,  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  vinegar.  Press  into  a  mold,  or  a  jar,  and  cut  in  slices. 
To  be  eaten  cold. 


VI.— VEGETABLES. 

rEGETABLES  SHOULD  BE  FRESH — HOW  TO  WASH  AND  PRESERVE-- 
HOW  TO  COOK  WELL,  AND  IMPORTANCE  OF  SO  DOING — SUITABLE 
POTS  FOR  COOKING  VEGETABLES — VEGETABLES  SUITABLE  TO 
CERTAIN  MEATS.  FIFTY-FIVE  RECIPES  FOR  COOKING  VEGETABLES. 

ALL  vegetables  should  be  used  when  fresh  as  possible. 
Wash  them  thoroughly,  and  allow  them  to  lie  in  cold 
water  until  ready  to  be  used. 

Great  care  must  be  taken  to  remove  gravel  and  insects 
from  heads  of  lettuce,  cabbage,  and  cauliflower.  To  do 
this,  lay  them  for  half  an  hour  or  more  in  a  pan  of  strong 
brine,  placing  the  stalk  ends  uppermost.  This  will  destroy 
the  small  snails  and  other  insects  which  cluster  in  the 
leaves,  and  they  will  fall  out  and  sink  to  the  bottom. 

Strong-flavored  vegetables,  like  turnips,  cabbage,  and 
greens,  require  to  be  put  into  a  large  quantity  of  water. 
More  delicate  vegetables,  such  as  peas,  asparagus,  etc., 
require  less  water.  As  a  rule,  in  boiling  vegetables,  let  the 
water  boil  before  putting  them  in,  and  let  it  continue  to 
boil  until  they  are  done.  Nothing  is  more  indigestible  than 
vegetables  not  thoroughly  cooked.  Just  when  they  arc 
done  must  be  ascertained  to  a  certainty  in  each  particular 
case,  without  depending  upon  any  general  directions. 

Never  let  boiled  vegetables  stand  in  the  water  after  com* 
ing  off  the  fire ;  put  them  instantly  into  a  colander  over  a 
pot  of  boiling  water,  and  let  them  remain  there,  if  you  have 
to  keep  them  back  from  the  table. 

An  iron  pot  will  spoil  the  color  of  the  finest  greeks ;  they 
should  be  boiled  by  themselves  in  a  tin,  brass,  or  copper 
vessel. 


92  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Potatoes  are  good  with  all  meats.  Carrots,  parsnips,  tur- 
nips, greens,  and  cabbage  belong  with  boiled  meats ;  beets, 
peas,  and  beans  are  appropriate  to  either  boiled  or  roast. 

RECIPES. 

Boiled  White  Potatoes. — Peel  off  a  strip  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  wide,  lengthwise,  around  each  potato.  Put  them 
on  in  cold  water,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  it.  Let  them 
boil  fifteen  minutes,  then  pour  off  half  the  water  and  replace 
it  with  cold  water.  When  the  edge  of  the  peel  begins  to 
curl  up  they  are  done.  Remove  them  from  the  pot,  cover 
the  bottom  of  a  baking-tin  with  them,  place  them  in  the 
oven,  with  a  towel  over  them,  for  fifteen  minutes,  leaving 
the  oven  door  open.  Then  serve  with  or  without  the  skins. 

The  use  of  cold  water  in  boiling  potatoes,  as  in  this  recipe, 
is  exceptional.  Hot  water  is  generally  used,  but  for  this 
purpose  cold  seems  preferable. 

Roasted  WMte  Potatoes.— Select  the  largest  and  finest 
potatoes  for  roasting.  Wash  them  thoroughly  and  put  in 
the  oven  with  their  skins  on.  Roast  about  one  hour,  turn- 
ing them  occasionally  with  a  fork.  When  done,  send  them 
to  the  table  hot,  and  in  their  skins. 

Potatoes  Roasted  with  Meats. — To  roast  potatoes  with  beef, 
poultry,  and  other  meats,  peel  the  potatoes,  lay  them  in  a 
pan,  and  cook  them  in  the  gravy.  It  is  quite  proper  to 
roast  both  white  and  sweet  of  potatoes  in  the  same  pan. 

Mashed  Potatoes. — Steam  or  boil  pared  potatoes  until  soft, 
in  salted  water ;  pour  off  the  water  and  let  them  drain  per- 
fectly dry ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  mash ;  have  ready  hot 
milk  or  cream,  in  which  has  been  melted  a  piece  of  butter ; 
pour  this  on  the  potatoes,  and  stir  until  white  and  very  light. 
A  solid,  heavy  masher  is  not  desirable.  An  open  wire  tool 
is  much  better. 


VEGETABLES.  S3 

Stewed  Potatoes. — Take  sound  raw  potatoes,  and  divide 
each  into  four  parts,  or  more,  if  they  be  very  large.  Put 
them  into  the  stewpan;  add  salt,  pepper,  and  a  piece  of 
fresh  butter;  pour  in  milk,  with  a  little  cream,  just  to  keep 
the  potatoes  from  burning.  Cover  the  saucepan,  and  allow 
the  potatoes  to  stew  until  thoroughly  soft  and  tender. 

Fried  Potatoes. — Boil  some  good  and  large  potatoes  until 
nearly  done;  set  them  aside  a  few  minutes;  when  suffi- 
ciently cool,  slice  or  chop  them  ;  sprinkle  them  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  fry  in  butter  or  fresh  lard  until  they  are  of  a 
light  brown  color.  Serve  hot. 

Saratoga  Potatoes. — Peel  and  slice  the  potatoes  on  a  slaw- 
cutter,  into  cold  water ;  wash  them  thoroughly,  and  drain ; 
spread  between  the  folds  of  a  clean  cloth,  rub  and  pat  until 
dry.  Fry  a  few  at  a  time  in  boiling  lard ;  salt  as  you  take 
them  out.  Saratoga  potatoes  are  very  nice  when  eaten  cold. 
They  can  be  prepared  three  or  four  hours  before  needed, 
and  if  kept  in  a  warm  place  they  will  be  crisp  and  nice. 
They  may  be  used  for  garnishing  game  and  steaks. 

Potato  Cakes. — Mash  thoroughly  a  lot  of  potatoes  just 
boiled ;  add  a  little  salt,  butter  and  cream ;  fry  brown  on 
both  sides,  after  making  into  little  cakes. 

Boiled  Sweet  Potatoes. — Take  large,  fine  potatoes,  wash 
clean ;  boil  with  the  skins  on  in  plenty  of  water,  but  without 
salt.  They  will  take  at  least  one  hour.  Drain  off  the  water, 
and  set  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  tin  pan  before  the  fire, 
or  in  the  oven,  that  they  may  be  well  dried.  Peel  them  be- 
fore sending  to  the  table. 

Roasted  Sweet  Potatoes. — Sweet  potatoes  are  roasted  in  the 
same  manner  as  white,  but  they  require  a  little  longer  time. 

Fried  Sweet  Potatoes. — Choose  large  potatoes,  half  boil 
them,  and  then,  having  taken  off  the  skins,  cut  the  potatoes 
in  slices  and  fry  in  butter,  or  in  nice  drippings. 


94  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Stewed  Tomatoes. — Pour  boiling  water  on  the  tomatoes  to 
be  used,  and  then  peel  and  slice  them.  Stew  them  gently, 
without  adding  any  water,  fifteen  minutes ;  then  add  some 
pulverized  cracker  or  bread  crumbs,  sufficient  to  thicken  it 
a  little,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  your  taste.  Stew  fifteen  min- 
utes longer,  and  add  a  large  piece  of  butter. 

The  thickening  suggested  is  not  essential.  Many  prefer 
the  pure  tomatoes.  Try  both  ways  and  adopt  the  more 
pleasing. 

Broiled  Tomatoes. — Cut  large  tomatoes  in  two,  from  side  to 
side,  not  from  top  to  bottom ;  place  them  on  a  gridiron,  the 
cut  surface  down ;  when  well  seared,  turn  them  and  put  on 
butter,  salt,  and  pepper  ;  then  cook  with  the  skin  side  down 
until  done. 

Fried  Tomatoes. — Cut  the  tomatoes  in  slices  without  skin- 
ning ;  pepper  and  salt  them  well ;  then  sprinkle  a  little  flour 
over  them  and  fry  in  butter  until  browned.  Put  them  on  a 
hot  platter ;  then  pour  milk  or  cream  into  the  butter  and 
juice,  and  when  this  is  boiling  hot,  pour  it  over  the  tomatoes, 

Tomatoes  Baked  Whole. — Select  a  number  of  sound,  ripe 
tomatoes.  Cut  a  round  hole  in  the  stem  side  of  each,  and 
stuff  it  with  bread-crumbs,  nicely  peppered  and  salted ;  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  the  tomatoes,  the  opened  side 
upward ;  put  in  a  very  little  water,  dredge  with  flour,  and 
bake  till  brown.  Serve  hot. 

Baked  Sliced  Tomatoes. — Skin  the  tomatoes,  slice  in  small 
pieces ;  spread  a  thick  layer  in  the  bottom  of  a  pudding 
dish ;  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  bread-crumbs,  and  sprinkle 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter  over  them  ; 
add  another  layer  of  tomatoes,  then  of  crumbs,  etc.,  until 
the  dish  is  filled ;  sprinkle  over  the  top  a  layer  of  fine  rolled 
crackers  ;  bake  one  hour.  Canned  tomatoes,  put  up  whole; 
may  be  used  nicely  this  way. 


VEGETABLES.  95 

Tomatoes  a  la  Creme. — Pare  and  slice  ripe  tomatoes ;  one 
pound  of  fresh  ones  or  a  quart  can ;  stew  until  perfectly 
smooth,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  piece  of  but- 
ter the  size  of  an  egg.  Just  before  taking  from  the  fire,  stii 
in  one  cup  of  cream,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  stirred 
smooth  in  a  part  of  it ;  do  not  let  it  boil  after  the  flour  is  put 
in.  Have  ready  in  a  dish  some  pieces  of  toast ;  pour  the 
tomatoes  over  this  and  serve. 

Boiled  Green  Corn. — Take  off  the  outside  leaves  and  the 
silk,  letting  the  innermost  leaves  remain  on  until  after  the 
corn  is  boiled,  which  renders  the  corn  much  sweeter.  Boil 
for  half  an  hour  in  plenty  of  water,  drain,  and  after  fully  re- 
moving the  leaves,  serve. 

Baked  Corn. — Grate  one  dozen  ears  of  sweet  corn,  one  cup 
of  milk,  a  small  piece  of  butter ;  salt  to  taste,  and  bake  in  a 
pudding  dish  for  one  hour. 

Corn  Fritters,  see  Fritters. 

Lima  Beans. — Shell,  wash,  and  put  into  boiling  water; 
when  boiled  tender,  drain  and  season  them.  Dress  with 
cream,  or  with  a  large  lump  of  butter,  and  let  the  whole 
simmer  for  a  few  moments  before  serving. 

Snccotash. — Take  ten  ears  of  green  corn  and  one  pint  of 
Lima  beans ;  cut  the  corn  from  the  cob,  and  stew  gently 
with  the  beans  until  tender.  Use  as  little  water  as  possible. 
Season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper — milk,  if  you  choose. 
If  a  few  of  the  cobs  are  stewed  in  the  succotash,  it  will 
improve  the  flavor,  as  there  is  great  sweetness  in  the  cob. 

String  Beans. — Remove  the  strings  of  the  beans  with  a 
knife,  and  cut  off  both  ends.  Cut  each  bean  into  three 
pieces,  boil  tender,  add  butter  when  they  are  done,  pepper 
and  salt,  and  serve  hot. 

Boiled  Beans. — Dried  beans  must  soak  over  night  in  soft 
water ;  put  them  in  a  strong  bag,  leaving  room  for  them  to 


96  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

swell ;  let  them  boil  in  a  plenty  of  water  until  done ;  hang 
up  the  bag  that  all  the  water  may  drain  off;  then  season 
with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt  to  the  taste. 

Baked  Beans. — Put  the  beans  to  soak  early  in  the  evening, 
in  a  dish  that  will  allow  plenty  of  water  to  be  used.  Change 
the  water  at  bed-time.  Next  morning  early,  parboil  two 
hours ;  pour  off  nearly  all  the  water ;  take  raw  pork,  scored 
on  top ;  put  the  beans  in  a  deep  dish,  a  stoneware  jar  is  very 
nice,  the  pork  in  the  middle,  sinking  it  so  as  to  have  it  just 
level  with  the  surface.  Add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  molasses,  and  bake  at  least  six  hours.  As 
the  beans  bake  dry,  add  more  water,  a  little  at  a  time,  until 
the  last  hour,  when  it  is  not  necessary  to  moisten  them. 

Boiled  Green  Peas. — The  peas  should  be  young  and  freshly 
shelled ;  wash  and  drain  them  carefully ;  put  them  into  fast- 
boiling,  salted  water ;  when  quite  tender  drain,  and  add  pep- 
per, butter,  and  a  little  milk.  Serve  hot. 

Boiled  Asparagus. — Scrape  the  stems  of  the  asparagus 
lightly,  but  make  them  very  clean,  throwing  them  into  cold 
water  as  you  proceed.  When  all  are  scraped,  tie  them  in 
bunches  of  equal  size ;  cut  the  hard  ends  evenly,  that  all 
may  be  of  the  same  length,  and  put  into  boiling  water. 
Prepare  several  slices  of  delicately  browned  toast  half  an 
inch  thick.  When  the  stalks  are  tender,  lift  them  out  and 
season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Dip  the  toast  quickly  into  the 
liquor  in  which  the  asparagus  was  boiled,  and  dish  the  veg- 
etable upon  it,  the  points,  or  the  butts,  meeting  in  the  cen^ 
tre  of  the  dish.  Pour  rich  melted  butter  over  it,  and  send 
to  the  table  hot. 

Boiled  Beets. — Wash,  but  do  not  cut  them,  as  cutting  de^ 
stroys  the  sweetness ;  let  them  boil  from  two  to  three  hours, 
or  until  they  are  perfectly  tender ;  then  take  them  up,  peel 
and  slice  them,  and  pour  vinegar,  or  melted  butter,  over 
them,  as  may  be  preferred. 


VEGETABLES.  97 

Boiled  Turnips. — Pare  and  cut  into  pieces ;  put  them  into 
boiling  water  well  salted,  and  boil  until  tender ;  drain  thor- 
oughly and  then  mash  and  add  a  piece  of  butter,  pepper, 
and  salt  to  taste.  Stir  until  they  are  thoroughly  mixed,  and 
serve  hot. 

Boiled  Onions. — Skin  them  carefully  and  put  them  to  boil ; 
when  they  have  boiled  a  few  minutes,  pour  off  the  water, 
add  clean  cold  water,  and  then  set  them  to  boil  again. 
Pour  this  away  also,  and  add  more  cold  water,  when  they 
may  boil  till  done.  This  change  of  waters  will  make  them 
white  and  clear,  and  very  mild  in  flavor.  After  they  are 
done,  pour  off  all  the  water,  and  dress  with  a  little  cream, 
salt,  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Pried  Onions. — Peel  and  slice  fresh,  solid  onions  very 
evenly,  then  fry  them  in  a  pan  of  hot  butter  till  slightly 
browned. 

Boiled  Leeks. — Trim  off  the  coarser  leaves  of  young  leeks, 
cut  them  into  equal  lengths,  tie  them  in  small  bunches,  and 
boil  in  plenty  of  water,  previously  salted.  Serve  on  toast, 
and  send  melted  butter  to  the  table  with  them. 

Boiled  Squash. — Remove  the  seeds ;  boil  till  very  tender ; 
then  press  out  all  the  water  through  a  colander,  and  mash, 
with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt. 

Pried  Squash. — Pare  the  squash,  cut  in  slices,  dip  in  egg 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  then  into  cracker  dust,  and 
fry  to  a  nice  brown. 

Boiled  Parsnips, — Scrape  thoroughly,  then  wash  and  boil 
in  a  little  water  well  salted.  When  done,  dress  with  butter 
and  a  little  pepper,  or  drawn  butter,  if  desired. 

Fried  Parsnips. — Having  boiled  your  parsnips,  split  open 
the  largest  ones,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  dredge  a  little 
flour  over  them,  and  fry  to  a  light  brown,  j 
7 


98  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Pried  Implant — Pare  and  cut  in  slices  quarter  of  an  incli 
thick ;  sprinkle  with  salt ;  cover  and  let  stand  for  an  hour. 
Pour  off  the  juice  or  water  which  exudes ;  wipe  each  slice 
dry ;  dip  first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  rolled  cracker  or  bread 
crumbs.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry  brown  in  but- 
ter. Serve  very  hot. 

Pried  Egg-plant  No.  2. — Put  into  water  and  boil  until  soft, 
then  cut  in  two  and  scoop  out  all  the  inside ;  season ;  take 
a  tablespoonful  of  the  remaining  pulp  at  a  time,  dip  in  egg 
and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  lard.  Serve  hot. 

Baked  Egg-plant — Boil  them  till  somewhat  tender,  in  order 
to  remove  the  bitter  flavor.  Then  slit  each  one  down  the 
side,  and  take  out  the  seeds.  Have  ready  a  stuffing  made 
of  grated  cracker,  butter,  minced  herbs,  salt,  pepper,  nut- 
meg, and  beaten  yelk  of  eggs.  Fill  with  this  the  cavity  left 
by  the  seeds,  and  bake  the  plants  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  with 
well-seasoned  gravy  poured  around  them  in  the  dish. 

Boiled  Cabbage. — Strip  off  the  loose  or  withered  leaves,  and 
wash  well ;  then  split  in  two,  or  if  the  head  be  very  large, 
into  four  pieces,  and  put  into  boiling  water  with  some  salt ; 
let  it  boil  slowly,  skimming  carefully  and  frequently.  When 
done,  strain  through  a  colander.  Serve  in  a  vegetable-dish 
and  lay  inside,  among  the  leaves,  some  bits  of  butter ;  sea- 
son with  pepper,  and  serve  while  hot. 

Boiled  Cauliflower. — Trim  off  all  the  outside  leaves ;  wrap 
in  a  cloth  and  put  into  boiling  water  well  salted ;  boil  until 
tender,  and  then  serve  with  drawn  butter. 

Cabbage  a  la  Cauliflower. — Cut  the  cabbage  fine,  as  for 
slaw ;  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  cover  with  water,  and  keep 
closely  covered ;  when  tender,  drain  off  the  water ;  put  in  a 
small  piece  of  butter,  with  a  little  salt,  one-half  a  cupful  of 
cream,  or  one  cupful  of  milk.  Leave  on  the  stove  a  few 
minutes  before  serving. 


VEGETABLES.  99 

Boiled  Spinach. — Boil  the  spinach  in  plenty  of  water,  drain, 
and  press  the  moisture  from  it ;  chop  it  small,  put  it  into  a 
clean  saucepan,  with  a  slice  of  fresh  butter,  and  stir  the 
whole  until  well  mixed  and  very  hot.  Smooth  it  in  a  dish, 
and  send  it  quickly  to  table. 

Boiled  Greens. — Turnip-tops,  mustard-tops,  cabbage-leaves, 
beet-tops,  cowslips,  dandelions,  and  various  similar  articles 
are  much  relished  in  the  spring,  boiled  in  salt  and  water  or 
with  salt  pork.  When  done  sufficiently  they  will  sink  to 
the  bottom. 

Stewed  Celery. — Clean  the  heads  thoroughly ;  take  off  the 
coarse,  green,  outer  leaves ;  cut  the  stalks  into  small  pieces, 
and  stew  in  a  little  broth ;  when  tender,  add  some  rich 
cream,  a  little  flour,  and  butter  enough  to  thicken  the 
cream.  Season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  if 
that  is  agreeable. 

Boiled  Artichokes. — Soak  the  artichokes  and  wash  them  in 
several  waters ;  cut  the  stalks  even ;  trim  away  the  lower 
leaves,  and  the  ends  of  the  other  leaves;  boil  in  salted 
water  with  the  tops  downward,  and  let  them  remain  until 
the  leaves  can  be  easily  drawn  out.  Before  serving,  remove 
the  surrounding  leaves,  and  send  the  remainder  to  the  table 
with  melted  butter. 

Broiled  Mushrooms. — In  order  to  test  mushrooms,  sprinkle 
salt  on  the  gills  ;  if  they  turn  yellow,  they  are  poisonous ;  if 
they  turn  black,  they  are  good.  When  satisfied  at  this 
point,  pare,  and  cut  off  the  stems,  dip  them  in  melted  butter, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  broil  them  on  both  sides  over 
a  clear  fire,  and  serve  on  toast. 

Stewed  Mushrooms. — Being  sure  you  have  the  genuine 
mushrooms,  put  them  in  a  small  saucepan,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  add  a  spoonful  of  butter  and  a  spoonful  or 
two  of  gravy  from  roast  meat,  or,  if  this  be  not  at  hand,  the 


100  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

same  quantity  of  good,  rich  cream ;  shake  them  about  over 
the  fire,  and  when  they  boil  they  are  done. 

Boiled  Bice. — Wash  a  cupful  of  rice  in  two  or  three 
waters ;  let  it  lie  for  a  few  minutes  in  the  last  water,  then 
put  it  into  three  quarts  of  fast-boiling  water,  with  a  little 
salt ;  let  it  boil  twenty  minutes,  then  turn  into  a  colander, 
drain,  and  serve,  using  such  sauce  or  dressing  as  may  be 
desired. 

Boiled  Hominy. — Soak  one  cupful  of  fine  hominy  over 
night  in  three  cupfuls  of  water,  and  salt  to  taste ;  in  the 
morning  turn  it  into  a  quart  pail ;  then  put  the  pail  into  a 
kettle  of  boiling  water,  cover  tightly,  and  steam  one  hour ; 
add  one  teacupful  of  sweet  milk,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes 
additional,  then  serve  hot. 

Stewed  Macaroni. — Break  the  macaroni  into  small  pieces, 
wash  it,  and  put  into  salted  hot  water ;  cook  about  twenty 
minutes;  drain,  and  put  in  a  vegetable  dish  a  layer  of 
macaroni,  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese,  bits  of  butter,  pepper 
and  salt ;  proceed  in  this  manner  until  the  dish  is  full,  but 
omit  the  cheese  at  the  last.  Set  the  dish  in  the  oven  for  a 
few  minutes,  and  let  it  get  thoroughly  hot. 

Baked  Macaroni. — For  baked  macaroni,  proceed  as  in 
stewed,  but,  when  prepared  fully  as  above,  pour  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  milk  over  the  top,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

Macaroni  with  Tomatoes. — Have  water  boiling  in  a  large 
saucepan ;  throw  into  it  macaroni,  broken,  but  not  too  short ; 
let  it  cook  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  pour  over  it  some  cold 
water,  and  strain  it  quite  dry ;  cut  an  onion  into  small  dice, 
throw  it  into  cold  water  and  squeeze  it  dry  in  a  cloth ;  put 
some  olive  oil,  butter,  or  clarified  fat  into  a  saucepan ;  the 
oil,  of  course,  is  best.  Throw  into  it  the  onion,  and  let  it 
sook,  shaking  occasionally,  until  the  onion  is  almost  melted 
away.  Have  some  cooked  tomatoes  ready  to  add  to  this 


VEGETABLES.  101 

sauce.  If  it  is  too  thick,  add  some  cold  water  by  teaspoon- 
fuls  at  a  time.  Let  all  simmer  for  ten  minutes  longer. 
Sprinkle  some  grated  cheese  over  your  macaroni,  which 
must  be  piping  hot,  in  a  dish.  Pour  the  sauce  over  this  and 
serve.  A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni  makes  a  large 
dish,  and  takes  about  a  third  of  a  can  to  half  a  can  of 
tomatoes. 

Sliced  Cucumbers. — Peel  and  slice  the  cucumbers  as  thin  as 
possible ;  lay  the  slices  in  salted  water  for  an  hour ;  then 
pour  off  the  water ;  cover  them  with  vinegar,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  salt  as  may  be  necessary. 

Stewed  Oyster-plant— Cut  off  the  tops  of  a  bunch  of 
salsify,  or  oyster-plant,  close  to  the  root ;  scrape  and  wash 
well,  and  slice  lengthwise  or  round ;  stew  until  tender  in 
salted  water ;  drain  and  put  in  a  stewpan,  cover  with  milk ; 
to  one  pint  of  salsify  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  let  it  stew  a  few  min- 
utes and  add  a  little  vinegar,  if  liked. 

Mock  Pried  Oysters. — Scrape  one  bunch  of  salsify,  and  boil 
until  tender ;  mash  through  a  colander,  add  one  beaten  egg, 
a  small  piece  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  drop  by  the 
spoonful  into  hot  lard  and  fry  brown. 


VII.— SALADS  AND  SAUCES. 

SALADS      DEFINED — HOW      DRESSED,      COMBINED,     AND      SERVED. 

SAUCES   DEFINED THEIR   USES   AND    COMPOSITION.         HOW    TO 

PREPARE  INGREDIENTS  FOR  SALADS,  WHAT  VEGETABLES  TO 
EMPLOY,  FRESHNESS,  EXCELLENCE,  ETC.  FORTY-SIX  RECIPES 
FOR  SALADS  AND  SAUCES. 

T  TNDER  the  head  of  salads  all  preparations  of  uncooked 

II    herbs  or  vegetables    is   placed.      They  are   usually 

dressed  with  salt,  vinegar,  oil,  and  spices.     Sometimes 

they  are  combined  with  meat  or  shell  fish,  as  chicken,  veal, 

lobster,  etc.     They  are  used  chiefly  as  relishes  with  other 

food. 

Sauces  are  generally  used  to  impart  a  relish  to  articles 
of  food.  Sometimes  vegetables  are  employed  as  the  basis 
of  sauces,  but  they  are  compounded  chiefly  of  savory  con- 
diments, that  they  may  add  zest  to  eating. 

Meat  or  fish  used  in  salads  should  not  be  minced,  but 
rather  picked  apart,  or  cut  in  pieces  of  moderate  size.  Cab- 
bage, celery,  asparagus,  cauliflower,  water-cress,  and  all 
kinds  of  lettuce  are  the  vegetables  best  adapted  for  use  in 
salads.  They  must  be  used  when  quite  fresh  and  crisp,  and 
all  the  ingredients  used  In  their  dressing  must  be  of  the 
best  quality  and  flavor. 

All  condiments  are  in  some  sense  sauces,  but  the  term  is 
usually  confined  to  those  which  are  the  result  of  compound- 
ing a  variety  of  articles. 

RECIPES. 

Ooldslaw.— With  a  sharp  knife,  or,  better,  with  a  knife 
made  for  the  purpose,  cut  up  into  fine  shavings  a  firm  head 
of  cabbage ;  sprinkle  with  as  much  salt  and  pepper  as  you 

102 


SALADS  AMD  SAVCES. 

deem  necessary ;  beat  up  the  yelk  of  one  egg,  add  a  lump 
of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  a  gill  of  cream,  the  same 
quantity  of  vinegar,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  an  even  tea- 
spoonful  of  mustard,  and  a  pinch  of  bruised  celery  seed. 
Heat  these  condiments  together,  without  boiling,  and  pour 
over  the  sliced  cabbage ;  then  toss  it  with  a  fork  until  thor- 
oughly mixed.  Allow  time  for  it  to  cool  before  serving. 

Coldslaw,  No.  2. — Take  equal  parts  of  chopped  cabbage 
and  the  green  stalks  of  celery.  Season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  vinegar. 

Maryland  Coldslaw. — Halve  the  cabbage  and  lay  it  in  cold 
water  for  one  hour ;  shave  down  the  head  into  small  slips 
with  a  sharp  knife.  Put  in  a  saucepan  a  cup  of  vinegar,  and 
let  it  boil ;  then  add  a  cup  of  cream,  with  the  yelks  of  two 
eggs,  well  beaten  ;  let  it  boil  up,  and  pour  over  the  cabbage. 
As  soon  as  the  cabbage  is  cut  it  should  be  sprinkled  with  a 
little  salt  and  pepper. 


Salad. — Take  one  head  of  fine,  white  cabbage, 
minced  fine ;  three  hard-boiled  eggs  ;  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  salad  oil ;  two  teaspoonfuls  white  sugar  ;  one  teaspoonful 
salt ;  one  teaspoonful  pepper ;  one  teaspoonful  made  mustard ; 
one  teacupful  vinegar.  Mix  and  pour  upon  the  chopped 
cabbage. 

Lettuce  Salad.— Take  a  good-sized  head  of  lettuce  and  pull 
the  leaves  apart.  Wash  them  a  moment,  then  shake  off  the 
water  and  dry  the  leaves.  Examine  them  carefully,  wipe 
off  all  grit,  and  reject  those  that  are  bruised.  Take  the  yelks 
of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  ;  add  one-half  teaspoonful  of  mixed 
mustard,  and  mix  to  a  paste  with  a  silver  fork  ;  then  add 
slowly,  mixing  carefully,  about  one-half  a  cup  of  vinegar, 
one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  salt  to  taste ;  cut  the  lettuce 
small  as  may  be  desired  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  pour  the 
dressing  over  it ;  garnish  with  hard-boiled  eggs. 


104  EVER?   WOMAN'  HER  OHW  COOK. 

Potato  Salad. — Steam  and  slice  the  potatoes ;  add  a  very 
little  raw  onion  chopped  very  fine,  and  a  little  parsley,  and 
pour  over  the  whole  a  nice  salad  dressing.  Serve  either 
warm  or  cold,  as  may  be  preferred. 

Potato  Salad,  No.  2. — Cut  up  three  quarts  of  boiled  potatoes, 
while  hot,  into  neat  pieces ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion,  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  one  of  salt ;  also  add  a  cupful  of  oil,  and  mix ; 
then  add  a  cupful  of  warm  stock,  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar 
(from  the  mixed-pickle  bottle) ;  mix  the  ingredients  together 
carefully,  and  do  not  break  the  potatoes  any  more  than  is 
absolutely  unavoidable.  Set  the  whole  in  the  ice-box  and 
serve  cold.  The  onion  and  parsley  may  be  omitted,  and 
boiled  root  celery  added,  or  a  little  stalk  celery  chopped  fine. 

CMcken  Salad. — Boil  a  small  chicken  until  very  tendef. 
When  entirely  cold,  remove  the  skin  and  fat,  cut  the  meat 
into  small  bits,  then  cut  the  white  part  of  the  stalks  of  celery 
into  pieces  of  similar  size,  until  you  have  twice  as  much 
celery  as  meat.  Mix  the  chicken  and  celery  together;  pour 
on  Durkee's  Salad  Dressing,  and  stir  all  thoroughly.  Cold 
veal  used  in  place  of  chicken  will  also  make  a  very  excel- 
lent salad. 

CMcken  Salad,  No.  2. — Take  three  chickens,  boil  until  very 
tender ;  when  cold,  chop  them,  but  not  too  fine ;  add  twice 
the  quantity  of  celery  cut  fine,  and  three  hard-boiled  eggs 
sliced.  Make  a  dressing  with  two  cups  of  vinegar,  half  a 
cup  of  butter  (or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil),  two  eggs 
beaten,  with  a  large  tablespoonful  of  mustard,  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  tablespoonful  of  pepper, 
or  a  little  cayenne  pepper ;  put  the  vinegar  into  a  tin  pan 
and  set  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water ;  beat  the  other  ingre- 
dients together  thoroughly  and  stir  slowly  into  the  vinegar 
until  it  thickens.  Cool  it  and  pour  over  the  salad  just  be* 
fore  serving. 


SALADS  AND  SAUCES.  105 

Lobster  Salad. — To  a  three-pound  lobster  take  the  yelk  of 
one  raw  egg  beaten  very  lightly ;  then  take  the  yelks  of 
three  hard-boiled  eggs  (cold),  and  add  to  the  raw  yelk, 
beating  all  the  time ;  add,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  one-half 
bottle  of  the  finest  olive  oil,  stirring  all  the  while ;  then  add 
one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  the  best  English  mustard, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste ;  beat  the  mixture  until  light  and 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  strong  vinegar.  Cut  the  lobster  into 
small  pieces  and  mix  with  it  salt  and  pepper ;  pour  over  it 
the  dressing  just  before  sending  to  the  table  ;  garnish  with 
the  white  of  boiled  eggs,  celery  tops,  and  the  small  claws. 

Salmon  Salad — For  a  pound  can  of  salmon,  garnished  with 
lettuce,  make  a  dressing  of  one  small  teacupful  of  vinegar, 
butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  one-half  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  two  eggs.  When 
cold,  add  one-half  teacupful  of  cream  and  pour  over  the 
salmon. 

Mixed  Mustard.— One  tablespoonful  qf  mustard,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  enough  vinegar 
to  blend  into  a  paste. 

Plain  Horse-radish  is  grated  and  merely  covered  with  sharp 
vinegar. 

Horse-radish  Sance. — Take  one  tablespoonful  of  grated 
horse-radish,  a  dessertspoonful  of  mustard,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  sugar ;  then  add  vinegar,  and  stir  it  smooth.  Serve  in  a 
sauce-tureen. 

Tomato  Sauce. — Stew  one-half  dozen  tomatoes  with  a  little 
chopped  parsley ;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  ;  strain,  and  when 
it  commences  to  boil  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stirred 
smooth  with  the  same  quantity  of  butter.  When  it  boils  it 
is  ready  to  take  up. 


106  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Tomato  Sauce,  No.  2. — Halve  the  tomatoes  and  squeeze  out 
the  seeds  and  watery  pulp.  Stew  the  solid  portions  gently 
with  a  little  gravy  or  strong  broth  until  they  are  entirely 
softened.  Strain  through  a  hair  sieve  and  reheat  with 
additional  gravy,  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  salt.  Serve  hot. 

Green  Tomato  Sauce. — Cut  up  two  gallons  of  green  toma- 
toes ;  take  three  gills  of  black  mustard  seed,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  dry  mustard,  two  and  a  half  of  black  pepper, 
one  and  a  half  of  allspice,  four  of  salt,  two  of  celery  seed, 
one  quart  each  of  chopped  onions  and  sugar,  and  two  and 
a  half  quarts  of  good  vinegar,  a  little  red  pepper  to  taste. 
Beat  the  spices  and  boil  all  together  until  well  done. 

Chili  Sauce. — Take  ten  pounds  of  ripe  tomatoes,  peeled 
and  sliced ;  two  pounds  of  peeled  onions  chopped  fine ; 
seven  ounces  of  green  peppers  finely  chopped,  without  the 
seeds ;  six  ounces  of  brown  sugar ;  four  ounces  salt ;  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  vinegar.  Boil  all  together  in  a  porcelain-lined 
kettle  for  several  hours,  until  thick  as  desired ;  put  up  in 
tight  cans  or  jars,  and  use  with  soups  and  gravies. 

Celery  Sauce. — Pick  and  wash  two  heads  of  celery ;  cut 
them  into  pieces  one  inch  long,  and  stew  them  in  a  pint  of 
water,  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  until  the  celery  is  tender. 
Rub  a  large  spoonful  of  butter  and  a  spoonful  of  flour  well 
together ;  stir  this  into  a  pint  of  cream ;  put  in  the  celery, 
and  let  it  boil  up  once.  Serve  hot  with  boiled  poultry. 

Mint  Sauce. — Wash  the  sprigs  of  mint,  let  them  dry  on  a 
towel,  strip  off  the  leaves,  and  chop  them  very  fine ;  put  in 
a  sauce-boat  with  a  cupful  of  vinegar  and  four  lumps  of 
sugar;  let  it  stand  an  hour,  and  before  serving  stir  all 
together.  Mint  sauce,  if  bottled,  will  keep  a  long  time, 
and  be  just  as  good,  if  not  better,  than  when  freshly  made. 

Asparagus  Sauce. — Take  a  dozen  heads  of  asparagus ;  two 
teacupfuls  drawn  butter;  two  eggs;  the  juice  of  half  a 


SALADS  AND  SAUCES.  107 

lemon ;  salt  and  white  pepper.  Boil  the  tender  heads  in  a 
very  little  salt  water.  Drain  and  chop  them.  Have  ready 
a  pint  of  drawn  butter,  with  two  raw  eggs  beaten  into  it ; 
add  the  asparagus,  and  season,  squeezing  in  the  lemon  juice 
last.  The  butter  must  be  hot,  but  do  not  cook  after  putting 
in  the  asparagus  heads.  This  is  a  delightful  sauce  for  boiled 
fowls,  stewed  fillet  of  veal,  or  boiled  mutton. 

Mushroom  Sauce. — Pick,  rub,  and  wash  a  pint  of  young 
mushrooms,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  to  take  off  the  skin.  Put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  salt,  a  blade  of  mace,  a 
little  nutmeg,  a  pint  of  cream,  and  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour ;  boil  them  up  and  stir  till  done. 

Caper  Sauce. — Make  a  drawn  butter  sauce,  and  add  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  French  capers  ;  remove  from  the  fire 
and  add  a  little  lemon  juice. 

Cranberry  Sauce. — Cover  a  quart  of  cranberries  with  water 
and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  thoroughly  cooked.  Strain  the 
skins  out  through  a  colander,  and  add  to  the  juice  two  cup- 
fuls  of  sugar ;  let  it  simmer  again  for  fifteen  minutes,  and 
pour  into  a  mold  previously  wet  in  cold  water. 

Strawberry  Sauce. — Rub  half  a  cupful  of  butter  and  one 
cupful  of  sugar  to  a  cream ;  add  the  beaten  white  of  an 
egg  and  one  cupful  of  strawberries  thoroughly  mashed. 

Lemon  Sauce. — One-half  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  yelks  of  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch. 
Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  until  light ;  add  the  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  one  lemon.  Stir  the  whole  into  three  gills 
of  boiling  water  until  it  thickens  sufficiently  for  the  table. 

Lemon  Sauce,  No.  2. — One  large  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one 
small  tablespoonful  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  grated 
rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon. 


108  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Vanilla  Sauce. — Put  half  a  pint  of  milk  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan  over  the  fire;  when  scalding  hot  add  the  yelks  of 
three  eggs,  and  stir  until  it  is  as  thick  as  boiled  custard ; 
remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  when  cool  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  extract  of  vanilla  and  the  beaten  whites  of 
two  eggs. 

Venison  Sauce. — Mix  two  teaspoonfuk  of  currant  jelly, 
one  stick  of  cinnamon,  one  blade  of  mace,  grated  white 
bread,  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  water ;  let  the  whole  stew  till 
thoroughly  cooked,  when  done  serve  with  venison  steak. 

Anchovy  Sauce. — Stir  two  or  three  teaspoonfuls  of  pre- 
pared essence  or  paste  of  anchovy,  into  a  pint  of  melted 
butter ;  let  the  sauce  boil  a  few  minutes,  and  flavor  with 
lemon  juice. 

Lobster  Sauce. — Break  the  shell  of  the  lobster  into  small 
pieces.  Pour  over  these  one  pint  of  water  or  veal-stock 
and  a  pinch  of  salt ;  simmer  gently  until  the  liquid  is  re- 
duced one-half.  Mix  two  ounces  of  butter  with  an  ounce 
of  flour,  strain  the  liquid  upon  it  and  stir  all,  over  the  fire, 
until  the  mixture  thickens,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  lobster  meat  chopped  fine,  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon,  and  serve. 

Oyster  Sauce. — Strain  fifty  oysters;  put  the  juice  into  a 
saucepan ;  add  one  pint  of  new  milk ;  let  it  simmer,  and 
then  skim  off  whatever  froth  may  rise.  Rub  a  large  spoon- 
ful of  flour  and  two  of  butter  together ;  stir  this  into  the 
liquor ;  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Let  this  simmer  five 
minutes,  but  do  not  add  the  oysters  till  just  as  they  are  to 
be  sent  to  the  table,  as  oysters  much  cooked  are  hard.  For 
turkeys,  etc.,  this  is  a  splendid  dressing. 

Plain  French  Dressing. — A  plain  French  dressing  is  made 
simply  of  salt,  pepper,  oil,  and  vinegar.  Three  tablespoon- 
fuls of  oil  *o  one  of  vinegar,  saltspoon  heaping  full  of  salt, 
an  even  saltspoonful  of  pepper  mixed  with  a  little  cayenne. 


SALADS  AND  SAUCES.  109 

Mayonnaise  Sauce. — Work  the  yelks  of  two  raw  eggs  to  a 
smooth  paste,  and  add  two  saltspoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne,  a  saltspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  oil;  mix  these  thoroughly  and  add  the 
strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Take  what  remains  of  half 
a  pint  of  olive  oil  and  add  it  gradually,  a  teaspoonful  at  a 
time,  and  every  fifth  teaspoonful  add  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice  until  you  have  used  two  lemons  and  the  half- 
pint  of  oil. 


ranaise  Sauce,  No.  2. — Rub  the  yelks  of  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  with  the  yelk  of  one  raw  egg  to  a  smooth  paste ; 
add  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  saltspoonfuls  of 
white  pepper,  and  two  saltspoonfuls  of  made  mustard; 
mix  thoroughly  and  work  a  gill  of  oil  gradually  into  the 
mixture,  alternated  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  until  you 
have  used  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Should  the 
sauce  appear  too  thick,  add  a  wineglassful  of  cream. 

Butter  Sauce. — Mix  well  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  some  chopped  parsley,  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  salt, 
and  pepper.  For  broiled  meat  or  fish. 

Brown  Butter  Sauce. — Put  butter  into  a  frying-pan  and  let 
it  stand  on  the  fire  until  very  brown ;  then  add  a  little  pars- 
ley and  fry  a  moment  longer. 

Drawn  Butter  Sauce. — Take  one-quarter  pound  of  butter ; 
rub  with  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour.  When  well  mixed, 
put  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pint  of  water  ;  cover  it, 
and  set  the  saucepan  into  a  larger  one  full  of  boiling  water. 
Shake  it  constantly  till  completely  melted  and  beginning  to 
boil ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Boiled  Egg  Sauce. — Add  to  half  a  pint  of  drawn  butter 
sauce  two  or  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped. 


110  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

WMte  Sauce. — Thicken  half  a  pint  of  new  milk  with  a  lit/ 
tie  flour  or  arrowroot.  After  it  has  boiled,  stir  in  slowly 
about  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  cut  into  small  pieces. 
Continue  to  stir  until  the  butter  is  completely  dissolved. 
Add  a  few  thin  strips  of  lemon  rind,  a  little  salt,  and 
pounded  mace. 

White  Sauce,  No.  2.— Boil  a  few  thin  strips  of  lemon  peel 
in  half  a  pint  of  good  veal  gravy  just  long  enough  to  give 
it  their  flavor.  Stir  in  a  thickening  of  arrowroot,  or  flour 
and  butter ;  add  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  boiling 
cream. 

Cream  Sauce. — Beat  the  yelks  of  three  eggs,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  sugar,  and  vanilla  flavor.  Turn  on  it  a 
pint  of  boiling  milk,  and  stir  well. 

Brandy  Sauce. — Four  ounces  of  sugar  and  two  ounces  of 
butter,  well  creamed  together ;  then  beat  an  egg  into  it, 
with  two  ounces  of  brandy. 

Wine  Sauce. — Take  one  pint  bowl  of  white  sugar,  not 
quite  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  one  glass  of  wine,  one 
grated  nutmeg,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  warm  water ;  beat 
together  steadily  for  half  an  hour. 

Hard  Sauce. — One  cupful  butter,  three  cupfuls  sugar;  beat 
very  hard,  flavoring  with  lemon  juice ;  smooth  into  shape 
with  a  knife  dipped  into  cold  water. 

Sauces  in  General — Worcestershire,  Challenge,  Annear, 
and  other  sauces  in  the  market  have  each  their  specially  good 
points.  Trial  of  them  should  be  made  and  the  best  used. 


VIII.— CROQUETTES  AND  FRITTERS. 


CROQUETTES     DEFINED  ;      FRITTERS     DEFINED ;    USES    OF     BOTH. 
TWENTY-FOUR   RECIPES   FOR  CROQUETTES  AND   FRITTERS. 

THE  term  croquette  (pronounced  cro-ket)  is  from  a  French 
verb,  meaning  "  to  crunch."     It  designates  all  that  class 
of  preparations  made  of  minced  meat,  or   other  in- 
gredients, highly  seasoned  and  fried  in  bread-crumbs. 

Fritters,  like  croquettes,  are  fried,  but  they  are  made  of 
batter  containing  other  ingredients,  as  taste  may  dictate. 
Both  these  preparations  are  used  as  accessories  of  the  din- 
ner or  tea  table  rather  than  as  principal  dishes. 

RECIPES. 

Rice  Croquettes. — Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  into  a 
pint  of  milk.  Let  it  simmer  gently  until  the  rice  is  tender 
and  the  milk  absorbed.  It  must  then  be  boiled  until  thick 
and  dry,  or  it  will  be  difficult  to  mold.  Add  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  egg,  and  flavor  to  taste 
with  vanilla  or  cinnamon  ;  beat  thoroughly  for  a  few  minutes, 
and  when  cold  form  into  balls  or  cones,  dip  these  into 
beaten  egg,  roll  lightly  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  butter. 

Hominy  Croquettes. — To  a  cupful  of  cold  boiled  hominy 
(small  grained)  add  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  and  stir 
hard ;  moisten  by  degrees  with  a  cupful  of  milk,  beating  to  a 
soft,  light  paste.  Put  in  a  teaspoonful  of  white  sugar  and  a 
well-beaten  egg.  Roll  into  oval  balls  with  floured  hands, 
dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker-crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
lard. 

W 


112  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Potato  Croquettes. — Season  cold  mashed  potatoes  with  pep- 
per, salt,  and  nutmeg.  Beat  to  a  cream,  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  melted  butter  to  every  cupful  of  potato.  Add  two  or 
three  beaten  eggs  and  some  minced  parsley.  Roll  into  small 
balls;  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in 
hot  lard. 

Oyster-Plant  Croquettes.— Wash,  scrape,  and  boil  the  oyster- 
plant  till  tender ;  rub  it  through  a  colander,  and  mix  with 
the  pulp  a  little  butter,  cream,  salt,  cayenne,  and  lemon  juice; 
mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly  together  to  a  smooth  paste, 
and  set  the  dish  in  the  ice-box  to  get  cold ;  then  shape  it 
into  small  cones,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  crumbs, 
and  fry  crisp  and  brown. 

Chicken  Croquettes. — Add  to  the  quantity  of  minced  chicken; 
about  one-quarter  the  quantity  of  bread-crumbs,  also  one 
egg  well  beaten  to  each  cupful  of  meat ;  pepper,  salt,  and 
chopped  parsley  to  taste,  add  the  yelks  of  two  hard-boiled 
eggs  rubbed  smooth.  Add  gravy  or  drawn  butter  to  moisten 
it,  make  into  cones  or  balls,  roll  in  cracker-dust  or  flour, 
and  fry  in  hot  lard. 

Veal  Croquettes. — Make  these  the  same  as  chicken  cro- 
quettes, by  substituting  for  the  chicken  cold  minced  veal  and 
ham  in  equal  parts.  The  salt  may  be  omitted,  as  the 
ham  usually  supplies  it  sufficiently.  Turkey,  duck,  or  the 
remains  of  any  cold  game  or  meat  may  be  used  in  the  same 
way  with  very  satisfactory  results. 

Oyster  Croquettes. — Take  the  hard  ends  of  the  oysters,  leav- 
ing the  other  end  for  a  soup  or  stew  ;  scald  them,  then  chop 
fine,  and  add  an  equal  weight  of  potatoes  rubbed  through  a 
colander ;  to  one  pound  of  this  combination  add  two  ounces 
of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
per, half  a  teaspoonful  of  mace,  and  one-half  gill  of  cream, 
make  in  small  rolls,  dip  them  in  egg  and  grated  bread,  fry 
in  deep,  hot  lard, 


CROQUETTES  AND  FRITTERS.  113 

Lobster  Croquettes. — Chop  the  lobster  very  fine ;  mix  with 
pepper,  salt,  bread-crumbs,  and  a  little  parsley;  moisten 
with  cream  and  a  small  piece  of  butter ;  shape  with  your 
hands ;  dip  in  egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  fry  in  hot  lard. 

Plain  Fritters. — Take  one  pint  of  flour,  four  eggs,  one 
pint  of  boiling  water,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Stir  the 
flour  into  the  boiling  water  gradually,  and  let  it  boil  three 
minutes,  stirring  constantly.  Remove  from  the  fire  and 
stir  in  the  yelks  of  the  eggs,  afterward  the  whites,  they  hav- 
ing been  well  beaten.  Drop  this  batter  by  large  spoon- 
fuls into  boiling  lard  and  fry  to  a  light  brown.  Serve  hot, 
powdered  with  white  sugar. 

Bread  Fritters.— Grate  stale  bread  until  you  have  a  pint  of 
crumbs  ;  pour  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  upon  these,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  having  been  dissolved  in  it,  and  let  the 
whole  stand  for  an  hour.  Then  beat  up  the  mixture  and 
flavor  with  nutmeg.  Stir  in  gradually  a  quarter  pound  of 
white  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy,  six  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  currants  enough  to  flavor  the  whole.  The  cur- 
rants should  be  washed,  dried,  and  floured.  Drop  by  large 
spoonfuls  into  boiling  lard  and  fry  to  a  light  brown.  Serve 
with  wine  and  powdered  sugar. 

Potato  Fritters. — Break  open  four  nicely  baked  potatoes  j 
scoop  out  the  insides  with  a  spoon,  and  mix  with  them  a 
wineglassful  of  cream,  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  and  well-beaten  yelks  of  four 
and  the  whites  of  three  eggs  ;  beat  the  batter  until  it  is  quite 
smooth  ;  drop  large  tablespoonfuls  of  the  mixture  into  boil" 
ing  fat  and  fry  to  a  light  brown  ;  dust  them  with  powdered 
sugar  and  send  to  table  hot. 

Corn  Fritters. — Scrape  twelve  ears  of  corn,  mix  with  twt 
I 


114  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

eggs,  one  and  one-half  cups  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste^ 
and  flour  enough  to  hold  all  together.     Fry  in  hot  fat. 

Hominy  Fritters. — Two  teacupfuls  of  cold  boiled  hominy ; 
stir  in  one  teacupful  of  sweet  milk  and  a  little  salt,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  and  one  egg ;  beat  the  white  sepa- 
rately and  add  last ;  drop  the  batter  by  spoonfuls  in  hot  lard 
and  fry  to  a  nice  brown. 

Bice  Fritters. — Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  in  milk 
till  it  is  tender,  then  mix  it  with  a  pint  of  milk,  two  eggs, 
one  cup  of  sugar,  a  little  salt  and  cinnamon,  and  as  much 
flour  as  will  make  a  thick  batter.  Fry  them  in  thin  cakes 
and  serve  with  butter  and  white  powdered  sugar. 

Parsnip  Fritters. — Boil  four  good-sized  parsnips  in  salted 
water  until  tender ;  drain  them,  beat  them  to  a  pulp,  and 
squeeze  the  water  from  them  as  much  as  possible ;  bind 
them  together  with  a  beaten  egg  and  a  little  flour.  Shape 
into  cakes  and  fry  in  hot  lard. 

Fruit  Fritters. — The  following  recipe  will  serve  for  many 
kinds  of  fruit  or  vegetable  fritters :  Make  a  batter  of  ten 
ounces  of  flour,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter ;  sweeten  and  flavor  to  taste ;  stir  in  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  well  beaten ;  dip  the  fruit  in  the  batter  and  fry.  Small 
fruit  and  vegetables  should  be  mixed  with  the  batter. 

Apple  Fritters. — Take  one  egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
a  little  sifted  sugar  and  ginger,  with  milk  enough  to  make 
a  smooth  batter ;  cut  a  good  sized  apple  into  slices  and  put 
them  into  the  batter.  Put  them  into  a  frying-pan,  with  the 
batter  which  is  taken  up  in  the  spoon.  When  fried,  drain 
them  on  a  sieve  and  sift  on  powdered  sugar. 

Currant  Fritters. — Take  twocupfuls  dry,  fine  bread-crumbs, 
two  tablespoonfuls  prepared  flour,  two  cups  of  milk,  one- 
half  pound  currants,  washed  and  well  dried ;  five  eggs 


CROQUETTES  AND  FRITTERS.  H5 

whipped  very  light  and  the  yelks  strained,  one-half  cup  pow- 
dered sugar,  one  tablespoonful  butter,  one-half  teaspoonful 
mixed  cinnamon  and  nutmeg.  Boil  the  milk  and  pour  over 
the  bread.  Mix  and  put  in  the  butter.  Let  it  get  cold. 
Beat  in,  next,  the  yelks  and  sugar,  the  seasoning,  flour,  and 
stiff  whites,  finally  the  currants  dredged  white  with  flour. 
The  batter  should  be  thick.  Drop  great  spoonfuls  into 
the  hot  lard  and  fry.  Drain  them  and  send  hot  to  table. 
Eat  with  a  mixture  of  wine  and  powdered  sugar. 

Oyster  Fritters. — Take  one  and  one-half  pints  of  sweet 
milk,  one  and  one-fourth  pounds  of  flour,  four  egg  (the  yelks 
having  been  beaten  very  thick) ;  add  milk  and  flour ;  stir 
the  whole  well  together,  then  beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth 
and  stir  them  gradually  into  the  batter  ;  take  a  spoonful  of 
the  mixture,  drop  an  oyster  into  it,  and  fry  in  hot  lard ;  let 
them  be  a  light  brown  on  both  sides. 

Clam  Fritters. — Take  a  dozen  chopped  clams,  one  pint  of 
milk,  three  eggs.  Add  liquor  from  the  clams,  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  flour  enough  to  produce  thin  batter.  Fry  in 
hot  lard. 

Cream  Fritters. — Take  one  cup  of  cream,  the  whites  of  five 
eggs,  two  full  cups  prepared  flour,  one  saltspoonful  of  nut- 
meg, a  pinch  of  salt.  Stir  the  whites  into  the  cream  in  turn 
with  the  flour,  put  in  nutmeg  and  salt,  beat  all  hard  for  two 
minutes.  The  batter  should  be  rather  thick.  Fry  in  plenty 
of  sweet  lard,  a  spoonful  of  batter  for  each  fritter.  Drain  and 
serve  upon  a  hot,  clean  napkin.  Eat  with  jelly  sauce.  Do 
not  cut  them  open,  but  break  or  pull  them  apart 

French  Fritters. — Take  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking  powder,  two  eggs,  milk  enough  for  stiff 
batter,  and  a  little  salt.  Drop  into  boiling  lard  and  fry  light 
brown.  Serve  with  cream  and  sugar  or  sauce. 


116  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Spanish  Fritters. — Cut  stale  bread  into  small,  round  slices 
about  an  inch  thick ;  soak  them  in  milk,  and  then  dip  them 
into  well-beaten  egg  which  has  been  sweetened  to  taste. 
Sprinkle  thickly  with  cinnamon  and  fry  in  hot  lard. 

Venetian  Fritters. — Take  three  ounces  of  whole  rice,  wash 
and  drain  into  a  pint  of  cold  milk.  Let  it  come  slowly  to  a 
boil,  stirring  often,  and  let  it  simmer  till  quite  thick  and  dry. 
Add  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  one  of  fresh  butter,  a 
pinch  of  salt,  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon.  Let  the 
whole  cool  in  the  saucepan,  and  while  still  a  little  warm 
mix  in  three  ounces  of  currants,  four  ounces  of  chopped 
apples,  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  three  well-beaten  eggs. 
Drop  the  batter  in  small  lumps  into  boiling  fat,  allowing 
them  to  fry  till  the  under  side  is  quite  firm  and  brown  ;  then 
turn  and  brown  the  other  side.  When  done,  drain  through 
a  hair  sieve,  and  powder  with  white  sugar  when  about  to 
serve. 


IX.— EGGS. 


NUTRITIOUS  VALUE  OF  EGGS — TEST  OF  FRESHNESS — PACKING  EGGS 
— PRESERVING  EGGS.     TWENTY-EIGHT   WAYS  OF  COOKING   EGGS. 

HIGH  chemical  authorities  agree  that  there  is  more  nutri- 
ment in  an  egg  than  in  any  substance  of  equal  bulk 
found  in  nature  or  produced  by  art.     They  are  much 
used  for  food  the  world  over,  and  few  articles  are  capable 
of  more  varied  employment. 

The  freshness  of  an  egg  may  be  determined  in  various 
ways.  In  a  fresh  egg,  the  butt  end,  if  touched  on  the 
tongue,  is  sensibly  wanner  than  the  point  end.  If  held  to- 
ward the  light  and  looked  through  ("  candled  "),  a  fresh  egg 
will  show  a  clear  white  and  a  well-rounded  yelk.  A  stale 
egg  will  appear  muddled.  Probably  the  surest  test  is  to  put 
the  eggs  into  a  pan  of  cold  water.  Fresh  eggs  sink  quickly ; 
bad  eggs  float;  suspicious  ones  act  suspiciously,  neither 
sinking  nor  floating  very  decidedly.  Of  all  articles  of  food, 
doubtful  eggs  are  most  certainly  to  be  condemned. 

On  the  packing  of  eggs,  the  following  conclusions  may 
be  regarded  as  established  among  egg-dealers :  By  cold 
storage,  temperature  forty  to  forty-two  degrees  Fahrenheit, 
kept  uniform,  with  eggs  packed  properly  or  in  cases,  they 
will  keep  in  good  condition  from  six  to  nine  months ;  but 
they  must  be  used  soon  after  being  taken  out  of  the  cold 
storage,  as  they  soon  spoil.  Eggs  become  musty  from  being 
packed  in  bad  material.  They  will  become  musty  in  cases, 
as  a  change  of  temperature  causes  the  eggs  to  sweat  and 
the  wrapping-paper  to  become  moist  and  taint  the  eggs. 

117 


118  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK'. 

Well-dried  oats,  a  year  old,  makes  the  best  packing.  Eggs 
become  "  mixed  "  by  jarring  in  shipping.  Fresh  eggs  mix 
worse  than  those  kept  in  cold  storage.  Eggs  which  have 
been  held  in  cold  storage  in  the  West  should  be  shipped  in 
refrigerator  cars  in  summer.  Eggs  will  keep  thirty  days 
longer  if  stood  on  the  little  end  than  in  any  other  position. 
They  must  be  kept  at  an  even  temperature  and  in  a  pur« 
atmosphere.  Eggs  laid  on  the  side  attach  to  the  shell  and 
are  badly  injured.  To  prevent  imposition  as  to  the  freshness 
of  the  eggs,  the  egg  gatherers  should  "  candle  "  them  when 
they  get  them  from  the  farmers.  Eggs  keep  better  in  the 
dark  than  in  the  light. 

Methods  of  preservation  for  domestic  purposes  are,  to 
pack  them  in  bran  or  salt,  the  small  end  down  ;  to  grease 
them  with  linseed  oil,  or  dip  them  in  a  light  varnish.  For 
extra  long  keeping,  slack  one  pound  of  lime  in  a  gallon  of 
water ;  when  this  is  entirely  cold,  place  it  in  a  jar  and  fill 
with  fresh  eggs.  Do  not  agitate  the  contents  when  eggs 
are  removed  from  the  jar.  Eggs  kept  so  will  continue  good 
for  a  year. 

The  French  method  of  preserving  eggs  is  to  dissolve 
beeswax  and  olive  oil  and  anoint  the  eggs  all  over.  If  left 
undisturbed  in  a  cool  place,  they  will  remain  good  for  two 
years. 

RECIPES. 

Boiled  Eggs. — Put  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  with  a 
tablespoon,  being  careful  not  to  break  or  crack  them.  Boil 
steadily  three  minutes,  if  you  want  them  soft ;  ten,  if  hard. 

Another  way  is  to  put  them  on  in  cold  water,  and  let  it 
come  to  a  boil.  The  inside,  white  and  yelk,  will  be  then  of 
the  consistency  of  custard. 

Still  another  way  is  to  put  them  in  water,  heated  to  the 
boiling  point,  and  let  them  stand  from  five  to  seven  minutes 
without  boiling.  If  desired  for  salad,  boil  them  ten  minutes; 


EGGS. 

then  throw  them  in  cold  water ;  roll  them  gently  on  a  table 
or  board,  and  the  shell  can  be  easily  removed.  Wire  egg 
racks,  to  set  in  boiling  hot  water  with  the  eggs  held  in  place, 
are  exceedingly  convenient. 

Boiled  Eggs,  with  Sauce. — Boil  hard,  remove  the  shell,  set 
in  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  seasoning  and  sauce  to  taste. 

Poached  Eggs. — Have  the  water  well  salted,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil  hard.  Break  the  eggs  separately  into  a  saucer,  and 
slip  them  singly  into  the  water ;  when  nicely  done,  remove 
with  a  skimmer,  trim  neatly,  and  lay  each  egg  upon  a  small 
thin  square  of  buttered  toast,  then  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Some  persons  prefer  them  poached  rather  than 
fried  with  ham ;  in  which  case  substitute  the  ham  for  toast. 

Poached  Eggs  with  Ham  Sauce. — Mince  fine  two  or  three 
slices  of  boiled  ham,  a  small  onion,  a  little  parsley,  pepper, 
and  salt ;  stew  together  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  put  the 
poached  eggs  in  a  dish,  squeeze  over  them  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  pour  on  the  sauce  hot  but  not  boiling. 

Poached  Eggs  a  la  Creme. — Nearly  fill  a  clean  frying-pan 
with  water  boiling  hot ;  strain  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 
through  double  muslin,  and  add  to  the  water  with  a  little 
salt.  Slip  your  eggs  from  the  saucer  upon  the  top  of  the 
water  (first  taking  the  pan  from  the  fire).  Boil  three  min- 
utes and  a  half;  drain,  and  lay  on  buttered  toast  in  a  hot 
dish.  Turn  the  water  from  the  pan  and  pour  in  half  a  cup- 
ful of  cream  or  milk.  If  you  use  the  latter,  thicken  with  a 
very  little  corn-starch.  Let  it  heat  to  a  boil,  stirring  to  pre- 
vent burning,  and  add  a  great  spoonful  of  butter,  some  pep- 
per, and  salt.  Boil  up  once  and  pour  over  the  eggs.  Or 
better  still,  heat  the  milk  in  a  separate  saucepan,  that  the 
eggs  may  not  have  to  stand.  A  little  broth  improves  the 
sauce. 


120  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Steamed  Eggs.— Butter  a  'tin  plate  and  break  in  your  eggs  • 
set  in  a  steamer ;  place  over  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and 
steam  until  the  whites  are  cooked;  they  are  more  orna_- 
mental  when  broken  into  patty  tins,  as  they  keep  their  form 
better  ;  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  when  cooked  in  this  manner, 
are  tender  and  light,  and  not  tough  and  leathery,  as  if  cooked 
by  any  other  process. 

Eggs  in  this  style  can  be  eaten  by  invalids,  and  are  very 
much  richer  than  by  any  other  method. 

Whirled  Eggs. — Put  a  quart  of  water,  slightly  salted,  into 
a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  keep  it  at  a  fast  boil.  Stir 
with  wooden  spoon  or  ladle  in  one  direction  until  it  whirls 
rapidly.  Break  six  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  into  a  cup  and  drop 
each  carefully  into'the  centre,  or  vortex,  of  the  boiling  water. 
If  kept  at  a  rapid  motion,  the  egg  will  become  a  soft,  round 
ball.  Take  it  out  carefully  with  a  perforated  spoon,  and  put 
it  on  a  slice  of  buttered  toast  laid  upon  a  hot  dish.  Put  a 
bit  of  butter  on  the  top.  Set  the  dish  in  the  oven  to  keep 
warm,  and  proceed  in  the  same  way  with  another  egg,  hav- 
ing but  one  in  the  saucepan  at  a  time.  When  all  are  done, 
dust  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  send  up  hot. 

Eggs  a  la  Mode. — Remove  the  skin  from  a  dozen  tomatoes, 
medium  size,  cut  them  up  in  a  saucepan,  add  a  little  butter, 
pepper,  and  salt ;  when  sufficiently  boiled,  beat  up  five  or 
six  eggs,  and  just  before  you  serve,  turn  them  into  a  sauce* 
pan  with  the  tomato,  and  stir  one  way  for  two  minutes,  allow- 
ing them  time  to  be  well  done. 

Baked  Eggs. — Mix  finely  chopped  ham  and  bread-crumbs 
in  about  equal  proportions,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
moisten  with  milk  and  a  little  melted  butter ;  half  fill  your 
small  patty  pans  with  the  mixture,  break  an  egg  over  the 
top  of  each,  sprinkle  with  fine  bread-crumbs,  and  bake; 
serve  hot 


EGGS. 

Baked  Eggs,  No.  2. — Butter  a  clean,  smooth  saucepan,  break 
as  many  eggs  as  will  be  needed  into  a  saucer,  one  by  one, 
and  if  found  good,  slip  each  into  the  saucepan.  No  broken 
yelk  must  be  allowed,  nor  must  they  crowd  so  as  to  risk 
breaking  the  yelk  after  put  in.  Put  a  small  piece  of  butter 
on  each,  and  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt.  Set  into  a  well- 
heated  oven,  and  bake  till  the  whites  are  set.  If  the  oven 
is  rightly  heated,  it  will  take  but  a  few  minutes,  and  the 
cooking  will  be  far  more  delicate  than  fried  eggs. 

Eggs  snr  le  Plat. — Melt  butter  on  a  stone-china  or  tin  plate. 
Break  the  eggs  carefully  into  this ;  dust  lightly  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  put  on  top  of  the  stove  until  the  whites  are 
well  set.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they  are  baked. 

Scrambled  Eggs. — Put  into  a  frying-pan  enough  butter  to 
grease  it  well ;  slip  in  the  eggs  carefully  without  breaking 
the  yelks ;  add  butter,  and  season  to  taste ;  when  the  whites 
begin  to  set,  stir  the  eggs  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and 
continue  stirring  until  the  cooking  is  completed.  The 
appearance  at  the  end  should  be  marbled,  rather  than  mixed. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Ham. — Put  into  a  pan,  butter,  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  milk ;  when  hot,  drop  in  the 
eggs,  and  with  a  knife  cut  the  eggs  and  scrape  them  from 
the  bottom  as  the  whites  begin  to  set ;  add  some  cold  ham 
chopped  fine,  and  when  done,  serve  in  a  hot  dish. 

Toasted  Eggs. — Cover  the  bottom  of  an  earthenware  or 
stone-china  dish  with  rounds  of  delicately  toasted  bread,  or 
with  rounds  of  stale  bread  dipped  in  beaten  egg  and  fried 
quickly  to  a  golden-brown  in  butter  or  nice  dripping. 
Break  an  egg  carefully  upon  each,  and  set  the  dish  imme- 
diately in  front  of  a  glowing  fire.  Toast  over  this  as  many 
slices  of  fat  salt  pork  or  ham  as  there  are  eggs  in  the  dish, 
holding  the  meat  so  that  it  will  fry  very  quickly  and  all  the 
dripping  fall  upon  the  eggs.  When  these  are  well  set,  they 
we  d<?ne«  Jura  the  dish  several  times  while  toasting  the 


122  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

meat,  that  the  eggs  may  be  equally  cooked.  ,  Do  not  send 
the  pork  to  table,  but  pepper  the  eggs  lightly  and  remove 
with  the  toast  to  the  dish  in  which  they  go  to  the  table. 

Egg  Toast. — Beat  four  eggs,  yelks  and  whites,  together 
thoroughly  ;  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  sauce- 
pan and  melt  slowly ;  then  pour  in  the  eggs  and  heat,  with- 
out boiling,  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  constantly ;  add  a  little 
salt,  and  when  hot  spread  on  slices  of  nicely  browned  toast 
and  serve  at  once. 

Egg  Baskets. — Boil  quite  hard  as  many  eggs  as  will  be 
needed.  Put  into  cold  water  till  cold,  then  cut  neatly  into 
halves  with  a  thin,  sharp  knife ;  remove  the  yelk  and  rub  to 
a  paste  with  some  melted  butter,  adding  pepper  and  salt. 
Cover  up  this  paste  and  set  aside  till  the  filling  is  ready. 
Take  cold  roast  duck,  chicken,  or  turkey,  which  may  be  on 
hand,  chop  fine  and  pound  smooth,  and  while  pounding 
mix  in  the  paste  prepared  from  the  yelks.  As  you  pound, 
moisten  with  melted  butter  and  some  gravy  which  may 
have  been  left  over  from  the  fowls ;  set  this  paste  when  done 
over  hot  water  till  well  heated.  Cut  off  a  small  slice  from 
the  end  of  the  empty  halves  of  the  whites,  so  they  will  stand 
firm,  then  fill  them  with  this  paste ;  place  them  close  to- 
gether on  a  flat,  round  dish,  and  pour  over  the  rest  of  the 
gravy,  if  any  remains,  or  make  a  little  fresh.  A  few  spoon- 
fuls of  cream  or  rich  milk  improves  this  dressing. 

Fricasseed  Eggs. — Boil  six  eggs  hard ;  when  cold,  slice 
with  a  sharp  knife.  Have  ready  some  slices  of  stale  bread, 
fried  to  a  nice  brown  in  butter  or  drippings.  Put  a  cupful 
of  good  broth  in  drawn  butter  over  the  fire,  season  it  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  trace  of  onion ;  let  it  come  to  a  boil. 
Dip  the  slices  of  egg  first  into  raw  egg,  then  into  cracker 
dust  or  bread-crumbs,  and  lay  them  gently  into  the  gravy 
upon  the  side  of  the  range.  Do  not  let  it  actually  boil,  lest 
the  eggs  should  break,  but  let  them  lie  thus  ia  the  gravy  at 


&GGS.  123 

least  five  minutes.  Place  the  fried  bread  upon  a  platter,  lay 
the  sliced  eggs  evenly  upon  this,  pour  the  gravy  over  all, 
and  serve  hot. 

Curried  Eggs. — Boil  six  or  eight  fresh  eggs  quite  hard, 
and  put  them  aside  until  they  are  cold.  Mix  well  together 
from  two  to  three  ounces  of  good  butter,  and  from  three  to 
four  dessertspoonfuls  of  currie-powder ;  shake  them  in  a 
stewpan,  or  thick  saucepan,  over  a  clear  but  moderate  fire 
for  some  minutes,  then  throw  in  a  couple  of  mild  onions 
finely  minced,  and  fry  gently  until  they  are  soft ;  pour  in  by 
degrees  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  broth  or 
gravy,  and  stew  slowly  until  they  are  reduced  to  pulp ;  mix 
smoothly  a  small  cup  of  thick  cream  with  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  wheaten  or  rice  flour ;  stir  them  to  the  currie,  and  simmer 
the  whole  until  the  raw  taste  of  the  thickening  is  gone. 
Cut  the  eggs  into  half-inch  slices,  heat  them  through  in  the 
sauce  without  boiling  them,  and  send  to  the  table  as  hot  as 
possible. 

Plain  Omelet.— Beat  thoroughly  yelks  of  five  eggs,  and  a 
dessertspoonful  of  flour,  rubbed  smooth  in  two-thirds  of  a 
cupful  of  milk.  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  add  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  a  hickory-nut.  Beat  the  whites  to  a 
stiff  froth,  pour  the  mixture  into  the  whites,  and  without 
stirring  pour  into  a  hot,  buttered  omelet  pan.  Cook  on  top 
of  the  range  for  five  minutes  ;  then  set  pan  and  all  into  the 
oven  to  brown  the  top  nicely. 

Baked  Omelet— Beat  the  yelks  of  six  eggs,  and  add  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  very  light ;  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste>  and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  mixed  in  a  cup  of  milk. 
Pour  into  a  well-buttered  pan  and  put  into  a  hot  oven ; 
when  thick,  pour  over  it  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten 
light ;  then  brown  nicely,  without  allowing  the  top  to  be* 
come  crusted,  Serve 


124  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Omelet  a  la  Mode. — Beat  the  yelks  and  whites  of  six  eggs 
separately  until  light,  then  beat  together  and  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cream.  Have  in  the  omelet  pan  a  piece  of 
butter ;  when  the  butter  is  boiling  hot,  pour  in  the  omelet 
and  shake  until  it  begins  to  stiffen,  and  then  let  it  brown,  and 
season  to  taste.  Fold  double  and  serve  hot. 

If  a  larger  omelet  is  desired,  a  tablespoonful  of  milk  to 
each  egg  may  be  added,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch 
or  flour  to  the  whole. 

Cheese  Omelet — Butter  the  sides  of  a  deep  dish  and  cover 
with  thin  slices  of  rich  cheese ;  lay  over  the  cheese  thin 
slices  of  well-buttered  bread,  first  covering  the  cheese  with 
a  little  red  pepper  and  mustard;  then  another  layer  of  cheese  ; 
beat  the  yelk  of  an  egg  in  a  cup  of  cream  or  milk,  and  pour 
over  the  dish,  and  put  at  once  into  the  oven  ;  bake  till  nicely 
browned.  Serve  hot,  or  it  will  be  tough  and  hard,  but  when 
properly  cooked  it  will  be  tender  and  savory. 

Meat  or  Fish  Omelet— Make  the  same  as  plain  omelet.  When 
it  is  done,  scatter  thickly  over  the  surface  cold,  boiled  ham, 
tongue,  poultry,  fish,  or  lobster,  chopped  fine,  and  season 
nicely  to  taste ;  slip  the  broad  knife  under  one  side  of  the 
omelet  and  double,  inclosing  the  meat.  Then  upset  the 
frying-pan  upon  a  hot  dish,  so  transferring  the  omelet  with- 
out breaking.  Or  the  minced  meat  may  be  stirred  in  after 
the  ingredients  are  put  together,  and  before  cooking.  Be 
careful  not  to  scorch  the  egg. 

Omelet  with  Oysters. — Allow  one  egg  for  each  person, 
and  beat  yelks  and  whites  separately,  very  light ;  season 
to  taste,  and  just  before  cooking  add  the  oysters,  which  have 
been  previously  scalded  in  their  own  liquor. 


Sandwiches. — Hard  boil  some  fresh  eggs,  and,  when 
cold,  cut  them  into  moderately  thin  slices,  and  lay  them  be- 
tween slices  of  bread  and  butter  cut  thin,  and  season  well 


EGGS.  125 

with  celery  salt.     For  picnic  parties  or  for  traveling,  these 
sandwiches  are  very  nice. 

Deviled  Eggs. — Boil  the  eggs  hard,  remove  the  shell,  and 
cut  in  two  as  preferred.  Remove  the  yelks,  and  add  to  them 
salt,  cayenne  pepper,  melted  butter,  and  mixed  mustard  to 
taste  ;  then  stuff  the  cavities  of  the  hard  whites,  and  put  the 
halves  together  again.  Serve  garnished  with  parsley.  For 
picnics,  etc.,  each  egg  can  be  wrapped  in  tissue  paper  to 
preserve  its  form. 

Pickled  Eggs. — Boil  the  eggs  until  very  hard ;  when  cold, 
shell  them,  and  cut  them  in  halves  lengthways.  Lay  them 
carefully  in  large-mouthed  jars,  and  pour  over  them  scalding 
vinegar,  well  seasoned  with  whole  pepper,  allspice,  a  few 
pieces  of  ginger,  and  a  few  cloves  of  garlic.  When  cold,  tie 
up  closely,  and  let  them  stand  a  month.  They  are  then  fit 
for  use.  With  cold  meat,  they  are  a  most  delicious  and 
delicate  pickle. 

Egg  Balls. — Rub  the  yelks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  with  the 
raw  yelk  of  an  egg,  well  beaten,  and  season  to  taste.  Roll 
this  paste  into  balls  the  size  of  marbles,  adding  flour  if  neces- 
sary to  thicken,  and  boil  two  minutes.  A  valuable  embel- 
lishment and  enrichment  of  soups. 


X.— BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC. 

AN  immense  department  is  opened  up  by  the  title  of  this 
chapter;    and  it  is  a  department  of   immense    im- 
portance.     Bread  is  confessedly  the  "  staff  of  life," 
and,  therefore,  it  should  be  good.     And  whatever  takes  the 
place  of  bread,  be  it  biscuits,  hot  cakes,  muffins,  or  what 
not,  should  also  be  good,  or  nothing  is  gained  by  the 
exchange.     Many  a  housekeeper  can  make  excellent  pies, 
cakes,  etc.,  but  when  bread  is  needed,  she  flies  to  the  bakery, 
confessing  her  total  inability  to  prepare  this  indispensable 
commodity. 

But  even  bread  may  become  distasteful  as  a  steady  diet. 
To  vary  it  with  the  long  line  of  splendid  substitutes  which 
are  possible,  and  which  are  discussed  in  this  chapter,  is  a 
most  desirable  ability.  This  department,  therefore,  is  worthy 
of  every  housewife's  devout  study. 


I.— BREAD. 

ESSENTIALS  TO  MAKING  GOOD  BREAD  J  HOW  TO  KNOW  GOOD  FLOUR  ', 
YEAST  ;  RAISING  BREAD  ;  BAKING  BREAD.  TWELVE  RECIPES  FOR 
BREAD. 

npHREE  things  are  essential  to  the  making  of  good  bread, 
namely,  good  flour,  good  yeast,  and  judicious  baking. 
A  fourth  might  be  added,  experience,  without  which 
none  of  the  domestic  arts  can  be  successfully  carried  on. 

In  selecting  flour,  first  look  to  the  color.  If  it  is  white, 
with  a  yellowish  straw-color  tint,  buy  it.  If  it  is  white,  with 
a  bluish  cast,  or  with  black  specks  in  it,  refuse  it.  Next, 
its  adhesiveness ;  wet  and  knead  a  little  of  it  be- 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC. 

tween  your  fingers ;  if  it  works  soft  and  sticky,  it  is  poor. 
Then  throw  a  little  lump  of  dried  flour  against  a  smooth 
surface ;  if  it  falls  like  powder,  it  is  bad.  Lastly,  squeeze 
some  of  the  flour  tightly  in  your  hand ;  if  it  retains  the 
shape  given  by  the  pressure,  that  too  is  a  good  sign.  It  is 
safe  to  buy  flour  that  will  stand  all  these  tests. 

Good  yeast  may  easily  be  obtained  in  cities,  in  the  form 
of  fresh  yeast  cakes  or  at  the  baker  shops.  Where  access 
cannot  be  had  to  these  aids,  home-made  yeast  must  be 
depended  on,  which  see  under  "  Yeast,"  at  the  end  of  this 
chapter.  After  the  yeast  is  properly  added,  the  dough  must 
stand  several  hours  in  an  even  temperature  of  moderate 
warmth,  so  that  the  process  of  "  rising  "  may  go  on.  This 
is  simply  a  fermenting,  or  leavening,  or  lightening  of  the 
dough.  If  this  process,  by  too  much  heat  or  other  causes, 
goes  too  fast  or  too  far,  sour  bread  is  the  result ;  if  it  goes 
too  slow,  or  not  far  enough,  heavy  bread  is  the  result.  It 
must  go  just  far  enough,  and  just  at  the  right  moment  the 
process  must  be  arrested  by  baking.  The  walls  of  dough 
which  inclose  the  innumerable  vesicles  of  gas  formed  in  the 
fermenting  are  thus  made  firm  around  those  open  spaces, 
and  what  we  know  as  "  light  bread"  is  secured. 

The  baking  is  the  final  test  in  the  case.  The  oven  must 
be  just  right  at  the  outset,  and  must  be  kept  so  as  the 
operation  proceeds.  Experience  must  decide  the  exact  heat 
required,  but  an  oven  in  which  the  bared  arm  may  be  held 
for  about  half  a  minute  is  regarded  as  approximately 
correct. 

Hot  bread,  or  hot  cake,  should  always  be  cut  with  a  hot 
knife.  If  so  cut,  it  will  not  become  clammy. 

RECIPES. 

Wheat  Bread. — Put  seven  pounds  of  flour  into  a  breadpan ; 
hollow  out  the  centre,  and  add  a  quart  of  lukewarm  water, 
& teaspQQnfiii  pf  §ajt,  and  a  wineglassful  of  yeast  Have 


128  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

ready  more  warm  water,  and  add  gradually  as  much  as  will 
make  a  smooth,  soft  dough.  Knead  it  well,  dust  a  little 
flour  over  it,  cover  it  with  a  cloth,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place 
four  hours ;  then  knead  it  again  for  fifteen  minutes  and  let 
it  rise  again.  Divide  it  into  loaves,  and  prick  them  with  a 
fork,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  from  forty  minutes  to  an 
hour. 

Potato  Bread. — Three  and  one-half  quarts  of  sifted  flour, 
three  boiled  potatoes,  one  quart  warm  water,  one  teacupful 
of  yeast,  one  even  tablespoonful  salt.  Mix  at  night ;  put 
the  flour  in  a  large  bowl ;  hollow  a  place  in  the  centre  for 
the  mashed  potatoes,  water,  and  salt.  Stir  in  flour  enough 
to  make  a  smooth  batter ;  add  yeast ;  stir  in  the  rest  of  the 
flour.  Put  the  dough  on  the  floured  board ;  knead  fifteen 
minutes,  using  barely  enough  flour  to  prevent  sticking. 
Flour  the  bowl,  lay  the  dough  in  it,  cover  and  leave  it  to 
rise.  In  the  morning,  divide  in  four  parts ;  mold  into  loaves; 
when  light,  prick,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Salt  Rising  Bread. — Pour  a  pint  of  hot  water  in  a  two-quart 
pail  or  pitcher  on  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt ;  when  it 
has  cooled  a  little,  add  one  and  one-third  pints  of  flour ; 
mix  well,  and  leave  the  pitcher  in  a  kettle  of  water,  as  warm 
as  that  used  for  mixing.  Keep  it  at  the  same  temperature 
until  the  batter  is  nearly  twice  its  original  bulk,  which  will 
be  in  from  five  to  eight  hours.  It  may  be  stirred  once  or 
twice  during  the  rising.  Add  to  this  a  sponge  made  of  one 
quart  of  hot  water,  two  and  one-half  quarts  of  flour — adding 
as  much  more  as  may  be  necessary  to  make  a  soft  dough ; 
mix  well,  and  leave  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  When  light, 
mold  into  loaves,  keeping  them  as  soft  as  possible  ;  lay  in 
buttered  tins.  When  light  again,  prick  and  bake. 

Milk  Bread. — Let  two  quarts  of  milk  come  to  a  boil ;  stand 
it  aside  to  cool,  and  when  it  becomes  tepid,  add  flour  to  it 
gradually  until  it  makes  a  batter  just  soft  enough  to  beat  up 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC.  ]  29 

with  a  spoon.  To  this  add  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
thoroughly  dissolved  in  lukewarm  water.  The  batter  should 
then  be  well  beaten.  Cover  with  a  towel  and  set  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise.  When  light,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt, 
one  of  lard,  one  of  light  brown  sugar,  and  flour  enough  to 
make  a  soft  dough.  Knead  steadily  for  about  half  an  hour. 
This  quantity  should  make  four  or  five  medium-sized  loaves. 
Put  them  in  greased  pans  and  let  them  rise  again.  When 
•light,  prick  with  a  fork  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Vienna  Bread. — The  Vienna  bread  that  became  so  famous 
on  the  Centennial  Exhibition  grounds  in  1876  was  made  on 
the  following  recipe :  Sift  in  a  tin  pan  four  pounds  of  flour ; 
bank  up  against  the  sides ;  pour  in  one  quart  of  milk  and 
water,  and  mix  into  it  enough  flour  to  form  a  thin  batter, 
and  then  quickly  and  lightly  add  one  pint  of  milk,  in  which 
is  dissolved  one  ounce  of  salt  and  one  and  three-quarter 
ounces  of  yeast ;  leave  the  remainder  of  the  flour  against 
the  sides  of  the  pan ;  cover  the  pan  with  a  cloth,  and  set  in 
a  place  free  from  draught  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour ; 
then  mix  in  the  rest  of  the  flour  until  the  dough  will  leave 
the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  pan,  and  let  it  stand  two  and  a 
half  hours  ;  finally,  divide  the  mass  into  one-pound  pieces, 
to  be  cut  in  turn  into  twelve  parts  each ;  this  gives  square 
pieces  about  three  and  a  half  inches  thick,  each  corner  of 
which  is  taken  up  and  folded  over  to  the  centre,  and  then 
the  cases  are  turned  over  on  a  dough-board  to  rise  for  half 
an  hour,  when  they  are  put  in  a  hot  oven  that  will  bake 
them  in  ten  minutes. 

Rye  Bread. — Scald  two  handfuls  of  corn-meal  with  a  quart 
of  boiling  water,  and  add  a  quart  of  milk  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  salt.  When  cool,  add  a  teacupful  of  yeast,  and  enough 
rye  flour  to  make  it  as  stiff  as  wheat-bread  dough.  After 
it  has  risen  put  it  in  pans  and  bake  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Brown  Bread. — Take  one  cup  01  bread-crumbs,  one  pint  of 
9 


130  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

sweet  milk,  one  cup  of  molasses,  butter  the  size  of  an  egg, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  corn-meal  enough  to  make  a  stiff 
batter,  with  salt  to  taste.  Turn  the  whole  into  a  buttered 
basin  and  steam  for  two  hours  ;  then  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
half  an  hour. 

Boston  Brown  Bread.— Take  three  and  three-fourth  cupfuls 
of  Indian  corn-meal,  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  rye-meal,  two- 
thirds  cupful  molasses,  one  quart  milk,  either  sweet  or  sour ; 
two  even  teaspoonfuls  soda,  dissolved  in  the  milk  ;  steam  in 
a  tin  pudding  boiler  five  hours  ;  take  off  the  cover  and  set 
in  the  oven  to  brown. 

Corn  Bread. — Two  heaping  cupfuls  Indian  meal,  one  cup- 
ful wheat  flour,  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  Durkee's  baking- 
powder;  mix  well  together  while  dry;  one  teaspoonful  salt, 
two  tablespoonfuls  white  sugar,  two  eggs,  one  tablespoonful 
lard,  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  cold  milk ;  beat  the  eggs,  melt  the 
lard,  and  dissolve  the  salt  and  sugar  in  the  milk  before  add- 
ing them  to  the  flour ;  bake  in  buttered  pans  in  a  quick  oven. 

Graham  Bread. — Three  quarts  of  Graham  flour ;  one  quart 
of  warm  water;  one  gill  of  yeast;  one  gill  of  sirup; 
one  tablespoonful  of  salt;  one  even  teaspoonful  of  soda. 
Mix  thoroughly  and  put  in  well-buttered  pans  to  rise.  Bake 
about  an  hour  and  a  half. 

This  same  mixture  may  be  thinned  and  baked  in  gem 
pans  for  Graham  gems. 

Rice  Bread. — After  a  pint  of  rice  has  been  boiled  soft,  mix 
it  with  two  quarts  of  rice  flour  or  wheat  flour.  When  cold, 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  yeast,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
enough  milk  to  make  a  soft  dough.  When  it  has  risen, 
bake  in  small  buttered  pans. 

Unleavened  Bread. — Mix  wheat  flour  into  a  stiff  dough 
With  warm  water  or  milk ;  add  a  little  lard,  or  suet,  and  bake 
in  thin  cakes.  Bake  as  soon  as  mixed,  and  eat  hot. 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC. 
II.— TOAST. 

WHAT  TOAST  IS  GOOD   FOR.      SIX  METHODS  OF   PREPARING  TOAST, 

AS  a  palatable  method  of  disposing  of  stale  bread,  as  well 
as  to  furnish  a  variety  of  agreeable  dishes,  toast  is  an 
important  factor  in  the  culinary  economy  of  the  home. 
As  a  dish  for  invalids  it  is  indispensible. 

RECIPES. 

Dry  Toast  is  produced  by  browning  stale  baker's  bread 
over  glowing  coals.  A  toasting  fork,  or  rack,  of  which 
there  are  various  patterns,  is  a  great  convenience.  Do  not 
burn  the  toast,  nor  allow  it  to  be  so  browned  as  to  harden  it. 
It  should  be  eaten  hot,  as  it  becomes  tough  when  allowed 
to  cool. 

Buttered  Toast— For  buttered  toast,  the  slices  should  be 
thicker  than  for  dry  toast.  Butter  the  slices  as  toasted,  and 
keep  warm  until  served.  Excessive  buttering  should  be 
avoided.  - 

Egg  Toast— On  slices  of  buttered  toast  lay  poached  eggs. 
Serve  with  Worcestershire  sauce  for  breakfast. 

French  Toast — Beat  three  eggs  light,  add  one  cupful  of 
milk,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Dip  into  this  slices  of 
bread,  then  fry  them  in  hot  butter  to  a  delicate  brown. 

Milk  Toast — Toast  the  bread  an  even,  delicate  brown,  and 
pile  into  a  hot  dish.  Boil  milk  with  a  little  salt,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  flour,  and  one  of  butter,  rubbed  together;  pour  it  over 
the  toast  and  serve  hot. 

Cream  Toast — Take  slices  of  baker's  bread  from  which 
the  crust  has  been  pared  and  toast  it  to  a  golden  brown. 
Have  on  the  range  a  shallow  bowl  or  pudding-dish,  more 
than  half  full  of  boiling  water,  in  which  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter  has  been  melted.  As  each  slice  is  toasted,  dip  in  thi* 


132  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

for  a  second,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt,  and  lay  in  the  deep 
heated  dish  in  which  it  is  to  be  served.  Have  ready,  by  the 
time  all  the  bread  is  toasted,  a  quart  of  milk  scalding  hot, 
but  not  boiling.  Thicken  this  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
corn-starch  or  best  flour  ;  let  it  simmer  until  cooked ;  put 
in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  when  this  is  melted,  the 
beaten  whites  of  three  eggs.  Boil  up  once,  and  pour  over 
the  toast,  lifting  the  lower  slices  one  by  one,  that  the  creamy 
mixture  may  run  in  between  them.  Cover  closely,  and 
set  in  the  oven  two  or  three  minutes  before  serving. 


III.— FANCY  BREADS. 

FANCY   BREADS   AND   PLAIN  CAKES  ;    THEIR  GENERAL  USEFULNESS. 
EIGHT   RECIPES    FOR  FANCY  BREADS. 

SOME  special  preparations  come  naturally  between  bread 
and    cake.      For    convenient    classification,  they   are 
grouped  here  under  the  title  of  Fancy  Breads,  though 
they  might  as  well  be  classed  as  Plain  Cakes.     They  serve 
a  good  purpose  for  variety,  for  luncheon,  etc.     See  plainer 
forms  of  cakes. 

RECIPES. 

Sally  Lunn.- — One  quart  of  flour,  a  piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  an  egg,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  two  tea- 
cupfuls  of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  tartar,  one  of 
soda,  and  a  little  salt.  Scatter  the  cream  of  tartar,  the  sugar, 
and  the  salt  into  the  flour  ;  add  the  eggs,  the  butter  (melted), 
and  one  cup  of  milk ;  dissolve  the  soda  in  the  remaining  cup, 
and  stir  all  together  steadily  a  few  moments.  Bake  in  two 
round  pans. 

Sally  LtUffl,  No.  2. — Rub  into  a  quart  of  flour  two  teaspoon- 
fells  of  baking-powder ;  beat  together  nearly  half  a  cup  of 


,  BISCUIT,  ito?  CAKES,  ETC. 

butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar ;  put  into  the  flour 
and  mix  with  a  pint  of  milk ;  then  add  two  eggs,  beaten 
light.  Mix  and  bake  as  above. 

Johnny  Cake. — One  quart  of  buttermilk  or  sour  milk,  one 
quart  Indian  meal,  one  quart  of  flour,  one  cup  of  molasses, 
a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  scant  teaspoonfuls  if  the  milk  is 
sour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Bake  in  shallow  pans  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Hoe  Cake. — Scald  one  quart  of  Indian-meal  in  enough  water 
to  make  a  thick  batter ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of 
molasses,  and  two  of  butter.  Bake  on  a  board  before  a  hot 
fire  or  in  a  pan. 

Scotch  Short-cake. — Two  pounds  of  fine  flour,  one  pound 
of  fresh,  sweet  butter,  half  a  pound  of  finest  sifted  sugar ; 
throughly  knead  together  without  water;  roll  out  to 
half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  place  it  on  paper  in  a  shallow 
pan ;  bake  very  slowly  until  of  proper  crispness.  The  cake, 
to  be  good,  must  be  very  brittle. 

Pumpkin  Bread. — Stew  and  strain  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
pumpkin  ;  add  enough  Indian-meal  to  stiffen  it,  with  yeast 
and  a  little  salt;  when  sufficiently  raised,  bake  as  in  ordi- 
nary bread. 

Pone, — This  is  a  dish  prepared  by  the  Indians,  called  also 
paune.  Take  two  cupfuls  of  corn-meal,  two  of  wheat  flour, 
one  o£  sugar,  and  half  a  cup  of  melted  butter.  Add  one 
egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of  soda,  and  two  of  cream 
of  tartar.  Mix  with  enough  milk  to  make  a  moderately 
stiff  batter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Barley  Bread. — In  Scotland,  Norway,  and  other  climates 
where  wheat  is  not  grown,  barley  bread  is  used  extensively. 
It  is  both  wholesome  and  palatable.  Mix  the  barley  meal 
with  warm  water  and  a  little  salt,  but  no  yeast.  Mix  to  a 
stiff  dough,  roll  into  flat  cakes,  and  bake  before  the  fire  or 
in  an  ^>ven.  Eat  hot,  with  butter. 


134  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

IV.— ROLLS. 

A   FAVORITE   BREAKFAST  DISH.       SEVEN  VARIETIES   OF  ROLLS. 

A  FAVORITE  departure  from  the  ordinary  forms  ol 
bread  is  furnished  in  rolls.     They  are  exceedingly  pop- 
ular for  breakfast,  served  warm.     There  are  sufficient 
variations  in  rolls  to  make  them  suitable  for  use  day  after 
day,  if  this  be  desired. 

RECIPES. 

Plain  Rolls. — Boil  six  potatoes  in  two  quarts  of  water,  and 
when  done  pour  and  press  the  whole  through  the  colander ; 
when  cool,  but  not  cold,  add  flour  to  make  a  thick  batter ; 
add  half  a  cup  of  yeast,  or  one-half  cake  of  compressed  yeast, 
and  set  to  rise ;  when  light,  add  half  a  cup  of  lard  and  but- 
ter mixed,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
flour  to  make  a  soft  dough  ;  knead  well  and  set  again  to 
rise ;  when  light,  knead  down  again ;  repeat  three  or  four 
times ;  an  hour  before  they  are  to  be  used  cut  in  small 
pieces,  roll  out,  spread  with  melted  butter,  and  fold  over, 
laying  them  in  a  pan  so  that  they  will  not  touch  each  other ; 
set  them  in  a  warm  place,  and  when  light  bake  quickly.  Or, 
make  into  an  oblong  roll  without  spreading  and  rolling,  and 
just  before  putting  them  into  the  oven,  gash  deeply  across 
the  top  with  a  sharp  knife. 

English  Rolls. — Two  pounds  of  flour,  two  ounces  of  butter, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  yeast,  one  pint  of  warm  milk ;  mix 
well  together,  and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  ;  knead,  and 
make  into  rolls  ;  let  them  rise  again  and  bake  twenty  min- 
utes. 

Breakfest  Rolls. — One  quart  of  sifted  flour,  three  teaspoon- 
fuls  baking-powder,  half  teaspoonful  salt ;  mix  well  together 
dry,  then  add  three  and  half  gills  of  cold  milk,  or  enough 
to  make  it  the  consistency  of  batter,  and  drop  with  a  spooa 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  ftOT  CAKES,  ETC. 

into  gem  baking-pans,  which  should  have  been  previously 
heated  very  hot  and  buttered. 

French  Rolls. — One  pint  of  milk,  scalded ;  put  into  it  while 
hot  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter ; 
when  the  milk  is  cool,  add  a  little  salt  and  half  a  cupful  of 
yeast,  or  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast ;  stir  in  flour  enough 
to  make  a  stiff  sponge,  and  when  light  mix  as  for  bread. 
Let  it  rise  until  light,  punch  it  down  with  the  hand,  and  let 
it  rise  again,  and  repeat  this  process  two  or  three  times  ; 
then  turn  the  dough  on  to  the  molding  board,  and  pound 
with  rolling-pin  until  thin  enough  to  cut.  Cut  out  with  a 
tumbler,  brush  the  surface  of  each  one  with  melted  butter, 
and  fold  over.  Let  the  rolls  rise  on  the  tins ;  bake,  and 
while  warm  brush  over  the  surface  with  melted  butter  to 
make  the  crust  tender. 

Vienna  Rolls. — One  quart  sifted  flour,  two  heaping  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  a  good  baking-powder;  mix  well  while  dry;  then 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  or  lard,  made  a  little  soft  by- 
warming  and  stirring,  and  about  three-fourths  of  a  pint,  or 
enough  cold,  sweet  milk  for  a  dough  of  usual  stiffness,  with 
about  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  dissolved  in  it.  Mix  into  a 
dough  easily  to  be  handled  without  sticking ;  turn  on  the 
board  and  roll  out  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch,  cut  it 
out  with  a  large  cake-cutter,  spread  very  lightly  with  butter, 
fold  one-half  over  the  other,  and  lay  them  in  a  greased  pan 
without  touching.  Wash  them  over  with  a  little  milk,  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Parker  House  Rolls. — One  teacupful  of  yeast,  or  one  cake 
of  compressed  yeast,  a  little  salt,  one  tablespoonful  sugar, 
piece  of  lard  size  of  an  egg,  one  pint  milk,  flour  sufficient  to 
mix.  Put  the  milk  on  the  stove  to  scald  with  the  lard  in  it. 
Prepare  the  flour  with  salt,  sugar,  and  yeast.  Then  add  the 
milk,  not  too  hot.  Knead  thoroughly,  and  when  mixed  set 
to  rise ;  when  light,  knead  again  slightly.  Then  roll  out 


136  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN 

and  cut  with  large  biscuit-cutter.  Spread  a  little  butter  oa 
each  roll  and  lap  together.  Let  them  rise  again  very  light, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Geneva  Rolls. — Into  two  pounds  of  flour  break  three 
ounces  of  butter,  add  a  little  salt,  and  make  into  a  sponge 
with  yeast,  previously  mixed  with  milk  and  water.  Allow 
the  batter  to  rise ;  then  mix  in  two  eggs,  made  lukewarm 
by  the  adding  of  hot  milk,  and  work  the  sponge  to  a  light 
dough.  Let  it  stand  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  longer ; 
mold  into  small  rolls  ;  place  them  in  buttered  pans.  When 
light,  brush  them  with  beaten  yelks  of  eggs,  and  bake  for 
twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour.  Serve  hot 


V.—  BISCUIT,  RUSK,  AND  BUNS. 

SPECIAL  CARE  REQUISITE  IN  THIS  DEPARTMENT  ;  ATTENTION  TO 
INGREDIENTS,  OVEN,  ETC.  ;  HOW  TO  BAKE  THEM  j  BAKING-POW- 
DER BISCUITS,  SODA  BISCUITS,  ETC.  j  CARE  OF  PANS.  FIFTEEN 
RECIPES  FOR  BISCUITS,  BUNS,  ETC. 


REAT  care  is  requisite  in  making  biscuits  that  quantities 
I  y  be  accurately  observed  and  that  the  ingredients  used 
are  of  proper  quality.  Flour  should  be  a  few  months 
old.  New  flour  will  not  make  good  biscuits.  It  should 
always  be  sifted. 

The  oven,  too,  needs  careful  attention.  On  its  condition 
the  success  of  biscuit  baking  will  depend.  Rolls  and  bis- 
cuit should  bake  quickly.  To  make  them  a  nice  color,  rub 
them  over  with  warm  water  just  before  putting  them  into 
the  oven  ;  to  glaze  them,  brush  lightly  with  milk  and  sugar. 

Baking-powder  biscuit  and  soda  biscuit  should  be  made 
as  rapidly  as  possible,  laid  into  hot  pans,  and  put  in  a 
quick  oven.  Gem  pans  should  always  be  heated  and  well 
greased. 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  ffOT  CAKES,  ETC. 
RECIPES. 

Potato  Biscuit. — Pare  ten  potatoes,  boil  them  thoroughly, 
and  mash  fine ;  add  two  cups  of  lukewarm  milk,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  sugar,  half  a  cup  of  yeast,  and  flour 
enough  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Mix  well  and  allow  it  to 
rise.  Then  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  a  little 
salt,  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Let  this  rise 
again ;  roll  into  a  sheet  about  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  into 
cakes.  Set  to  rise  again,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Light  Biscuit. — When  kneading  bread,  set  aside  a  small 
loaf  for  biscuits.  Into  this,  work  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
lard  and  butter  mixed  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  The 
more  it  is  worked  the  whiter  it  will  be.  As  it  rises, 
mold  it  down  twice  before  making  into  biscuit.  Roll  out 
and  cut  with  a  biscuit-cutter.  The  dough  should  be  quite 
soft. 

Soda  Biscuits. — One  quart  of  flour,  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter and  two  of  lard,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoon 
even  full  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda ;  sift 
the  cream  tartar  with  the  flour  dry  ;  rub  the  butter  and  lard 
very  thoroughly  through  it ;  dissolve  the  soda  in  a  pint  of 
milk  and  mix  all  together.  Roll  out,  adding  as  little  flour 
as  possible;  cut  with  a  biscuit-cutter,  and  bake  twenty 
minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

Tea  Biscuit. — Take  one  quart  sifted  flour,  one  tablespoon- 
ful shortening,  half  teaspoonful  salt,  and  two  teaspoonfuls 
Durkee's  baking-powder ;  mix  well  together  dry,  then  add 
sufficient  cold  milk  or  water  to  form  a  very  soft  dough ; 
bake  immediately  in  a  quick  oven. 

Cream  Biscuits. — Dissolve  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  a 
quart  of  sour  cream,  add  to  it  flour  sufficient  to  make  a  soft 
dough  and  a  little  salt ;  or  use  sour  milk,  and  rub  a  table-* 
spoonful  of  butter  into  the  flour. 


138  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Graham  Biscuits. — Take  one  quart  of  water  or  milk,  butte* 
the  size  of  an  egg,  three  tablespoonfuls  sugar,  two  of  baker's 
yeast,  and  a  pinch  of  salt ;  take  enough  white  flour  to  use 
up  the  water,  making  it  the  consistency  of  batter  cakes ; 
add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  and  as  much  Graham  flour 
as  can  be  stirred  in  with  a  spoon ;  set  it  away  till  morning-, 
in  the  morning  grease  the  pan,  flour  your  hands ;  take  a 
lump  of  dough  the  size  of  a  large  egg,  roll  it  lightly  be- 
tween the  palms,  and  let  the  biscuits  rise  twenty  minutes, 
then  bake  in  a  tolerably  hot  oven. 

Maryland  Biscuits. — Take  three  pints  of  sifted  flour,  one 
tablespoonful  of  good  lard,  one  pint  of  cold  water,  salt  to 
the  taste;  make  into  a  stiff  dough ;  work  it  till  it  cracks  or 
blisters,  then  break,  but  do  not  cut  it,  into  suitable  portions, 
and  make  into  biscuits ;  stick  the  top  of  each  with  a  fork 
and  bake. 

Yorkshire  Biscuits. — Make  a  batter  with  flour  sufficient  and 
one  quart  of  boiling  hot  milk.  When  the  batter  has  cooled 
to  lukewarmness,  add  a  teacupful  of  yeast  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Set  to  rise  again  and  let  it  become  very 
light ;  then  stir  in  a  half  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  eggs,  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Add  flour  enough  to 
make  the  dough  into  small,  round  cakes ;  let  them  rise  fifteen 
minutes,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

Short  Biscuits. — Mix  one  quart  of  flour  with  a  quarter 
pound  of  butter  melted  in  boiling  water.  Add  enough  cold 
milk  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Work  into  small  biscuits  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Flavored  Biscuits. — Biscuit  dough  made  as  for  Light  Bis- 
cuit may  be  flavored  with  any  essence,  or  with  lemon  or 
orange  peel,  as  desired. 

Tea  Rusk. — Three  cups  of  flour,  one  cup  of  milk,  three- 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC. 

fourths  of  a  cup  of  sugar,  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  melted ;  two  eggs,  three  teaspoonfuls  baking-powder. 
Let  them  rise,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Glaze  while 
hot  with  white  of  egg,  in  which  has  been  stirred,  not  beaten, 
a  little  powdered  sugar,  or  sift  the  powdered  sugar  in  while 
the  egg  is  still  moist  on  the  top.  Rusks  should  never  be 
eaten  hot. 

Sweet  Rusk. — One  pint  of  warm  milk — new  is  best — one- 
half  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  yeast ;  make  a  sponge 
with  the  milk,  yeast,  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  thin  bat- 
ter, and  let  it  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  add  the 
sugar,  butter,  eggs,  and  salt,  well  beaten  up  together,  with 
enough  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough ;  let  it  rise  again  ;  then 
work  out  into  round  balls,  and  set  to  rise  a  third  time.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

Buns. — One  cupful  of  warm  water,  one  cupful  of  sweet  milk, 
yeast  and  sugar,  with  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter ; 
let  this  rise  over  night ;  in  the  morning  add  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  a  cupful  of  raisins  or  currants,  mold  well ;  let  it  rise  till 
light,  then  make  into  buns ;  rise  again  till  very  light,  and 
bake.  Use  any  spice  desired. 

Hot  Cross  Buns. — Three  cupfuls  sweet  milk  ;  one  cupful  of 
yeast ;  flour  to  make  thick  batter.  Set  this  as  a  sponge  over 
night.  In  the  morning  add  one  cupful  of  sugar ;  one-half 
cupful  butter,  melted ;  half  a  nutmeg ;  one  saltspoonful  salt, 
and  flour  enough  to  roll  out  like  biscuit.  Knead  well,  and 
set  to  rise  five  hours.  Roll  half  an  inch  thick,  cut  into 
round  cakes,  and  lay  in  rows  in  a  buttered  baking-pan. 
When  they  have  stood  half  an  hour,  make  a  cross  upon 
each  with  a  knife,  and  put  instantly  into  the  oven.  Bake  to 
a  light  brown,  and  brush  over  with  a  feather  or  soft  bit  of 
rag,  dipped  in  the  white  of  an  egg  beaten  up  stiff  with  white 
sugar. 


140  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWNJWOK. 

Pop  Overs. — Mix  four  cupfuls  of  flour,  four  cupfuls  4A 
milk,  four  eggs,  and  a  little  salt.  This  quantity  will  make 
about  twenty  puffs  in  gem-pans,  which  must  be  baked  quick 
and  done  to  .  nice  brown. 


VI.— MUFFINS  AND  WAFFLES. 

HOW  MUFFINS  AND  WAFFLES  DIFFER  ;  THEIR  RELATION  TO  OTHER 
KINDRED  PREPARATIONS;   MUFFIN-RINGS  AND  WAFFLE-IRON^ 

WHEN  TO  USE  MUFFINS  AND   WAFFLES  ;    HOW   TO  SERVE  THEBf. 
ELEVEN  RECIPES  FOR  MUFFINS  AND  WAFFLES. 

MUFFINS  are  baked  in  rings  on  a  griddle,  or  in  gem- 
pans,  over  a  quick  fire.  Waffles  are  baked  in  waffle- 
irons,  which  inclose  the  batter  and  imprint  both  sides 
of  the  cake  as  it  rises  in  the  process  of  baking.  Both  muf- 
fins and  waffles  form  a  medium  between  bread  and  biscuits 
on  the  one  side  and  griddle-cakes  on  the  other.  Muffin- 
rings  were  formerly  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  but  now, 
with  better  taste,  they  are  used  much  smaller.  The  approved 
waffle-irons  of  to-day  are  circular,  baking  four  waffles  at 
once,  and  suspended  on  a  pivot  that  permits  them  to  be 
turned  with  a  touch  of  the  fork.  Both  muffins  and  waffles 
are  suitable  for  tea,  and  with  stewed  chicken  and  such  deli- 
cacies they  are  really  delicious.  They  should  always  be 
served  hot  and  with  the  best  of  butter.  Waffles  and  catfish 
are  a  famous  dish  at  some  eating-houses. 

RECIPES. 

Muffins. — Two  eggs  lightly  beaten,  one  quart  of  flour,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  Durkee's  baking- 
powder,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  one  pint  of 
milk,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  extract,  if  liked. 
Beat  up  quickly  to  the  consistency  of  a  cake  batter ;  bake  in 
buttered  gem-pans  in  a  hot  oven. 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC. 

Muffins,  No.  2. — One  cup  of  home-made  yeast  or  half  of  a 
compressed  yeast  cake,  one  pint  of  sweet  milk,  two  eggs, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar.  Beat  the  butter,  sugar,  and  eggs  well  together  ;  then 
stir  in  the  milk,  slightly  warmed,  and  thicken  with  flour  to 
the  consistency  of  griddle-cakes.  When  light,  bake  in  muffin- 
rings  or  on  a  griddle.  If  wanted  for  tea,  the  batter  should 
be  mixed  immediately  after  breakfast.  Muffins  should  never 
be  cut  with  a  knife,  but  be  pulled  open  with  the  fingers. 

Rice  Muffins. — Take  one  quart  of  sour  milk,  three  well- 
beaten  eggs,  a  little  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  enough 
of  rice  flour  to  thicken  to  a  stiff  batter.  Bake  in  rings. 

Hominy  Muffins. — Substitute  hominy,  well  cooked  and 
mashed,  for  the  rice,  and  proceed  as  above. 

Bread  Muffins. — Cut  the  crust  off  four  thick  slices  of  bread ; 
put  them  in  a  pan  and  pour  on  them  just  enough  boiling 
water  to  soak  them  thoroughly.  Let  them  stand  an  hour, 
covered ;  then  drain  off  the  water  and  stir  the  bread  to  a 
smooth  paste.  Stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  a  half 
pint  of  milk,  and  three  well-beaten  eggs.  Bake  to  a  delicate 
brown  in  well-buttered  muffin-rings. 

Graham  Muffins. — One  quart  of  Graham  flour,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  one  egg,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  one-half  tea~ 
spoonful  of  salt,  milk  enough  to  make  a  batter  as  thick  as 
for  griddle-cakes.  Bake  in  gem-pans  or  muffin-rings  in  a 
hot  oven. 

Corn  Muffins. — Mix  two  cupfuls  of  corn-meal,  two  cupfuls 
of  flour,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  melted  butter, 
two  eggs,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Dissolve  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  and  two  of  cream  tartar  in  a  little  milk,  and 
beat  it  through.  Add  milk  enough  to  make  a  moderately 
batter,  and  bake  in  rings  or  gem-pans. 


142  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Crumpets. — Three  cupfuls  of  warm  milk,  half  a  cupful  of 
yeast,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  one  saltspoonful 
each  of  salt  and  soda  dissolved  in  hot  water,  flour  enough 
to  make  a  good  batter.  Set  these  ingredients — leaving  out 
the  butter  and  soda — as  a  sponge.  When  very  light,  beat 
in  the  melted  butter,  with  a  very  little  flour ;  stir  in  the  soda 
hard,  fill  patty-pans  or  muffin-rings  with  the  mixture,  and 
let  them  stand  fifteen  minutes  before  baking. 

Raised  Waffles. — One  quart  of  warm  milk,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter,  three  eggs,  one  gill  of  yeast,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt,  and  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Set  to  rise,  and 
bake  in  waffle-irons,  which  must  be  well  heated  before  used. 

Quick  Waffles. — One  quart  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  Durkee's 
baking-powder,  one  teaspoonful  salt ;  mix  dry ;  then  stir  in 
one  tablespoonful  melted  butter,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
enough  cold,  sweet  milk  for  a  batter  thin  enough  to  pour ; 
bake  at  once  in  waffle-irons. 

Rice  Waffles. — Mix  a  teacupful  and  a  half  of  boiling  rice 
with  a  pint  of  milk,  rubbing  it  smooth  over  the  fire.  Take 
from  the  fire  and  add  a  pint  of  cold  milk  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt.  Stir  in  four  well-beaten  eggs  with  enough  flour  to 
make  a  thin  batter,  and  bake  as  above.  Waffles  should 
always  be  served  hot.  Powdered  sugar  with  a  flavor  of 
powdered  cinnamon  makes  a  pleasing  dressing  for  them. 


VII.—  GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

WHAT  GRIDDLE-CAKES  ARE  j  HINTS  ABOUT  GRIDDLES  J  HOW  TO  COOK 
GRIDDLE-CAKES  ;  HOW  TO  SERVE  THEM  ;  WHEN  TO  SERVE  THEM; 
WITH  WHAT  TO  SERVE  THEM.  TEN  RECIPES  FOR  GRIDDLE-CAKES. 


AKES  made  of  a  batter  so  thin  that  it  flows  easily  upon 
la  griddle,  and  that  can,  therefore,  be  quickly  baked 
and  be  served  hot,  are  griddle-cakes,  and  great  favorites 
they  arc. 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC. 

All  new  griddles  are  hard  to  manage,  but  as  the  only  way 
to  get  old  ones  is  to  make  them  out  of  new  ones,  we  are 
shut  up  to  the  necessity  of  using  the  new,  though  they  do 
not  work  so  well.  Opinions  divide  between  iron  griddles 
and  those  of  soapstone.  The  latter  require  no  greasing. 
Hence  trouble  is  saved,  and  the  smoke  of  the  fat  used  in 
the  constant  greasing  of  a  hot  iron  griddle  is  entirely 
avoided.  But  still,  many  housekeepers  prefer  the  old  style. 

A  hot  griddle  is  essential  to  good  griddle-cakes.  But  it 
must  not  be  hot  enough  to  burn  before  it  bakes.  A  cold 
griddle  will  make  cakes  tough,  unpalatable,  and  decidedly 
unwholesome. 

Hot  cakes  may  be  served  with  powdered  sugar,  molasses, 
maple  sirup,  or  any  other  of  the  many  excellent  sirups  in 
the  market.  Cold  days  are  the  gala  days  for  hot  cakes. 
Time  immemorial,  buckwheat  cakes  and  sausage  have  gone 
to  the  table  side  by  side.  There  is  delightful  harmony  in 
this  union ;  but  to  serve  hot  cakes  and  fish  together  would 
introduce  discord  into  the  best  regulated  family.  There  is 
an  eminent  fitness  between  hot  cakes  and  certain  other 
dishes,  and  it  must  never  be  disregarded. 

RECIPES. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — One  quart  of  buckwheat-meal,  one 
pint  of  wheat-flour  or  Indian-meal,  half  a  teacupful  of  yeast, 
salt  to  taste ;  mix  the  flour,  buckwheat,  and  salt  with  as 
much  water  moderately  warm  as  will  make  it  into  a  thin 
batter;  beat  it  well,  then  add  the  yeast ;  when  well  mixed, 
set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise ;  as  soon  as  it  is  very  light, 
grease  the  griddle  and  bake  the  cakes  to  a  delicate  brown. 
Butter  them  with  good  butter  and  serve  hot. 

Graham  Griddle-cakes. — Scald  a  cupful  of  Indian-meal  in  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  and  strain  it  over  night.  Thin  it  with 
*  quart  of  milk,  and  make  into  a  sponge  with  a  cupful  of 


144  EVERY    WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Graham  flour,  a  large  tablespoonful  of  molasses,  and  half  & 
cupful  of  yeast  In  the  morning,  add  salt  to  taste,  a  cupful 
of  white  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  dissolved  in  hot 
water,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  or  lard.  Stir  in  enough 
water  to  make  batter  of  the  right  consistency,  and  bake  on 
a  hot  griddle. 

Flannel  Cakes. — Three  eggs,  one  quart  of  sweet  milk,  about 
one  quart  of  flour,  a  small  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  prepared  baking-powder ;  beat  the  yelks,  and 
half  of  the  milk,  salt,  and  flour  together  ;  then  the  remainder 
of  the  milk ;  and  last,  the  whites  of  the  eggs  well  beaten. 
Bake  in  small  cakes  on  a  hot  griddle. 

Flannel  Cakes,  No.  2. — One  quart  of  milk,  three  eggs,  one 
cupful  of  yeast,  one  dessertspoonful  of  salt,  flour  enough  for 
a  thinnish  batter,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  butter ;  set  to  rise  ; 
bake  like  buckwheat  cakes.  Cakes  half  Indian  and  half 
wheat  are  very  nice,  and  good  cakes  may  be  made  even 
without  the  eggs. 

Rice  Cakes. — Soak  a  cupful  of  rice  five  or  six  hours  in 
enough  warm  water  to  cover  it.  Then  boil  slowly  till  soft. 
While  still  warm,  but  not  hot,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter, a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
quart  of  milk.  When  cold,  add  three  eggs,  beaten  very 
light.  Sift  a  half  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  into  a 
quarter  cupful  of  rice  flour,  and  add  them  to  the  batter,  first 
beating  into  it  a  quarter  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  hot 
water. 

Rice  Cakes,  No.  2. — Boil  a  cupful  of  rice  until  quite  soft, 
setting  it  aside  until  cool.  Beat  three  eggs  very  light,  and 
put  them  into  the  rice,  with  a  pint  of  flour,  into  which  you 
have  sifted  three  teaspoonfuls  of  prepared  baking-powder. 
Add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  salt,  making  it  into 
$  batter  with  a  quart  of  milk,  Bake  on  a  griddle. 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC. 

Hominy  Cakes. — Mix  with  cold  boiled  hominy  an  equal 
quantity  of  white  flour  until  perfectly  smooth ;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  thin  off  with  buttermilk,  in  part  of 
which  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  has  been  dissolved ;  when  of 
the  proper  consistency  for  griddle  cakes,  add  a  dessertspoon- 
ful of  melted  butter,  and  bake  as  usual. 

Sour  Milk  Cakes. — One  pint  sour  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of 
aoda,  a  little  salt,  two  eggs,  and  flour  to  make  a  thin  batter ; 
bake  on  a  hot  griddle. 

Indian  Griddle  Cakes. — One  large  cupful  Indian-meal,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  wheat  flour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Durkee's 
baking-powder,  one  teaspoonful  salt,  mix  together  dry,  then 
add  sufficient  cold  water  for  a  batter ;  bake  at  once  on  a  hot 
griddle. 

Slapjacks. — One  pint  of  milk,  three  eggs,  one  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  and  one  of  salt,  flour  enough  to  make  a  thin  bat- 
ter. Butter  your  griddle,  and  fry  them  the  size  of  a  tea- 
plate  ;  when  one  is  done,  turn  it  on  the  dish,  sprinkle  with  a 
little  white  sugar,  and  continue  in  this  way  till  they  are  all 
fried.  Always  fry  them  with  butter.  A  little  nutmeg  may 
be  grated  with  the  sugar  on  each  cake. 


VIIL— YEAST  AND  YEAST  CAKES. 

NATURE  OF  YEAST  ;  ACTION  OF  YEAST  IN  DOUGH  ;  CAUSES  OF  LIGHT 
BREAD  AND  HEAVY  BREAD ;  CARE  OF  YEAST.  SIX  RECIPES  FOR 
YEAST  AND  YEAST  CAKES. 

IN  this  chapter,  yeast  has  been  so  often  referred  to  that  its 
special  consideration  seems  important  just  here.     An-» 
alytically   considered,   it    consists    of   an   innumerable 
quantity  of  infinitesimal  fungi,  called  the  yeast-plant.     The 
remarkable  characteristic  of  these   minute  plants  is,  that 
under    fayoring  conditions  they  multiply  to  an  incredible 
*        10 


146  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

extent  in  a  very  short  time.     Thus  the  production  of  yeast; 
in  proper  mixtures,  is  an  easy  matter. 

When  yeast  is  placed  in  dough,  it  immediately  produces 
fermentation,  in  the  process  of  which  gases  are  generated, 
which  permeate  the  dough,  filling  it  with  gas-vessels  and  so 
producing  the  spongy  appearance  so  familiar  in  raised 
bread.  If  this  process  goes  too  far,  it  sours  the  dough  and 
unfits  it  for  food.  If  arrested  by  placing  the  dough  in  a 
hot  oven,  the  gases  will  be  driven  off  by  the  heat,  and  the 
thin  dough  walls  will  be  set  and  baked.  If  the  oven  be 
slow,  the  gases  will  be  driven  off,  the  dough  walls  will  col- 
lapse, and  heavy  bread  will  be  the  result.  The  proper  use 
of  yeast  is  most  important,  therefore.  It  must  be  watched 
as  carefully  as  any  other  tender  plant.  Excessive  heat  of 
cold,  or  rough  mechanical  usage  will  quickly  destroy  it, 

RECIPES. 

Brewer's  Yeast. — This  yeast  is  produced  during  the  process 
of  fermenting  malt  liquors.  It  is  the  most  effective  yeast 
in  use,  being  about  eight  times  the  strength  of  any  other 
kind. 

Hop  Yeast — Boil  four  pounds  of  pared  potatoes  in  three 
quarts  of  water  and  stir  through  a  colander.  Boil  a  hand- 
ful of  hops  in  one  quart  of  water  for  ten  minutes,  and  strain 
this  upon  the  potatoes.  Add  a  half  pint  of  salt,  a  half  pint  of 
sugar,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  ginger.  The  quantity  should 
now  measure  five  quarts.  If  it  be  less,  add  enough  tepid 
water  to  make  the  quantity  correct.  When  lukewarm,  add 
a  half  pint  of  home-brewed  yeast,  mix  thoroughly,  and 
stand  in  a  warm  place  till  bubbles  form  on  the  surface,  which 
indicate  that  it  has  become  light  Cover  the  vessel  contain- 
ing the  yeast,  and  allow  it  to  stand  in  a  dry,  cool  place.  It 
will  keep  well  for  months.  A  gill  of  this  yeast  will  suffice 
for  an  ordinary  baking,  requiring  a  quart  of  water  or  milk, 


BREAD,  BISCUIT,  HOT  CAKES,  ETC.  \±1 

Patent  Yeast. — Boil  two  ounces  of  hops  in  four  quarts  of 
water  for  a  half  hour.  Strain  and  cool  till  lukewarm,  then 
add  a  handful  of  salt,  a  half  pound  of  sugar,  and  a  pound 
of  flour,  all  mixed  well  and  beaten  up  together.  After  it 
has  stood  forty-eight  hours,  add  three  pounds  of  potatoes, 
boiled  and  well-mashed.  Let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours, 
stirring  it  often ;  then  strain  and  bottle.  It  is  ready  for  im- 
mediate use,  or  will  keep  several  months.  Keep  in  a  cool 
place. 

Potato  Yeast — Pare  and  boil  six  potatoes;  mash  them 
through  a  colander  and  mix  with  them  six  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour.  Pour  on  a  quart  of  boiling  water  from  that  in  which 
the  potatoes  were  boiled.  Add  half  a  teacupful  of  sugar,  a 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  when  cool,  a  teacupful  of  home- 
made yeast,  or  one-fourth  the  quantity  of  brewer's  yeast. 

Yeast  Cakes. — Thicken  good  yeast  with  Indian-meal  till  it 
becomes  a  stiff  batter.  A  little  rye  will  make  it  adhere  bet- 
ter. Make  into  cakes  an  inch  thick  and  two  by  three  inches 
in  area.  Dry  them  in  the  air,  but  not  in  the  sun.  Keep 
them  in  a  bag  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  One  of  these  cakes  is 
enough  for  four  quarts  of  flour.  To  use  them,  soak  in 
milk  or  water  several  hours  and  use  as  other  yeast. 

Compressed  Yeast — There  are  many  valuable  preparations 
of  this  yeast,  excellent  in  quality,  and  convenient  to  use. 
They  must  be  fresh,  however,  or  they  will  fail  of  their  pur- 
pose. 


XL— PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS. 

CARE  IN  INGREDIENTS  AND  MANIPULATION  ESSENTIAL  ;  KEEP  IW- 
GREDIENTS  COOL ;  MIX  QUICKLY  ;  HOW  TO  SHORTEN  ;  HOW  TO 
ROLL;  THE  FILLING;  THE  BAKING.  SEVENTY-NINE  RECIPES 
FOR  PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS. 

THAT  pastry  may  be  wholesome  and  appetizing,  great 
care  in  the  selection  of  ingredients  and  in  their    ma- 
nipulation   is    absolutely  essential.      One   fact   must 
always  be  borne  in  mind — that  inferior  ingredients  cannot  be 
made  into  superior  compounds — though  the  finest  ingre- 
dients may  be  ruined  by  careless  or  unskillful  handling. 
Some  suggestions  of  general  application  are  therefore  de- 
sirable. 

Be  careful  to  have  all  the  materials  cool,  and  the  butter  and 
lard  hard ;  use  cold  water  (ice-water  if  convenient) ;  use  a 
cool  knife,  and  work  on  a  marble  slab  if  it  can  be  had. 

Put  the  ingredients  together  quickly,  handling  as  little  as 
possible ;  slow  mixing  and  much  contact  with  the  hands 
or  fingers  make  tough  crust.  Always  use  well-sifted  flour. 

Except  in  puff-paste,  lard  and  butter  in  about  equal  pro- 
portions make  the  best  crust ;  if  made  of  butter  alone,  it  is 
almost  sure  to  be  tough.  That  of  lard  alone,  though  ten- 
der, is  usually  white  and  insipid.  Beef  drippings,  or  the 
drippings  of  fresh  pork,  make  a  very  light  and  palatable 
crust,  lighter  and  more  tender  indeed  than  that  made  with 
butter  alone,  much  better  tasted  than  that  made  with  lard 
alone,  and  quite  equal  to  that  made  with  butter  and  lard 
combined.  Never  use  mutton  drippings  in  crust. 

Use  very  little  salt  and  very  little  water ;  pour  the  latter 
in  gradually,  only  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  unless  you  want 
tough  crust, 

141 


PASTA  Y  AMD  PVbblNGS.  149 

Use  plenty  of  flour  on  your  paste-board,  to  keep  the  paste 
from  sticking.  Work  the  crust  of  one  pie  at  a  time,  and 
always  roll  from  you — one  way  only. 

The  filling  for  the  pie  should  be  perfectly  cool  when  put 
in,  or  it  will  make  the  bottom  crust  heavy. 

In  making  juicy  pies,  cut  a  slit  in  the  top  to  let  the  steam 
escape,  else  the  pie  will  be  puffed  unduly. 

The  oven  should  be  hot,  but  not  sufficiently  so  to  scorch 
or  to  set  the  paste  before  it  has  had  time  to  rise ;  if  too 
slack,  the  paste  will  not  rise  at  all,  but  will  be  white  and 
clammy.  The  best  paste  has  a  tinge  of  yellow.  If  per- 
emitted  to  scorch  or  brown,  even  the  best  paste  becomes 
rancid. 

RECIPES. 

Pie  Crust. — Take  one-half  cupful  of  lard,  one-half  cupful 
of  butter,  one  quart  of  sifted  flour,  one  cupful  of  cold  water 
and  a  little  salt.  Rub  the  butter  and  lard  slightly  into  the 
flour ;  wet  it  with  the  water,  mixing  it  as  little  as  possible. 
This  quantity  will  make  two  large  or  three  small  pies. 

Pie  Crust  Glaze. — To  prevent  juice  from  soaking  the  under 
crust,  beat  up  the  white  of  an  egg,  and  before  filling  the  pie, 
brush  over  the  crust  with  the  beaten  egg.  Brush  over  the 
top  crust  also,  to  give  it  a  beautiful  yellow  brown. 

Puff  Paste. — Take  one  pound  of  sifted  flour,  on  which 
sprinkle  a  very  little  sugar ;  take  the  yelks  of  one  or  two 
eggs,  and  beat  into  them  a  little  ice-water,  and  pour  gently 
into  the  centre  of  the  flour,  and  work  into  a  firm  paste, 
adding  water  as  is  necessary;  divide  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  or  a  pound  of  firm,  solid  butter,  as  you  prefer,  into 
three  parts ;  roll  out  the  paste,  and  spread  one  part  of  the 
butter  on  half  of  the  paste ;  fold  the  other  half  over,  and 
roll  out  again,  repeating  the  process  until  the  butter  is  all 
rolled  in ;  then  set  the  paste  on  the  ice  for  fifteen  or  twenty 


160  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

minutes,  after  which  roll  out  again  three  times,  each  time 
rolling  it  the  opposite  direction ;  then  put  on  the  ice  again 
until  cold,  when  it  is  ready  for  use.  Such  paste  will  keep 
several  days  in  a  refrigerator,  but  should  not  be  allowed  to 
freeze. 

Paste  Shells. — Take  sufficient  rich  puff-paste  prepared  as 
in  the  preceding  recipe,  roll  very  thin,  cut  to  shape,  and  bake 
in  a  brisk  oven  in  tin  pans.  Baked  carefully,  before  fill- 
ing with  fruit,  the  paste  rises  better.  When  cool,  the  shells 
may  be  filled  with  stewed  fruit,  jelly,  preserves,  rich  cream 
whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  raspberries,  strawberries,  or  sliced 
peaches.  These  are  delicious  light  desserts.  Raspberries, 
strawberries,  or  sliced  peaches,  smothered  with  whipped 
cream  on  these  shells,  are  really  exquisite. 

Apple  Pie. — Line  a  pie  plate  with  paste,  and  fill  it  heaping 
full  with  tart  apples,  sliced  very  thin.  Sweeten  and  spice  to 
taste,  mixing  well  into  the  apples.  Put  in  plenty  of  butter, 
and  moisten  well  with  cream.  Bake  until  the  apples  are 
thoroughly  done.  Use  no  upper  crust. 

Apple  Meringue  Pie. — Stew  and  sweeten  ripe,  juicy  apples. 
Mash  smooth,  and  season  with  nutmeg.  Fill  the  crust,  and 
bake  until  just  done.  Spread  over  the  apple  a  thick  me- 
ringue, made  by  whipping  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  tor  each  pie,  sweetening  with  a  tablespoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar  for  each  egg.  Flavor  this  with  vanilla ;  beat 
until  it  will  stand  alone,  and  cover  the  pie  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  thick.  Set  back  in  the  oven  until  the  meringue  is 
well  set.  Eat  cold. 

Peach  Meringue  Pie. — Proceed  as  above  in  all  respects, 
simply  substituting  peaches  for  apples.  Whipped  cream 
will  make  a  delightful  substitute  for  the  whipped  egg  in 
either  of  these  meringue  pies. 

Peach  Pie, — Bake  rich  shells  about  two-thirds  done;  if 
your  peaches  are  fully  ripe,  cut  them  into  halves  or  quarters. 


PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS.  \§\ 

put  in  the  shell,  sweeten  and  flavor  to  taste,  cover  or  not  as 
you  choose,  and  finish  baking  in  a  quick  oven;  if  the 
peaches  are  ripe,  but  not  soft,  it  will  improve  the  flavor  to 
sugar  them  down  some  hours  before  you  wish  to  use  them ; 
if  not  ripe,  they  should  be  stewed. 

Gooseberry  Pie. — Stew  the  gooseberries  with  plenty  of 
white  sugar,  and  use  plain  puff-paste  for  crust. 

Cherry  Pie, — Having  removed  the  stones,  put  in  sugar  as 
may  be  needed,  and  stew  the  cherries  slowly  till  they  are 
quite  done,  if  you  use  shells,  or  till  nearly  done  if  you  use 
paste.  A  few  of  the  pits  added  in  stewing  increase  the 
richness  of  the  flavor ;  but  they  should  not  go  into  the  pies. 
If  baked  slowly  the  cherries  need  not  be  stewed  at  all. 

Rhubarb  Pie. — Remove  the  skin  from  the  stalks  ;  cut  them 
in  small  pieces ;  pour  boiling  water  over  and  let  stand  for 
ten  minutes ;  drain  thoroughly ;  then  fill  the  pie-dish  evenly 
full ;  put  in  plenty  of  sugar,  a  little  butter,  and  dredge  a 
trifle  of  flour  evenly  over  the  top ;  cover  with  a  thin  crust, 
and  bake  the  same  as  apple  pie.  Equal  quantities  of  apple 
and  rhubarb  used  in  the  same  manner  make  a  very  good  pie. 

Pumpkin  Pie. — Stew  the  pumpkin  until  thoroughly  done, 
and  pass  it  through  a  colander.  To  one  quart  of  stewed 
pumpkin,  add  three  eggs,  and  one  pint  of  milk.  Sweeten, 
and  spice  with  ground  ginger  and  cinnamon  to  taste.  Add 
butter,  rose  water,  and  a  little  brandy.  The  quantity  of 
milk  used  will  vary  as  the  pumpkin  may  be  moist  or  dry. 

Sweet  Potato  Pie. — Scrape  clean  two  good-sized  sweet  pota- 
toes ;  boil ;  when  tender,  rub  through  the  colander ;  beat 
the  yelks  of  three  eggs  light ;  stir  with  a  pint  of  sweet  milk 
into  the  potato ;  add  a  small  teacupful  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of 
salt;  flavor  with  a  little  fresh  lemon,  or  lemon  extract; 
bake  to  a  nice  brown  ;  when  done,  make  a  meringue  top  with 
the  whites  of  eggs  and  powdered  sugar;  brown  this  a 
moment  in  the  oven. 


EVERY  WOMAN'  HER  OWN  COO  1C. 

Custard  Pie. — Take  one  quart  of  milk,  five  eggs,  four  table* 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Sift  over  the 
top  Durkee's  mixed  spice. 

Lemon  Pie. — Let  two  cupfuls  of  water  come  to  a  boil ;  put 
in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  dissolved.  When  it 
has  boiled  enough,  take  it  from  the  stove,  add  the  juice  and 
rind  of  two  lemons,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  the  yelks  of  two  eggs.  Beat  the 
whites  of  these  eggs  with  pulverized  sugar,  and  put  on  the 
top  of  the  pies  when  done.  Put  into  the  oven  to  brown. 

Orange  Pie. — Beat  the  yelks  of  three  eggs  until  light,  and 
add  to  them  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  orange,  three- 
quarters  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  corn- 
starch  mixed  in  half  a  cupful  of  water.  Bake  without 
upper  crust,  using  the  whites  of  the  eggs  for  meringue. 

Cream  Pie. — One  pint  of  milk,  scalded ;  two  tablespoonfula 
of  corn-starch,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  yelks  of  two 
eggs.  Wet  the  starch  with  a  little  cold  milk ;  beat  the  eggs 
and  sugar  until  light,  and  stir  the  whole  into  the  scalding 
milk.  Flavor  with  lemon  or  vanilla,  and  set  aside  to  cool. 
Line  a  plate  with  pie-crust  and  bake ;  fill  it  with  the  cream, 
and  cover  with  frosting  made  of  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
beaten  dry,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Bake  to  a 
delicate  brown. 

Cocoamit  Pie. — One  quart  of  milk,  half  a  pound  of  grated 
cocoanut,  three  eggs,  six  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg.  Bake  in  open  shells. 

Cheese-cake  Pie. — This  may  be  made  from  the  above  recipe, 
substituting  cottage-cheese  for  the  cocoanut.  Sprinkle  the 
top  with  Durkee's  mixed  spices. 

Mince  Pie. — Seven  pounds  of  beef,  three  and  a  half  pounds 
of  beef  suet,  five  pounds  of  raisins,  two  pounds  of  currants, 
one-half  peck  of  apples,  four  pounds  of  sugar,  three-quarters 


PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS.  15$ 

of  a  pound  of  citron,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  preserved 
lemon,  two  large  oranges,  four  nutmegs,  half  an  onnce  of 
cinnamon,  half  an  ounce  of  cloves,  and  three  pints  of  brandy. 
This  quantity  of  mince-meat  will  make  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  pies.  When  making  the  pies,  moisten  the  meat 
with  sweet  cider. 

Tarts. — Use  the  best  of  puff-paste;  roll  it  out  a  little 
thicker  than  pie-crust,  and  cut  with  a  large  biscuit-cutter 
twice  as  many  as  you  intend  to  have  of  tarts.  Then  cut 
out  of  half  of  these  a  small  round  in  the  centre,  which  will 
leave  a  circular  rim  of  crust ;  lift  this  up  carefully,  and  lay 
it  on  the  other  pieces.  Bake  in  pans,  so  providing  both  the 
bottom  and  tfie  top  crusts.  Fill  with  any  kind  of  preserves, 
jam,  or  jelly. 

Pineapple  Tart. — Take  a  fine,  large,  ripe  pineapple;  re- 
move the  leaves  and  quarter  it  without  paring,  grate  it  down 
till  you  come  to  the  rind ;  strew  plenty  of  powdered  sugar 
over  the  grated  fruit;  cover  it,  and  let  it  rest  for  an  hour; 
then  put  it  into  a  porcelain  kettle,  and  steam  in  its  own  sirup 
till  perfectly  soft ;  have  ready  some  empty  shells  of  puff- 
paste,  or  bake  in  patty-pans.  When  they  are  cool,  fill  them 
full  with  the  grated  pineapple;  add  more  sugar,  and  lay 
round  the  rim  a  border  of  puff-paste. 

Tea  Baskets. — Make  a  short,  sweetened  pie-crust ;  roll  thin, 
and  partly  bake  in  sheets  ;  before  it  is  quite  done  take  from 
the  oven,  cut  in  squares  of  four  inches  or  so,  take  up  two 
diagonal  corners  and  pinch  together,  which  makes  them 
basket-shaped ;  now  fill  with  whipped  cream,  or  white  of 
egg,  or  both,  well  sweetened  and  flavored,  and  return  to  the 
oven  for  a  few  minutes. 

Strawberry  Short-cake. — Make  a  good  biscuit  crust,  and 
roll  out  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  into 
two  oakes  the  same  size  and  shape ;  spread  one  over  lightly 

melted  butter,  an<J  Jay  the  other  over  it,  and  bake  m  a 


154  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

hot  oven.  When  done,  they  will  fall  apart.  Butter  them 
well  as  usual.  Mix  the  berries  with  plenty  of  sugar,  and 
set  in  a  warm  place  until  needed.  Spread  the  berries  and 
cakes  in  alternate  layers,  berries  on  the  top,  and  over  all 
spread  whipped  cream  or  charlotte  russe.  The  juice  that 
has  run  from  the  fruit  can  be  sent  to  the  table  in  a  tureen 
and  served  with  the  cake  as  it  is  cut. 

Strawberry  Shorttake,  No.  2. — Take  one  quart  of  flour  and 
sift  into  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sea-foam,  a  little  salt,  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter  rubbed  in,  with  milk  enough  to  moisten 
properly.  Handle  as  little  as  possible,  divide  into  two  parts, 
roll  each  flat,  and  place  in  two  jelly  pans.  Bake  quickly, 
then  split  apart  the  top  and  bottom  of  each  crust ;  spread  on 
plenty  of  butter,  have  the  strawberries  washed  and  drained 
in  a  sieve,  crush  them  slightly,  and  sweeten  well.  Spread 
plenty  of  berries  over  each  layer  of  the  crust,  and  have  some 
of  the  crushed  and  sweetened  berries  in  a  deep  dish.  When 
the  cake  is  cut  and  served,  cover  each  piece  with  the  crushed 
berries,  using  this  as  sauce. 

Batter  Pudding. — Beat  the  yelks  and  whites  of  four  eggs 
separately,  and  mix  them  with  six  or  eight  ounces  of  flour 
and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  Make  the  batter  of  the  proper 
consistency  by  adding  a  little  more  than  a  pint  of  milk ;  mix 
carefully;  butter  a  baking-tin,  pour  the  mixture  into  it,  and 
bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve  with  vanilla  sauce. 

Apple  Batter  Pudding. — Core  and  peel  eight  apples,  put  in 
a  dish,  fill  the  places  from  which  the  cores  have  been  taken 
with  brown  sugar,  cover  and  bake.  Beat  the  yelks  of  four 
GSSS  lignt»  add  two  teacupfuls  of  flour,  with  three  even  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder  sifted  with  it,  one  pint  of  milk, 
and  teaspoonful  of  salt,  then  the  whites  well  beaten ;  pour 
over  the  apples  and  bake.  Use  sauce  with  it. 

Suet  Pudding,— Take  a  pint  of  milk,  two  eggs  well  beaten, 
balf  a  pound  of  finely  chopped  suet,  and  a  teaspoonful  ot 


PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS.  155 

salt.  Add  flour  gradually  till  you  have  a  pretty  thick  batter  j 
boil  two  hours,  and  eat  with  molasses. 

Suet  Pudding,  No.  2. — One  cupful  of  suet  or  butter,  one  cup- 
ful of  molasses,  one  bowlful  of  raisins  and  currants,  one  egg, 
one  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  dis- 
solved in  milk ;  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  and  one- 
half  of  nutmeg.  Mix  stiff  with  flour  and  steam  three  hours. 
A  fine  sauce  for  this  pudding  may  be  made  thus :  One  cup- 
ful of  butter  and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  beat  into  a  cream ; 
add  three  eggs  beaten  very  light ;  stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  boiling  water.  Flavor  with  wine,  brandy,  or  vanilla. 

Hasty  Pudding. — Wet  a  heaping  cupful  of  Indian-meal  and 
a  half  cupful  of  flour  with  a  pint  of  milk ;  stir  it  into  a  quart 
of  boiling  water.  Boil  hard  for  half  an  hour,  stirring  from 
the  bottom  almost  constantly.  Put  in  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  simmer  ten  minutes 
longer.  Turn  into  a  deep,  uncovered  dish,  and  eat  with 
sugar  and  cream,  or  sugar  and  butter  with  nutmeg. 

Baked  Hasty  Pudding. — Take  from  a  pint  of  new  milk  suffi- 
cient to  mix  into  a  thin  batter  two  ounces  of  flour,  put  the 
remainder,  with  a  small  pinch  of  salt,  into  a  clean  saucepan, 
and  when  it  boils  quickly,  stir  the  flour  briskly  to  it ;  keep 
it  stirred  over  a  gentle  fire  for  ten  minutes,  pour  it  out,  and 
when  it  has  become  a  little  cool,  mix  with  it  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  three  of  powdered  sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  a 
small  lemon,  four  large  or  five  small  eggs,  and  half  a  glass 
of  brandy  or  as  much  orange-flower  water.  Bake  the  pud- 
ding half  an  hour  in  a  gentle  oven. 

Minute  Pudding. — Take  six  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,  one  cupful  of  flour,  a  lump  of  butter  large  as  an  egg, 
and  half  a  nutmeg ;  you  may  add,  if  desired,  a  half  pound 
of  raisins  ;  mix  well  and  bake  quick. 

padding.— Twelve  ears  pf  sweet  cpro  grated  t 


156  t    EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

quart  of  sweet  milk ;  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  but* 
ter,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  four  eggs ;  bake  from 
three  to  four  hours. 

Farina  Pudding. — Boil  one  quart  of  milk,  stir  in  slowly 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  farina,  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes  ;  beat 
two  eggs  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  with  one  pint  of 
milk,  and  mix  thoroughly  with  the  farina ;  when  it  has 
cooled  so  as  to  be  little  more  than  lukewarm,  put  in  pans, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

Plain  Tapioca  Pudding.— A  cup  not  quite  full  of  tapioca  to 
a  quart  of  milk ;  let  it  stand  on  the  side  of  the  range  till  it 
swells;  add  while  hot  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  cupful 
of  white  sugar,  and  let  it  cool ;  then  add  five  eggs  (three 
will  do  quite  well),  well  beaten,  and  flavor  to  your  taste.  To 
be  baked  from  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour.  It  is 
very  nice  when  dressed  with  wine  sauce,  but  may  be  eaten 
with  plainer  dressing. 

Tapioca-Vi'i  Apple  Pudding.— One  cofleecupful  of  Durkee's 
farina-tapioca,  one  dozen  good-flavored,  tart  apples,  pared 
and  cored,  one  quart  of  water,  a  little  salt.  Cover  the 
tapioca  with  the  water,  and  set  it  in  a  tolerably  warm  place 
to  soak  five  or  six  hours,  stirring  occasionally.  Lay  the 
apples  in  a  deep  dish,  put  a  little  sugar  and  spice  in  the 
centre,  pour  over  the  tapioca,  and  bake  one  hour. 

Peaches  may  be  substituted  for  apples,  which  will  make  a 
delightful  dish.  Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

Vermicelli  Pudding. — Into  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  milk 
drop  four  ounces  of  fresh  vermicelli,  and  keep  it  simmering 
and  stirred  up  gently  ten  minutes,  when  it  will  have  become 
very  thick ;  then  mix  with  it  three  and  one-half  ounces  of 
sugar,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  a  little  salt.  When  the 
whole  is  well  blended,  pour  it  out,  beat  it  for  a  few  minutes 
to  cool  it,  then  add  by  degrees  four  well-beaten  eggs,  and  the 


PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS.  157 

grated  rind  of  a  lemon ;  pour  a  little  clarified  butter  over  the 
top ;  bake  it  from  one-half  to  three-fourths  of  an  hour. 

Sago  Pudding, — Two  large  spoonfuls  of  sago  boiled  in  one 
quart  of  water,  the  peel  of  one  lemon,  a  little  nutmeg ;  when 
cold  add  four  eggs  and  a  little  salt.  Bake  about  one  hour 
and  a  half.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Arrow-root  Pudding. — Boil  one  quart  of  milk,  and  stir  into 
it  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  arrow-root  dissolved  in  a 
little  milk,  mixed  with  four  well-beaten  eggs  and  two  table* 
spoonfuls  of  white  sugar.  Boil  three  minutes.  Eat  with 
cream  and  sugar.  This  pudding  is  improved  by  flavoring 
with  lemon.  It  should  be  prepared  for  table  by  pouring  into 
wet  molds. 

Cocoanut  Pudding.— One  cocoanut  finely  grated  (use  both 
the  meat  and  milk),  one  quart  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
five  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  rose-water.  Boil  the  milk,  and  *wir  upon  the 
cocoanut,  add  the  eggs  well  beaten,  and  the>«uJier  ingre- 
dients, and  bake  in  a  deep  dish,  with  or  without  an  under- 
crust. 

Cocoanut  Pudding,  No.  2.— Put  a  pint  of  milk  to  boil  in  a 
farina  kettle.  Take  four  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  and 
dissolve  it  in  a  little  cold  milk,  then  stir  it  into  the  boiling 
milk.  Add  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  the  well-beaten  whites  of 
four  eggs,  half  a  grated  cocoanut,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  va- 
nilla extract ;  turn  into  a  mold  to  cool.  For  a  suitable  sauce 
put  a  pint  of  milk  to  boil,  beat  the  yelks  of  four  eggs  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  till  light,  then  add  the  boiling 
milk,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  Cook  for  two 
minutes  in  a  farina  kettle,  then  turn  out  to  cool. 

Rice  Pudding. — One  quart  of  milk,  three  eggs,  half  a  cup- 
ful of  rice,  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful 
of  butter,  one  cupful  of  raisins,  seeded.  Soak  the  rice  in  a 


158  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

pint  of  the  milk  an  hour,  then  set  the  saucepan  containing 
it  where  it  will  slowly  heat  to  a  boil.  Boil  five  minutes ;  re- 
move and  let  it  cool.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  sugar  and  but- 
ter, the  rice  and  the  milk  in  which  it  was  cooked,  with  the 
pint  of  unboiled  milk,  and  finally  the  raisins.  Grate  nut- 
meg on  the  top,  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or 
until  the  custard  is  well  set  and  of  a  light  brown.  Serve 
with  hard  brandy  sauce. 

Bice  Pudding,  No.  2. — Three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  soaked 
rice,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  three  pints  of  milk,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter.  Season  with  lemon  rind  or  spice  to 
taste.  Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Cottage  Pudding. — Three  cupfuls  flour,  or  sufficient  to 
make  the  batter ;  one  teaspoonful  butter,  one  cupful  sugar, 
two  eggs,  one  cupful  milk,  half  a  teaspoonful  soda,  one  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  cream  of  tartar  and  salt ;  mix  the  cream 
of  tartar  with  the  flour,  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs ;  put 
the  butter,  sugar,  and  yelks  of  the  eggs  together;  then 
work  in  the  milk,  soda,  and  salt,  adding  gradually  the  flour 
and  whites  of  the  eggs ;  there  should  be  flour  enough  to 
make  a  fairly  stiff  batter ;  butter  a  mold  or  dish,  and  bake ; 
it  may  be  turned  out  or  served  from  the  dish ;  to  be  eaten 
with  any  liquid  sauce. 

Rennet  Pudding. — Take  one  quart  of  milk,  and  warm  it 
enough  to  remove  the  chill ;  in  summer  it  does  not  need 
warming  at  all ;  stir  into  it  three  tablespoonfuls  of  granu- 
lated sugar,  two  of  rose-water,  and  four  of  rennet  wine ;  stir 
it  gently,  not  more  than  a  minute  ;  let  it  stand,  and  do  not 
move  it  till  it  is  curdled,  then  place  it  gently  in  the  ice  chest 
and  grate  nutmeg  on  the  top.  Be  careful  not  to  shake  it  in 
moving,  for  if  the  curd  is  disturbed  it  will  turn  to  whey. 

Lemon  Pudding,— Take  the  yellow  part  of  the  rind  of  one, 
find  the  juice  of  two  large,  juicy  lemons.  Beat  to  a  cream  half 
&  pound  pf  butter,  and  the  same  of  powdered  sugar,  Beat; 


PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS.  159 

six  eggs  very  light,  and  stir  them  gradually  into  the  mix- 
ture. Add  a  glass  of  wine  or  brandy.  Put  the  whole  into 
a  dish  with  a  broad  edge ;  put  round  two  of  three  layers  of 
puff-paste.  Bake  half  an  hour,  and  when  cold  sprinkle  white 
sugar  over  it.  Oranges  may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  To 
be  eaten  cold. 

Orange  Pudding. — Two  oranges — the  juice  of  both  and 
grated  peel  of  one;  juice  of  one  lemon;  one  half-pound 
lady's-fingers — stale  and  crumbled ;  two  cupfuls  of  milk ; 
four  eggs,  one-half  cupful  sugar;  one  tablespoonful  corn* 
starch,  wet  with  water ;  one  tablespoonful  butter,  melted. 
Soak  the  crumbs  in  the  cold  milk,  whip  up  light,  and  add  the 
eggs  and  sugar,  already  beaten  to  a  cream  with  the  batter. 
Next  add  the  corn-starch,  and  when  the  mold  is  buttered 
and  water  boiling  hard,  stir  in  the  juice  and  peel  of  the 
fruit.  Do  this  quickly,  and  plunge  the  mold  directly  into 
the  hot  water.  Boil  one  hour ;  turn  out  and  eat  with  very 
sweet  brandy  sauce. 

Apple  Pudding. — Fill  an  earthen  baking-dish  with  finely 
chopped  apples;  season  -with  sugar  and  nutmeg,  add  a 
little  water,  set  it  on  the  back  of  the  range  until  the  apples 
are  tender ;  then  make  a  crust  of  one  teacupful  of  sweet 
milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  baking-powder,  flour  enough  to  roll  out;  lay  the  crust 
on  top  of  the  apples  and  bake.  To  be  eaten  hot  with  sweet 
sauce,  flavored  with  lemon  or  vanilla.  Other  kinds  of  fruit 
may  be  used  in  the  same  manner. 

Bread  Pudding. — One  pint  bread-crumbs ;  one  quart  milk ; 
rind  of  one  lemon  grated  into  milk ;  yelks  four  eggs,  beaten 
and  mixed  with  one-half  cupful  sugar.  Bake  one-half  hour. 
Spread  meringue  on  top. 

Fruit  Bread  Pudding. — Soak  three  large  cupfuls  of  very  fine 
bread-crurnbs,  through  which  has  been  mixed  two  teaspoon- 
fete  pf  cream,  tartar,  in  a  quart  of  milk;  next  beat  io  three 


160  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

eggs  well  whipped,  and  a  cupful  of  sugar ;  add  half  a  cup* 
ful  of  finely  chopped  suet,  a  little  salt,  nutmeg,  and  cinna- 
mon. Whip  the  batter  very  light,  and  then  add  fruit  as  fol- 
lows, it  having  been  well  dredged  wvth  flour :  Half  pound 
of  raisins,  seeded  and  cut  in  too  ;  one  tablespoonful  of  finely 
sliced  citron ;  half  a  pound  of  Sultana  raisins,  washed  well 
and  dried.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  dissolved  in  hot 
water ;  heat  for  three  minutes ;  put  into  a  buttered  mold, 
and  boil  hard  for  two  hours.  Eat  with  brandy  sauce. 

Delmonico  Pudding. — One  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs,  using 
the  white  of  one  only ;  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  one  cupful  of  cocoanut,  a  little 
salt.  Put  the  milk  in  a  farina  boiler  to  scald ;  wet  the  starch 
in  cold  milk ;  beat  the  eggs  and  sugar,  and  stir  all  into  the 
scalding  milk  ;  add  the  cocoanut,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a 
pudding-dish  ;  whip  dry  the  three  whites,  reserved  as  above, 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar ;  flavor  with  lemon  or 
vanilla ;  spread  over  the  pudding  and  bake  a  light  brown. 
Eat  hot  or  cold. 

Almond  Pudding. — Turn  boiling  water  on  to  three-fourths 
of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  ;  let  it  remain  until  the  skin 
comes  off  easily ;  rub  with  a  dry  cloth  ;  when  dry,  pound 
fine  with  one  large  spoonful  of  rose-water ;  beat  six  eggs  to 
a  stiff  froth  with  three  spoonfuls  of  fine  white  sugar ;  mix 
with  one  quart  of  milk,  three  spoonfuls  of  pounded  crackers, 
four  ounces  of  melted  butter,  and  the  same  of  citron  cut 
into  bits ;  add  almonds ;  stir  all  together,  and  bake  in  a 
small  pudding-dish  with  a  lining  and  rim  of  pastry.  This 
pudding  is  best  when  cold.  It  will  bake  in  half  an  hour  in 
a  quick  oven. 

Cup  Custard. — One  quart  of  milk,  five  eggs,  teaspoonful  of 
butter,  sugar  to  taste.  Pour  into  buttered  cups,  season  with 
Durkee's  mixed  spices,  and  bake,  This  can  be  baked  in  a 
pudding-pan,  if  preferred. 


PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS. 

Rice  Custard.— Into  a  quart  of  boiling  water  stir  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  rice  flour,  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  milk ; 
add  two  well-beaten  eggs  to  the  boiling  mixture ;  sweeten 
and  flavor  to  taste. 

Chocolate  Custard. — Three  pints  of  sweet  milk,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch,  and  two  eggs.  Put  the  chocolate  and  a  little  milk 
on  to  boil,  stir  it  until  smooth,  then  add  a  little  cold  milk. 
Beat  up  the  eggs  in  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  and  pour  all 
into  the  chocolate.  Stir  until  it  thickens ;  take  off  the  fire, 
and  add  sugar  and  vanilla  to  taste.  Place  in  a  glass  dish, 
and  when  cold,  drop  large  spoonfuls  of  the  whites  of  eggs, 
beaten  very  light  with  sugar,  over  the  top,  in  the  centre  of 
each,  a  little  currant  jelly.  This  makes  a  very  ornamental, 
as  well  as  palatable  dish. 

Chocolate  Pudding. — Make  a  corn-starch  pudding  with  a 
quart  of  milk,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  When  done,  remove  about  half 
and  flavor  to  taste,  and  then  to  that  remaining  in  the  kettle 
add  an  egg  beaten  very  light  and  two  ounces  of  vanilla 
chocolate.  Put  in  a  mold,  alternating  the  dark  and  light, 
and  serve  with  whipped  cream. 

Baked  Indian  Pudding. — Boil  one  pint  of  milk ;  while  boil- 
ing stir  in  one  cupful  of  Indian-meal ;  let  it  cool  a  little,  and 
add  three  eggs  well-beaten,  one  pint  of  cold  milk,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  one-half  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
molasses,  one  teaspoonful  of  ginger,  one  of  cinnamon,  and  a 
little  salt.  Bake  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Queen's  Pudding. — One  pint  of  bread-crumbs,  one  quart  of 
milk,  yelks  of  four  eggs,  rind  of  one  lemon;  sweeten  to  taste. 
Bake  as  a  custard.  After  baking,  spread  the  top  with  cur- 
rant jelly.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  add  to  them  one 
cupful  of  sugar  dissolved  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Spread 
this  over  the  pudding,  and  brown. 
11 


EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Brown  Betty. — One  loaf  of  stale  bread  crumbled  fine,  one- 
half  cupful  of  milk,  and  twelve  apples.  Alternate  layers  of 
bread  and  sliced  apples,  sugared,  buttered,  and  spiced. 
Moisten  with  the  milk.  Bake  in  a  tin  pudding-pan  for  three 
hours. 

Poor  Man's  Plum  Pndding. — One  cupful  of  molasses,  one 
cupful  of  suet  chopped  very  fine,  beaten  smoothly  together ; 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  of  soda  mixed  through  a 
half-pound  of  flour,  one  pint  of  milk,  one  pound  of  raisins, 
seeded  and  chopped,  and  a  half-pound  of  sliced  citron.  Boil 
three  hours. 

English  Plnm  Pudding. — Two  pounds  of  chopped  suet, 
three  pounds  of  seeded  raisins,  two  pounds  of  currants,  one- 
half  pound  of  citron,  two  pounds  of  sugar,  five  eggs,  one  pint 
of  milk,  one-half  pint  of  brandy.,  two  nutmegs,  a  little  salt, 
flour  sufficient  to  make  it  very  stiff.  Put  it  into  one  or  two 
bags,  and  boil  in  a  large  quantity  of  water  seven  or  eight 
hours.  Serve  with  sauce. 

Spice  Pudding. — One  cupful  of  sour  milk,  one  cupful  of 
butter,  four  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  cupfuls  of  currants,  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  four  eggs,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon, 
one  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Bake 
in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve  with  brandy  sauce. 

Paradise  Pudding. — Stew  until  tender  three  ounces  of  rice 
in  a  pint  and  a  quarter  of  milk,  add  four  ounces  of  raisins, 
three  ounces  of  suet  chopped  fine,  two  and  a  half  ounces  of 
sugar,  two  eggs,  a  little  nutmeg  and  lemon  peel.  Boil  three 
hours.  Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

Jelly  Pudding. — Two  cupfuls  very  fine  stale  biscuit  or 
bread-crumbs ;  one  cupful  of  rich  milk — half  cream,  if  you 
can  get  it ;  five  eggs,  beaten  very  light ;  one-half  teaspoon- 
ful of  soda,  stirred  in  boiling  water ;  one  cupful  of  sweet 
jelly,  jam,  or  marmalade.  Scald  the  milk  ajid  pour  over  the 


PASTR  Y  AND  ^PUDDINGS. 

crumbs.  Beat  until  half  cold,  and  stir  in  the  beaten  yelks, 
then  whites,  finally  the  soda.  Fill  large  cups  half  full  with 
the  batter ;  set  in  a  quick  oven  and  bake  half  an  hour. 
When  done,  turn  out  quickly  and  dexterously  ;  with  a  sharp 
knife  make  an  incision  in  the  side  of  each  ;  pull  partly  open, 
and  put  a  liberal  spoonful  of  the  conserve  within.  Close  the 
slit  by  pinching  the  edges  with  your  fingers.  Eat  warm  with 
sweetened  cream. 

Cabinet  Pudding.— Take  of  the  remains  of  any  kind  of  cake 
broken  up  two  cupfuls,  half  a  cupful  of  raisins,  half  a  can  of 
peaches,  four  eggs,  one  and  a  half  pints  of  milk.  Butter  a 
plain  pudding  mold  and  lay  in  some  of  the  broken  cake, 
one-third  of  the  raisins,  stoned,  one-third  of  the  peaches ; 
make  two  layers  of  the  remainder  of  the  cake,  raisins,  and 
peaches.  Cover  with  a  very  thin  slice  of  bread,  then  pour 
over  the  milk  beaten  with  the  eggs  and  sugar.  Set  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  to  reach  two-thirds  up  the  side  of 
the  mold,  and  steam  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Turn  out  carefully  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  peach  sauce, 
made  as  follows  :  Place  the  peach  juice  from  the  can  into  a 
small  saucepan  ;  add  an  equal  volume  of  water,  a  little  more 
sugar,  and  eight  or  ten  raisins  ;  boil  ten  minutes,  strain,  and 
just  before  serving  add  six  drops  of  bitter  almond. 

Delicious  Pudding. — Bake  a  common  sponge  cake  in  a  flat- 
bottomed  pudding-dish ;  when  ready  for  use,  cut  in  six  or 
eight  pieces ;  split  and  spread  with  butter,  and  return  them 
to  the  dish.  Make  a  custard  with  four  eggs  to  a  quart  of 
milk,  flavor  and  sweeten  to  taste  ;  pour  over  the  cake  and 
bake  one-half  hour.  The  cake  will  swell  and  fill  the  custard. 
Any  stale  cake  will  do  about  as  well  as  sponge  cake. 

Bird's-nest  Pudding.— Make  the  foundation  of  the  nest  of 
corn-starch  or  blanc-mange.  Cut  strips  of  lemon  peel,  boil 
in  a  sirup  of  water  and  sugar  till  tender,  and  arrange  around 
the  blanc-mange  to  represent  straw.  Extract  the  contents 


164  EVERY   WOMAtt  HER  OWN  COOK. 

of  four  eggs  through  a  small  hole,  and  fill  the  shells  with 
hot  blanc-mange  or  corn-starch.  When  cold,  break  off  the 
shells,  and  lay  the  molded  eggs  in  the  nest. 

Snow  Pudding. — Soak  an  ounce  of  gelatine  in  a  pint  of 
cold  water  for  one  hour ;  then  place  it  over  the  fire,  stir 
gently,  and  remove  as  soon  as  it  is  dissolved ;  when  almost 
cold,  beat  to  a  stiff  froth  with  an  egg-beater.  Beat  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  it  to  the 
gelatine  froth,  together  with  the  juice  of  three  lemons,  and 
pulverized  sugar  to  the  taste.  Mix  the  whole  well  together, 
pour  into  a  mold,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Serve  on  a  dish 
with  soft  custard  made  from  the  yelks  of  the  eggs. 

Cherry  Pudding. — Two  eggs,  one  cupful  sweet  milk,  flour 
enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  and  as  many  cherries  as  can  be  stirred  in..  Eat  with 
sauce  made  of  the  cherries. 

Blackberry  Mush.— Put  the  berries  into  a  preserving  kettle 
and  mash  with  sugar  enough  to  make  sweet ;  set  over  the 
€re,  and  when  it  begins  to  simmer,  stir  in  very  gradually 
one  tablespoonful,  or  more  if  needed,  of  corn-starch  to  a 
quart  of  fruit ;  stir  until  well  cooked,  and  eat  either  hot 
or  cold  with  cream  ;  raspberries  also  may  be  used  this  way. 

Roley-poley. — Make  a  good  biscuit  dough,  and  roll  about 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  and  spread  with  berries, 
preserves,  or  slices  of  apple  ;  roll  up  and  tie  in  a  cloth ;  boil 
or  steam  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Berry  or  Fruit  Puddings. — One  quart  sifted  flour,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  shortening,  half  teaspoonful  salt,  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  baking-powder ;  mix  well,  then  form  a  soft  dough 
of  milk  or  water,  roll  out  thin,  and  spread  with  any  kind  of 
berries,  fruit,  or  preserves ;  roll  it  up,  tie  in  a  cloth,  and 
place  in  the  steamer,  or  boil  in  a  mold.  This  makes  fine 
dumplings. 


PASTRY  AND  PUDDINGS. 

(Stemian  Puffs. — Two  cups  of  sweet  milk,  two  cups  of  flour, 
three  eggs,  and  a  little  salt  Bake  in  buttered  cups. 

Indian  Puffs. — Into  one  quart  of  boiling  milk  stir  eight 
tablespoonfuls  of  corn-meal  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
brown  sugar ;  boil  five  minutes,  stirring  constantly ;  when 
cool,  add  six  well-beaten  eggs  •  bake  in  buttered  cups  half 
an  hour.  Eat  with  sauce. 

WMte  Puffs. — One  pint  rich  milk ;  whites  of  four  eggs 
whipped  stiff;  one  heaping  cupful  prepared  flour ;  one  scant 
cupful  powdered  sugar  ;  grated  peel  of  half  a  lemon ;  a  little 
salt.  Whisk  the  eggs  and  sugar  to  a  meringue,  and  add 
this  alternately  with  the  flour  to  the  milk.  Cream,  or  half 
cream  half  milk,  is  better.  Beat  until  the  mixture  is  very 
light,  and  bake  in  buttered  cups  or  tins.  Turn  out,  sift 
powdered  sugar  over  them,  and  eat  with  lemon  sauce. 

Oak  Balls. — Three  cupfuls  each  of  flour  and  milk,  three 
eggs,  whites  and  yelks  beaten  separately  and  very  light, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  a  little  salt.  Pour  in 
well-buttered  muffin-rings,  and  bake  to  a  nice  brown. 

Apple  Dumplings. — Make  a  biscuit  dough,  and  cover  the 
apples  (pared  and  cored),  singly ;  tie  in  cloths  and  drop  in 
boiling  water.  Let  it  boil  half  an  hour.  If  preferred,  mix 
flour  and  a  little  salt,  and  scald  with  boiling  water.  When 
cold  enough  to  handle,  roll  it  out  and  cover  the  apples.  Or 
a  pie-crust  may  be  made  for  a  cover  and  the  dumplings  may 
be  baked  in  the  oven. 

Peach  Dumplings. — These  may  be  made  according  to  the 
preceding  recipe,  substituting  peaches  for  apples. 

Lemon  Dumplings. — Take  suet,  four  ounces ;  moist  sugar, 
four  ounces ;  bread-crumbs,  one-half  pound ;  one  lemon. 
Grate  the  rind  of  the  lemon,  squeeze  out  the  juice,  mix  all 
the  ingredients.  Put  in  buttered  teacups  and  bake  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 


XII.— CREAMS,  JELLIES,  AND  LIGHT  DES- 

SERTS. 

LIGHT  DESSERTS  FOR  HOME  USE;  FROZEN  PREPARATIONS; 
FREEZERS  ;  HOW  TO  FREEZE  CREAMS,  ETC.  J  HOW  TO  TURN  OUT 
THE  MOLDS  ;  WHIPPED  CREAMS,  JELLIES,  ETC.  FORTY-  FIVE 

RECIPES  FOR  CREAMS,  JELLIES,  BLANC-MANGES,  ETC. 

THERE  is  a  delightful  range  of  light  desserts  which  need 
to  be  introduced  more  generally  into  our  homes. 
They  have  too  long  been  allowed  to  rest  in  the  con- 
fectioner's under  the  erroneous  notion  that  they  were  be- 
yond  the  capacity  of  the  ordinary  housekeeper. 

Prominent  among  these  desserts  are  ice-cream  and  water- 
ices  with  all  their  splendid  possibilities  of  variety.  For  hints 
concerning  freezers  and  other  tools  for  the  home  manufac- 
ture of  these  preparations,  see  the  last  chapter  of  this 
department 

In  making  ice-cream,  use  only  the  best  materials.  Avoid 
milk  thickened  with  arrow-root,  corn-starch,  or  any  farina- 
ceous substance.  Pure  cream,  ripe  natural  fruits,  or  good 
extracts  of  the  same,  and  sugar  of  the  purest  quality,  com- 
bine to  make  a  perfect  ice-cream.  To  freeze  the  cream, 
assuming  it  be  already  flavored,  first  pound  up  ice  and  mix 
with  it  a  quantity  of  coarse  salt,  in  the  proportion  of  about 
one-third  the  quantity  of  salt  to  the  amount  of  ice  used. 
Put  the  freezing-can  in  the  centre  of  the  tub,  taking  care 
that  the  lid  is  securely  fastened  down,  and  pile  the  mixed 
ice  and  salt  around  it  to  within  three  inches  of  the  top,  or 
certainly  as  high  as  the  cream  reaches  on  the  inside. 

Begin  to  stir  the  cream  at  once,  and  stir  rapidly  and  con- 
stantly. This  is  essential  to  make  the  cream  smooth.  If 

J66 


CREAMS,   JELLIES,  AND  LIGHT  DESSERTS. 

the  cream  is  allowed  to  freeze  to  the  sides  of  the  can  with- 
out being  quickly  removed,  there  will  inevitably  be  lumps 
of  ice  through  it.  The  freezing  has  progressed  sufficiently 
far  when  the  cream  will  stand  heaped  upon  a  spoon. 

When  a  small  can  of  cream  has  been  made  for  table  use, 
it  is  desirable  to  serve  it  in  a  cylindrical  form  as  it  comes 
solid  from  the  can.  To  remove  it  in  this  form,  take  the  can 
from  the  ice  and  wipe  off  all  the  salt  and  ice  which  adheres 
to  it.  Remove  the  lid  and  invert  the  can  upon  a  plate. 
Wrap  about  the  can  a  towel  wet  with  warm  water.  This 
will  sufficiently  relax  the  freezing  within  the  can  to  allow 
the  cream  to  slide  out  in  compact  form.  Molds  of 
cream  may  be  removed  in  the  same  manner,  by  dipping 
them  in  warm  water  for  a  moment.  Water-ices  and  frozen 
fruits  need  the  same  general  treatment. 

For  whipping  cream,  etc.,  some  of  the  improved  beaters, 
described  at  the  end  of  this  department,  will  be  found  to  be 
superior  to  the  old  hand  methods.  In  all  delicate  dishes  the 
best  ingredients  must  invariably  be  used. 

RECIPES. 

Vanilla  Ice-cream. — Two  quarts  of  pure  cream,  fourteen 
ounces  of  white  sugar,  flavored  with  vanilla  bean  or  extract 
of  vanilla  to  taste ;  mix  well,  and  freeze  as  directed 
above.  Pure  cream  needs  no  thickening  or  boiling.  Milk 
may  be  boiled  or  thickened  with  arrow-root  or  corn- 
starch,  but  it  will  not  produce  ice  cream. 

Lemon  Ice-cream. — For  the  same  quantity  of  cream  and 
sugar,  as  above,  stir  in  the  juice  of  from  four  to  eight 
lemons,  according  to  size  and  juiciness,  and  grate  in  a  little 
of  the  rind.  Then  freeze  as  above. 

Orange  Ice-cream. — Proceed  as  in  lemon  cream,  using 
oranges,  and  regulating  the  quantity  of  sugar  as  the  fruit  is 
more  or  less  sweet. 


168  &VERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOX. 

Chocolate  Ice-cream. — For  one  gallon  of  ice-cream,  grate 
fine  about  one-half  cake  of  Baker's  chocolate ;  make  ice- 
cream as  for  the  recipe  above ;  flavor  lightly  with  vanilla 
and  stir  in  the  chocolate. 

Strawberry  Ice-cream. — Mash  one  pint  of  fresh,  ripe  straw- 
berries ;  sprinkle  them  with  half  a  pound  of  fine  sugar ;  let 
it  stand  about  an  hour ;  strain  though  a  fine  sieve,  or  a 
cloth ;  if  the  sugar  is  not  dissolved,  stir  it  well ;  add  a  little 
water;  stir  this  juice  into  the  cream  prepared  as  above  and 
freeze. 

Raspberry  Ice-cream. — Make  the  same  as  strawberry,  sub- 
stituting the  raspberries  merely. 

Peach  Ice-cream. — Take  fine,  ripe  freestone  peaches ;  pare, 
chop  fine,  mash,  and  work  as  for  strawberry  cream. 

Pine-apple  Ice-cream. — Pare  the  fruit,  shred  fine,  and  work  as 
in  strawberry  cream. 

Orange  Water-ice. — Take  one  dozen  oranges;  grate  the 
skin  and  squeeze  out  the  juice;  add  six  quarts  of  water 
and  ten  ounces  of  white  sugar  to  each  quart  of  water ;  mix 
well  and  put  into  the  freezer.  Be  careful  to  stir  steadily 
while  freezing,  or  the  mixture  will  cake  into  lumps.  The 
amount  of  sugar  and  of  orange-juice  may  be  varied  to  suit 
taste. 

Lemon  Water-ice, — To  one  quart  of  water,  add  the  juice  of 
four  lemons  and  one  pound  of  sugar.  Then  proceed  as 
above.  Currants,  raspberries,  strawberries,  and  all  the  juicy 
fruits  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way. 

Tutti  Frutti — One  quart  of  rich  cream,  one  and  one-half 
ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  chopped  fine ;  one-half  pound 
tf  sugar ;  freeze,  and  when  sufficiently  congealed,  add  one- 


CREAMS,  JELLIES*  AND  LIGHT  DESSERTS.         109 

half  pound  of  preserved  fruits,  with  a  few  white  raisins 
chopped,  and  finely  sliced  citron.  Cut  the  fruit  small,  and 
mix  well  with  the  cream.  Freeze  like  ice-cream,  and  keep 
on  ice  until  required. 

Frozen  Fruits. — Take  two  quarts  of  rich  cream  and  two 
teacupfuls  of  sugar,  mix  well  together  and  put  into  a  freezer 
with  ice  and  salt  packed  around  it.  Have  ready  one  quart 
of  peaches,  mashed  and  sweetened.  When  the  cream  is 
very  cold,  stir  them  in  and  freeze  all  together.  Strawberries 
can  be  used  in  the  same  way,  but  will  require  more  sugar. 
Cherries  are  specially  delightful  in  this  form. 

WMpped  Cream. — To  one  quart  of  cream  whipped  very 
thick,  add  powdered  sugar  to  taste ;  then  add  one  tumbler 
of  wine.  Make  just  before  using. 

Italian  Cream. — Divide  two  pints  of  cream  equally  in  two 
bowls ;  with  one  bowl  mix  six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar, 
the  juice  of  two  large  lemons,  and  two  glassfuls  of  white 
wine ;  then  add  the  other  pint  of  cream,  and  stir  the  whole 
very  hard ;  boil  two  ounces  of  isinglass  with  four  small  tea- 
cupfuls of  water  till  reduced  one-half;  then  stir  the  isinglass, 
lukewarm,  in  the  other  ingredients ;  put  them  in  a  glass  dish 
to  harden. 

Syllabnb. — Whip  a  small  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  into  a 
quart  of  rich  cream,  and  another  cupful  of  sugar  into  the 
whites  of  four  eggs.  Mix  these  together,  and  add  a  glass 
of  white  wine  and  flavoring  to  taste. 

Spanish  Cream. — Three  half-pints  of  milk,  half  a  box  of 
gelatine,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sugar,  three  eggs,  and 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  milk ; 
put  on  to  boil ;  when  boiling,  add  the  yelks  of  the  eggs 
with  the  sugar  and  flavoring  extract  beaten  together.  When 
it  thickens  to  the  consistency  of  cream,  or  after  about  three 


170  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

minutes'  boiling,  take  off  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  well  beaten.  Pour  into  molds,  and  set  aside  to 
cool.  To  be  eaten  cold,  with  or  without  cream. 

Tapioca  Cream. — Soak  half  a  cupful  of  tapioca  in  water 
over  night.  Let  a  quart  of  milk  get  steaming  hot,  and  add 
to  it  the  tapioca.  Let  it  boil  three  minutes,  then  mix  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  white  sugar  with  the  yelks  of  four  eggs ; 
stir  them  into  the  milk  and  tapioca,  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil 
again.  Beat  the  whites  up  stiff;  stir  them  rapidly  and 
thoroughly  through  the  boiling  tapioca;  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  wine  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Let  it  stand  till 
cold  and  garnish  with  macaroons. 

Orange  Cream. — Put  half  a  box  of  gelatine  to  soak  for  halt 
an  hour  in  cold  water  enough  to  cover  it.  Take  three  half- 
pints  of  cream,  whip  half  of  it,  and  heat  the  other  half;  dis- 
solve the  gelatine  in  the  heated  cream ;  then  strain  it,  and 
return  to  the  boiler  again.  Take  the  yelks  of  five  egpgs  and 
a  cupful  of  sugar ;  beat  them  together  till  light,  and  add  to 
the  boiling  cream ;  cook  about  two  minutes,  stirring:  con- 
stantly ;  take  from  the  fire,  and  while  it  cooks,  stir  in  the 
whipped  cream  and  the  juice  of  four  oranges,  and  pour  into 
a  mold  to  stiffen.  Stir  the  cream  constantly  before  putting 
into  the  mold,  to  prevent  it  from  thickening  in  lumps. 

Pink  Cream. — Three  gills  of  strawberry  or  currant  juice  ; 
mix  with  one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  one-half  pint  of 
thick  cream ;  whisk  until  well  mixed ;  serve  in  a  glass  dish. 

Chocolate  Bavarian  Cream. — Whip  one  pint  of  cream  to  a 
stiff  froth,  laying  it  on  a  sieve;  boil  a  pint  of  rich  milk  with 
a  vanilla  bean  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  until  it  is  well 
flavored ;  then  take  it  off  the  fire  and  add  half  a  box  of  gela- 
tine, soaked  for  an  hour  in  half  a  cupful  of  water  in  a  warm 
place  near  the  range ;  when  slightly  cooled,  add  two  tablets 
of  Baker's  chocolate,  soaked  and  smoothed.  Stir  in  the  eggs 


CREAMS,  JELLIES,  *ND  LIGHT  DESSERTS. 

well-beaten.  When  it  has  become  quite  cold  and  begins  to 
thicken,  stir  it  without  ceasing  a  few  minutes,  until  it  is  very 
smooth ;  then  stir  in  the  whipped  cream  lightly  until  it  is 
well  mixed.  Put  it  into  a  mold  or  molds,  and  set  it  on  ice 
or  in  a  cool  place. 

Turret  Cream. — Soak  one  box  of  gelatine  in  a  cupful  ol 
milk  four  hours.  Scald  three  cupfuls  of  milk;  add  one  cup- 
ful of  the  sugar ;  when  this  is  dissolved,  add  the  soaked 
gelatine.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  almost  boiling  hot ;  strain 
and  divide  into  two  equal  portions.  Return  one  to  the  fire 
and  heat  quickly.  When  it  nears  the  boiling-point,  stir  in 
the  beaten  yelks  of  three  eggs.  Let  all  cook  together  two 
minutes,  and  turn  out  into  a  bowl  to  cool.  When  it  has 
cooled,  churn  one  pint  of  cream  very  stiff,  and  beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  until  they  will  stand  alone.  Divide  the 
latter  into  two  heaps.  As  the  yellow  gelatine  begins  to 
"  form,"  whip  one-half  of  the  whites  into  it,  a  little  at  a  time. 
To  the  white  gelatine  add  the  rest  of  the  whites  in  the  same 
manner,  alternately  with  the  whipped  cream.  Season  the 
yellow  with  vanilla,  the  white  with  lemon  juice  beaten  in  at 
the  last.  Wet  the  inside  of  a  tall,  fluted  mold  with  water, 
and  arrange  in  the  bottom,  close  to  the  outside  of  the  mold, 
a  row  of  crystallized  cherries.  Then  put  in  a  layer  of  the 
white  mixture;  on  this  crystallized  apricots  or  peaches  cut 
into  strips  ;  a  layer  of  the  yellow,  another  border  of  cherries, 
and  so  on  until  your  mold  is  full.  When  firm,  which  will  be 
in  a  few  hours  if  set  on  ice,  wrap  a  cloth  wrung  out  in  hot 
water  about  the  mold,  and  invert  upon  a  flat  dish.  Eat  with 
sweet  cream,  or,  if  you  like,  with  brandied  fruit.  Not  only 
is  this  a  very  palatable  dish,  but  it  is  also  very  beautiful,  well 
repaying  the  trouble  of  its  preparation. 

Velvet  Cream. — Half  an  ounce  of  isinglass  dissolved  in  one 
and  a  half  cupfuls  of  white  wine ;  then  add  the  juice  and 
grated  peel  of  a  lemon,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf 


172  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

sugar ;  simmer  all  together  until  mixed  well ;  strain  and  add 
one  and  a  half  pints  of  rich  cream,  and  stir  until  cool ;  pour 
into  molds,  and  let  it  stand  till  stiff  enough  to  turn  out. 

Calf's  Foot  Jelly. — Take  one  pair  of  calf's  feet,  and  put 
them  into  a  gallon  of  water ;  let  it  boil  half  away  and  skim 
constantly ;  strain  it  when  cold ;  take  the  fat  from  the  top 
and  bottom ;  then  warm  it ;  add  sugar,  the  juice  of  three 
lemons,  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  and  the  whites  of  seven 
eggs ;  boil  it  half  an  hour,  strain  through  a  flannel  bag,  and 
cool  in  molds. 

Wine  Jelly. — One  box  of  Coxe's  gelatine  dissolved  in  one 
pint  of  cold  water,  one  pint  of  wine,  one  quart  of  boiling 
water,  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar,  and  three  lemons. 
Cool  in  molds. 

Wine  Jelly,  No.  2. — Soak  one  package  of  sparkling  gelatine 
in  a  large  cupful  of  cold  water.  Add  to  this  all  the  juice 
and  half  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  two  cupfuls  of  white  sugar,  and 
a  half  teaspoonful  of  bitter  almond  or  two  peach  leaves,  and 
cover  for  half  an  hour ;  then  pour  on  boiling  water,  stir,  and 
strain.  After  adding  two  cupfuls  of  pale  sherry  or  white 
wine,  strain  again  through  a  flannel  bag.  Wet  a  mold  and 
set  it  in  a  cold  place  until  the  next  day. 

Jelly  Oranges. — Soak  a  package  of  Coxe's  gelatine  about 
three  hours  in  a  cup  of  cold  water.  Cut  from  the  top  of  each 
of  a  dozen  fine  oranges  a  round  piece,  leaving  a  hole  just 
large  enough  to  admit  the  bowl  of  a  small  spoon  or  the 
handle  of  a  larger.  The  smaller  the  orifice,  the  better  your 
dish  will  look.  Clean  out  every  bit  of  the  pulp  very  care- 
fully, so  as  not  to  tear  the  edges  of  the  hole.  Scrape  the 
inner  skin  from  the  sides  with  your  fore-finger,  and  when  the 
oranges  are  emptied  lay  them  in  cold  water  while  you  make 
the  jelly.  Strain  the  juice  of  all  and  grated  peel  of  three  of 
the  oranges  through  coarse,  thin  muslin  over  three  cupfuls 
of  sugar,  squeezing  rather  hard  to  get  the  coloring  matter* 


JLLLIES,  AND  LIGHT  DESSERTS.         J73 

Stir  this  until  it  is  a  thick  sirup,  and  add  a  quarter  teaspoon- 
ful  of  cinnamon.  Pour  two  cupfuls  of  boiling  water  upon  the 
soaked  gelatine,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  well  dissolved ; 
add  the  juice  and  sugar,  stir  all  together,  and  strain  through 
a  flannel  bag  into  a  pitcher,  not  shaking  or  squeezing  it,  lest 
it  should  become  cloudy.  Wipe  off  the  outside  of  the 
oranges,  set  them  close  together  in  a  dish,  the  open  ends 
uppermost,  and  fill  very  full  with  the  warm  jelly,  as  it  will 
shrink  in  cooling.  Set  it  away  in  a  cold  place  where  there 
is  no  dust.  Next  day  cut  each  in  half  with  a  sharp  knife, 
taking  care  to  sever  the  skin  all  around  before  cutting  into 
the  jelly.  If  neatly  divided,  the  rich  amber  jelly  will  be  a 
fail1  counterfeit  of  the  orange  pulp.  Pile  in  a  glass  dish, 
with  green  leaves  around,  as  you  would  the  real  fruit.  This 
is  a  delicious  dish,  and  it  is  highly  ornamental  on  the  table. 

Apple  Jelly. — Soak  half  a  package  Coxe's  gelatine  in  one 
cupful  of  cold  water.  Pare,  core,  and  slice  a  dozen  well- 
flavored  pippins,  throwing  each  piece  into  cold  water  as  it 
is  cut  to  preserve  the  color.  Pack  them  in  a  glass  or  stone- 
ware jar  with  just  cold  water  enough  to  cover  them  ;  cover 
the  jar  loosely  that  the  steam  may  escape  ;  set  in  a  pot  of 
warm  water  and  bring  to  a  boil.  Cook  until  the  apples  are 
broken  into  pieces.  Have  ready  in  a  bowl  the  soaked  gela- 
tine, two  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons, 
and  the  grated  peel  of  one.  Strain  the  apple  pulp  scalding 
hot  over  them ;  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved ;  strain 
again  through  a  flannel  bag,  without  shaking  or  squeezing 
it ;  wet  a  mold  with  cold  water,  fill  it,  and  set  in  a  cold 
place  until  firm.  This  preparation  is  greatly  improved  if 
formed  in  a  mold  with  a  cylinder  in  the  centre,  the  cavity 
being  filled  and  heaped  with  whipped  cream  or  syllabub. 

Peach  Jelly. — Proceed  as  in  apple  jelly,  using  peache^ 
with  a  few  peach-kernels  broken  up  and  boiled  with  the 
fruit 


174  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Lemon  Jelly. — Stir  together  two  large  cupfuls  of  sugar,  the 
juice  of  six  lemons  and  grated  peel  of  two,  and  a  package  of 
well-soaked  gelatine.  Cover  for  an  hour.  Pour  three  pints 
of  boiling  water  over  them  ;  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  quite 
melted ;  strain  through  a  close  flannel  bag,  and  pour  into  a 
wet  mold. 

Orange  Jelly. — Soak  a  package  of  gelatine  in  two  cupfuls 
of  water ;  add  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  six  large 
oranges,  and  grated  peel  of  one,  the  juice  of  two  lemons, 
and  peel  of  one,  and  cover  for  an  hour.  Pour  three  pints 
of  boiling  water  over  them ;  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  quite 
melted;  strain  through  a  flannel  bag;  add  a  little  good 
brandy  if  desired  and  strain  again ;  pour  into  a  wet  mold. 

Orange  Trifle. — Stir  half  a  package  of  soaked  gelatine  into 
a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Mix  the  juice  of  two  oranges 
and  rind  of  one  with  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  pour 
the  hot  liquid  over  them.  Should  the  gelatine  not  dissolve 
readily,  set  all  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  clear.  Strain,  and 
stir  in  the  beaten  yelks  of  three  eggs.  Heat  quickly  within 
a  vessel  of  boiling  water,  stirring  constantly  lest  the  yelks 
curdle.  If  they  do  curdle,  strain  again  through  coarse  flan- 
nel. Set  aside  until  perfectly  cold  and  slightly  stiff,  then 
whip  in  a  pint  of  frothed  cream.  Wet  a  mold,  fill,  and  set  it 
on  ice. 

Orange  Dessert — Pare  five  or  six  oranges ;  cut  into  thin 
slices  ;  pour  over  them  a  coffeecupful  of  sugar.  Boil  one 
pint  of  milk ;  add,  while  boiling,  the  yelks  of  three  eggs; 
one  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  (made  smooth  with  a  little 
cold  milk) ;  stir  all  the  time ;  as  soon  as  thickened,  pour 
over  the  fruit.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  froth  ;  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar ;  pour  over  the  cus- 
tard, and  brown  slightly  in  the  oven.  Serve  cold 


CREAMS,  JELLIES,  AND  LIGHT  DESSERTS.         175 

Apple  Snow. — Grate  half  a  dozen  apples  to  a  pulp ;  press 
them  through  a  sieve ;  add  half  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  extract  of  lemon ;  take  the  whites  of 
six  eggs,  whip  them  for  several  minutes,  and  sprinkle  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  over  them;  beat  the 
apple  pulp  to  a  froth,  and  add  the  beaten  egg ;  whip  the 
mixture  until  it  looks  like  stiff  snow ;  then  pile  it  higfy  in 
rough  portions  on  a  glass  dish ;  garnish  with  small  spoonfuls 
of  currant  jelly. 

Floating  Island. — Beat  the  yelks  of  six  eggs  until  very 
light ;  sweeten  and  flavor  to  taste ;  stir  into  a  quart  of  boil- 
ing milk ;  cook  till  it  thickens ;  when  cool,  pour  into  a  low 
glass  dish ;  whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ; 
sweeten,  and  place  over  a  dish  of  boiling  water  to  cook. 
Take  a  tablespoon  and  drop  on  the  whites  of  the  cream,  far 
enough  apart  so  that  the  "  little  white  islands  "  will  not 
touch  each  other.  By  dropping  little  specks  of  bright 
jelly  on  each  island  a  pleasing  effect  will  be  produced. 

Blanc-mange. — Take  one  quart  of  milk,  one  ounce  gelatine, 
and  sugar  to  sweeten  to  taste ;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  keep 
stirring  until  it  is  all  melted,  then  pour  it  into  a  bowl  and 
stir  until  cold ;  season  with  vanilla ;  pour  it  into  a  mold, 
and  set  in  a  cool  place  to  stiffen. 

Tapioca  Blanc-mange. — Take  one  pint  of  new  milk,  half  a 
pound  of  the  best  farina-tapioca  soaked  in  water  four 
hours,  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
almond  or  vanilla  extract,  a  little  salt.  Heat  the  milk,  and 
stir  the  soaked  tapioca.  When  it  has  dissolved,  add  the 
sugar.  Boil  slowly  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time ; 
take  from  the  fire,  and  beat  until  nearly  cold.  Flavor  and 
pour  into  a  mold  dipped  in  cold  water.  Sago  blanc-mange 
may  be  made  in  the  same  manner; 


176  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Corn-starch  Blanc-mange.— One  quart  of  milk,  four  tables 
spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  wet  with  a  little  water,  three  eggs, 
whites  and  yelks  beaten  separately,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  a 
little  salt,  flavor  with  lemon  extract  Heat  the  milk  to  boil- 
ing ;  stir  in  the  corn-starch  and  salt,  and  boil  together  five 
minutes ;  then  add  the  yelks,  beaten  light,  with  the  sugar ; 
boil  two  minutes  longer,  stirring  all  the  while ;  remove  the 
mixture  from  the  fire,  and  beat  in  the  whipped  whites  while 
it  is  boiling  hot.  Pour  into  a  mold  wet  with  cold  water, 
and  set  in  a  cold  place.  Eat  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Chocolate  Blanc-mange.— Heat  a  quart  of  milk;  stir  in 
a  cupful  of  sugar  and  half  a  package  of  soaked  gelatine ; 
strain  through  flannel ;  add  three  large  spoonfuls  of  grated 
chocolate ;  boil  ten  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  When 
nearly  cold,  beat  until  it  begins  to  stiffen.  Flavor  with 
vanilla ;  whip  up  once,  and  put  into  a  wet  mold.  It  will  be 
firm  in  six  or  eight  hours. 

Neapolitan  Blanc-mange. — Dissolve  one-third  of  a  box  of 
gelatine,  and  stir  into  one  quart  of  milk.  Add  three-fourths 
of  a  cupful  of  sugar.  As  soon  as  the  gelatine  is  thoroughly 
dissolved,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  divide  into  three  parts. 
Flavor  one  with  vanilla  ;  color  another  with  the  beaten  yelk 
of  one  egg;  color  the  third  with  grated  chocolate.  Set 
away,  and  when  quite  cold  and  a  little  stiff,  pour  into  a 
mold — first  the  white,  then  the  yellow,  and  last  the  brown. 

Peach  Meringne. — Put  on  to  boil  a  scant  quart  of  new  milk, 
omitting  half  a  teacupful,  with  which  moisten  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  corn-starch.  When  the  milk  boils,  add  corn- 
starch,  stir  constantly,  and  when  it  commences  to  thicken, 
remove  from  the  fire ;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  perfectly 
sweet  butter ;  let  cool ;  then  beat  in  the  yelks  of  three  eggs 
until  the  custard  seems  light  and  creamy ;  add  one-half  tea- 
cupful  of  fine  sugar ;  cover  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered 
baking-dish  with  ripe,  juicy  peaches,  that  have  been  pared, 


CREAMS,  JELLIES,  AND  LIGH'f  DESSERTS.         177 

x»oned,  and  halved ;  sprinkle  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 
«yer  the  fruit,  pour  the  custard  over  gently,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  twenty  minutes  ;  draw  it  out,  and  cover  with  the 
well-beaten  whites  of  the  three  eggs ;  sprinkle  a  little  fine 
sugar  over  the  top,  and  set  in  the  oven  until  brown.  Eat 
warm  with  sauce,  or  cold  with  cream. 

Charlotte  Russe. — Dissolve  half  a  box  of  gelatine  in  cold 
water.  Beat  the  yelks  of  four  eggs  with  two  cupfuls  of 
white  sugar.  Whip  one  quart  of  sweet  cream  very  stiff, 
add  flavoring,  then  the  yelks  and  sugar,  and  blend  all  the 
ingredients.  Add  the  whites,  turn  into  a  bowl  lined  with 
sponge  cake  or  lady-fingers,  and  set  away  to  cool. 

Charlotte  Russe,  No.  2. — Two  tablespoonfuls  gelatine  soaked 
in  a  little  cold  milk  two  hours ;  two  coffeecupfuls  rich  cream ; 
one  teacupful  milk.  Whip  the  cream  stiff  in  a  large  bowl 
or  dish ;  set  on  ice.  Boil  the  milk  and  pour  gradually  over 
the  gelatine  until  dissolved,  then  strain ;  when  nearly  cold 
add  the  whipped  cream,  a  spoonful  at  a  time.  Sweeten  with 
pulverized  sugar  and  flavor  with  vanilla.  Line  a  dish  with 
lady-fingers  or  sponge  cake ;  pour  in  the  cream  and  set  in  a 
cool  place  to  harden. 

Chocolate  Charlotte  Russe. — Soak  in  cold  water  one  ounce 
of  isinglass  or  of  gelatine  ;  shave  down  three  ounces  of  the 
best  chocolate,  without  spice  or  sugar,  and  mix  it  gradually 
into  one  pint  of  cream,  adding  the  soaked  isinglass ;  set  the 
cream,  chocolate,  and  isinglass  over  the  fire  in  a  porcelain 
kettle,  and  boil  slowly  till  the  isinglass  is  dissolved,  and  the 
whole  well  mixed';  take  it  off  the  fire  and  let  it  cool ;  have 
ready  eight  yelks  of  eggs  and  four  whites  beaten  together 
until  very  light ;  stir  them  gradually  into  the  mixture  with 
half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar ;  simmer  the  whole,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil ;  then  take  it  off,  and  whip  to  a  strong  froth ; 
line  the  molds  with  sponge  cake,  fill  with  the  paste,  and  set 
them  on  ice. 

13 


178  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Figs  a  la  Genevieve. — Dissolve  two  ounces  of  best  sugar 
in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  in  an  enameled  stewpan,  with 
half  the  very  thin  rind  of  a  large  lemon ;  when  this  is  done, 
put  into  it  half  a  pound  of  Turkey  figs,  and  put  the  stew- 
pan  over  a  moderate  fire,  so  that  the  figs  may  stew  very 
slowly ;  when  quite  soft,  add  one  glassful  of  common  port 
or  any  other  wine,  and  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon  ; 
serve  them  cold  for  dessert.  About  two  hours  or  two  hours 
and  a  half  is  the  average  time  for  stewing  the  figs,  and  the 
flavor  may  be  varied  by  using  orange  peel  and  juice  in- 
stead of  lemon,  and  by  boiling  two  or  three  bitter  almonds 
in  the  sirup. 

Biscuit  Glace. — Make  a  quart  of  rich  boiled  custard,  flavor 
it  with  vanilla,  and  let  it  cool.  Then  mix  with  it  a  quart  of 
grated  pineapple  or  mashed  peaches.  Stir  them  well  to- 
gether, and  add  enough  sugar  to  allow  for  the  loss  in  freez- 
ing. Freeze  in  the  usual  way,  stirring  in  a  pint  of  cream, 
whipped,  when  it  is  beginning  to  set  in  the  freezer.  Partly 
fill  little  paper  cases  with  the  mixture,  and  smooth  the  tops 
nicely.  Place  them  carefully  in  the  cleaned  and  dried  freezer, 
and  let  them  remain  embedded  in  ice  for  several  hours. 
Sometimes  the  cases  are  filled  with  pistachio  or  chocolate 
ice-cream,  in  which  case  blanched  almonds  are  laid  over  the 
top,  when  they  are  served.  Or  they  may  be  filled  with 
frozen  whipped  cream,  and  served  with  a  spoonful  of  sonit 
bright  sherbet  upon  the  top  of  each. 


Xni.— CAKES  AND  CAKE-BAKING. 

BEST  MATERIALS  REQUISITE  FOR  CAKE-MAKING;  WHAT  THEY 
SHOULD  BE;  WEIGHING  AND  MEASURING  INGREDIENTS;  HOW 
TO  MIX  CAKE;  FRUITS  AND  FLAVORS  FOR  CAKE;  HOW  TO  BAKE 
CAKE  ;  HOW  TO  TEST  IT ;  HOW  TO  KEEP  IT ;  HOW  TO  ICE  IT. 
NINETY-SEVEN  RECIPES  FOR  CAKES. 

IN  cake-making  it  is  absolutely  essential  that  the  best 
materials  be  employed.  Stale  eggs,  strong  butter,  musty 
flour,  or  common  sugar  are  not  so  much  as  to  be 
thought  of  in  this  connection.  The  idea  that  such  refuse 
"  will  do  for  cooking  "  is  most  unworthy.  When  a  luxury, 
such  as  cake,  is  attempted,  the  maker  should  certainly  be 
willing  to  luxuriate  in  acceptable  ingredients. 

Flour  for  cake  should  be  white  and  dry.  It  should  always 
be  carefully  sifted.  Sugar  should  be  white,  dry,  and  free 
from  lumps.  Eggs  and  butter  should  be  sweet  and  fresh ; 
the  milk  rich  and  pure.  Fruit  and  extracts  must  be  of  the 
best.  The  weighing  and  measuring  of  ingredients  must  be 
accurately  done.  Guessing  at  quantities  has  spoiled  many 
a  cake. 

For  mixing  cake,  an  earthen  or  wooden  dish  and  a 
wooden  spoon  are  requisite.  Butter  and  sugar  should  be 
beaten  together  to  a  cream  before  using.  Butter  may  be 
softened  for  this  purpose,  if  too  hard  to  manage  readily,  but 
it  must  not  be  melted.  Whites  and  yelks  of  eggs  must  be 
beaten  separately,  until  there  is  no  stringiness  visible,  and 
the  froth  can  be  taken  up  on  a  spoon.  Beat  eggs  in  a  broad, 
shallow  dish,  and  in  a  cool  place.  It  is  well  to  lay  the  eggs 
in  cold  water  for  an  hour  before  beating  them,  as  they  will 
beat  the  lighter  for  such  treatment.  Sweet  milk  is  best  for 

179 


180  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COO  1C. 

solid  cake ;  sour  milk,  for  light  cake.  The  two  should  never 
be  mixed. 

Baking-powder  should  be  mixed  dry  through  the  flour. 
Soda  and  cream  of  tartar  should  be  dissolved  in  milk. 
Flavoring  extracts,  fruit,  and  spices  must  be  added  the  last 
thing,  and  fruit  should  always  be  well  sprinkled  with  flour 
before  it  is  put  in  the  dough.  Currants  and  such  fruit 
should  be  washed,  picked  over,  and  dried  before  using. 
Almonds  should  be  blanched  by  pouring  boiling  water  over 
them  till  they  pop  from  their  skins.  Cake  should  be  beaten 
as  little  as  possible  after  the  flour  has  been  added.  When 
it  requires  long  baking,  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  pan 
should  be  lined  with  paper  well  buttered.  This  will  insure 
the  easy  turning  out  of  the  cake  when  done. 

Much  of  the  success  in  cake-baking  depends  on  the  heat- 
ing of  the  oven.  If  the  oven  is  very  hot  when  the  cake 
goes  in,  it  will  bake  on  top  before  it  becomes  light.  If  the 
oven  is  too  cool,  it  will  rise  and  fall  again  before  done.  If 
the  top  of  the  cake  browns  too  fast,  cover  it  with  thick 
paper.  Try  it  by  inserting  a  broom-splinter  or  knitting- 
needle  in  the  thickest  part  of  the  cake,  and  if  nothing  ad- 
heres when  it  is  drawn  out,  it  is  done.  Turn  out  of  the  tins 
at  once,  taking  care  not  to  expose  the  cake  to  draft. 

Cake  should  be  kept  in  earthen  pans  or  crocks,  or  tin 
boxes,  but  never  in  wooden  boxes  or  drawers.  It  will  keep 
better  for  being  wrapped  in  a  cloth,  and  more  than  is  needed 
should  not  be  cut. 

Cake  that  is  to  be  frosted  should  be  baked  in  pans  with 
perpendicular  sides.  The  icing  should  be  put  on  as  soon 
as  the  cake  is  removed  from  the  oven.  This  will  insure  its 
drying  smooth  and  hard. 

RECIPES. 

Loaf  Dutch  Cake. — Take  one  cupful  of  light  bread  dough, 
•tie  egg,  sugar  and  salt  to  taste,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda, 


CAKES  AtfD  CARE-*BAKING. 

half  a  pound  of  raisins,  and,  if  desired,  a  little  butter  and 
nutmeg  ;  work  all  together  very  smooth ;  let  the  dough  rise 
about  half  an  hour,  and  bake  as  bread. 

Bread  Cake. — Two  coffeecupfuls  of  bread  dough,  two  tea- 
cupfuls  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  one  teacupful  of  butter,  two  tea* 
spoonfuls  essence  of  lemon,  one  nutmeg,  a  teaspoonful  each 
of  cloves,  cinnamon,  and  allspice,  a  wineglass  of  brandy, 
and  a  coffeecupful  of  raisins.  Let  it  rise  before  baking. 

Cinnamon  Bun. — Put  one  pint  of  milk  on  to  boil  and  mix 
a  cupful  of  butter  in  a  little  lukewarm  water ;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  an  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  luke- 
warm water ;  add  two  quarts  of  sifted  flour;  mix  all  together, 
and  let  it  stand  over  night  till  morning.  Now  beat  two 
eggs  and  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  until  light,  and  mix  it  with 
the  dough;  use  just  flour  enough  on  the  board  to  keep  the 
dough  from  sticking ;  roll  the  dough  out  into  a  sheet  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  spread  a  little  butter,  and 
sprinkle  a  little  sugar  on  it,  then  some  pulverized  cinnamon, 
a  few  currants  or  chopped  raisins.  Now  roll  the  sheet  up 
into  one  long  roll  and  cut  in  pieces  about  one  inch  thick ;  a 
sharp  knife  must  be  used  for  this  purpose ;  put  the  pieces  in 
a  baking-pan,  the  cut  side  or  end  downward,  and  let  them 
stand  in  a  warm  place  for  an  hour,  when  they  will  be  ready 
for  the  oven,  which  must  be  moderately  heated. 

Soft  Molasses  Cake. — Into  one  pint  of  molasses,  put  one 
tablespoonful  of  ginger,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter ;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  and 
two  teaspoonfuls  cream  of  tartar  in  one-half  cupful  of  milk, 
one  egg,  and  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour.  Bake  half  an 
hour. 

Gingerbread. — One  cupful  of  molasses,  one  cupful  of  but- 
ter, two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  sour  milk,  four  eggs, 
three  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  ginger,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda.  Mix  well  and  bake  quickly. 


182  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Ginger  Snaps. — Mix  one  pint  of  flour,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  two  eggs ;  three  heaping  table* 
spoonfuls  of  ginger,  and  a  little  salt.  Pour  into  this  two 
cupfuls  of  heated  molasses.  Add  flour  enough  to  make  it 
roll  out  thin.  Bake  three  or  four  minutes. 

Cookies. — Six  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  of  sugar,  one  of  butter, 
one  of  milk,  teaspoonful  of  soda,  flavored  with  cinnamon 
or  nutmeg,  as  you  like.  Roll  thin,  cut  with  biscuit-cutter, 
and  bake  quick. 

Small  Sugar  Cakes. — One  heaping  teacupful  of  sugar; 
three-quarters  teacupful  of  butter;  one-quarter  teacupful 
sweet  milk  ;  two  eggs,  well  beaten ;  two  teaspoonful s  cream 
tartar ;  one  teaspoonful  soda,  dissolved  in  hot  water ;  use 
flour  sufficient  to  enable  you  to  roll  out  the  dough ;  one 
saltspoonful  salt,  nutmeg  and  cinnamon  to  taste.  Cut  into 
round  cakes  and  bake  quickly. 

Knickerbocker  Cakes.— Beat  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  to 
a  cream ;  add  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  a  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower 
water,  and  one  of  brandy,  and  four  ounces  of  washed  cur- 
rants ;  add  five  well-beaten  eggs,  and  beat  the  mixture  until 
very  light.  Line  some  shallow  cake-tins  with  buttered 
paper,  pour  in  the  mixture  until  they  are  half  full,  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven. 

Scotch  Wafers. — Take  one  pound  of  sugar,  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  one  pound  of  flour,  two  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
cinnamon.  Roll  thin  and  bake  quickly. 

Shrewsbury  Cakes. — Mix  a  pound  of  flour  and  a  half 
pound  of  butter ;  stir  in  a  pound  of  brown  sugar  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon.  Mix  all  thoroughly  into  a 
paste  with  three  eggs,  roll  very  thin,  using  as  little  flour  as 
possible,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 


CAKES  AND  CAKE-BAKING. 

Soft  Cookies. — One  egg,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  two  cupfuls 
of  cream,  one  even  teaspoonful  of  soda,  salt  and  flavor  to 
taste.  Flour  to  stiffen  so  they  will  drop  from  the  spoon ;  leave 
a  space  between  them,  as  they  spread  in  baking. 

Apees. — One  cupful  of  butter,  one  large  cupful  of  sugar, 
three  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of 
cream  tartar,  and  flour  enough  to  roll  out  thin.  Bake 
quickly. 

Cinnamon  Cakes. — Take  six  ounces  of  butter,  a  pound  of 
fine,  dry  flour,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar, 
and  a  dessertspoonful  of  pounded  cinnamon.  Make  these 
ingredients  into  a  firm  paste  with  three  eggs,  or  four,  if 
needed.  Roll  it,  not  very  thin,  and  cut  out  the  cakes  with 
a  tin  shape.  Bake  them  in  a  very  gentle  oven  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes,  or  longer,  should  they  not  be  done  quite 
through. 

Lemon  Cakes. — Lemon  cakes  can  be  made  on  the  above 
recipe  by  substituting  for  the  cinnamon  the  rasped  or  grated 
rinds  of  two  lemons,  and  the  strained  juice  of  one,  when  its 
acidity  is  not  objected  to. 

Seed  Cakes. — Two  pounds  of  flour,  one  pound  of  sugar, 
fourteen  ounces  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  caraway 
seed,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  saleratus. 
Rub  the  butter,  sugar,  and  flour  together,  then  add  all  the 
other  ingredients ;  knead  all  well  together  into  a  smooth 
dough ;  roll  it  out  quite  thin,  cut  with  a  round  cutter,  place 
the  cakes  on  tins,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Walnut  Cakes. — One  pound  of  sugar,  six  eggs,  three  tea. 
spoonfuls  of  yeast-powder,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  flour  to 
make  a  dough,  and  one  cupful  of  walnut  kernels ;  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Jumbles. — Three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  one  and  a 
half  cupfuls  of  sugar,  three  eggs,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 


184  EVERV   WOMAN  HER  OWtt  COOtf. 

milk,  flour  enough  to  make  it  roll,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  bak- 
ing-powder ;  roll ;  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar  and  gently 
roll  it  in ;  cut  out,  with  a  hole  in  centre,  and  bake. 

Currant  Jumbles. — One  pound  each  of  flour  and  powderecj 
loaf  sugar,  half  a  pound  each  of  butter  and  currants,  eight 
eggs,  brandy  to  taste  ;  cut  out  as  in  plain  jumbles  and  bake 
on  tins. 

Cocoamit  Cookies. — One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  two  cupfuls  of  prepared  or  grated  cocoanut,  two 
eggs,  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter,  and  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  soda  ;  drop  on  buttered  paper  in  pans. 

Doughnuts. — Two  teacupfuls  of  sugar,  three  eggs,  one  and 
a  half  teacupfuls  of  buttermilk  or  sour  milk,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  saleratus,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  melted  lard,  flour  enough  to  roll  out  nicely ;  boil  or  fry 
in  lard  enough  to  cover  them.  If  not  well  covered  in  the 
cooking  they  will  be  tough. 

Raised  Doughnuts. — One  pint  of  sweet  milk,  one  half  pint 
of  lard,  one  pint  of  sugar,  three  eggs.  Mix  soft  at  night, 
using  the  milk,  one-half  the  sugar  and  lard,  and  one-half 
pint  of  yeast.  In  the  morning,  add  the  rest  with  the  eggs, 
one  nutmeg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  whisky,  and  a  little 
soda.  Knead  well,  and  allow  to  rise.  When  light,  roll  out 
thin,  and  after  cutting,  let  rise  again  before  frying.  One- 
half  beef  suet  and  one-half  lard  is  better  to  fry  them  in  than 
all  lard. 

Crullers. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of  butter, 
one-half  cupful  of  milk,  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
two  of  cream  tartar.  Roll  out,  and  cut  according  to  fancy, 
and  boil  in  fat. 

French  Straws. — Mix  well  eight  eggs,  ten  ounces  of  sugar, 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  and  nutmeg  with  flo'ir 
enough  to  form  a  dough ;  beat  the  eggs  very  thick  and  add 


CAKES  AND  CAKE-BAKING.  185 

the  sugar,  spices,  and  flour ;  knead  well,  and  roll  to  about 
half  an  inch  thick ;  cut  in  strips,  give  each  a  twist,  and  boil 
them  in  plenty  of  lard  to  a  rich  yellow ;  sift  sugar  on  when 
cool. 

Love  Knots. — Five  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  of  sugar,  one  of 
butter,  a  piece  of  lard  the  size  of  an  egg,  two  eggs,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  milk,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda;  rub 
the  butter,  sugar,  and  flour  together  fine,  add  the  other  in- 
gredients, roll  thin,  cut  in  strips  one  inch  wide  and  five 
inches  long,  lap  across  in  true-love  knots,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 

One,  Two,  Tliree,  Four  Cake.— One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cup. 
fuls  of  sugar,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  four  eggs ;  rub  well  to- 
gether, and  add  some  milk  or  cream,  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  soda  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar ;  flavor 
with  grated  lemon  rind  and  juice ;  bake  carefully  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Tea  Cake. — Three  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  of  sugar, 
one  of  butter,  four  eggs,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  milk  or  wine,  and  a  half  grated  nutmeg.  Bake 
carefully  in  quick  oven. 

Tumbler  Cake. — Five  tumblerfuls  of  flour,  three  of  sugar, 
two  of  butter,  four  eggs,  one  of  milk,  one  pint  and  a  half  of 
raisins,  stoned,  one  nutmeg,  one  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  a 
teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  the  milk.  Bake  in  deep  pan 
with  a  hot  oven. 

Cider  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter, 
five  eggs,  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  cider,  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  it ;  spices  or  nutmeg  to  taste ; 
four  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  cupfuls  of  fruit.  Bake 
quickly. 

Puff  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  of 
sweet  milk,  three  of  flour,  three  eggs,  one  and  one-half  tea- 
spoonfuls  ^f  yeast  powder,  extract  of  lemon.  Bake  q 


186  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Pinafore  Cake. — One  cupful  of  butter,  three  half  cupfuls  oi 
sugar,  three  half  cupfuls  of  flour,  one-half  cupful  of  corn- 
starch,  one-half  cupful  of  milk,  four  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of 
cream  of  tartar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  a  pinch 
of  salt  Flavor  to  taste. 

Cork  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  two-thirds  of  a  cupful 
of  butter,  three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  warm  milk,  three  cupfula 
of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  and  a  half  pound 
of  currants.  Use  the  whites  of  two  of  the  eggs  for  icing, 
and  put  the  yelks  into  the  cake. 

Poor  Man's  Cake. — One  cupful  of  cream,  one  of  sugar,  two 
of  flour,  one  egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  two  of  cream 
tartar. 

Cup  Cake. — One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
half  a  cupful  of  molasses,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  of 
cream  tartar  in  half  a  cup  of  milk,  two  eggs,  and  two  and 
a  half  cups  of  flour. 

Moravian  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  but- 
ter, five  eggs,  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  sour  milk, 
one  teaspoonful  of  cream  tartar,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
soda.  Flavor  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla. 

Silver  Cake. — Whites  of  twelve  eggs,  five  cupfuls  of  flour, 
three  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter,  one  and  one- 
half  cupfuls  of  sweet  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  tartar,  one  teaspoonful  of  almond 
extract. 

Gold  Cake. — Substitute  the  yelks  for  whites  of  eggs,  and 
flavor  with  vanilla,  then  make  it  same  as  preceding  recipe. 

Lincoln  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  but- 
ter, two  eggs,  one  cupful  of  cream  or  sour  milk,  three  cup- 
fuls of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  tartar,  half  a  tea- 
epppnful  pf  soda,  and  pne  teaspopnful  pf  essence 


CAKES  AND  CAKE-BAKING.  187 

Washington  Cake. — One  pound  of  flour,  one  pound  of 
sugar,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  five  eggs,  one  pound  of  raisins, 
one  cupful  of  brandy  and  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two 
of  cream  tartar. 

Pound  Cake. — One  pound  of  butter,  one  pound  of  sugar, 
one  pound  of  flour,  and  eight  eggs.  Bake  one  hour. 

White  Pound  Cake. — Beat  to  a  cream  one  pound  of  sugar 
and  one-half  pound  of  butter ;  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder  in  one  pound  of  flour ;  whites  of  sixteen  eggs  beaten 
very  stiff  and  added  last.  Cover  with  frosting  before  it 
cools. 

Sponge  Cake.— Five  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  quarter 
pound  of  flour,  juice  and  rind  of  half  a  lemon.  Beat  yelks  of 
eggs,  sugar,  and  lemon  together  till  light ;  add  half  the 
beaten  whites,  then  half  the  flour,  the  balance  of  the  whites 
and  balance  of  flour.  Avoid  beating  after  the  ingredients 
are  all  together. 

Almond  Sponge  Cake. — Take  half  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar ;  rub 
the  rind  of  a  lemon  on  a  few  of  the  lumps,  and  crush  the 
whole  to  a  powder ;  separate  the  whites  from  the  yelks  of 
five  eggs,  beat  the  yelks,  and  add  the  sugar  gradually ;  then 
beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth ;  add  it  to  the  dish,  and  sift  in 
flour  enough  to  make  a  batter;  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
essence  of  almonds  ;  butter  and  paper  a  tin,  pour  in  the  mix- 
ture until  the  tin  is  two-thirds  full,  and  bake  one  hour  in  a 
moderate  oven.  The  bottom  of  the  tin  may  be  studded  with 
small  pieces  of  almonds. 

Cream  Sponge  Cake.— Beat  together  a  cupful  of  sugar  and 
the  yelks  of  three  eggs.  Add  a  half  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
a  teaspoonful  of  cream  tartar,  a  cupful  of  flour,  and  the  whites 
of  the  eggs.  Bake  in  three  layers,  and  put  between  them 
the  following  filling :  One  egg,  a  half  cupful  of  cream,  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut 

Boil  tUi  like  a  cream,  and  when  gpia  flaypr  t9 


188  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Snow  Cake. — Take  one  pound  of  arrowroot,  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  powdered  white  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  the 
whites  of  six  eggs,  flavoring  to  taste.  Beat  the  butter  to  a 
cream ;  stir  in  the  sugar  and  arrowroot  gradually,  at  the 
same  time  beating  the  mixture ;  whisk  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ;  add  them  to  the  other  ingredients,  and 
beat  well  for  twenty  minutes  ;  flavor  with  essence  of  almond, 
vanilla,  or  lemon,  as  may  be  preferred ;  pour  into  a  buttered 
mold  or  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Spice  Cake. — One  cupful  each  of  butter  and  cold  water, 
three  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  three  eggs,  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  cinnamon, 
one-fourth  pound  each  of  currants  and  raisins. 

Spice  Cake,  No.  2. — One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  four  eggs,  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  tartar,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda,  half  a  cupful  of  sour  milk,  one  cupful  of 
molasses,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground 
cloves,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
ginger,  one  nutmeg,  and  a  small  pinch  of  Cayenne  pepper. 

Coffee  Cake. — One  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
butter,  one  cupful  of  strained  coffee,  one  cupful  of  molasses, 
three  eggs  well  beaten,  one  pound  of  raisins,  two  cupfuls  of 
flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Wine  Cake. — Beat  t,o  a  cream  half  a  cupful  of  butter  with 
two  full  cups  of  powdered  sugar ;  add  the  yelks  of  four 
eggs,  and  half  a  glass  of  sherry  wine  ;  beat  till  very  light ; 
add  half  a  cupful  of  cream  with  a  pinch  of  soda  in  it ;  beat 
two  minutes,  and  stir  in  very  quickly  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
three  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  prepared  flour,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg. 

Fig  Cake. — One  cupful  butter,  two  and  a  half  cupfuls 
sugar,  one  cupful  of  milk,  six  cupfuls  of  flour,  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  baking-powder,  whites  of  sixteen  eggs,  and,  at  the 


CAKES  AND  CAKE-BAKING.  189 

last,  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  figs,  cut  and  floured. 
Bake  well  but  do  not  burn. 

Walnut  Cake. — One  coffeecupful  of  sugar,  two  of  raisins 
(stoned  and  chopped),  one  cupful  and  a  half  of  flour,  half  a 
cupful  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  three  eggs, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  half  a  nutmeg  grated, 
one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  or  vanilla,  one  cup  heaping  full  of 
nuts,  which  must  be  cracked  and  picked,  before  anything 
else  is  done  to  the  cake.  Bake  slowly,  with  a  buttered 
paper  in  the  bottom  of  the  tin. 

Hickorynut  Cake. — One  pound  of  flour,  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
five  eggs,  two  quarts  of  hickorynuts,  one  teaspoonful  of 
soda,  and  two  of  cream  tartar. 

Cocoanut  Cake. — One  pound  of  grated  cocoanut,  one  pound 
of  sugar,  one-half  pound  of  butter,  six  eggs,  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  flour.  Flavor  to  taste. 

New  Year's  Cake. — One  and  a  quarter  pound  of  raisins, 
seeded,  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  currants,  half  a  pound 
of  sliced  citron,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of 
brown  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  five  eggs,  half  a  tumbler- 
ful of  brandy,  half  a  bottle  of  rose-water,  one  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  two  of  cloves,  two  of  mace,  and  a  grated  nut- 
meg. 

Currant  Cake. — One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  four  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  three 
cupfuls  of  prepared  flour,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  and  half  a 
pound  of  currants  washed,  dried,  and  dredged  with  flour. 

Citron  Cake.— Six  eggs,  beaten  light  and  the  yelks  strained; 
two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  butter, 
two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  prepared  flour,  or  enough  to 
make  good  pound  cake  batter.  With  some  brands  you  may 
need  three  cupfuls ;  one-half  pound  of  citron  cut  in  thin 


190  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

shreds ;  juice  of  an  orange,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  grated 
peel.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar;  add  the  yelks,  the 
whites,  and  flour  by  turns,  then  the  orange,  and  lastly,  the 
citron,  dredged  with  flour.  Beat  all  up  hard,  and  bake  in 
two  loaves. 

Plum  Cake. — Two  and  a  half  pounds  of  raisins,  two  and  a 
half  pounds  of  currants,  one  pound  of  citron,  one  pound  of 
butter,  one  pound  of  sugar,  ten  eggs,  one  pound  of  flour, 
one-half  pint  of  brandy,  and  a  little  molasses. 

Fruit  Cake. — Take  of  butter  two  cupfuls ;  sugar,  four  cup- 
fuls ;  molasses,  one  cupful ;  sour  milk,  two  cupfuls ;  flour, 
eight  cupfuls ;  eggs,  eight ;  soda,  one  tablespoonful ;  cloves, 
two  tablespoonfuls  ;  cinnamon,  two  tablespoonfuls  ;  raisins, 
two  pounds  ;  currants,  two  pounds ;  almonds,  one  pound  ; 
citron,  half  a  pound  ;  two  nutmegs  ;  two  lemons  cut  fine ; 
bake  four  hours. 

Wedding  Cake. — One  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  one  pound 
of  butter,  one  pound  of  flour,  twelve  eggs,  one  pound  of  cur- 
rants well  washed  and  dredged,  one  pound  of  raisins, 
seeded  and  chopped,  one-half  pound  of  citron  cut  in  slips, 
one  tablespoonful  of  cinnamon,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  nutmeg, 
one  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  one  wineglass  of  brandy.  Cream 
the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  beaten  yelks  of  the  eggs,  and 
stir  all  well  together  before  putting  in  half  of  the  flour.  The 
spice  should  come  next,  then  the  whipped  whites  stirred  in 
alternately  with  the  rest  of  the  flour,  lastly  the  brandy. 
The  above  quantity  is  for  two  large  cakes.  Bake  at  least 
two  hours  in  deep  tins  lined  with  well-buttered  paper.  The 
icing  should  be  laid  on  stiffand  thickly.  Bake  this  well,  and, 
if  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  it  will  not  spoil  in  two  months. 
Test  the  cakes  well,  and  be  sure  they  are  quite  done  before 
taking  them  from  the  oven. 

Black  Cake. — One  pound  of  browned  flour,  one  pound  of 
sugar,  one  pound  pf  citron,  two  pounds  of  currants, 


CAKES  AND  CAKE-BAKING.  191 

three  pounds  of  stoned  raisins,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  one  teacupful  of  molasses,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  mace, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  one  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  twelve  eggs. 

Farmers'  Fruit  Cake. — Three  cupfuls  of  dried  apples,  two 
cupfuls  of  molasses,  one  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of 
brown  sugar,  one  pound  of  raisins,  one  quarter  pound  of 
citron,  two  eggs,  one  lemon  (both  juice  and  rind),  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  soda,  one  pound  and  small  cup  of  flour. 
Soak  the  apples  over  night,  chop  fine,  and  boil  till  done  in 
the  molasses  and  one  cupful  of  the  water  they  were  soaked 
in.  Flavor  with  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  and  a  very  little  cloves. 
Bake  three  hours. 

Chocokte  Cake. — One  cupful  butter,  two  cupfuls  sugar,  two 
and  one-half  cupfuls  flour,  five  eggs,  one  cupful  sour  milk, 
one  teaspoonful  soda,  dissolved  in  a  little  boiling  water ; 
one-half  cake  Baker's  chocolate,  grated  and  put  in  the  cake 
before  stirring  in  the  flour,  with  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Bake  in  jelly  tins  in  four  layers. 

Chocolate  Cake,  No.  2. — One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls 
of  sugar,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  half  cupful  sweet  milk, 
half  teaspoonful  soda,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  tartar, 
seven  eggs.  Bake  in  layers,  and  put  between  the  layers  the 
following  filling:  Quarter  of  a  pound  of  Baker's  best 
vanilla  chocolate,  one  gill  of  sweet  milk,  one  egg,  sugar 
to  taste.  Scald  the  gill  of  milk  and  the  chocolate  together ; 
beat  one  egg  thoroughly,  and  stir  it  in ;  add  sugar  and 
vanilla  to  taste. 

Chocolate  Cake,  No.  3. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  of  but- 
ter, five  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream  tartar,  half  a  cupful  of  sour  milk.  Grated  nutmeg 
and  vanilla.  Bake  in  layers,  and  put  between  the  layers  the 
following  filling  :  One  cupful  of  Baker's  chocolate,  grated, 
a  §mall  cupfu}  pf  sugar,  Put  in  a  dry  bowl,  and 


192  EVERY    WOMAN  HER    OWN  COOK. 

the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water.  Stir  until  the  heat  of 
the  bowl  dissolves  the  chocolate  and  sugar  into  a  thick 
paste.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  clear  table  sirup  and  two 
eggs  well  beaten.  Let  this  cook  in  the  boiling  water  about 
ten  minutes,  then  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

Jelly  Cake. — Beat  three  eggs  well,  the  whites  and  yelks 
separately ;  take  a  cupful  of  fine  white  sugar,  and  beat  that 
in  well  with  the  yelks,  and  a  cupful  of  sifted  flour,  stirred  in 
gently ;  then  stir  in  the  whites,  a  little  at  a  time,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder  and  one  tablespoonful  of  milk  ; 
pour  it  in  three  jelly-cake  plates,  and  bake  from  five  to  ten 
minutes  in  a  well-heated  oven,  and  when  cold  spread  with 
currant  jelly,  and  place  each  layer  on  top  of  the  other  and 
sift  powdered  sugar  on  the  top. 

Jelly  Roll. — Add  one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and  one 
cupful  of  flour  to  three  well-beaten  eggs ;  stir  well,  and  add 
one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
saleratus  dissolved  in  three  teaspoonfuls  of  water ;  bake  in 
two  pie-pans ;  spread  as  evenly  as  possible ;  as  soon  as  done, 
turn  the  cake,  bottom  side  up,  on  to  a  dry  towel ;  spread  it 
evenly  with  jelly,  roll  up  quickly,  and  wrap  closely  in  the 
towel. 

Peach  Cake. — Bake  sponge  cake  in  layers ;  cut  peaches  in 
very  thin  slices,  and  spread  upon  the  cake;  sweeten,  flavor, 
and  whip  some  sweet  cream,  and  spread  over  each  layer 
and  over  the  top. 

Pineapple  Cake.— One  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  one  cupful  milk,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  whites  of  six 
eggs  and  yelks  of  four,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder 
well  mixed  through  flour ;  bake  in  jelly-cake  pans ;  grate  a 
pineapple ;  sprinkle  with  sugar,  spread  between  the  layers ; 
pineapple  jam  may  be  substituted ;  frost  the  outside ; 
beat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  pineapple  into  the  frosting. 


CAKES  AND  CAKE-BAKING. 

Cocoanut  Cake. — Two  eggs,  one  cupful  white  sugar,  one- 
half  a  cupful  sweet  milk,  one-quarter  cupful  of  butter,  one 
and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls 
baking-powder.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  in  pans  one  inch 
deep.  To  prepare  the  desiccated  cocoanut,  beat  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  one  cupful  of  pulverized 
sugar  and  the  cocoanut,  after  soaking  it  in  boiling  milk. 
Spread  the  mixture  between  the  layers  of  cake  and  over 
the  top. 

White  Mountain  Cake. — Make  the  cake  with  one  pound  of 
fiour,  one  pound  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  six  eggs, 
one  cupful  of  milk,  one  small  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  dis- 
solved in  the  milk.  Bake  four  thin  cakes  in  flat  pie  plates ; 
frost  each  of  these  cakes,  laying  one  on  another.  When 
all  are  done,  even  the  edges  with  a  knife  and  frost  the  sides. 
Use  the  following  frosting  preparation :  Beat  to  a  standing 
froth  the  whites  of  four  eggs  made  thick  v/ith  sifted,  refined 
sugar,  and  add  the  sugar  and  juice  of  one  lemon. 

Delicate  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  pulverized  sugar,  half  a 
cupful  of  butter,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  nearly  three-fourths 
of  a  cupful  of  milk,  whites  of  eight  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream  tartar,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  soda.  This  may  be 
baked  in  jelly  cake  tins  and  put  together  with  icing. 

Cream  Cake. — Take  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  two-thirds  of  a 
cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  two  and  a 
half  cupfuls  of  flour,  three  eggs.  Make  the  custard  for  the 
cake  with  one  cupful  of  milk,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  corn- 
starch  dissolved  in  it,  and  brought  to  a  boiling  heat,  with  the 
yelk  of  one  egg  dropped  in  to  color  it.  Flavor  with  lemon 
or  vanilla;  let  it 'cool.  Bake  your  cake  in  round  pie-tins; 
use  just  enough  batter  in  the  tin  so  that  when  they  are 
baked  two  of  them  put  together  will  make  one  proper 
sized  cake.  Make  the  custard  first,  and  let  it  cool ;  put  the 
13 


194  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

cakes  together  when  they  are  warm,  with  plenty  of  custard 
between  them. 

Orange  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  of  butter,  five 
eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  sour  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream 
tartar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  two  cupfuls  of  flour. 
Bake  in  four  layers,  and  put  between  the  layers  the  follow- 
ing filling :  Beat  two  eggs,  add  to  them  a  small  cupful  of 
sugar,  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Simmer  gently  until 
it  thickens.  Remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  juice,  grated 
pulp,  and  part  of  the  rind  of  one  large  orange. 

Ice-Cream  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  half  a  cupful  of 
butter,  three  eggs,  a  cupful  of  milk,  three  cupfuls  of  flour, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Bake  in  layers.  Boil 
two  small  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of 
water  for  ten  minutes.  Beat  the  white  of  an  egg,  and  pour 
it  over  the  mixture  when  it  cooks  a  little.  Beat  till  cold  and 
stiff,  and  put  between  the  layers. 

Union  Cake. — Two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls 
of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  milk,  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  four  eggs, 
two-thirds  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  tartar,  and  one-third 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Divide  into  three  equal  parts,  and 
into  one  part  put  a  cupful  of  seeded  raisins,  two-thirds  of  a 
cupful  of  currants,  and  one-quarter  pound  of  citron.  Bake 
in  three  pans  of  the  same  size.  Put  icing,  flavored  with 
extract  of  lemon,  between  the  layers  and  on  the  top  and 
sides. 

Marble  Cake. — Two  cupfuls  of  white  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
butter,  the  whites  of  seven  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream 
tartar,  one  of  soda,  three  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour,  and  half 
a  cupful  of  milk.  In  another  bowl  three  cupfuls  of  brown 
sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  of  molasses,  the  yelks  of  seven 
eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  two  of  allspice,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cloves,  half  a  nutmeg,  half  a  cupful  of  milk, 
three  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda;  and  two  of 


AuVD  CAKE-BAKINC.  195 

cream  tartar.     Arrange  by  dropping  in  first  a  tablespoonful 
of  dark  batter,  then  of  the  light,  to  imitate  marble. 

Watermelon  Cake. — White  part :  One-half  cupful  of  butter, 
one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  whites  of  three  eggs,  one- 
third  of  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  bak- 
ing-powder, and  three  half  cupfuls  of  flour. — Red  part :  One- 
half  cupful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  red  sugar,  yelks  of  five 
eggs,  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  one  tablespoonful 
of  baking-powder,  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  and  half  a  pound  of 
seeded  raisins.  Put  the  red  part  in  the  centre  of  the  pan, 
with  the  white  on  the  outside.  Raisins  may  be  introduced 
in  the  red  part  to  represent  seeds.  Red  sugar  can  be  had 
of  the  confectioners. 

Neapolitan  Cake. — Mix  a  yellow  portion  thus:  Two  cup- 
fuls of  powdered  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter  stirred  to  light 
cream  with  sugar;  five  eggs  beaten  well,  with  yelks  and 
whites  separately ;  half  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  three  cupfuls 
of  prepared  flour,  a  little  nutmeg. 

Mix  a  pink  and  white  portion  thus  :  One  pound  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  one  pound  of  prepared  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
butter  creamed  with  sugar,  the  whites  of  ten  eggs  whisked 
stiff  Divide  this  batter  into  two  equal  portions.  Leave  one 
white,  and  color  the  other  with  a  very  little  prepared  coch- 
ineal or  with  red  sugar. 

Mix  a  brown  portion  thus :  Three  eggs  beaten  light, 
one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  quarter  cupful  of  butter 
creamed  with  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of -cream,  one  heap* 
ing  cupful  of  prepared  flour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla 
chocolate  grated  and  rubbed  smooth  in  the  cream,  before  it 
is  beaten  into  the  cake. 

Bake  each  of  these  parts  in  jelly-cake  tins.  The  above 
quantities  should  make  three  cakes  of  each  color. 

Mix  a  filling  for  the  cake  thus :  Two  cupfuls  of  sweet 
milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  wet  with  milk,  two 


196  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

eggs,  two  small  cupfuls  of  fine  sugar.  Heat  the  milk,  stir  in 
the  sugar  and  corn-starch,  boil  five  minutes,  and  put  in  the 
eggs.  Stir  steadily  until  it  becomes  quite  thick.  Divide 
this  custard  into  two  parts.  Stir  into  one  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  grated  chocolate  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla ;  into  the 
other,  bitter  almond. 

Prepare  another  filling  thus :  Whites  of  three  eggs, 
whisked  stiff,  one  heaping  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  juice  and 
half  the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon.  Whip  all  together  well. 
Lay  the  brown  cake  as  the  foundation  of  the  pile ;  spread 
with  the  yellow  custard;  add  the  pink,  coated  with  choco- 
late ;  then  add  the  white  and  yellow  with  the  frosting  be- 
tween them.  Vary  the  order  as  fancy  dictates.  Cover  the 
top  with  powdered  sugar  or  with  icing. 

Angel's  Food.— Use  the  whites  of  eleven  eggs,  a  scant  pint 
of  granulated  sugar,  a  large  half  pint  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful 
of  cream  tartar  (even  full),  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Sift 
the  flour  four  times,  then  measure ;  add  cream  of  tartar,  and 
then  sift  again.  Sift  the  sugar  four  times,  then  measure  it. 
Beat  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  on  a  large  dish,  and  on  same 
dish  add  the  sugar  quickly  and  lightly ;  add  the  flour  in  the 
same  way,  and  last  of  all  the  vanilla.  Put  at  once  into  a 
moderate  oven,  and  bake  forty  minutes  or  more.  Do  not 
grease  the  pans.  Turn  upside  down  to  cool,  putting  small 
blocks  of  wood  under  the  edges  that  air  may  reach  the  cake. 

Macaroons. — Blanch  half  a  pound  of  almonds  with  boiling 
water,  and  pound  them  to  a  smooth  paste.  Add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  essence  of  lemon,  half  a  pound  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  Work  the  paste  well  to- 
gether with  the  back  of  a  spoon.  Wet  your  hands,  and  roll 
them  in  balls  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  and  lay  them  an  inch 
apart  on  a  sheet  of  paper.  Wet  your  finger,  and  press  gently 
over  the  surface  to  make  them  shiny.  Bake  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  in  a  very  moderate  oven. 


AND 

Chocolate  Macaroons. — Put  three  ounces  of  plain  chocolate 
in  a  pan,  and  melt  on  a  slow  fire ;  then  work  it  to  a  thick 
paste  with  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  whites  of 
three  eggs;  roll  the  mixture  down  to  the  thickness  of 
about  one-quarter  of  an  inch ;  cut  it  in  small,  round  pieces 
with  a  paste-cutter,  either  plain  or  scalloped  ;  butter  a  pan 
slightly,  and  dust  it  with  flour  and  sugar  in  equal  quanti- 
ties ;  place  in  it  the  pieces  of  paste  or  mixture,  and  bake  in 
a  hot  but  not  quick  oven. 

Cream  Puffs. — Stir  one-half  pound.of  butter  into  a  pint  of 
warm  water,  set  it  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  and  slowly 
bring  it  to  a  boil,  stirring  often.  When  it  boils,  put  in  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  and  let  it  boil  one  minute,  stir- 
ring constantly.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  turn  into  a  deep 
dish  to  cool.  Beat  eight  eggs  light,  and  whip  into  this  cool 
paste,  first  the  yelks,  then  the  whites.  Drop  in  great  spoon- 
fuls on  buttered  paper  so  as  not  to  touch  or  run  into  each 
other,  and  bake  ten  minutes.  Split  them,  and  fill  with  the 
following  cream  :  One  quart  of  milk,  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
corn-starch,  two  eggs,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar.  Stir  while  boil- 
ing, and  when  thick,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter.  When 
cold,  flavor. 

Kisses. — Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  very  stiff,  add  one- 
half  pound  of  pulverized  sugar,  and  flavor  to  taste.  Beat 
until  very  light,  then  lay  in  heaps  the  size  of  an  egg  on 
paper.  Place  the  paper  on  a  piece  of  wood  half  an  inch 
thick,  and  put  in  a  hot  oven.  Make  the  surface  shiny  by 
passing  over  it  a  wet  knife.  Bake  until  they  look  yellowish, 
when  they  are  done. 

Chocolate  Kisses.— Beat  stiff  the  whites  of  two  eggs;  beat  in 
gradually  one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar.  Scrape  fine 
one  and  a  half  ounces  of  chocolate ;  dredge  with  flour,  mixing 
the  flour  well ;  add  this  gradually  to  the  eggs  and  sugar,  stir- 
ring the  whole  very  hard.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pan  with 


198  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

white  paper,  and  place  on  it  spots  of  powdered  sugar  the 
size  of  half-dollars.  Heap  the  mixture  on  these  spots, 
smooth  with  a  broad  knife,  sift  with  powdered  sugar,  and 
bake  quickly. 

Cocoannt  Steeples. — One  pound  of  powdered  sugar ;  one- 
half  pound  of  grated  cocoanut ;  whites  of  five  eggs.  Whip 
the  eggs  as  for  icing,  adding  the  sugar  as  you  go  on  until  it 
will  stand  alone,  then  beat  in  the  cocoanut.  Mold  the  mix- 
ture with  your  hands  into  small  cones,  and  set  these  far 
enough  apart  not  to  touch  one  another  upon  buttered  paper 
in  a  baking-pan.  Bake  in  a  very  moderate  oven. 

Meringues. — Mix  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth,  with  one  pound  of  pulverized  sugar,  and  flavored  to 
the  taste.  Beat  stiff,  bake  the  same  as  macaroons,  when 
light  brown,  slip  them  from  the  papers,  and  put  the  smooth 
sides  together,  with  jelly  between. 

Lady-fingers. — One-half  pound  pulverized  sugar  and  six 
yelks  of  eggs,  well  stirred;  add  one-fourth  pound  flour, 
whites  of  six  eggs,  well  beaten.  Bake  in  lady-finger  tins, 
or  squeeze  through  a  bag  of  paper  in  strips  two  or  three 
inches  long. 

Lady-fingers,  No.  2. — Rub  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 
pound  of  flour ;  to  this  add  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  the  juice 
and  grated  rind  of  one  large  lemon,  and,  lastly,  three  eggs, 
the  whites  and  yelks  beaten  separately,  and  the  whites  stirred 
in  after  all  the  other  ingredients  are  well  mixed  together. 
This  dough,  if  properly  made,  will  be  stiff  enough  to  make 
rolls  about  the  size  of  a  lady's  finger ;  it  will  spread  when 
in  the  oven,  so  that  it  will  be  of  the  right  size  and  shape. 
If  you  wish  them  to  be  especially  inviting,  dip  them  in  cho- 
colate icing  after  they  are  baked,  and  put  two  together. 
See  that  the  icing  is  so  hard  that  it  will  not  run,  and  set  the 
cakes  on  a  platter  in  a  cool jroom  until  thejdng  is  firm. 


CAKES  AND  CAKE-BAKING.  199 

Eclairs  a  la  Creme. — Three-fourths  pound  flour,  one  pint 
water,  ten  eggs,  one-half  cupful  butter.  Put  the  water  on 
the  fire  in  a  stewpan  with  the  butter ;  as  soon  as  it  boils 
stir  in  the  sifted  flour ;  stir  well  until  it  leaves  the  bottom 
and  sides  of  the  pan,  when  taken  from  the  fire ;  then  add 
the  eggs,  one  at  a  time.  Put  the  batter  in  a  bag  of  paper, 
and  press  out  in  the  shape  of  fingers  on  a  greased  tin. 
When  cold,  fill  with  cream,  prepared  as  follows :  One  and 
one-half  pints  of  milk,  two  cupfuls  sugar,  yelks  of  five  eggs, 
one  tablespoonful  butter,  three  large  tablespoonfuls  corn- 
starch,  two  teaspoonfuls  extract  vanilla.  Frosted  with  choco- 
late, they  are  much  improved  in  appearance  and  flavor. 

Icing  for  Cakes. — In  making  icing,  use  at  least  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  pulverized  sugar  to  the  white  of  each  egg ;  if 
not  stiff  enough,  add  more  sugar.  Break  the  whites  into  a 
broad,  cool  dish,  and  throw  in  a  small  handful  of  sugar. 
Begin  whipping  it  in  with  long,  even  strokes  of  the  beater, 
adding  the  sugar  gradually.  Beat  until  the  icing  is  smooth 
and  firm,  then  add  the  flavoring.  Spread  it  on  the  cake 
with  a  broad-bladed  knife,  dipped  in  cold  water.  If  orna- 
mentation of  the  icing  is  desired,  it  may  be  done  by  affixing 
prepared  leaves,  flowers,  etc.,  which  can  be  had  at  the  con- 
fectioners' stores  or  at  their  supply  stores.  To  make  letters, 
tracery,  etc.,  for  cakes,  roll  into  a  funnel  shape  a  piece  of 
thick,  white  paper;  fill  this  with  icing  in  the  soft  state, 
allowing  it  to  drip  out  slowly  from  the  small  end  of  the 
paper  cone.  Apply  this  carefully,  and  allow  it  to  harden. 

Orange  Icing. — Whites  of  two  eggs,  one-half  pound  of 
pulverized  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  a  large  orange,  treated 
as  above. 

Lemon  Icing. — Whites  of  two  eggs,  one-half  pound  of 
pulverized  sugar,  juice  and  part  of  the  rind  of  one  lemon. 

Chocolate  Icing. — Whites  of  two  eggs,  one-half  pound  of 


200  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

pulverized  sugar,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  choc<x 
late. 

Almond  Icing. — The  whites  of  three  eggs,  one  cupful  of 
pounded  blanched  almonds,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
pulverized  sugar,  and  a  little  almond  extract. 

Banana  Icing. — Whites  of  two  eggs,  one-half  pound  of  pul- 
verized sugar,  and  one  banana  finely  crushed  through  it. 
This  cake  should  be  eaten  the  same  day  it  is  made,  as  the 
banana  discolors  over  night. 

Cocoanut  Frosting. — Whites  of  two  eggs,  one-half  pound 
of  pulverized  sugar.  Spread  on  the  cake,  then  sprinkle 
thickly  with  grated  cocoanut.  This  will  make  a  whiter  frost- 
ing than  results  from  stirring  in  the  cocoanut. 

Cooked  Frosting. — One  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  wet 
with  a  little  water.  Let  it  boil  without  stirring  until  it  be- 
gins to  thicken.  Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  very  light. 
Strain  the  boiled  sugar  into  them  slowly,  beating  all  the 
time.  Flavor  to  taste. 


XIV.— FRESH  FRUITS  AND  NUTS. 

VALUE  OF  FRESH  FRUITS  ON  THE  TABLE;  ABUNDANCE  OF  FRUITS  J 
NUTRITIVE  VALUE  OF  FRUITS;  WHERE  TO  GATHER  AND  HOW 
TO  STORE  FRUITS.  TWENTY-TWO  RECIPES  FOR  SERVING  FRESH 
FRUITS  AND  NUTS. 

THRESH  fruits  are  a  most  delightful  accessory  to   the 

'  table  supply  of  both  rich  and  poor.  They  are  so  great 
in  variety,  so  rich  in  flavor,  so  beautiful  in  appearance, 
so  healthful,  and  of  so  long  continuance  in  most  parts  of  the 
country,  that  it  behooves  every  housekeeper  to  familiarize 
herself  with  the  best  methods  of  using  fresh  fruits  to 
advantage. 

A  few  years  ago  each  locality  depended  upon  its  own 
local  crop  of  fruits.  Now  the  railroads  bring  early  fruits 
from  the  far  South  and  late  fruits  from  the  far  North,  so 
that  at  the  centres  of  population  the  several  fruit  seasons  are 
delightfully  prolonged.  Nor  are  we  restricted  to  our  own 
country's  production.  Such  are  the  facilities  for  rapid  and 
safe  communication  from  distant  points,  that  the  world  lays 
her  tribute  of  fruits,  sweet  and  sound,  at  the  door  of  the 
enlightened  nations. 

Fruits  do  not  take  an  important  place  as  nutrients.  They 
belong  rather  among  the  luxuries,  and  yet,  as  an  agreeable 
stimulant  to  digestion,  they  occupy  a  front  rank.  In  many 
conditions  of  health,  some  of  the  fruits  are  the  only  articles 
the  invalid  can  enjoy,  and  their  genial  influences  contribute 
greatly  to  the  general  improvement  of  a  patient's  appetite. 

Fruits  intended  for  immediate  use  should  be  gathered 
early  in  the  morning,  while  the  coolness  of  the  night  dews 

201 


202  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

is  upon  them.  They  should  be  just  ripe,  neither  overdone 
nor  underdone,  in  nature's  great  process  of  preparing  them 
for  human  food.  Fruit  for  storage  is  best  gathered  at  the 
middle  of  a  dry  day.  It  should  be  nearly  ripe.  If  unripe, 
or  overripe  it  will  not  keep  well.  A  moist  atmosphere,  but 
not  one  positively  damp,  is  best  for  the  storing  of  fruit.  An 
ordinary  cellar  does  better  than  a  dry  storeroom.  Fruit 
keeps  better  in  the  dark  than  in  the  light. 

All  varieties  of  nuts  belong  to  the  albuminous  fruits  and 
are  very  nutritious,  though  the  richer  nuts  are  not  easy 
of  digestion  owing  to  their  oily  properties. 

The  supply  of  peanuts  once  came  wholly  from  Africa,  but 
our  Southern  States  have  so  successfully  cultivated  this 
popular  nut  that  we  are  now  independent.  The  bulk  of  the 
supply  is  from  Virginia,  North  Carolina,  and  Tennessee. 
During  a  single  season  the  crop  of  Virginia  rose  to  one 
million  one  hundred  thousand  bushels,  of  Tennessee,  five 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  bushels,  and  of  North  Carolina, 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  bushels. 

The  Texas  pecan  is  especially  in  demand.  While  a  few 
years  ago  several  barrels  of  pecans  abundantly  supplied  the 
demand,  carloads  and  invoices  of  one  or  two  hundred  bar- 
rels are  not  now  uncommon. 

In  the  Eastern  States  hickory  nuts  are  sufficiently  plenti- 
ful to  ship  to  New  York  half  a  dozen  carloads  a  week  when 
demanded. 

The  chestnut  is  becoming  scarcer  every  year,  but  their 
great  popularity  will  probably  prevent  their  total  disappear- 
ance, as  they  are  already  being  successfully  cultivated,  and 
it  is  expected  that  in  a  few  years  the  cultivated  nut  will  equal 
in  quality  the  high-priced  Italian  chestnuts. 

RECIPES. 

Watermelons. — Wipe  watermelons  clean  when  they  are 
taken  from  the  ice.  They  should  lie  on  ice  for  at  least  four 


FRESH  FRUITS  AND  NUTS.  203 

hours  before  they  are  eaten.  Cut  off  a  slice  at  each  end  of 
the  watermelon,  then  cut  through  the  centre ;  stand  on  end 
on  platter,  and  slice  down,  allowing  each  slice  a  part  of  the 
centre,  or  heart. 

Nutmegs,  etc. — Wash  nutmegs  and  muskmelons;  wipe 
dry ;  cut  in  two ;  shake  out  the  seeds  lightly,  and  put  a 
lump  of  ice  in  each  half.  Eat  with  pepper  and  salt.  A  sil- 
ver spoon  is  a  neat  and  pleasant  article  with  which  to  eat 
small,  ripe  melons. 

Pineapples. — Slice  on  a  slaw-cutter,  or  very  thin  with  a 
knife ;  mix  with  finely  powdered  sugar.  Set  on  ice  till  ready 
to  serve. 

Oranges  are  nice  served  whole,  the  skins  quartered  and 
turned  down.  Form  in  a  pyramid  with  bananas  and  white 
grapes. 

Orange  and  Coeoannt — A  layer  of  oranges  sliced,  then 
sugar,  then  a  layer  of  cocoanut,  grated ;  then  another  of 
oranges,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  full.  This  is  by  many 
known  as  Ambrosia. 

Sliced  Peaches. — Peel  and  slice  ripe  peaches.  Lay  them  in 
a  dish  with  plenty  of  sugar  for  an  hour  or  two,  till  tea  time. 
Eat  with  cream. 

Stewed  Peaches. — Make  a  sirup  of  sugar  and  water ;  halve 
the  peaches,  leaving  the  stone  in  one  half,  and  drop  into 
sirup.  Allow  the  whole  to  simmer  slowly  until  fruit  is  ten^ 
der;  then  remove  fruit,  and  let  sirup  boil  till  thick;  then  pour 
over  fruit  and  serve  at  once. 

Frosted  Peaches. — Put  half  a  cupful  of  water  and  the 
beaten  whites  of  three  eggs  together ;  dip  in  each  peach, 
using  fine,  large  freestones,  after  you  have  rubbed  off 
the  fur  with  a  clean  cloth ;  and  then  roll  in  powdered  sugar. 
Set  them  on  the  stem  end,  upon  a  sheet  of  white  paper,  in 
a  sunny  window.  When  half  dry,  roll  again  in  the  sugar. 


204  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Expose  to  the  sun  and  breeze  until  perfectly  dry.  Until 
ready  to  arrange  them  in  the  glass  dish  for  table,  keep  in 
a  cool,  dry  place.  Decorate  with  green  leaves. 

Fried  Peaches. — Cut  the  peaches  in  two,  and  remove  the 
stones.  Dust  a  little  flour  on  the  side  from  which  the  stone 
is  taken,  and  fry,  only  on  that  side,  in  a  little  butter.  When 
done,  add  sugar  and  a  little  butter. 

Baked  Apples. — Pare  and  core  good,  sound,  tart  apples. 
Fill  them  with  sugar,  butter,  and  a  flavor  of  spice.  Put  a 
little  water  in  the  pan,  and  bake  until  the  apples  are 
thoroughly  tender. 

Apple  Sauce. — Pare,  core,  and  slice  nice,  juicy  apples  that 
are  not  very  sweet ;  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little 
grated  lemon  peel,  and  water  enough  to  keep  them  from 
burning.  Stew  till  soft  and  tender ;  mash  to  a  paste,  and 
sweeten  well  with  brown  sugar,  adding  a  little  butter  and 
nutmeg. 

Apples  with  Lemon. — Make  a  sirup  of  sugar  and  water. 
Slice  a  lemon  into  it,  and  let  boil  until  clear.  Pare  and  core 
sound,  tart  apples,  cut  into  quarters,  and  lay  them  carefully 
into  the  sirup ;  let  them  cook  gently  until  a  straw  can  be 
run  through  them,  taking  care  not  to  break  them.  Lay  the 
pieces  of  apple  ip  a  glass  dish,  boil  down  the  sirup,  and 
when  slightly  cool,  pour  over  the  apples. 

Apple  Float. — Pare,  slice,  and  stew  six  large  apples  irv  as 
much  water  as  will  cover  them ;  when  well  done,  press  them 
through  a  sieve  and  sweeten  highly  with  crushed  sugar ; 
while  cooling,  beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  stir  into  the  apples  ;  flavor  with  lemon  or  vanilla ;  serve 
with  plenty  of  sweet  cream. 

Transparent  Apple. — Boil  tart,  ripe,  and  juicy  apples  in  a 
little  water;  then  strain  through  a  fine  cloth,  and  add  a 
pound  of  white  sugar  to  a  pint  of  juice,  Boil  till  it  jellies, 


FRESH  FRUITS  AND  NUTS.  205 

and  then  put  into  molds.     It  is  very  nice  served  with  blanc- 
mange in  saucers. 

Baked  Pears. — Place  in  a  stone  jar,  first  a  layer  of  pears, 
with  their  skins  on,  then  a  layer  of  sugar,  then  pears,  and  so 
on  until  the  jar  is  full.  Then  put  in  as  much  water  as  it 
will  hold.  Bake  three  hours. 

Quinces. — Bake  ripe  quinces  thoroughly ;  when  cold,  strip 
off  the  skins,  place  the  quinces  in  a  glass  dish,  and  sprinkle 
them  with  white  sugar ;  serve  with  rich  cream. 

Bananas  and  Cream. — Peel,  slice,  and  heap  up  in  a  glass 
dessert-dish,  and  serve  raw,  with  fine  sugar  and  cream. 

Fried  Bananas. — Cut  the  bananas  into  slices,  and  fry  in  a 
little  butter.  This  makes  a  very  rich  dish. 

Stewed  Rhubarb. — Carefully  remove  the  outer  stringy 
skin ;  then  cut  in  pieces  an  inch  long,  and  simmer  gently  till 
tender  in  water  and  sugar,  and  the  rind  and  juice  of  a  lemon. 
When  done  add  a  bit  of  butter  and  nutmeg. 

Crystallized  Fruit— Pick  out  the  finest  of  any  kind  of  fruit  j 
leave  in  the  stones ;  beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth ;  lay  the  fruit  in  the  beaten  egg,  with  the  stems 
upward  ;  drain  them,  and  beat  the  part  that  drips  off  again ; 
select  them  out,  one  by  one,  and  dip  them  into  finely  pow- 
dered sugar ;  cover  a  pan  with  a  sheet  of  fine  paper,  place 
the  fruit  on  it,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place ;  when  the  icing  on 
the  fruit  becomes  firm,  pile  them  on  a  dish,  and  set  them  in 
a  cold  place. 

Candied  Fruits. — Make  a  very  rich  sirup  with  one  pound 
of  granulated  sugar  to  a  gill  of  water.  Heat  over  boiling 
water  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Pare  and  halve  fine,  ripe, 
but  solid  peaches.  Put  a  single  layer  of  them  in  the  sirup, 
in  a  shallow  vessel ;  cook  slowly  until  clear ;  drain  from  the 
sirup,  and  put  to  dry  in  a  moderately  heated  oven.  When 
fairly  dry  they  may  be  eaten  at  once;  or,  after  drying 


206  EVERY    WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

twenty-four  hours,  they  may  be  packed  for  future  use. 
Plums,  cherries,  and  pears  may  be  candied  in  the  same 
manner. 

Nuts. — Almonds  are  inseparably  joined  with  raisins  in 
table  service ;  so  for  evening  uses,  hickory  nuts  and  apples 
form  a  pleasant  combination.  All  the  harder-shelled  nuts 
should  be  well  cracked  before  they  are  served.  With  the 
softer-shelled,  nut  crackers  should  be  furnished.  Nut  picks 
should  always  be  at  hand. 

Sweet  almonds,  which  are  used  for  dessert,  are  of  several 
varieties.  Those  known  as  the  Syrian,  or  Jordan  almonds, 
are  regarded  as  the  best.  Those  with  hard  shells  are  gen- 
erally richer  in  flavor  than  those  with  the  soft.  Certainly 
the  harder  shell  offers  the  more  effective  protection.  The 
skin  of  almonds  is  not  easily  digested.  For  use  in  cooking 
they  should  be  blanched,  but  for  table  use  this  is  not  desir- 
able. Walnuts  keep  well  and  improve  with  age.  Of  the 
hickory-nut  family,  the  shell-bark  is  considered  best.  These, 
too,  are  the  better  for  age. 


XV.— JELLIES,  JAMS,  AND  PRESERVES. 

WUJIT  FOR  JELLIES,  JAMS,  AND  PRESERVES;  HOW  PREPARED} 
PROPER  SUGAR  TO  USE  ;  QUANTITY  OF  SUGAR  NEEDED  ;  SUITABLE 
PRESERVING-KETTLES;  WHAT  NOT  TO  USE;  THE  FIRE;  CANS 
AND  JARS;  WHERE  STORED  ;  MOLDING  THE  JELLY;  THE  JELLY- 
BAG  ;  STRAINING  JELLY  ;  COVERING  JELLY.  FORTY-FOUR  RECIPES 
FOR  JELLIES,  JAMS,  AND  PRESERVES. 

TO  insure  success  in  preserving  fruits,  the  first  thing  to 
be  looked  after  is  the  fruit  itself.  This  should  be  fully 
ripe,  fresh,  sound,  and  scrupulously  clean  and  dry.  It 
should  be  gathered  in  the  morning  of  a  sunny  day,  as  it  will 
then  possess  its  finest  flavor.  Care  should  be  taken  to  re- 
move all  bruised  or  decayed  parts.  Allowing  them  to  re- 
main will  darken  the  sirup,  and  consequently  impair  the 
beauty  of  the  preserves.  Fruit  requiring  to  be  pared  should 
be  laid  in  water  to  preserve  the  color  after  the  paring.  The 
best  sugar  is  the  cheapest ;  indeed,  there  is  no  economy  in 
stinting  the  sugar,  either  as  to  quality  or  proper  quantity, 
for  inferior  sugar  is  wasted  in  scum,  and  the  preserves  will 
not  keep  unless  a  sufficient  proportion  of  sugar  is  boiled 
with  the  fruit.  At  the  same  time,  too  large  a  proportion  of 
sugar  will  destroy  the  natural  flavor  of  the  fruit,  and  in  all 
probability  make  fruit  candy,  instead  of  the  result  sought. 

The  usual  proportion  in  making  preserves,  is  a  pound  of 
sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit.  There  are  a  few  fruits  which 
require  more  sugar.  In  making  the  sirup,  use  a  small  cup- 
ful of  water  to  a  pound  of  fruit.  The  sirup  should  always 
be  boiled  and  strained  before  putting  the  fruit  in. 

Fruit  should  be  cooked  in  brass  kettles,  or  those  of  bell- 
metal.  Modern  kettles,  lined  with  porcelain,  are  much  use<J 

ZQ7 


208  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

for  this  purpose.  The  kettle  should  be  broad  and  shallow, 
so  that  there  will  be  no  necessity  for  heaping  the  fruit. 
Never  use  tin,  iron,  or  pewter  spoons,  or  skimmers,  for  pre- 
serves, as  they  will  convert  the  color  of  red  fruit  into  a 
dingy  purple,  and  impart,  besides,  a  very  unpleasant  flavor. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  place  the  kettle  flat 
upon  the  fire,  as  this  will  be  likely  to  burn  at  the  bottom. 

Glass  jars  are  much  the  best  for  preserves,  as  the  condi- 
tion of  the  fruit  can  be  observed  more  readily.  Whatever 
jars  are  used,  however,  the  contents  should  be  examined 
every  three  weeks  for  the  first  two  months,  and  if  there  are 
any  signs  of  either  mold  or  fermentation  it  should  be  boiled 
over  again.  Preserves  should  be  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place, 
but  not  in  one  into  which  fresh  air  never  enters.  Damp  has 
a  tendency  to  make  the  fruit  mold,  and  heat  to  make  it 
ferment. 

A  jelly-bag  should  be  in  every  kitchen.  It  should  be 
made  of  flannel,  pointed  at  the  bottom,  so  that  the  jelly  will 
run  out  chiefly  at  one  point.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  sew  a 
strong  loop  to  the  top  of  the  bag,  so  that  it  may  be  hung 
upon  a  nail  near  the  fire,  that  the  juice  of  the  fruit  may  run 
through  gradually  into  a  vessel  below.  The  bag  should  not 
be  squeezed  with  the  hands,  if  you  wish  a  very  clear  jelly. 
After  the  clear  juice  has  been  obtained,  the  remainder  may 
be  pressed,  to  make  a  very  excellent,  but  inferior  article  of 
jelly  or  marmalade. 

Rinse  the  tumblers  or  bowls  to  be  used  in  cold  water 
just  before  filling  with  jelly  or  marmalade.  When  the  jelly 
is  cold,  fit  a  circle  of  tissue-paper,  dip  it  in  brandy,  and 
place  it  directly  on  the  surface  of  the  fruit.  This  simple 
precaution  will  save  the  housekeeper  much  annoyance  by 
protecting  the  conserve  from  mold.  Should  the  fungus  form 
inside  the  upper  cover  of  the  glass,  the  inner  will  effectually 
shield  the  contents.  Paste  thick  paper  over  the  top  of  the 
glass  to  exclude  the  air. 


JELLIES,  JAMS,  AND  PRESERVES.  209 

RECIPES. 

Omrant  Jelly. — Never  gather  currants  or  other  soft  or 
small  seed  fruit  immediately  after  a  rain  for  preserving  pur- 
poses, as  they  are  greatly  impoverished  by  the  moisture 
absorbed.  In  this  climate,  the  first  week  in  July  is  usually 
considered  the  time  to  make  currant  jelly.  Weigh  the  cur- 
rants without  removing  the  stems ;  do  not  wash  them,  but 
remove  leaves  and  whatever  may  adhere  to  them  ;  to  each 
pound  of  fruit  allow  half  the  weight  of  granulated  or  pure 
loaf  sugar ;  put  a  few  currants  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle, 
and  press  them  with  a  potato-masher,  or  anything  conven- 
ient, in  order  to  secure  sufficient  liquid  to  prevent  burning ; 
then  add  the  remainder  of  the  fruit  and  boil  freely  for  twenty 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally  to  prevent  burning ;  take  out 
and  strain  through  a  jelly-bag,  putting  the  liquid  into  earthen 
or  wooden  vessels.  When  strained,  return  the  liquid  to  the 
kettle,  without  the  trouble  of  measuring,  and  let  it  boil 
thoroughly  for  a  moment  or  so  ;  then  add  the  sugar ;  the 
moment  the  sugar  is  entirely  dissolved,  the  jelly  is  done, 
and  must  be  dished,  or  placed  in  glasses ;  it  will  jelly  upon 
the  side  of  the  cup  as  it  is  taken  up,  leaving  no  doubt  as  to 
the  result. 

Currant  Jelly,  No.  2. — Take  three  quarts  of  fine,  ripe,  red 
currants,  and  four  of  white ;  put  them  into  a  jar,  tie  paper 
over  the  top,  and  put  them  into  a  cool  oven  for  three  or  four 
hours,  or  else  into  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  or  set  them  on 
the  side  of  the  range ;  when  they  are  thoroughly  heated, 
strain  through  a  jelly-bag.  To  every  pint  of  juice,  add  one 
pound  of  granulated  sugar,  and  boil  from  five  to  fifteen 
minutes ;  turn  while  hot  into  wet  tumblers. 

Currant  Jelly  without  Cooking. — Press  the  juice  from  the 
currants  and  strain. it;  to  every  pint  put  a  pound  of  fine  white 
augar ;  mix  them  together  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved ;  thec 


210  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

put  it  in  jars ;  seal  them  and  expose  them  to  a  hot  sun  for 
two  or  three  days. 

Black  Currant  Jelly. — Boil  the  currants  till  the  juice  flows, 
then  strain  through  a  jelly-bag,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  for 
twenty  minutes,  after  which  add  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a 
pound  of  juice,  and  boil  for  about  ten  minutes. 

White  Currant  Jelly. — Strip  the  fruit  off  the  stems,  and 
pound  it  in  a  clean  wooden  bowl.  Drip  the  juice  gently 
through  a  jelly-bag.  Prepare  a  very  pure,  clear  sirup  of  the 
best  white  sugar;  allow  a  pint  of  juice  to  a  pound  of  sugar; 
boil  it  ten  minutes  only.  Put  it  in  glass  preserve-tumblers, 
cover  with  paper  to  fit  exactly,  and  keep  it  dry  and  cool. 

Apple  Jelly. — Take  twenty  large,  juicy  apples;  pare  and 
chop ;  put  into  a  jar  with  the  rind  of  four  large  lemons, 
pared  thin  and  cut  in  bits ;  cover  the  jar  closely,  and  set  in 
a  pot  of  boiling  water;  keep  water  boiling  all  around  it  until 
the  apples  are  dissolved ;  strain  through  a  jelly-bag,  and 
mix  with  the  liquid  the  juice  of  four  lemons  ;  to  one  pint  of 
mixed  juice  use  one  pound  of  sugar;  put  in  kettle,  and  when 
the  sugar  is  melted  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  and  skim 
about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  it  is  a  thick,  fine  jelly. 

Apple  Jelly,  No.  2. — Peel  and  core  sour  apples ;  boil  them 
in  a  very  little  water,  and  strain  them  through  a  jelly-bag. 
Measure,  and  allow  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar  to  a  pint 
of  juice.  Mix  the  sugar  and  juice  well  together,  and  let  it 
boil  from  five  to  ten  minutes.  Put  it  warm  into  glasses  ; 
cut  some  white  paper  to  fit  the  top,  dip  it  in  brandy,  and  lay 
on  when  the  jelly  is  cool ;  paste  or  tie  thick  paper  over  the 
glasses,  and  when  cold  put  away  in  a  dark,  dry  place. 

Crab-apple  Jelly. — Wash  and  quarter  Siberian  crab-apples. 
Cover  with  cold  water  and  let  cook  until  thoroughly  tender. 
Strain  through  a  jelly-bag,  and  to  every  pint  of  juice  add 
one  pound  of  sugar.  Let  cook  until  it  will  jelly  A  slight 
flavoring  of  essence  of  cinnamon  is  an  improvement. 


JELLIES,  JAMS,  AND  PRESERVES.  211 

Quince  Jelly. — Take  very  ripe  quinces  ;  peel  and  core,  and 
boil  in  a  little  water  till  very  soft ;  drain  off  the  juice 
through  a  coarse  towel,  add  an  equal  measure  of  sugar,  and 
boil  twenty  minutes. 

Grape  Jelly. — Mash  the  grapes  thoroughly  and  strain 
out  the  juice.  Add  an  equal  measure  of  sugar,  and  boil 
twenty  minutes. 

Barberry  Jelly.— Pick  the  berries  from  the  stalks,  mash 
them,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  Squeeze  through  a  jelly- 
bag;  allow  a  pound  of  white  sugar  to  a  pound  of  juice; 
melt  the  sugar  in  the  juice,  and  boil  half  an  hour. 

Raspberry  Jelly. — Crush  the  raspberries  and  strain  through 
a  wet  cloth.  Add  an  equal  measure  of  sugar,  and  boil  from 
ten  to  twenty  minutes. 

Apple  Marmalade. — Pare,  core,  and  slice  two  or  three  dozen 
tart,  juicy  apples ;  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
every  pint  of  juice.  Stew  until  tender  in  just  enough  cold 
water  to  cover  them.  Drain  off  the  juice  through  a  colan- 
der, and  put  into  a  preserving-kettle,  stirring  into  it  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  for  every  pint  of  the  liquid. 
Boil  until  it  begins  to  jelly;  strain  the  juice  of  two  lemons 
into  it;  put  in  the  apples,  and  stew  pretty  fast,  stirring- 
almost  constantly,  until  it  becomes  thick  and  smooth.  If 
the  apples  are  not  entirely  soft,  rub  them  through  the  col- 
ander before  adding  them  to  the  boiling  sirup. 

Quince  Marmalade. — Take  very  ripe  quinces ;  wash,  pare 
and  core  them  ;  to  each  pound  of  fruit  allow  one  pound  of 
loaf  sugar.  Boil  the  parings  and  cores  together,  with  water 
enough  to  cover  them,  till  quite  soft ;  strain  the  liquid  into 
the  preserving-kettle  with  the  fruit  and  sugar.  Boil  the 
whole  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  frequently  until  the  mass  be- 
comes  thick. 

Pear  and  Quince  Marmalade. — Pare  and  core  two  dozen 
juicy  pears  and  ten  fine,  rips  quinces.  Add  three-quarters 


212  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  pound  of  fruit  and  the  juice  o? 
three  lemons.  Throw  them  into  cold  water,  and  stew  the 
parings  and  cores  in  a  little  water  to  make  the  sirup.  When 
they  have  boiled  to  pieces,  strain  off  the  liquid ;  when  cold, 
put  in  the  sliced  fruit  and  bring  to  a  fast  boil.  When  the 
mass  is  thick  and  smooth,  cook  steadily  for  an  hour  or  more, 
working  with  a  wooden  spoon  to  a  rich  jelly. 

Pineapple  Marmalade. — Take  ripe,  juicy  pineapples ;  pare, 
cut  out  the  specks  very  carefully,  and  grate  on  a  coarse 
grater  all  but  the  core.  Weigh,  and  allow  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  a  pound  of  fruit.  Cook  from  twenty  minutes  to  half  an 
hour. 

Orange  Marmalade. — Take  eighteen  sweet,  ripe  oranges,  six 
pounds  best  white  sugar.  Grate  the  peel  from  four  of  these 
and  reserve  it  for  the  marmalade.  The  rinds  of  the  others 
will  not  be  needed.  Pare  the  fruit  carefully,  removing  the 
inner  white  skin  as  well  as  the  yellow.  Slice  the  orange  ; 
remove  the  seeds ;  put  the  fruit  and  grated  peel  in  a  porce- 
lain kettle,  and  boil  steadily  until  the  pulp  is  reduced  to  a 
smooth  mass.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  put  through  a  col- 
ander. Stir  in  six  pounds  of  the  best  white  sugar ;  return 
to  the  fire,  and  boil  fast,  stirring  constantly  half  an  hour  or 
until  thick. 

Grape  Marmalade. — Put  green  grapes  into  a  preserving-pan 
with  sufficient  water  to  cover  them.  Put  them  on  the  fire, 
and  boil  until  reduced  to  a  mash  ;  put  the  pulp  through  a 
sieve  which  will  strain  out  the  seeds ;  to  each  pound  of  pulp 
add  two  pounds  of  the  best  loaf  sugar,  and  boil  to  the  con- 
sistence of  a  jelly. 

Peach  Marmalade. — Select  peaches  which  are  quite  ripe ; 
pare  and  cut  them  in  small  pieces ;  to  every  pound  of  fruit 
add  one  pound  of  sugar ;  put  the  fruit  and  sugar  into  a  pre- 
serving-kettle, and  mash  well  together ;  place  it  over  the  fire, 
and  when  it  begins  to  boil,  stir  until  it  becomes  quite  thick. 


f  JELLIES,  JAMS,  AND  PRESERVES.  „  213 

Cherry  Jam. — First  stone  and  then  weigh  some  'freshly 
gathered  preserving  cherries;  boil  them  over  a  brisk  fire 
for  an  hour,  keeping  them  almost  constantly  stirred  from  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  to  which  they  will  otherwise  be  liable  to 
stick  and  burn.  Add  for  each  pound  of  the  fruit  half  a 
pound  of  good  sugar  roughly  powdered,  and  boil  quickly 
for  twenty  minutes,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it  rises. 

Blackberry  Jam. — To  four  bowls  of  blackberries  add  four 
bowls  of  sugar;  boil  until  it  jellies. 

Raspberry  Jam. — Mash  the  raspberries,  and  allow  a  pound 
of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit.  Boil  twenty  minutes.  A  few 
currants  added  to  raspberry  jam  is  considered  by  many  a 
great  improvement. 

Barberry  Jam. — The  barberries  should  be  quite  ripe,  though 
they  should  not  be  allowed  to  hang  until  they  begin  to 
decay.  Strip  them  from  the  stalks,  throw  aside  such  as  are 
spotted,  and  for  each  pound  of  fruit  allow  eighteen  ounces  of 
well-refined  sugar ;  boil  this,  with  one  pint  of  water  to  every 
four  pounds,  until  it  becomes  white  and  falls  in  thick 
masses  from  the  spoon ;  then  throw  in  the  fruit,  and  keep  it 
stirred  over  a  brisk  fire  for  six  minutes  only ;  take  off  tho 
scum,  and  pour  it  into  jars  or  glasses. 

Strawberry  Jam. — Use  fine,  scarlet  berries ;  weigh  and  boil 
them  for  thirty-five  minutes,  keeping  them  constantly 
stirred ;  add  eight  ounces  of  good  sugar  to  the  pound  of 
fruit ;  mix  them  well  off  the  fire,  then  boil  again  quickly  for 
twenty-five  minutes.  One  pound  of  white  currant  juice 
added  at  the  outset  to  four  of  the  strawberries  will  greatly 
improve  this  preserve. 

White  Currant  Jam. — Boil  together  quickly  for  seven  min- 
utes equal  quantities  of  fine  white  currants,  picked  very  care- 
fully, and  of  the  best  white  sugar  pounded  and  passed 
through  a  sieve.  Stir  the  preserve  gently  the  whole  time, 


214  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

and  skim  it  thoroughly.  Just  before  it  is  taken  from  tha 
fire,  throw  in  the  strained  juice  of  one  good  lemon  to  four 
pounds  of  the  fruit 

Dainson  Jam. — The  fruit  for  this  jam  should  be  freshly 
gathered  and  quite  ripe.  Split,  stone,  weigh,  and  boil  it 
quickly  for  forty  minutes ;  then  stir  in  half  its  weight  of 
good  sugar  roughly  powdered,  and  when  it  is  dissolved, 
give  the  preserve  fifteen  minutes  additional  boiling,  keeping 
it  stirred  and  thoroughly  skimmed. 

Green  Gage  Jam. — Rub  ripe  green  gages  through  a  sieve ;  put 
all  the  pulp  into  a  pan  with  an  equal  weight  of  loaf  sugar 
pounded  and  sifted.  Boil  the  whole  until  sufficiently  thick, 
and  put  into  glasses. 

Preserved  Peaches. — Weigh  the  peaches,  and  allow  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  pound  of  fruit.  Throw 
about  half  the  sugar  over  the  fruit,  and  let  it  stand  over 
night.  In  the  morning  drain  the  sirup  off  the  fruit,  add  the 
rest  of  the  sugar,  and  let  that  come  to  a  boil.  Put  the 
peaches  in,  and  let  them  boil  until  you  can  stick  a  straw 
through  them.  In  cooking  the  peaches,  put  a  few  at  a  time 
only  in  the  sirup  to  cook. 

Preserved  Peaches,  No.  2.— Weigh  the  fruit  after  it  is  pared 
and  the  stones  extracted  and  allow  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every 
pound  of  peaches.  Put  the  sugar  in  a  preserving-kettle,  and 
make  the  sirup;  let  it  just  boil ;  lay  the  peaches  in,  and  let 
them  boil  steadily  until  they  are  tender  and  clear.  Take 
them  out  with  a  perforated  skimmer  and  lay  upon  flat 
dishes,  crowding  as  little  as  possible.  Boil  the  sirup  almost 
to  a  jelly,  until  it  is  clear  and  thick,  skimming  off  all  the 
scum.  Fill  the  jars  two-thirds  full  of  the  peaches,  pour  on 
the  boiling  sirup,  and,  when  cold,  cover  with  brandied 
tissue-paper,  then  with  thick  paper  tied  tightly  over  them. 
Or  put  them  in  air-tight  jars. 


JELLIL^  JAMS,  AND  PRESERVES.  215 

Preserved  Quinces. — Use  a  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound 
of  quince  after  paring,  coring,  and  quartering ;  take  half  of 
the  sugar  and  make  a  thin  sirup ;  stew  in  this  a  few  of  the 
quinces  at  a  time  till  all  are  finished.  Make  a  rich  sirup  of 
the  remaining  sugar,  and  pour  over  them. 

Pineapple  Preserves. — Use  pineapples  as  ripe  as  can  be  had. 
Pare  and  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  weigh  them,  and  allow 
one  pound  of  the  best  granulated  sugar  to  each  pound  of 
fruit.  Take  a  deep  china  bowl  or  dish,  and  in  it  put  a  layer 
of  fruit  and  sugar  alternately,  a  coating  of  sugar  on  the  top ; 
let  it  stand  all  night.  In  the  morning,  take  out  the  fruit  and 
put  the  sirup  into  a  preserving-kettle.  Boil  and  skim  it  until 
it  is  perfectly  clear ;  then,  while  it  is  boiling  hot,  pour  it 
over  the  fruit,  and  let  it  stand  uncovered  until  it  becomes 
entirely  cold.  If  it  stands  covered,  the  steam  will  fall  into 
the  sirup  and  thin  it. 

Preserved  Pears. — Preserved  pears  are  put  up  precisely  as 
are  peaches,  but  are  only  pared,  not  cored  or  divided,  "Leave 
the  stems  on. 

Watermelon  Rind  Preserves.— Select  rind  which  is  firm, 
green,  and  thick ;  cut  in  any  fanciful  shape,  such  as  leaves, 
stars,  diamonds,  etc.  Then  weigh,  and  to  each  pound  of 
rind  allow  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  loaf  sugar.  To  green 
them,  take  a  brass  or  copper  kettle,  and  to  a  layer  of  grape- 
vine leaves,  which  should  be  well  washed,  add  a  layer  of 
the  rind,  and  so  on  until  the  last,  which  should  be  a  thick 
layer  of  the  leaves,  and  well  covered  with  a  coarse  linen 
cloth.  To  each  pound  of  the  rind,  add  a  piece  of  alum  the 
size  of  a  pea ;  then  fill  up  with  warm  water  sufficient  to 
cover  the  whole,  and  let  it  stand  upon  the  stove,  where  it 
will  steam,  but  not  boil,  until  the  greening  is  completed, 
which  will  be  in  two  or  three  hours.  When  green,  lay  them 
in  clear,  cold  water,  and  make  your  sirup.  To  each  pound 
of  sngar  add  one  and  a  half  pints  of  water ;  clarify,  put  in 


216  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOtf. 

your  rind ;  slice  lemons,  two  to  each  pound  of  rind,  and 
when  about  half  done  add  the  lemons.  Boil  until  the  rind 
is  perfectly  transparent.  A  few  pieces  of  ginger-root  may 
be  added,  which  will  impart  a  high  flavor,  and  will  blend 
very  delightfully  with  the  lemons. 

Preserved  Citron.— Proceed  the  same  as  above,  substituting 
citron  for  the  watermelon  rind. 

Preserved  Strawberries. — Procure  fresh,  large  strawberries 
when  in  their  prime,  but  not  so  ripe  as  to  be  very  soft ;  hull 
and  weigh  them ;  take  an  equal  weight  of  sugar,  make  a 
sirup,  and  when  boiling  hot,  put  in  the  berries.  A  small 
quantity  only  should  be  done  at  once.  If  crowded,  they 
will  become  mashed.  Let  them  boil  about  twenty  minutes, 
or  a  half  an  hour ;  turn  into  tumblers  or  small  jars,  and  seal 
with  egg  papers  while  hot. 

Preserved  Cherries. — Wash,  stem,  and  stone  the  cherries ; 
save  every  drop  of  the  juice,  and  use  it  in  place  of  water  in 
making  the  sirup.  Make  a  sirup,  allowing  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  every  pound  of  fruit ;  add  the  fruit,  and  let  it  simmer 
gently  for  half  an  hour,  skimming  as  is  necessary. 

Damson  Preserves. — To  four  pounds  of  damsons  use  three 
pounds  of  sugar ;  prick  each  damson  with  a  needle ;  dis- 
solve the  sugar  with  one-half  pint  of  water,  and  put  it  on 
the  fire ;  when  it  simmers,  put  in  as  many  damsons  as  will 
lie  on  the  top ;  when  they  open,  take  them  out  and  lay  them 
on  a  dish,  and  put  others  in,  and  so  on  until  all  have  been 
in ;  then  put  them  all  in  the  kettle  together  and  let  them 
stew  until  done ;  put  them  in  jars  and  seal  them. 

Green  Gage  Preserves. — When  the  fruit  is  ripe,  wipe  them 
clean,  and  to  one  pound  of  fruit  put  one-quarter  pound  of 
sugar,  which  will  make  a  fine  sirup ;  boil  the  fruit  in  this 
sirup  until  it  is  perfectly  done ;  then  use  a  fresh  sirup  of  one 
pound  of  fruit  to  one  pound  of  sugar;  moistening  the  sugar 


JELLIES,  JAMS,  AND  PRESERVES.  217 

with  water.  When  the  sirup  boils  put  in  the  fruit,  and  leave 
for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  put  the  fruit  in  jars ;  boil  the  sirup 
until  thick ;  when  cooled  to  milkwarm,  pour  it  over  the 
fruit;  tie  the  jars  tightly  and  keep  in  a  warm  place. 

Strawberries  in  Wine. — Put  a  quantity  of  the  finest  large 
strawberries  in  a  bottle,  strew  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  fill  the  bottle  up  with  Madeira  or  Sherry 
wine. 

Grapes  in  Brandy. — Take  some  close  bunches  of  grapes, 
white  or  black,  not  overripe,  and  lay  them  in  ajar.  Put  a 
good  quantity  of  pounded  white  candy  upon  them,  and  fill 
up  the  jar  with  brandy.  Tie  them  close  down,  and  keep  in 
a  dry  place.  Prick  each  grape  with  a  needle  three  times. 

Brandy  Peaches. — Take  large,  juicy  freestone  peaches,  not 
so  ripe  as  to  burst  or  mash  on  being  handled.  Rub  the 
down  from  them  with  a  clean  thick  flannel.  Prick  every 
peach  down  to  the  stone  with  a  large  silver  fork,  and  score 
them  all  along  the  seam  or  cleft.  To  each  pound  of  peaches 
allow  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar  and  half  a  pint  of  water 
mixed  with  half  a  white  of  egg,  slightly  beaten.  Put  the 
sugar  into  a  porcelain  kettle  and  pour  the  water  upon  it. 
When  it  is  quite  melted,  give  it  a  stirring,  set  it  over  the 
fire,,  and  boil  and  skim  it  till  no  more  scum  rises.  Then 
put  in  the  peaches,  and  let  them  cook  (uncovered)  in  the 
sirup  till  a  straw  will  penetrate  them.  Then  take  the  kettle 
off  the  fire,  and  take  out  the  fruit  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
draining  it  over  the  kettle.  Let  the  sirup  remain  in  the  ket- 
tle a  little  longer.  Mix  a  pint  of  the  very  best  white  brandy 
for  each  pound  of  peaches,  with  the  sirup,  and  boil  them 
together  ten  minutes  or  more.  Transfer  the  peaches  to 
large  glass  jars,  making  each  about  two-thirds  full,  and 
pour  the  brandy  and  sirup  over  them,  filling  the  jars  full. 
When  cool,  cover  closely. 

— Seven  pounds  of  fruit,  one  pint  vinegar, 


218  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

three  pounds  sugar,  two  ounces  cinnamon,  one-half  ounce 
cloves.  Scald  together  the  sugar,  vinegar,  and  spices ;  pour 
over  the  fruit.  Let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours ;  drain  off, 
scald  again,  and  pour  over  fruit,  letting  it  stand  another 
twenty-four  hours.  Boil  all  together  until  the  fruit  is  tender. 
Skim  it  out,  and  boil  the  liquor  until  thickened.  Pour  over 
the  fruit  and  set  away  in  a  jar. 

Apple  Butter. — Boil  down  a  kettieful  of  cider  to  two- 
thirds  the  original  quantity.  Pare,  core,  and  slice  juicy 
apples,  and  put  as  many  into  the  cider  as  it  will  cover.  Boil 
slowly,  stirring  often  with  a  flat  stick,  and  when  the  apples 
are  tender  to  breaking, » take  them  out  with  a  perforated 
skimmer,  draining  well  against  the  sides  of  the  kettle.  Put 
in  a  second  supply  of  apples  and  stew  them  soft,  as  many 
as  the  cider  will  hold.  Take  from  the  fire,  pour  all  together 
into  a  tub  or  large  crock;  cover  and  let  it  stand  twelve 
hours.  Then  return  to  the  kettle  and  boil  down,  stirring  all 
the  while  until  it  is  the  consistency  of  thick  custard  and 
brown  in  color.  Spice  well  with  Durkee's  ground  mixed 
spices. 

Peach  Butter. — To  one  bushel  of  peaches  allow  from  eight 
to  ten  pounds  of  granulated  sugar;  pare  and  halve  the 
peaches,  put  into  the  kettle,  and  stir  constantly,  to  prevent 
sticking  to  the  kettle,  until  perfectly  smooth  and  rather 
thick ;  a  part  of  the  peach-stones  thrown  in  and  cooked 
with  the  peaches  give  it  a  nice  flavor,  and  they  can  be  after- 
ward skimmed  out ;  add  the  sugar  a  short  time  before  tak- 
ing from  the  fire ;  put  in  jars  and  cover  tight ;  peaches  for 
butter  should  be  neither  too  mealy  nor  too  juicy. 


XVI.— CANNED  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES. 

WIDESPREAD  USE  OF  CANNED  GOODS;  PHILOSOPHY  OF  CANNING 
FRUITS  ;  HOW  TO  FILL  THE  JARS  ;  WHAT  JARS  ARE  BEST  }  SELEC- 
TION OF  THE  FRUIT  ;  WHERE  TO  STORE  THE  CANS;  NEED  OF 
WATCHING  THE  CANS.  TWELVE  RECIPES  OF  CANNING  FRUIT 
AND  VEGETABLES. 

/BANNED  fruits  and  vegetables  of  all  kinds  may  now  be 
I  .  found  abundantly  in  the  stores.  Their  prices  are  so 
low  that  they  present  a  strong  inducement  to  the 
housekeeper  to  omit  the  labor  incident  to  home  canning,  and 
simply  to  purchase  what  is  needed. 

What  is  aimed  at  in  all  these  processes  is  the  entire  ex- 
clusion of  air  from  the  fruit.  Its  expulsion  from  them  is 
effected  by  using  heat  enough  to  cook  them,  after  which  the 
hermetical  sealing  does  the  remaining  service.  Solder,  wax, 
and  rubber  bands  do  this  sealing  work. 

If  it  is  desired  to  preserve  the  fruit  whole,  it  may  be  put 
into  the  jars  before  heating.  Fill  the  jars  with  water,  and 
set  them  into  a  wash-boiler  of  cold  water,  the  water  reach- 
ing three-fourths  of  the  way  to  the  tops  of  the  jars.  Do  not 
set  them  directly  on  the  bottom,  but  on  a  little  hay,  lest  the 
heat  cause  them  to  crack.  Bring  the  water  slowly  to  a  boil, 
and  let  it  boil  about  five  minutes.  The  cans  may  then  be 
taken  out,  stirred  lightly,  or  shaken,  to  expel  any  remaining 
air  bubbles ;  then  fill  to  the  brim  with  boiling  water  and 
close  the  jars.  No  air  bubbles  should  remain  in  the  can. 
If  the  fruit  can  be  cooked  before  canning,  the  process  is 
much  simpler,  as  the  boiling  material  itself  expels  the  air. 
The  cans  in  thJ5  case  neetf  simply  to  be  filled  and  then 


220  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

While  filling  jars,  be  careful  that  no  current  of  cold  alt 
strike  them,  as  this  would  suffice  to  crack  a  glass  jar.  When 
a  jar  has  cracked,  it  is  hardly  safe  to  use  its  contents,  as 
fragments  of  glass  may  be  contained  in  the  fruit,  which 
would  be  fatal  if  swallowed. 

Cans  should  be  of  glass  or  stoneware,  as  the  acids  of 
fruit  act  chemically  on  tin  or  other  metals,  often  destroying 
the  flavor  of  the  fruit,  and  sometimes  rendering  it  absolutely 
unwholesome.  Do  not  use  a  metal  spoon  even.  Either  self- 
sealing  cans,  or  those  which  require  wax,  may  be  used  suc- 
cessfully, but  probably  the  former  are  best  for  those  of  little 
experience,  and  they  are  unquestionably  more  convenient. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  self-sealing  cans,  all  of  them 
highly  recommended,  and  doubtless  all  of  them  sufficiently 
good.  The  "Valve  Jar,"  the  "Mason,"  and  the  "Hero" 
are  among  the  best  known  and  most  reliable. 

Fruit  should  be  selected  with  the  greatest  care.  Some 
varieties  cannot  be  preserved  at  all,  unless  canned  when  per- 
fectly fresh,  and  success  is  more  certain  with  all  kinds  in 
proportion  to  freshness  and  soundness.  The  fruit  should  be 
nearly  or  quite  ripe,  but  not  over-ripe,  and  all  which  bears 
signs  of  decay  should  be  rejected. 

In  canning,  as  in  preserving,  granulated  sugar  should 
always  be  used,  and  also  a  porcelain-lined  kettle.  Peaches, 
pears,  or  other  large  fruit  may,  by  the  aid  of  a  fork,  be 
tastily  arranged  in  the  jars,  piece  by  piece.  The  boiling 
juice  may  be  added  afterward  to  cover  them.  Thus  ar- 
ranged they  appear  prettier  in  the  jars,  though,  of  course, 
the  flavor  is  not  improved. 

All  canning  work  should  be  done  expeditiously,  and  the 
cans  be  set  away  to  cool.  They  should  be  kept  in  a  cool, 
dark  place  and  closely  watched  for  a  few  days,  to  see  that 
the  sealing  is  perfect.  If  the  fruit  shows  signs  of  not  being 
perfectly  sealed,  it  should  be  at  once  taken  out,  scalded,  and 
•sealed  again. 


CANNED  FRUITS,  ETC.  221 

RECIPES. 

Canned  Strawberries.— Fill  glass  jars  with  fresh  strawberries 
sprinkled  with  sugar,  allowing  a  little  over  one-quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  berries  ;  set  the  jars  in  a 
boiler,  with  a  little  hay  laid  in  the  bottom  to  prevent  the 
jars  from  breaking ;  fill  with  cold  water  to  within  an  inch  or 
two  of  the  tops  of  the  jars ;  let  them  &#7  fifteen  minutes,  then 
move  back  to  the  boiler,  wrap  the  hand  in  a  towel,  and  take 
out  the  jars  ;  fill  the  jars  to  the  top  before  sealing,  using  one 
or  more  of  the  filled  jars  for  that  purpose  if  necessary. 

Canned  Gooseberries. — Fill  very  clean,  dry,  wide-necked 
bottles  with  gooseberries  gathered  the  same  day  and  before 
they  have  attained  their  full  growth.  Cork  them  tightly, 
wrap  a  little  hay  round  each  of  them,  and  set  them  up  to 
their  necks  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  which  should  be 
brought  very  gradually  to  boil.  Let  the  fruit  be  gently 
simmered  until  it  appears  shrunken  and  perfectly  scalded ; 
then  take  out  the  bottles,  and  with  the  contents  of  one  or 
two  fill  up  the  remainder.  Use  great  care  not  to  break  the 
fruit  in  doing  this.  When  all  are  ready,  pour  scalding 
water  into  the  bottles  and  cover  the  gooseberries  entirely 
with  it,  or  they  will  become  moldy  at  the  top.  Cork  the 
bottles  well  immediately,  and  cover  the  necks  with  melted 
resin ;  keep  them  in  a  cool  place ;  and  when  they  are  used 
pour  off  the  greater  part  of  the  water  and  add  sugar  as  for 
the  fresh  fruit. 

Canned  Peaches. — Peel  and  quarter  choice  peaches.  To 
peel,  place  them  in  a  wire  basket,  dip  into  boiling  water  a 
moment  and  then  into  cold  water,  and  strip  off  the  skins. 
Have  a  porcelain-kettle  with  boiling  water  and  another  with 
sirup  made  with  granulated  sugar ;  drop  the  peaches  into 
boiling  water  (some  previously  boil  the  pits  in  the  water  for 
their  flavor)  and  let  them  cook  until  tender;  then  lift  them 
out  carefully  into  a  can,  pouring  over  them  all  the  sirup  the 


222  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

can  will  hold,  and  seal  immediately.     Cook  only  peaches 
enough  to  fill  one  can  at  a  time. 

Canned  Peaches,  No.  2. — Pare  and  stone  peaches  enough  fot 
two  jars  at  a  time.  If  many  are  pared,  they  will  become  dark 
colored  by  standing.  Rinse  in  cold  water ;  then  cook  in  a 
rich  sirup  of  sugar  and  water  about  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
or  until  they  are  clear.  Put  into  jars  all  that  are  not  broken; 
fill  up  with  the  hot  sirup,  about  as  thick  as  ordinary  mo- 
lasses, and  seal.  The  same  sirup  will  do  to  cook  several  jars. 
After  the  sirup  becomes  dark,  it,  with  the  broken  peaches, 
can  be  used  for  marmalade  or  peach  butter.  The  same 
method  can  be  used  for  pears,  plums,  and  all  light  fruits. 

Canned  Pineapple. — Use  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  one  pound  of  fruit.  Pick  the  pineapple  to  pieces  with  a 
silver  fork.  Scald  and  can  while  hot 

Canned  Grapes. — Squeeze  the  pulp  from  the  skin ;  boil  the 
pulp  until  the  seeds  begin  to  loosen,  having  the  skins  boiling 
hard  and  separately  in  a  little  water.  When  the  pulp  seems 
tender,  put  it  through  the  sieve ;  then  add  the  skins,  if  ten- 
der, with  the  water  they  boil  in,  if  not  too  much.  Use  a 
large  cofTeecupful  of  sugar  for  a  quart  can ;  boil  until  thick, 
and  can  in  the  usual  way. 

Canned  Plums. — Prick  each  plum  with  a  needle  to  prevent 
bursting ;  prepare  a  sirup,  allowing  a  gill  of  pure  water  and 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  three  quarts  of  fruit. 
When  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  the  water  blood-warm,  put 
in  the  plums.  Heat  slowly  to  a  boil.  Let  them  boil  five 
minutes — not  fast  or  they  will  break  badly — fill  up  the  jars 
with  plums,  pour  in  the  scalding  sirup  until  it  runs  down 
the  sides,  and  seal.  Green  gages  are  very  fine  put  up  in  this 
way,  also  damsons  for  pies. 

Canned  Pears. — Select  finely  flavored  fruit ;  either  halve  and 
fcpre  tftern  or  ppre  ^Jjple ;  mafce  a  $jrup 


CANNED  FRUITS,  ETC.  223 

using  as  little  water  as  will  dissolve  the  sugar.  Add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit.  Place  the 
fruit  in  the  kettle  carefully,  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil  or  until 
the  fruit  is  well  scalded.  Turn  into  the  jars  hot,  and  seal  at 
once. 

Canned  Tomatoes. — Pour  boiling  water  over  the  tomatoes 
to  loosen  the  skins.  Remove  these  ;  drain  off  all  the  juice 
that  will  come  away  without  pressing  hard ;  put  them  into  a 
kettle  and  heat  slowly  to  a  boil.  The  tomatoes  will  look 
much  nicer  if  all  the  hard  parts  be  removed  before  putting 
them  on  the  fire.  Rub  the  pulp  soft  with  your  hands.  Boil 
half  an  hour ;  dip  out  the  surplus  liquid,  pour  the  tomatoes, 
boiling  hot,  into  the  cans,  and  seal.  Keep  in  a  cool,  dark 
place. 

Canned  Beans. — Remove  the  strings  at  the  sides,  and  cut 
into  pieces  about  an  inch  long  ;  put  them  into  boiling  water 
and  scald,  then  can  them. 

Canned  Asparagus. — Cut  away  all  the  hard  part  of  the  stem 
and  boil  the  top  portion  until  nearly  done,  just  as  if  about 
to  serve  at  once.  Flat  cans  are  best,  into  which  the  stems 
can  be  laid  regularly,  the  water  in  which  they  were  boiled 
being  poured  over  them  boiling  hot,  and  the  can  sealed.  If 
jars  or  high  cans  are  used,  pack  the  asparagus  into  them 
until  they  are  full.  Fill  the  cans  with  water ;  set  them  on 
hay  in  a  boiler  of  cold  water  reaching  to  within  an  inch  of 
their  tops ;  then  bring  to  a  boil  and  nearly  finish  cooking 
the  stems.  Wrap  the  hand  in  a  towel ;  take  out  the  cans 
and  seal  or  solder  them  as  in  other  vegetables. 

Canned  Corn. — Boil  sweet  corn  till  nearly  done  ;  cut  close 
from  the  cobs  and  fill  the  jars ;  pour  on  water  in  which  the 
corn  was  boiled ;  place  in  a  boiler  and  just  bring  to  a  boil, 
as  above ;  then  take  gut  and  seal. 


XVII.— PICKLES  AND  CATSUPS. 

SICKLES  MORE  POPULAR  THAN  WHOLESOME  ;  GREENING  PICKLES  > 
WHAT  KETTLES  AND  JARS  SHOULD  NOT  BE  USED  IN  PICKLING  J 
CHOOSING  THE  FRUIT,  SPICES,  ETC.  ;  HOW  TO  KEEP  PICKLES  ; 
CATSUPS,  HOW  MADE,  ETC.  THIRTY-THREE  RECIPES  FOR  PICKLES 

AND  CATSUPS. 

PICKLES  are  very  popular  as  a  relish,  but  it  must  be 
confessed  that  they  are  not  the  most  wholesome  diet. 
This  is  due  chiefly  to  the  fact  that  they  are  made  of 
hard,  crude,  and  often  of  unripe  fruit.  Then,  too,  the  ex- 
cess of  acid  and  the  high  seasoning  disagree  with  many 
constitutions. 

It  is  deemed  important  that  pickles  for  the  market  be 
well  greened.  To  accomplish  this  end,  copperas  and  other 
chemicals  are  employed  or  copper  kettles  are  used.  All 
this  is  poisonous,  and  should  be  shunned.  No  metal  ket- 
tles or  spoons  should  be  tolerated  in  pickling.  Glazed  jars 
are  not  desirable  either,  as  salt  and  vinegar  decompose  the 
glazing  and  set  free  the  lead  which  it  contains.  An  ordinary 
stone  jar  is  the  vessel  to  use,  or  a  porcelain-lined  kettle. 

Be  careful  to  select  perfectly  sound  fruit  or  vegetables  for 
pickling,  and  use  none  but  the  very  best  cider  vinegar. 
Good  white  wine  vinegar  does  well  for  some  sorts  of  pickles, 
but  be  ever  watchful  against  chemical  preparations  called 
vinegar,  that  destroy  instead  of  preserving  the  articles  put 
away  in  them.  In  the  selection  of  spices  there  is  so  much 
diversity  of  taste  that  no  general  directions  will  be  of  prac- 
tical value.  But  get  the  purest  articles  you  can  find. 

Pickles  must  be  kept  from  the  air,     It  is  a  good  plan  to 

284 


PICKLES  AND  CATSUPS.  226 

put  them  up  in  large  jars,  and  for  use  to  empty  the  large 
jar  at  once  into  smaller  ones,  using  these  one  at  a  time. 
Keep  them  wholly  covered  with  the  vinegar.  Water  will 
soon  cause  the  jar  of  pickles  to  spoil. 

The  same  hints  given  above  apply  to  the  making  of  cat- 
sup, which  is  really  but  a  pickle  cooked  to  a  more  advanced 
point.  It  needs  to  be  tightly  corked  and  sealed,  that  it  may 
keep  well. 

RECIPES. 

Cucumber  Pickles. — Make  a  weak  brine,  hot  or  cold ;  if  hot, 
let  the  cucumbers  stand  in  it  twenty-four  hours ;  if  cold, 
forty-eight  hours ;  rinse  and  dry  the  cucumbers  with  a  cloth, 
take  vinegar  enough  to  cover  them,  allow  one  ounce  of 
alum  to  every  gallon  of  vinegar,  put  it  in  a  brass  kettle  (or 
porcelain-lined,  if  the  greening  is  not  desired)  with  the 
cucumbers,  and  heat  slowly,  turning  the  cucumbers  from 
the  bottom  frequently ;  as  soon  as  they  are  heated  through, 
skim  them  out  into  a  crock,  let  the  vinegar  boil  up,  turn  i' 
over  the  pickles,  and  let  them  stand  at  least  twenty-fou. 
houis  ;  drain  off  the  vinegar.  Take  fresh  vinegar,  and  to 
every  gallon  allow  two  tablespoofuls  of  white  mustard-seed, 
one  of  cloves,  one  of  celery-seed,  one  of  stick  cinnamon, 
one  large,  green  pepper,  a  very  little  horse-radish,  and,  if 
you  like,  one-half  pint  of  sugar.  Divide  the  spices  equally 
into  several  small  bags  of  coarse  muslin,  scald  with  the  vine- 
gar, and  pour  over  the  pickles.  If  you  like  your  pickles 
hard,  let  the  vinegar  cool  before  pouring  over  them. 

Cucumber  Pickles,  No.  2. — To  a  gallon  of  water  add  a  quart 
of  salt,  put  in  the  cucumbers,  and  let  them  stand  over  night. 
In  the  morning,  wash  them  out  of  the  brine,  and  put  them 
carefully  into  a  stone  jar.     Boil  a  gallon  of  vinegar,  put  in 
while  cold,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cloves,  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  alum  ;  when  it  boils  hard,  skim  it  well  and  turn  ovef 
the  cucumbers.     In  a  week  they  will  be  fit  for  use. 
15 


226  EVERY  WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Pickled  Onions. — Select  small  white  onions,  put  them  ovet 
the  fire  in  cold  water  with  a  handful  of  salt.  When  the 
water  becomes  scalding  hot,  take  them  out  and  peel  off  the 
skins,  lay  them  in  a  cloth  to  dry;  then  put  them  in  a  jar. 
Boil  half  an  ounce  of  allspice  and  half  an  ounce  of  cloves 
in  a  quart  of  vinegar.  Take  out  the  spice  and  pour  the 
vinegar  over  the  onions  while  it  is  hot.  Tie  up  the  jar  when 
the  vinegar  is  cold,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry  place. 

Pickled  Onions,  No.  2. — Take  small,  white  onions  and  peel 
them ;  lay  them  in  salt  water  for  two  days ;  change  the  water 
once;  then  drain  and  put  them  in  bottles.  Take  vinegar 
enough  to  cover  them,  spice  with  whole  mixed  spices,  scald 
it,  and  pour  over  the  onions. 

Pickled  Garlic  and  Eschalots. — Garlic  and  eschalots  may  be 
pickled  in  the  same  way  as  onions. 

Pickled  Nasturtiums. — Nasturtiums  should  be  gathered 
quite  young,  and  a  portion  of  the  buds,  when  very  small, 
should  be  mixed  with  them.  Prepare  a  pickle  by  dissolv- 
ing an  ounce  and  a  half  of  salt  in  a  quart  of  pale  vinegar, 
and  throw  in  the  berries  as  they  become  fit,  from  day  to 
day.  They  are  used  instead  of  capers  for  sauce,  and  by 
some  persons  are  preferred  to  them.  When  purchased  for 
pickling,  put  them  at  once  into  a  jar  and  cover  them  well 
with  the  vinegar. 

Pickled  Watermelon. — Take  the  outer  part  of  the  rind  of 
the  melon,  pare  and  cut  in  small  pieces.  To  one  quart  of 
vinegar  add  two  pounds  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  cassia  buds. 
In  this  boil  the  rind  until  clear  and  tender. 

Pickled  Walnuts. — Walnuts  for  this  pickle  must  be  gathered 
while  a  pin  can  pierce  them  easily.  When  once  the  shell 
can  be  felt,  they  have  ceased  to  be  in  a  proper  state  for  it 
Make  sufficient  brine  to  cover  them  well,  with  six  ounces  of 
<alt  to  the  gallon  of  water;  take  off  the  scum,  which  will 


PICKLES  AND  CATSUPS.  227 

rise  to  the  surface  as  the  salt  dissolves,  throw  in  the  walnuts, 
and  stir  them  night  and  morning ;  change  the  brine  every 
three  days,  and  if  they  are  wanted  for  immediate  eating, 
leave  them  in  it  for  twelve  days;  otherwise,  drain  them 
from  it  in  nine,  spread  them  on  dishes,  and  let  them  remain 
exposed  to  the  air  until  they  become  black ;  this  will  be  in 
twelve  hours,  or  less.  Make  a  pickle  for  them  with  some- 
thing more  than  half  a  gallon  of  vinegar  to  the  hundred,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  ounces  of  black  pepper,  three  of 
bruised  ginger,  a  drachm  of  mace,  and  from  a  quarter  to 
half  an  ounce  of  cloves  (of  which  some  may  be  stuck  into 
three  or  four  small  onions),  and  four  ounces  of  mustard- 
seed.  Boil  the  whole  of  these  together  for  about  five  min- 
utes ;  have  the  walnuts  ready  in  a  stone  jar,  or  jars,  and 
pour  the  vinegar  on  them  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  fire. 
When  the  pickle  is  quite  cold,  cover  the  jar  securely  and 
store  it  in  a  dry  place.  Keep  the  walnuts  always  well 
covered  with  vinegar,  and  boil  that  which  is  added  to  them. 

Pickled  Red  Cabbage.— Slice  the  red  cabbage  into  a  colan- 
der, and  sprinkle  each  layer  with  salt ;  let  it  drain  two  days, 
then  put  it  into  a  jar  and  pour  boiling  vinegar  enough  to 
cover,  and  put  in  a  few  slices  of  red  beet-root.  Use  the 
purple  red  cabbage.  Cauliflower  cut  in  bunches,  and 
thrown  in  after  being  salted,  will  take  on  the  color  of  a 
beautiful  red. 

Pickled  Mushrooms.— Rub  the  mushroom  heads  with  flan- 
nel and  salt,  throw  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  salt  over 
them ;  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  mace ; 
as  the  liquor  comes  out,  shake  them  well,  and  keep  them 
over  a  gentle  fire  until  all  the  liquor  is  dried  into  them 
again ;  then,  put  as  much  vinegar  into  the  pan  as  will  cover 
them  ;  give  it  a  scald,  and  pour  the  whole  into  bottles. 

Pickled  Beets.— Wash  the  beet  perfectly,  not  cutting  any 
of  the  fibrous  roots,  lest  the  juice  escape;  put  in  sufficient 


228  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK:. 

water  to  boil  it,  and  when  the  skin  will  come  off  easily  it  is 
sufficiently  cooked,  and  may  be  taken  out  and  laid  upon  a 
cloth  to  cool.  Having  rubbed  off  the  peel,  cut  the  beet 
into  thick  slices,  pour  over  it  cold  vinegar  prepared  as  fol- 
lows :  Boil  a  quart  of  vinegar  with  an  ounce  of  whole  black 
pepper  and  an  equal  weight  of  dry  ginger,  and  let  it  stand 
until  quite  cold.  Keep  closely  corked. 

Pickled  Peppers.— Do  not  pick  them  till  just  as  they  begin 
to  turn  red ;  then  soak  them  for  ten  or  twelve  days  in  strong 
salt  and  water ;  take  them  from  the  brine  and  soak  them 
in  clear  water  for  a  day.  Wipe  them  dry,  and  put  them 
away  in  cold  vinegar ;  or  if  you  wish  them  milder,  remove 
the  seeds  and  scald  the  vinegar,  but  do  not  boil. 

Pickled  Bell  Peppers. — Cut  a  slit  in  the  side  of  each  pepper 
and  take  out  all  the  seeds.  Let  them  soak  in  brine  (strong 
enough  to  float  an  egg)  two  days.  Then,  washing  them  in 
cold  water,  put  them  into  a  stone  jar.  Pour  over  them  vine- 
gar boiled  with  cinnamon,  mace,  and  nutmeg.  Whenever 
they  are  wanted  to  be  served,  stuff  each  one  with  a  boiled 
tongue  cut  into  dice  and  mixed  with  a  mayonnaise  dressing. 
Or  little  mangoes  may  be  made,  stuffing  each  one  with 
pickled  nasturtiums,  grapes,  minced  onions,  red  cabbage,  or 
cucumbers,  seasoned  with  mustard-seed,  root  ginger,  and 
mace. 

Pepper-hash. — Take  four  dozen  peppers,  two  very  large 
cabbages,  one  ounce  of  light  mustard-seed.  Chop  the 
peppers  fine,  cut  the  cabbage  on  a  cabbage-knife,  mix  to- 
gether, salt  well,  and  let  it  stand  over  night,  putting  the 
dish  or  tub  so  the  juice  will  run  down ;  pour  off  in  the 
morning.  Add  one  ounce  of  cloves,  one  ounce  of  allspice  ; 
mix  all  through,  and  put  the  vinegar  on  cold. 

Flint  Pickles. — Make  a  brine  of  a  gallon  of  water  and  a 
cupful  of  salt.  This  must  be  poured  boiling  hot  on  the  cu- 
cumbers six  days  in  succession.  Rinse  them  in  cold  water; 


CATSUPS. 

put  them  in  a  kettle  with  a  teaspoonful  of  allspice  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cloves,  a  handful  of  cinnamon  sticks,  a  little 
sliced  horse-radish,  and  cider  vinegar  to  cover  them.  Let 
them  come  to  a  boil,  then  take  out  and  put  in  jars. 

East  India  Pickle. — One  hundred  cucumbers  (large  and 
small),  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  one-half  peck  of  onions, 
four  cauliflowers,  four  red  peppers  (without  the  seeds),  four 
heads  of  celery,  one  pint  of  bottled  horse-radish.  Slice  all, 
and  stand  in  salt  twenty-four  hours,  then  drain ;  pour  on 
weak  vinegar ;  stand  on  stove  until  it  comes  to  a  boil ;  then 
drain  again.  Take  one  ounce  of  ground  cinnamon,  one 
ounce  of  ground  tumeric,  one-half  pound  of  mustard,  one- 
quarter  pound  of  brown  sugar;  wet  these  with  cold  vinegar; 
add  to  this  sufficient  vinegar  to  moisten  all  the  pickles. 
Cook  all  together  ten  minutes.  Seal  in  bottles  while  hot 

French  Pickle. — Take  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  sliced ; 
six  large  onions.  Throw  on  them  a  teacupful  of  salt  over  night 
Drain  thoroughly,  then  boil  in  two  quarts  of  water  and  one 
quart  of  vinegar  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes;  drain  in  colan^ 
der ;  then  take  four  quarts  of  vinegar,  two  pounds  of  brown 
sugar,  one-half  pound  of  white  mustard-seed,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cloves,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  ginger,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  ground 
mustard,  one  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper ;  put  all  to- 
gether and  cook  fifteen  minutes. 

Piccallily. — One  peck  of  green  tomatoes  sliced,  one-half 
peck  of  onions  sliced,  one  cauliflower,  one  peck  of  small  cu- 
cumbers. Leave  in  salt  and  water  twenty-four  hours  ;  then 
put  in  a  kettle  with  a  handful  of  scraped  horse-radish,  one 
ounce  of  tumeric,  one  ounce  of  whole  cloves,  one-quarter 
pound  of  whole  pepper,  one  ounce  of  cassia  buds  or  cinna- 
mon, one  pound  of  white  mustard-seed,  one  pound  of  Eng- 
lish mustard.  Put  in  kettle  in  layers,  and  cover  with  cold 
vinegar.  Boil  fifteen  minutes,  constantly  stirring. 


230  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

Chow-chow. — One  quart  of  large  cucumbers,  one  quart  ol 
small  ones ;  two  quarts  of  onions,  four  heads  of  cauliflower, 
six  green  peppers,  one  quart  of  green  tomatoes,  one  gallon 
of  vinegar,  one  pound  of  mustard,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  two 
cupfuls  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  tumeric.  Put  all  in  salt  and 
water  one  night ;  cook  all  the  vegetables  in  brine  until 
tender  except  the  large  cucumbers.  Pour  vinegar  and 
spices  over  all. 

Sweet  Pickles. — Such  fruit  as  peaches,  plums,  cherries, 
grapes,  etc.,  are  very  palatable  when  sweet  pickkd.  The 
process  is  the  same  as  for  other  light  pickles,  except  that 
the  vinegar  is  sweetened  to  taste. 

Sweet  Tomato  Pickles. — Eight  pounds  of  peeled  tomatoes, 
four  of  powdered  sugar.  Of  cinnamon,  cloves,  and  allspice, 
each  one  ounce.  Boil  one  hour,  and  add  a  quart  of  bailing 
vinegar. 

Tomato  Catsup. — Take  one  bushel  of  tomatoes ;  boil  soft, 
and  pass  through  a  sieve.  Add  half  a  gallon  of  cider  vinegar, 
one  pint  of  salt,  two  ounces  of  cloves,  a  quarter  pound  of 
allspice,  a  half  ounce  of  cayenne  pepper.  Boil  until 
reduced  to  half  the  quantity.  When  cool,  bottle  and  cork 
tightly. 

Tomato  Catsup,  No.  2.— Take  one  peck  of  ripe  tomatoes,  cut 
up,  boil  tender,  and  strain  through  a  wire  sieve ;  add  one 
large  tablespoonful  of  ground  cloves,  one  large  tablespoon- 
ful  of  allspice,  one  large  tablespoonful  of  cinnamon,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  one-quarter  pound  of  salt,  one- 
quarter  pound  of  mustard,  one  pint  of  vinegar.  Boil  gently 
three  hours.  Bottle  and  seal  while  warm. 

Green  Tomato  Catsup. — One  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  one 
dozen  large  onions,  one-half  pint  of  salt ;  slice  the  tomatoes 
and  onions.  To  a  layer  of  these  add  a  layer  of  salt ;  let 
»tand  twenty-four  hours,  then  drain.  Add  one-quarter  pound 


PICKLES  AND  CATSUPS.  231 

of  mustard-seed,  three  dessertspoonfuls  of  sweet  oil,  one 
ounce  of  allspice,  one  ounce  of  cloves,  one  ounce  of  ground 
mustard,  one  ounce  of  ground  ginger,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
black  pepper,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  celery-seed,  one-quarter 
pound  of  brown  sugar.  Put  all  into  a  preserving-pan,  cover 
with  vinegar,  and  boil  two  hours. 

CMli  Sauce. — Thirty  tomatoes,  three  large  onions,  three 
peppers,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  allspice,  cloves,  and  cin- 
namon, two  nutmegs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  one  quart  of 
vinegar,  one  cupful  of  sugar.  Chop  the  onions  and  pep- 
pers very  fine.  Cook  the  tomatoes  somewhat  first.  Mix 
thoroughly. 

Tomato  Soy. — One-half  bushel  of  green  tomatoes,  three 
onions,  three  green  peppers,  one-quarter  pound  of  mustard- 
seed,  three  cupfuls  of  sugar,  three  cabbages.  Chop  the 
tomatoes  and  onions  together  fine;  add  to  one  gallon  of  the 
tomatoes  one  cupful  of  salt;  let  stand  twenty-four  hours, 
drain,  and  add  the  peppers  (chopped  fine),  mustard-seed, 
sugar,  and  other  spices  to  taste.  Moisten  all  with  vinegar 
and  cook  until  tender.  Before  bottling,  add  the  cabbages 
(chopped),  and  one  cupful  of  chopped  horse-radish. 

Grape  Catsup. — Take  five  pints  of  grapes;  simmer  until 
soft,  then  put  through  a  colander ;  add  to  them  two  pints  of 
brown  sugar,  one  pint  of  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  all- 
spice, two  tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cloves,  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  mace,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  red  pepper.  Boil 
till  thick ;  then  bottle  and  seal  tightly. 

Walnut  Catsup. — The  vinegar  in  which  walnuts  have  been 
pickled,  when  they  have  remained  in  it  a  year,  will  generally 
answer  all  the  purposes  for  which  this  catsup  is  required, 
particularly  if  it  be  drained  from  them  and  boiled  for  a  few 
minutes,  with  a  little  additional  spice  and  a  few  eschalots; 
but  where  the  vinegar  is  objected  to,  it  may  be  made  by 


WOMAtt 

boiling  either  the  expressed  juice  of  young  walnuts  for  an 
hour,  with  six  ounces  of  fine  anchovies,  four  ounces  of 
eschalots,  half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper,  a  quarter  ounce  of 
cloves,  and  a  drachm  of  mace  to  every  quart. 

Walnut  Catsup,  No.  2. — Pound  in  a  mortar  a  hundred  young 
walnuts,  strewing  among  them  as  they  are  done  half  a 
pound  of  salt ;  then  pour  to  them  a  quart  of  strong  vinegar 
and  let  them  stand  until  they  have  become  quite  black, 
keeping  them  stirred  three  or  four  times  a  day ;  next  add  a 
quart  of  strong,  old  beer,  and  boil  the  whole  together  for  ten 
minutes  ;  strain  it,  and  let  it  remain  until  the  next  day ;  then 
pour  it  off  clear  from  the  sediment,  add  to  it  one  large  head 
of  garlic  bruised,  half  an  ounce  of  nutmegs  bruised,  the  same 
quantity  of  cloves  and  black  pepper,  and  two  drachms  of 
mace ;  boil  these  together  for  half  an  hour,  and  the  follow- 
ing day  bottle  and  cork  the  catsup  well. 

A  bottle  of  port  wine  may  be  added  before  bottling,  if  de- 
sired, and  a  large  bunch  of  sweet  herbs. 

Oyster  Catsup. — Take  fine,  large  fresh  oysters,  opened  care- 
fully, and  wash  them  in  their  own  liquor.  To  take  any  par- 
ticle of  shell  that  may  remain,  strain  the  liquor  after.  Pound 
the  oysters  in  a  mortar,  add  the  liquor,  and  to  every  pint 
put  a  pint  of  sherry ;  boil  it  up  and  skim ;  then  add  two 
anchovies,  pounded,  an  ounce  of  common  salt,  two  drachms 
of  pounded  mace,  and  one  of  cayenne.  Let  it  boil  up,  then 
skim,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  Bottle  when  cold  and 
seal  it.  What  remains  in  the  sieve  will  do  for  oyster  sauce. 


),  No.  2. — One  quart  oysters,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  salt,  one  tablespoonful  cayenne  pepper,  one  tablespoonful 
mace,  one  teacupful  cider  vinegar,  one  teacupful  sherry. 
Chop  the  oysters,  and  boil  in  their  own  liquor  with  the  tea^ 
cupful  of  vinegar,  skimming  the  skum  as  it  rises.  Boil  three 
minutes,  strain  through  a  hair  cloth,  return  the  liquor  to  the 


PICKLES  AND  CATSUPS.  233 

fire;   add  the  wine,  pepper,  salt,  and  mace.     Boil  fifteen 
minutes,  and  when  cold,  bottle  for  use, 

Mushroom  Catsup  with  Spice. — Take  full-grown  and  fresh- 
gathered  mushrooms  ;  put  a  layer  of  these  at  the  bottom  of 
a  deep  earthen  pan  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt ;  then  another 
layer  of  mushrooms  ;  sprinkle  more  salt  on  them,  and  so  on 
alternately.  Let  them  stand  for  two  or  three  hours,  by 
which  time  the  salt  will  have  penetrated  the  mushrooms  and 
have  made  them  easy  to  break  ;  then  pound  them  in  a  mor- 
tar, or  break  them  well  with  your  hands ;  let  them  remain 
in  this  state  for  two  days,  not  more,  washing  them  well  once 
or  twice  a  day ;  then  pour  them  into  a  stone  jar,  and  to  each 
quart  add  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  whole  black  pepper  and 
half  an  ounce  of  allspice  ;  stop  the  jar  very  close,  and  set  it 
in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  keep  it  boiling  for  two 
hours  at  least.  Take  out  the  jar  and  pour  the  juice  clear 
from  the  settlings  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  clean  stewpan, 
and  boil  it  very  gently  on  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour. 

Mushroom  Catsup  without  Spice.— Sprinkle  a  little  salt  over 
your  mushrooms.  Three  hours  after,  mash  them ;  next  day, 
strain  off  the  liquor  and  boil  it  till  it  is  reduced  to  half.  It 
will  not  keep  long,  but  an  artificial  mushroom  bed  will 
supply  this,  the  very  best  mushroom  catsup,  all  the  year 
round. 


XVIII.— BEVERAGES. 


HINTS  ON  HOME  BEVERAGES ;   USE   GOOD  MATERIALS ;   WHAT  TEA 

is;    KINDS  OF  TEA;    ITS  VALUE  AS  A  BEVERAGE;    KINDS  OF 

COFFEE ;  ADULTERATIONS  OF  COFFEE ;  HOW  TO  GET  IT  PURE  ; 

HOW  TO  RETAIN  ITS  FLAVOR;  THE  COFFEEPOT;  CHOCOLATE 
AND  ITS  PREPARATION;  OTHER  BEVERAGES.  THIRTY-THREE 
RECIPES  FOR  BEVERAGES. 


ASIDE  from  the  spirituous  and  malt  liquors,  the  composi- 
tion of  which  is  not  attempted  in  the  household,  there 
is  a  long  line  of  beverages  concerning  which  some 
hints  are  of  value.     In  general,  it  may  be  said,  employ  good 
materials,  and  do  not  stint  them  in  quantity,  if  you  want 
good  results.      What  is  worth  doing  at  all  in  culinary  lines 
is  worth  doing  well,  and  beverages,  being  in  the  line  of  lux- 
uries, should  be  good,  if  not  positively  luxuriant. 

Tea  is  the  leaf  of  the  tea-tree  cured  in  various  ways,  and 
so  appearing  in  the  various  forms  known  to  commerce. 
Black  teas  are  subjected  to  the  action  of  heat  far  beyond  the 
green  teas.  The  green  teas  go  through  a  greening  process 
also,  the  healthfullness  of  which  may  well  be  questioned. 

Of  the  black  teas,  the  Pekoe  is  the  earliest  gathered  and 
mildest,  while  the  Souchong,  the  Congou,  and  the  Bohea 
are  respectively  older  in  growth  and  stronger  in  flavor. 

Of  the  green  teas,  the  Young  Hyson  is  from  the  tenderest 
and  mildest  leaf,  the  Gunpowder,  Hyson,  and  Twankay 
being  of  older  growth  respectively  and  of  stronger  flavor. 
The  treatment  of  all  these  leaves,  as  well  as  their  age,  ara 
important  factors  in  their  final  quality. 

234 


BEVERAGES. 

The  nutritive  Value  of  tea  is  not  appreciable,  but  as  an  ex- 
citant of  respiratory  action  and  a  promoter  of  digestion  it  is 
very  valuable.  Tea  should  be  kept  closely  covered  in  air- 
tight canisters,  in  order  that  the  flavor  may  be  retained. 

Coffee  will  grow  in  any  climate  where  the  temperature 
does  not  fall  below  fifty-five  degrees.  The  best  brands  are 
the  Mocha  and  the  Java,  but  South  America  supplies  the 
largest  amount  used  in  this  country,  which  is  sold  under  the 
general  name  of  Rio.  Coffee  is  often  wretchedly  adulterated, 
especially  when  sold  in  the  roasted  and  ground  form.  It  is 
safer  to  buy  it  green  and  to  roast  and  grind  it  at  home. 

Roasted  coffee  should  be  kept  in  tight  canisters  or  boxes, 
and  it  should  be  ground  only  as  it  is  wanted  for  use.  The 
coffeepot  must  be  scalded  clean  and  occasionally  with  soda, 
so  that  the  inside  may  be  absolutely  pure. 

Chocolate  should  never  be  made  except  it  is  intended  to 
be  used  immediately.  By  allowing  it  to  become  cold  or 
by  boiling  it  again,  the  flavor  is  injured,  the  oily  particles  of 
the  cocoa  are  separated  and  rise  to  the  surface  also,  and  they 
will  never  blend  pleasantly  again. 

Other  beverages  are  in  occasional  use,  but  those  already 
mentioned  are  the  standards  in  this  land. 


RECIPES. 

. — People  must  consult  their  own  tastes  as  to  the  kind 
of  tea.  A  mixed  tea  is  generally  preferred,  combining  the 
flavors  of  both  green  and  black.  Allow  one  teaspoonful 
for  each  person.  Use  boiling  water,  but  do  not  boil  the  tea, 
and  use  while  fresh.  Tea  is  best  made  in  an  earthen  teaoot 
It  should  never  be  made  in  tin. 

Iced  Tea. — Iced  tea  should  be  made  several  hours  before  it 
is  needed  and  then  set  upon  ice.  When  ready  to  use  it, 
sweeten  and  drink  without  milk  or  cream.  Use  cracked  ice 


236  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

to  put  into  the  glass.    The  tea  must  be  extra  strong,  and  da 
not  stint  the  ice. 

Tea  a  la  Russe. — Slice  fresh,  juicy  lemons;  pare  them 
carefully,  lay  a  piece  in  the  bottom  of  each  cup ;  sprinkle 
with  white  sugar  and  pour  the  tea,  very  hot  and  strong, 
over  them. 

Iced  Tea  a  la  Russe. — To  each  goblet  of  cold  tea  (without 
cream)  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Fill  up  with 
pounded  ice  and  sweeten  well.  A  glass  of  champagne 
added  to  this  makes  what  is  called  Russian  punch. 

Coffee. — To  make  choicest  coffee,  take  equal  quantities  of 
Java  and  Mocha ;  grind  finely  together,  allowing  about  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  ground  coffee  to  each  person ;  add  an  egg 
with  its  shell  and  a  very  little  cold  water ;  stir  this  thor- 
oughly together  and  turn  on  boiling  water.  Set  the  pot  on 
the  back  of  the  range  for  five  minutes ;  then  draw  forward 
and  allow  it  to  boil  up  just  an  instant;  clear  the  spout  by 
pouring  from  it  and  returning  it  in  the  top  of  the  pot.  Then 
serve  at  once  with  plenty  of  cream  and  sugar. 

Iced  Coffee. — Make  the  coffee  extra  strong.  When  it  is 
cold,  mix  with  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  cream  ;  sweeten  to 
taste,  and  freeze  as  in  ice-cream,  or  serve  with  abundance  of 
broken  ice. 

Cafe  Noir. — This  is  the  strongest  preparation  of  coffee,  its 
very  essence,  indeed.  It  is  used  after  dessert  at  course  din- 
ners. Make  the  coffee  strong  and  clear  as  possible,  but  use 
only  one-third  the  ordinary  quantity  of  water.  Serve  with 
lump  sugar,  with  which  it  should  be  highly  sweetened,  and 
use  very  small  cups.  Cream  may  be  added  if  desired. 

Meringued  Coffee. — For  six  cupfuls  of  coffee  take  about 
one  cupful  of  sweet  cream,  whipped  light,  with  a  little  sugar. 
Put  into  each  cup  the  desired  amount  of  sugar  and  about 
a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  milk.  Pour  the  coffee  over  these. 


BEVERAGES.  237 

and  lay  upon  the  surface  of  the  hot  liquid  a  large  spoonful 
of  the  frothed  cream.  Give  a  gentle  stir  to  each  cup  before 
sending  it  from  the  tray. 

Frothed  Cafe  an  Lait — Pour  into  the  table  urn  one  quart 
of  strong,  clear  coffee,  strained  through  muslin,  and  one 
quart  of  boiling  milk,  alternating  them,  and  stirring  gently. 
Cover  and  wrap  a  thick  cloth  about  the  urn  for  five  minutes 
before  it  goes  to  table.  Have  ready  in  a  cream-pitcher  the 
whites  of  three  eggs,  beaten  stiff,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
powdered  sugar,  whipped  with  them.  Put  a  large  spoonful 
of  this  froth  upon  each  cupful  of  coffee  as  you  pour  it  out, 
heaping  it  slightly  in  the  centre. 

Chocolate. — Scrape  fine  one  square  of  a  cake,  which  is  one 
ounce ;  add  to  it  an  equal  weight  of  sugar  ;  put  these  into 
a  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  water,  each  one-half,  and  stir  well 
for  two  or  three  minutes  until  the  sugar  and  chocolate  are 
well  dissolved.  This  preparation  may  be  improved  by 
adding  a  well-beaten  egg  or  two  and  stirring  briskly  through 
the  mixture  with  a  Dover  egg-beater.  A  teaspoonful  ol 
vanilla  extract  added  just  before  sending  to  table  is  a  valua- 
ble addition. 

;_  Frothed  Chocolate. — One  cupful  of  boiling  water;  three 
pints  of  fresh  milk ;  three  tablespoonfuls  of  Baker's  ehoco- 
late,  grated ;  five  eggs,  the  whites  only,  beaten  light,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  for  froth.  Sweeten  the 
chocolate  to  taste  ;  heat  the  milk  to  scalding ;  wet  up  the 
chocolate  with  the  boiling  water,  and  when  the  milk  is  hot, 
stir  this  into  it;  simmer  gently  ten  minutes,  stirring  fre- 
quently ;  boil  up  briskly  once ;  take  from  the  fire  ;  sweeten 
to  taste,  taking  care  not  to  make  it  too  sweet,  and  stir  in  the 
whites  of  two  eggs,  whipped  stiff,  without  sugar ;  pour  into 
the  chocolate  pot  or  pitcher,  which  should  be  well  heated. 
Have  ready  in  a  cream-pitcher  the  remaining 


238  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

whipped  up  with  the  powdered  sugar ;  cover  the  surface  of 
each  cup  with  the  sweetened  meringue  before  distributing  to 
the  guests. 

Choca. — This  beverage,  a  favorite  with  many,  is  made  by 
mixing  coffee  and  chocolate,  as  prepared  for  the  table,  in 
equal  quantities,  and  serving  hot  for  breakfast. 

Broma. — Dissolve  a  large  tablespoonful  of  Baker's  broma 
in  as  much  warm  water ;  then  pour  upon  it  a  pint  of  boiling 
milk  and  water,  in  equal  proportions,  and  boil  it  two  min- 
utes longer,  stirring  it  frequently  ;  add  sugar  at  pleasure. 

Breakfast  Cocoa. — Into  a  breakfast  cup  put  a  teaspoonful  of 
the  powder,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water,  and  mix 
thoroughly.  Then  add  equal  parts  of  boiling  water  and 
boiled  milk,  and  sugar  to  the  taste.  Boiling  two  or  three 
minutes  will  improve  it. 

Cocoa  Shells. — Take  a  small  quantity  of  cocoa  shells  (say 
two  ounces),  pour  upon  them  three  pints  of  boiling  water, 
boil  rapidly  thirty  or  forty  minutes;  allow  it  to  settle 
or  strain,  and  add  cream  or  boiling  milk  and  sugar  at 
pleasure. 

Lemonade. — Squeeze  the  juice  of  lemons,  and  add  sugar 
and  ice-water  to  taste. 

Concentrated  Lemonade. — Make  a  rich  sirup  of  two  and  a 
half  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of  cold  water  and  boil 
gradually.  Pour  it  hot  on  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  citric 
acid.  Bottle  tight  while  hot.  One  tablespoonful  will  make 
a  tumblerful  of  lemonade. 

Portable  Lemonade. — Mix  a  quarter  pound  of  white  sugar 
with  the  grated  rind  of  a  large,  juicy  lemon.  Pour  upon 
this  the  strained  juice  of  the  lemon  and  pack  in  a  jar.  One 
tablespoonful  will  suffice  for  a  glass  of  water. 

Egg  Nog. — To  the  yelks  of  six  eggs,  add  six  tablespoon- 
tils  of  powdered  sugar,  one  quart  of  new  milk,  a  half  pint 


BEVERAGES.  239 

of  French  brandy,  and  one  pint  of  Madeira  wine.  Beat  the 
whites  up  separately,  and  stir  them  through  the  mixture  just 
before  pouring  into  glasses  for  use. 

Roman  Punch. — Beat  stiff  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  with  a 
half  pound  of  powdered  sugar.  Add  three  teacupfuls  of 
strong,  sweet  lemonade,  one  wineglassful  each  of  rum  and 
champagne,  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges.  Ice  abundantly, 
or  freeze. 

Milk  Punch. — Boil  one  quart  of  milk,  warm  from  the  cow. 
Beat  up  the  yelks  of  four  eggs  and  four  tablespoonfuls  oi 
powdered  sugar  together;  add  two  glasses  of  the  best 
sherry  wine  ;  pour  into  a  pitcher,  and  mix  with  it  the  boil- 
ing milk,  stirring  all  the  time.  Pour  from  one  vessel  to 
another  six  times ;  add  cinnamon  and  nutmeg  to  taste,  and 
serve  as  soon  as  it  can  be  swallowed  without  scalding  the 
throat. 

Currant  and  Raspberry  Shrub.— Pound  four  quarts  of  ripe 
currants  and  three  quarts  of  red  raspberries  in  a  stone  jar  or 
wide-mouthed  crock  with  a  wooden  beetle.  Squeeze  out 
every  drop  of  the  juice;  put  this  into  a  porcelain,  enamel, 
or  very  clean  bell-metal  kettle,  and  boil  hard  ten  minutes. 
Put  in  four  pounds  of  loaf  sugar  at  the  end  of  the  ten  min- 
utes, and  boil  up  once  to  throw  the  scum  to  the  top ;  skim 
and  let  it  get  perfectly  cold ;  then  skim  off  all  remaining 
impurities ;  add  one  quart  of  the  best  brandy  and  shake 
hard  for  five  minutes.  Bottle,  seal  the  corks,  and  lay  the 
bottles  on  their  sides  in  dry  sawdust. 

Currant  Wine. — One  quart  of  currant  juice,  three  pounds 
of  brown  sugar,  and  one  gallon  of  water ;  dissolve  the  sugar 
in  the  water,  then  add  the  juice ;  when  it  ferments,  add  a 
little  fresh  water  each  day  till  it  is  done  fermenting,  which 
will  be  in  from  a  month  and  a  half  to  two  months ;  turn  it 
off,  scald  the  keg,  put  it  in  again,  and  cork  tightly. 


240  EVERY    WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

Raspberry  Wine.— Bruise  the  raspberries  with  the  back  of 
a  spoon ;  strain  them  through  a  flannel  bag ;  add  one  pound 
of  loaf  sugar  to  one  quart  of  juice ;  stir  well  and  cover 
closely,  letting  it  stand  for  three  days,  stirring  well  each 
day.  Pour  off  the  clear  juice  and  add  one  quart  of  juice 
to  two  quarts  of  sherry  wine;  bottle  it  and  use  in  two 
weeks. 

Raspberry  Brandy. — Using  brandy  instead  of  wine,  as 
above,  will  produce  a  very  valuable  medicinal  drink,  Rasp- 
berry Brandy. 

Raspberry  Vinegar. — Take  three  pints  of  red  berries ;  pour 
over  them  one  pint  of  cider  vinegar  and  let  stand  twenty- 
four  hours.  Strain,  and  to  one  pint  of  juice  add  one 
pound  of  sugar ;  boil  one-half  hour,  and  when  cold,  bottle 
for  use. 

Cherry  Brandy. — Use  either  morello  cherries  or  small  black 
cherries ;  pick  them  from  the  stalks ;  fill  the  bottles  nearly 
up  to  the  necks,  then  fill  up  with  brandy  (some  use  whisky, 
gin,  or  spirit  distilled  from  the  lees  of  wine).  In  three 
weeks  or  a  month  strain  off  the  spirit ;  to  each  quart  add 
one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  clarified,  and  flavor  with  tincture 
of  cinnamon  or  cloves. 

Sherbet. — In  a  quart  of  water  boil  six  or  eight  sticks  of 
rhubarb  ten  minutes ;  strain  the  boiling  liquor  on  the  thin 
shaved  rind  of  a  lemon.  Two  ounces  of  clarified  sugar, 
with  a  wineglassful  of  brandy,  stir  to  the  above,  and  let  it 
stand  five  or  six  hours  before  using. 

Ginger  Beer. — Two  ounces  of  ginger  to  a  pint  of  molasses ; 
add  a  gallon  of  warm  water;  stir  it  well,  and  add  half  a  pint 
of  lively  yeast.  If  you  wish  it  sweeter  or  hotter,  add  gin- 
ger or  molasses  before  putting  in  the  yeast,  to  suit  your 
taste. 


£  EVE  RAGES.  34 | 

Spruce  Beer.— To  three  gallons  of  boiling  water,  add  two 
pounds  of  molasses  and  two  ounces  of  essence  of  spruce. 
Let  the  mixture  cool,  and  when  lukewarm,  add  a  scant  gill 
of  yeast  and  set  aside  to  ferment.  While  the  fermentation 
goes  on,  skim  frequently.  When  it  becomes  inactive,  put  in 
stone  bottles  and  tie  the  corks  down.  White  sugar  may  be 
used  instead  of  molasses,  and  will  give  a  better  color. 

Quick  Beer. — To  fourteen  quarts  of  water  add  one  quart  of 
molasses,  one  quart  of  hop  yeast,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
ginger.  Mix  well ;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  ;  bottle  im- 
mediately. Ready  for  use  in  twenty-four  hours. 

Imperial — Mix  in  a  jug  one-half  ounce  of  cream  tartar 
and  one  quart  of  boiling  water ;  flavor  with  lemon  peel  or 
essence  of  lemon,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  This  is  a  refreshing 
and  pleasantly  stimulating  summer  drink. 

Mead, — Mix  six  gallons  of  water  with  six  quarts  of 
strained  honey ;  add  the  yellow  rind  of  two  large  lemons, 
pared  thin,  and  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth.  Mix  well  and  boil  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  skim- 
ming thoroughly.  Pour  into  a  tub,  add  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  good  yeast,  and  leave  it  ferment.  When  it  is  well  worked> 
pour  into  a  barrel  with  some  lemon  peel,  and  let  it  stand  six 
months.  Then  bottle  and  tie  down  the  corks.  It  is  ready 
for  immediate  use,  or  will  keep  for  months  in  a  cool  place. 


XIX.— CANDIES. 

CARE  NEEDED  TO  COOK  CANDY;  WHEN  COOKED  ENOUGH;  FLAVOlb 
ING,  COOLING,  AND  PULLING.    TWENTY-ONE  RECIPES  FOR  CANDY. 

THE  great  danger  in  candy-making  is  that  of  burning  the 
sugar.     To  properly  cook  the  candy  requires  a  heat  of 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  degrees.      Less  than  that 
heat  will  leave  the  candy  soft  and  sticky.  A  very  little  more 
than  two  hundred  and  sixty  degrees  will  burn  it.     Here, 
then,  is  the  need  of  care  in  candy-making. 

In  the  cooking,  allow  the  heat  to  reach  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  only.  Have  a  quick  fire  that  the  work  may  be  done  in 
the  shortest  possible  time.  When  cooked  for  about  fifteen 
minutes,  test  a  spoonful  of  the  mass  upon  a  cold  plate.  If  it 
form  a  viscid,  tenacious  mass,  which  forms  a  long,  adherent 
thread  when  drawn  out,  then  it  is  nearly  done,  and  it  needs 
special  care  lest  it  burn  before  the  work  be  completed.  Test 
frequently  now,  dropping  a  little  in  cold  water.  When  the 
hardened  portion  is  crisp  as  a  pipestem,  the  cooking  has 
gone  far  enough.  Then  comes  the  flavoring  and  coloring. 

When  the  mass  has  cooled  on  a  stone  or  buttered  plate, 
so  that  it  can  be  handled,  it  is  ready  for  pulling,  rolling  into 
sticks,  shaping  into  forms,  etc.  The  pulling  process  is 
simply  a  mechanical  means  of  whitening  the  candy.  It  is 
literally  a  pulling,  the  candy  being  thrown  on  a  hook  and 
pulled  out  from  it,  then  being  thrown  on  it  again  and  again 
pulled,  and  so  on,  as  may  be  desired,  the  longer  pulling  giv- 
ing the  whiter  candy. 

For  home-made  candies  use  pure  materials  and  good 
fruit.  Enough  of  earths  and  starch  and  decayed  fruits  are 
bought  in  the  cheap  candies  of  the  stores. 

243 


CANDIES.  243 

RECIPES. 

Molasses  Candy. — Three  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar,  one-half 
cupful  of  molasses,  one  cupful  of  water,  one-half  teaspoonful 
of  cream  tartar,  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Bring  to  aboil, 
and  when  crisp  by  testing  in  cold  water,  flavor ;  pour  out  on 
a.  buttered  plate,  and  pull  to  whiteness  if  desired. 

Butter  Scotch. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  water,  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg.  Boil  without 
stirring,  until  it  hardens  on  a  spoon.  Pour  out  on  buttered 
plates  to  cool. 

Ice-cream  Candy. — Take  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar, 
half  a  cupful  of  water,  and  add  one-quarter  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream  tartar  dissolved  in  a  teaspoonful  of  boiling  water. 
Put  it  in  a  porcelain  kettle,  and  boil  ten  minutes  without 
stirring  it.  Drop  a  few  drops  into  a  saucer  of  cold  water  or 
on  snow.  If  it  become  brittle,  it  is  done ;  if  not,  boil  till  it  is. 
Add  a  piece  of  butter  half  as  large  as  an  egg  while  it  is  on 
the  fire,  and  stir  it  in.  Pour  into  a  buttered  tin,  and  set  on 
ice  or  snow  to  cool  enough  to  pull  it  white.  Flavor  with 
vanilla  just  before  it  is  cool  enough  to  pull.  Work  into 
strands  and  cut  into  sticks. 

Cream  Candy. — One  pound  of  white  sugar,  three  table, 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  extract,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cream  tartar.  Add  a  little  water  to  moisten 
the  sugar,  and  boil  until  brittle.  Put  in  the  extract,  then 
turn  quickly  out  on  buttered  plates.  When  cool,  pull  until 
white,  and  cut  in  squares. 

Cocoanut  Candy. — Grate  very  fine  a  sound  cocoanut,  spread 
it  on  a  dish,  and  let  it  dry  naturally  for  three  days,  as  it  will 
not  bear  the  heat  of  an  oven,  and  is  too  oily  for  use  when 
freshly  broken.  Four  ounces  will  be  sufficient  for  a  pound 
of  sugar  for  most  tastes,  but  more  can  be  used  at  pleasure. 
To  one  pound  of  sugar,  take  one-half  pint  of  water,  a  very 


244  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK. 

little  white  of  egg,  and  then  pour  over  the  sugar ;  let  il 
stand  for  a  short  time,  then  place  over  a  very  clear  fire,  and 
let  it  boil  for  a  few  minutes ;  then  set  it  one  side  until  the 
scum  is  subsided,  clear  it  off,  and  boil  the  sugar  until  very 
thick ;  then  strew  in  the  nut,  stir  and  mix  it  well,  and  do  not 
quit  for  an  instant  until  it  is  finished.  The  pan  should  not 
be  placed  on  the  fire,  but  over  it,  as  the  nut  is  liable  to  burn 
with  too  fierce  a  heat. 

Almond  Candy. — Proceed  in  the  same  way  as  for  cocoanut 
candy.  Let  the  almonds  be  blanched  and  perfectly  dry,  and 
do  not  throw  them  into  the  sugar  until  they  approach  the 
candying  point. 

Candied  Nuts  and  Fraits. — Three  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cup- 
ful of  water ;  boil  until  it  hardens  when  dropped  in  water, 
then  flavor  with  lemon.  It  must  not  boil  after  the  lemon  is 
put  in.  Put  a  nut  on  the  end  of  a  fine  knitting  needle,  take 
out,  and  turn  on  the  needle  until  it  is  cool.  If  the  candy 
gets  cold,  set  on  the  stove  for  a  few  minutes.  Malaga 
grapes,  and  oranges  quartered,  may  be  candied  in  the  same 
way. 

Chocolate  Caramels. — Two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
warm  water,  one-half  cupful  of  grated  chocolate,  three- 
fourths  of  a  cupful  of  butter.  Let  it  boil  without  stirring 
until  it  snaps  in  water. 

Chocolate  Caramels,  No.  2. — One  cupful  of  rich,  sweet  cream ; 
one  cupful  of  brown  sugar ;  one  cupful  of  white  sugar;  seven 
tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla  chocolate ;  one  tablespoonful  of 
corn-starch,  stirred  in  the  cream  ;  one  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter ;  vanilla  flavoring ;  soda,  the  size  of  a  pea,  stirred  into 
cream.  Boil  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  chocolate  and 
vanilla  extract,  half  an  hour,  stirring  to  prevent  burning. 
Reserve  half  of  the  cream,  and  wet  up  the  chocolate  in  it, 
adding  a  very  little  water  if  necessary.  Draw  the  saucepan 
to  the  side  of  the  range,  and  stir  this  in  well ;  put  back  on 


CAX&MS.  245 

the  fire  and  boil  ten  minutes  longer,  quite  fast,  stirring  con- 
stantly. When  it  makes  a  hard,  glossy  coat  on  the  spoon, 
it  is  done.  Add  the  vanilla  after  taking  it  from  the  range. 
Turn  into  shallow  dishes,  well  buttered.  When  cold 
enough  to  retain  the  impression  of  the  knife,  cut  into 
squares. 

Lemon  Taffy. — Two  cupfuls  of  white  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  one-quarter  cupful  of  vinegar,  one-half  cupful 
of  butter ;  flavor  with  lemon ;  pour  in  buttered  plates  to  cool. 

Butter  Taffy.— One  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses,  and  a  piece  of  buttef 
the  size  of  an  egg.  When  done,  add  a  little  soda. 

Cream  Chocolates. — For  the  creams,  boil  two  cupfuls  of 
white  sugar  and  one-half  cupful  of  milk  for  five  minutes ; 
add  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  then  beat  until  stiff  enough 
to  handle  and  make  into  drops. 

For  the  chocolate,  take  three-quarters  of  a  half-pound  cake 
of  Baker's  chocolate,  grate  and  steam  over  the  teakettle. 
Drop  the  creams  when  hard,  one  at  a  time,  into  the  hot 
chocolate,  using  two  forks  to  take  them  out  quickly ;  set 
the  drop  on  one  fork  on  the  bottom,  using  the  other  fork  to 
scrape  the  chocolate  off  the  cream ;  gently  slip  the  drop 
upon  a  buttered  dish.  If,  when  cool,  the  drops  stick  to  the 
dish,  hold  it  over  the  steam  of  the  teakettle  for  an  instant. 

Chocolate  Creams. — Inside :  Two  cupfuls  of  sugar ;  one  cup- 
ful of  water ;  one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  arrow-root ; 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Mix  the  ingredients,  except  the 
vanilla ;  let  them  boil  from  five  to  eight  minutes  ;  stir  all  the 
time.  After  this  is  taken  from  the  fire,  stir  until  it  comes  to 
a  cream.  When  it  is  nearly  smooth,  add  the  vanilla  and 
make  the  cream  into  balls. 

Outside :  Melt  a  half  pound  of  Baker's  chocolate,  but  do 
not  add  water  to  it.  Roll  the  cream  balls  into  the  chocolate 
while  it  is  warm. 


246  EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOfc 

Cream  Walnuts. — Two  cupfuls  sugar,  two-thirds  cupful 
water.  Boil  without  stirring  until  it  will  spin  a  thread; 
flavor  with  vanilla.  Set  off  into  a  dish  with  a  little  cold 
water  in  it ;  stir  briskly  until  white  and  creamy.  Have  the 
walnuts  shelled ;  make  the  cream  into  small,  round  cakes 
with  your  fingers ;  press  half  a  walnut  on  either  side,  and 
drop  into  sifted  granulated  sugar. 

Cream  Dates. — For  cream  dates,  take  fresh  California  dates, 
remove  the  stones,  and  fill  the  centre  of  dates  with  the  same 
cream  as  used  in  cream  walnuts.  Drop  into  sugar. 

Peanut  Candy. — Boil  one  scant  pint  of  molasses  until  it 
hardens  in  cold  water.  Stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla, 
then  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  dry.  Lastly,  the  shelled  pea- 
nuts, taken  from  four  quarts  measured  before  shelling. 
Turn  out  into  shallow  pans  well  buttered,  and  press  it  down 
smooth  with  a  wooden  spoon. 

Philadelphia  Groundnut  Cakes. — Boil  two  pounds  of  light 
brown  sugar  in  a  preserving  kettle,  with  enough  water  to 
wet  it  thoroughly  and  form  a  sirup.  Have  ready  a  quarter 
of  a  peck  of  groundnuts  (peanuts).  When  the  sugar  begins 
to  boil,  throw  in  the  white  of  an  egg  to  clear  it.  Skim  and 
try  by  dropping  a  little  into  cold  water  to  see  if  brittle  or 
done.  When  it  is  brittle,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in 
the  nuts.  Drop  on  wet  plates,  free  from  grease.  The  white 
of  egg  may  be  omitted. 

Gum  Drops. — Dissolve  one  pound  of  gum  arabic  in  one  and 
a  half  pints  of  water;  strain  and  add  one  pound  of  refined 
sugar ;  beat  until  the  sugar  is  entirely  dissolved.  Flavor  to 
taste,  and  add  coloring  if  desired.  Then  evaporate  with  a 
slow  heat  until  the  mass  is  thick  as  honey.  Have  a  shallow 
box,  or  dish  of  fine  starch ;  in  this  make  a  series  of  dents 
with  a  rounded  stick,  the  size  desired  for  the  gum  drops. 
Into  cacn  of  these  indentations  drop  from  a  spout,  or  a 


CANDIES.  247 

spoon,  just  enough  of  the  thickened  mass  to  fill  the  cavity, 
then  set  away  in  a  warm  place  till  the  drops  become  suffi- 
ciently set  to  allow  handling.  This  may  require  several 
days. 

Jujube  Paste. — Dissolve  gum  arabic,  and  add  sugar  as  for 
gum  drops.  Evaporate  till  very  thick,  and  while  still  warm 
flavor  and  pour  out  into  shallow  tin  pans  to  cool. 

Fig  Paste. — Chop  up  one  pound  of  figs,  and  boil  in  a  pint 
of  water  till  reduced  to  a  soft  pulp.  Strain  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  add  three  pounds  of  sugar.  Evaporate  over  boil- 
ing water  till  the  paste  becomes  stiff,  then  pour  it  into  a 
mold  of  wooden  strips  tied  together.  When  cool,  cut  into 
squares ;  sugar  each  well,  and  put  away  for  use.  Flavors 
may  be  added  to  taste,  or  fresh  fruits  may  be  mingled  with 
the  paste. 

Peppermint  Drops. — Mix  granulated  sugar  with  enough 
water  to  form  a  paste,  and  put  it  to  boil  in  a  saucepan  hav- 
ing a  lip  from  which  the  contents  can  be  poured  or  dropped. 
Allow  it  come  almost,  but  not  entirely,  to  a  boil.  Stir  con- 
tinually. Allow  it  to  cool  a  little,  and  flavor  to  taste  with 
strong  essence  of  peppermint.  Then  drop  the  mass  on 
sheets  of  tin  or  of  white  paper.  To  drop  it  properly,  allow 
just  enough  to  gather  at  the  lip  of  the  saucepan,  and  then 
stroke  it  off  with  a  piece  of  stiff  wire.  They  should  dry  in 
a  warm,  place. 


XX.— INVALID  DIET. 

INVALIDS  NEED  THE  BEST  OF  DIET  ;  WHAT  INVALID  DIET  SHOULD 
FURNISH;  "SICK-DIET  KITCHENS;"  HOME  COOKING  FOR  THE 
SICK.  THIRTY  RECIPES  FO*  SICK-ROOM  DIET. 

WHAT  is  more  disgusting  to  an  invalid   than  to  be 
served  with  a  liberal  supply  of  food  adapted  to  a 
laboring  man  or  to  a  person  in  robust  health  ?    Deli- 
cate appetites  need  to  be  delicately  appealed  to  with  dainty 
dishes,  nicely  served.     But  these  dishes  must  be  nourishing 
and  easily  digested.      In  short,  the  problem  in  sick-room 
diet  is,  how  to  furnish  the  patient  the  most  valuable  nutri- 
tion in  the  pleasantest  form,  and  with  the  least  tax  upon  his 
enfeebled  powers. 

To  meet  this  need,  organized  movements  have  been  made 
in  many  cities  in  the  line  of  "  Sick-Diet  Kitchens."  Benevo- 
lent contributions  and  skilled  work  are  the  corner-stones  of 
these  institutions.  The  foods  are  well  prepared  by  compe- 
tent hands.  The  sick  who  choose  to  purchase  delicacies 
which  can  be  relied  on,  can  find  them  at  these  places. 
Those  who  are  too  poor  to  purchase,  but  who  are  deserving, 
can  have  them  free.  Instruction  concerning  diet  for  the  sick 
is  given  also. 

But  many  cannot  reach  such  establishments,  and  do  not 
care  to  if  they  can  ;  hence  the  chapter  of  directions  given 
below.  If  anywhere  in  cookery  good  materials  and  skillful 
manipulation  are  of  value  it  is  in  cooking  for  the  sick. 

RECIPES. 

Beef  Tea. — One  pound  of  lean  beef,  cut  into  small  pieces, 
into  a  jar  without  a  drop  of  water,  cover  tightly,  set  in 

248 


INVALID  DIET.  249 

a  pot  of  cold  water.  Heat  gradually  to  a  boil,  and  continue 
this  steadily  for  three  or  four  hours,  until  the  meat  is  like 
white  rags  and  the  juice  all  drawn  out.  Season  with  salt  to 
taste,  and  when  cold,  skim.  The  patient  will  often  prefer 
this  ice-cold. 

Beef  Tea,  No.  2. — Take  lean,  juicy  beef,  chopped  very  feiely ; 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  set  on  back  of  the  range  for  two 
hours;  then  draw  forward,  allowing  it  to  heat  gradually; 
then  boil  for  five  minutes.  Season  and  strain. 

Mutton  Broth. — One  pound  of  lean  mutton,  cut  small ;  one 
quart  of  water,  cold ;  one  tablespoonful  of  rice  or  barley, 
soaked  in  a  very  little  warm  water;  four  tablesp&onfuls 
of  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  with  a  little  chopped  parsley. 
Boil  the  meat,  unsalted,  in  the  water,  keeping  it  closely 
covered,  until  it  falls  to  pieces.  Strain  it  out,  add  the  soaked 
barley  or  rice;  simmer  half  an  hour,  stirring  often;  stir  in 
the  seasoning  and  the  milk,  and  simmer  five  minuter  after  it 
heats  up  well,  taking  care  it  does  not  burn.  Serve  hot,  with 
cream  crackers. 

CMcken  Broth. — Proceed  precisely  as  above,  but  substitute 
chicken  for  mutton. 

Chicken  Jelly. — Half  a  raw  chicken,  pounded  with  a  mallet, 
bones  and  meat  together ;  plenty  of  cold  water  to  cover  it 
well,  about  a  quart.  Heat  slowly  in  a  covered  vessel,  and 
let  it  simmer  until  the  meat  is  in  white  rags  and  the  liquid 
reduced  one-half.  Strain  and  press,  first  through  a  colan- 
der, then  through  a  coarse  cloth.  Salt  to  taste,  and  pepper 
if  you  think  best;  return  to  the  fire,  and  simmer  five  min- 
utes longer.  Skim  when  cool.  Give  to  the  patient  cold — 
just  from  the  ice — with  unleavened  wafers.  Keep  on  the 
ice,  or  make  into  sandwiches  by  putting  the  jelly  between 
thin  slices  of  bread  spread  lightly  with  butter. 

Soft  Boiled  Eggs. — Put  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  set  on 
ft  part  Qf  the  range  where  they  Will  not  bpil  for  several 


250  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

utes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  they  will  be  like  jelly,  per- 
fectly soft,  but  beautifully  done,  and  quite  digestible  by  even 
weak  stomachs. 

Egg  Gruel. — Beat  the  yelk  of  one  egg  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  sugar ;  pour  one  teacupful  of  boiling  water  on  it ;  add 
the  white  of  the  egg  beaten  to  a  froth,  with  any  seasoning 
or  spice  desired.  To  be  taken  warm. 

Raw  Egg. — Break  a  fresh  egg  into  a  glass,  beat  until  very 
light,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  port 
wine,  then  beat  again. 

Egg  Cream. — Beat  a  raw  egg  to  a  stiff  froth ;  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  white  sugar  and  a  half  wineglass  of  good  black- 
berry wine;  add  half  a  glass  of  cream;  beat  together 
thoroughly,  and  use  at  once. 

Indian-meal  GrueL — One  tablespoonful  of  fine  Indian-meal, 
mixed  smooth  with  cold  water  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt ; 
pour  upon  this  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  turn  into  a  sauce- 
pan to  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour ;  thin  it  with  boiling 
water  if  it  thickens  too  much,  and  stir  frequently ;  when  it 
is  done,  a  tablespoonful  of  cream  or  a  little  new  milk  may 
be  put  in  to  cool  it  after  straining,  but  if  the  patient's  stom- 
ach is  weak  it  is  best  without  either.  Some  persons  like  it 
sweetened  and  a  little  nutmeg  added,  but  to  many  it  is  more 
palatable  plain. 

Oatmeal  GrneL — Soak  a  handful  of  oatmeal  over  night  in 
water,  in  order  that  the  acid  gases  which  oatmeal  contains 
may  be  withdrawn.  Pour  off  the  water,  and  add  a  pint  of 
fresh ;  stir  it  well,  add  salt,  and  boil  an  hour  and  a  half. 
This  is  much  used,  prepared  in  this  way,  by  dyspeptics. 

Sago. — Soak  and  wash  it  well ;  add  a  pint  of  water,  a  little 
salt,  and  boil  till  clear.  Add  lemon-juice  or  wine,  if 
permitted. 

Arrow-root  JeUy.—Boil  a  pint  of  water  with  a  few  bits  of 


INVALID  DIET.  251 

cinnamon  or  yellow  rind  of  lemon ;  stir  into  it  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  arrow-root,  dissolved  in  a  little  water ;  boil  ten 
minutes  ;  strain,  salt,  and  season  with  sugar,  wine,  and  nut- 
meg, if  proper. 

Arrow-root  Broth. — Put  half  a  pint  of  water  into  a  sauce- 
pan ;  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  a  very 
little  salt.  Boil  it  up,  and  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  dissolved 
arrow-root ;  boil  five  minutes.  It  should  be  taken  warm 
and  be  very  thin. 

Cracked  Wheat. — To  one  quart  of  hot  water  take  one  small 
teacupful  of  cracked  wheat  and  a  little  salt ;  boil  slowly  for 
half  an  hour,  stirring  occasionally  to  prevent  burning.  Serve 
with  sugar  and  cream  or  new  milk. 

Cracker  Panada. — Six  Boston  crackers,  split;  two  table^ 
spoonfuls  of  white  sugar,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  little 
nutmeg ;  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them  well.  Split  the 
crackers,  and  pile  in  a  bowl  in  layers,  salt  and  sugar  scat* 
tered  among  them.  Cover  with  boiling  water  and  set  on 
the  hearth,  with  a  close  top  over  the  bowl,  for  at  least  an 
hour.  The  crackers  should  be  almost  clear  and  soft  as  jelly, 
but  not  broken.  Eat  from  the  bowl  with  more  sugar 
sprinkled  in. 

Bread  Panada. — Set  a  little  water  on  the  fire  in  a  very 
clean  saucepan  ;  add  a  glass  of  wine,  if  allowed,  some  sugar, 
nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel.  The  moment  it  boils  up  stir  in  a 
few  crumbs  of  stale  baker's  loaf.  Let  it  boil  very  fast  for 
five  minutes.  It  should  be  only  thick  enough  to  drink. 

Chicken  Panada.— Boil  a  chicken ;  take  a  few  bits  of  the 
breast  and  pound  fine  in  a  mortar.  Season  it  with  a  little 
salt,  a  grate  of  nutmeg,  and  a  bit  of  lemon-peel ;  boil  gently 
till  a  little  thick,  but  so  that  it  can  be  drank. 

Soft  Toast — Some  invalids  like  this  very  much  indeed,  and 
nearly  all  do  when  it  is  nicely  made,  Toast  well,  but 


252  EVERY   WOMAN  HER   OWN  COOK. 

too  brown,  a  couple  of  thin  slices  of  bread ;  put  them  on  a 
warm  plate  and  pour  over  boiling  water  ;  cover  quickly  with 
another  plate  of  the  same  size,  and  drain  the  water  off;  re- 
move the  upper  plate,  butter  the  toast,  put  it  in  the  oven 
one  minute,  and  then  cover  again  with  a  hot  plate  and  serve 
at  once. 

Milk  Porridge. — Two  cupfuls  of  best  oatmeal,  two  cupfuls 
of  water,  two  cupfuls  of  milk.  Soak  the  oatmeal  over  night 
in  the  water;  strain  in  the  morning,  and  boil  the  water  half 
an  hour.  Put  in  the  milk  with  a  little  salt,  boil  up  well,  and 
serve.  Eat  warm,  with  or  without  powdered  sugar. 

Thickened  Milk.— With  a  little  milk,  mix  smooth  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Pour  upon  it  a  quart 
of  boiling  milk,  and  when  both  are  thoroughly  mingled  put 
all  back  into  the  saucepan  and  boil  up  once,  being  careful 
not  to  burn,  and  stirring  all  the  time  to  keep  it  perfectly 
smooth  and  free  from  lumps.  Serve  with  slices  of  dry  toast. 
It  is  excellent  in  diarrhoea,  and  becomes  a  specific  by  scorch- 
ing the  flour  before  mixing  with  the  milk. 

Toast  Water. — Toast  stale  bread  until  quite  brown,  but  do 
not  burn  it ;  put  it  into  a  large  bowl,  and  pour  over  it  boil- 
ing water ;  let  it  stand  for  an  hour  or  so,  strain,  and  put  in 
a  piece  of  ice  before  drinking. 

Barley  Water. — Soak  one  pint  of  barley  in  lukewarm  water 
for  a  few  minutes ;  then  drain  off  the  water.  Put  the  barley 
in  three  quarts  of  cold  water  and  cook  slowly  until  the 
barley  is  quite  soft,  skimming  occasionally.  This  barley 
water,  when  cold,  flavor  with  a  little  jelly  or  lemonade. 

Bice  Milk — Pick  and  wash  the  rice  carefully ;  boil  it  in 
water  until  it  swells  and  softens ;  when  the  water  is  partly 
boiled  away,  add  some  milk.  It  may  be  boiled  entirely  in 
milk,  by  setting  the  vessel  in  which  the  rice  is  in  boiling 
water ;  sweeten  with  white  sugar  and  season  with  nutmeg. 
It  also  may  be  thickened  with  a  little  flour  or  beaten  egg. 


INVALID  DIET.  263 

Flaxseed  Tea. — One-half  pound  of  flaxseed,  one-half  pound 
of  rock  candy,  and  three  lemons  pared  and  sliced;  pour 
over  this  two  quarts  of  boiling  water ;  let  it  stand  until  very 
cold ;  strain  before  drinking.  This  is  good  for  a  cougk. 

Appleade. — Cut  two  large  apples  in  slices,  and  pour  on 
them  one  pint  of  boiling  water;  strain  well  and  sweeten. 
Ice  it  before  drinking. 

Apple  Water. — Roast  two  large,  tart  apples  until  they  are 
soft.  Put  them  in  a  pitcher,  pour  a  pint  of  cold  water  on 
them,  and  let  them  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  an  hour.  No 
sweetening  is  needed.  This  drink  will  be  found  very 
refreshing  if  the  patient  have  fever  or  eruptive  diseases. 

• 

Roast  Apples. — Good-sized,  juicy,  tart  apples  are  best  for 
roasting.  Wipe  them  clean,  and  put  in  a  slow  oven,  allow- 
ing an  hour  for  the  work  of  roasting.  When  entirely  done, 
sift  fine,  white  sugar  over  them,  and  serve  warm  or  cold,  as 
desired. 

Wine  Whey. — Sweeten  one  pint  of  milk  to  taste,  and  when 
boiling  throw  in  two  wineglassfuls  of  sherry  ;  when  the  curd 
forms,  strain  the  whey  through  a  muslin  bag  into  tumblers 

Blackberry  Sirup. — One  quart  of  blackberry  juice,  one 
pound  of  sugar,  one-half  ounce  of  nutmeg,  one-half  ounce 
ot  cinnamon,  one-fourth  of  an  ounce  of  cloves,  one-fourth 
of  an  ounce  of  allspice. 


GENERAL  HINTS. 


AFTER  the  broad  scope  of  this  book  has  been  covered, 
there  still  remain  many  things  to  be  said.  They  are 
hardly  worth  discussion  ;  mere  statement  is  sufficient. 
They  are  hints  merely  on  a  variety  of  subjects.  Let  it  not 
be  supposed  that  every  suggestion  here  given  has  been 
subjected  to  test  by  the  editor  of  the  department.  But 
every  one  has  been  culled  from  a  trustworthy  source  and 
has  been  subjected  to  careful  scrutiny.  All  of  them  are 
worth  trying;  but  try  them  conscientiously.  More  pre- 
scriptions have  failed  from  unskillful  handling  than  from 
inherent  defect.  An  Irish  cook  who  delayed  some  fifteen 
minutes  when  his  master  had  ordered  a  soft-boiled  egg, 
excused  himself  by  declaring  that  it  had  boiled  fast  all  the 
time,  but  showed  no  signs  whatever  of  becoming  soft.  So 
many  other  domestic  manipulators  fail. 

HINTS  FOR  THE  KITCHEN. 

To  Keep  Meat  Fresh. — Take  a  quart  of  best  vinegar,  two 
ounces  of  lump  sugar,  two  ounces  of  salt.  Boil  these 
together  for  a  few  minutes,  and  when  cold  anoint  with  a 
brush  the  meat  to  be  preserved.  For  fish  the  mixture  is  to 
be  applied  inside ;  for  poultry,  both  in  and  outside.  Or : 
Place  the  meat  in  the  centre  of  a  clean  earthenware  vessel 
and  closely  surround  it  with  common  charcoal.  Or :  Cover 
the  meat  lightly  with  bran  and  hang  it  in  some  passage 
where  there  is  a  current  of  air. 

To  Make  Poultry  Tender.— Give  the  fowl,  shortly  before 
killing,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 


EVERY    WO^tAN  HER   OWN  COOK.  255 

To  Test  Mushrooms. — In  eatable  mushrooms  the  stalk  and 
top  are  dirty  white  and  the  lower  part  has  a  lining  of  salmon 
fringe,  which  changes  to  russet  or  brown  soon  after  they 
are  gathered.  The  poisonous  manifest  all  colors,  and  those 
which  are  dead  white  above  and  below  should  be  let  alone. 
Sprinkle  salt  on  the  spongy  part,  and  if  they  turn  yellow 
they  are  poisonous,  but  if  they  become  black  they  are 
good.  Let  the  salt  remain  on  a  little  while  before  you 
decide  on  the  color.  Mushrooms  are  in  season  during 
September  and  October. 

To  Keep  Flour  Sweet—Insert  a  triangular  tube  of  boards 
or  tin  bored  full  of  small  holes,  into  the  centre  of  the  barrel, 
which  allows  the  air  to  reach  the  middle  of  the  meal,  and  it 
never  gets  musty.  A  barrel  of  good  flour,  dry  as  it  appears 
to  be,  contains  from  twelve  to  sixteen  pounds  of  water. 

To  Test  Coal  Oil. — Pour  a  little  oil  in  an  iron  spoon  and 
heat  it  over  a  lamp  until  it  is  moderately  warm  to  the 
touch.  If  the  oil  produces  vapor  which  can  be  set  on  fire 
by  a  flame  held  a  short  distance  above  the  liquid,  it  is  bad. 

To  Remove  Clinkers. — Throw  half  a  dozen  broken  oyster 
shells  into  the  fire  when  the  coal  is  all  aglow,  and  cover 
them  with  fresh  coal.  When  all  are  red  hot  the  clinkers 
become  doughy,  and  are  easily  removed. 

Cheap  Fire-Kindler. — Melt  three  pounds  of  rosin  in  a  quart 
of  tar,  and  stir  in  as  much  saw-dust  and  pulverized  charcoal 
as  you  can.  Spread  the  mass  upon  a  board  till  cool,  then 
break  into  lumps  as  big  as  your  thumb.  Light  it  with  a 
match. 

To  Keep  a  Broom. — If  a  broom  be  inserted  every  week  in 
boiling  suds,  it  will  be  toughened  and  last  much  longer,  will 
not  cut  the  carpet,  and  will  remain  elastic  as  a  new  broom. 

To  Preserve  Oil-cloths. — An  oil-cloth  should  never  be 
scrubbed  j  but  after  being  swept  it  should  be  cleaned  with 


256;  GENERAL  HINTS. 

ft  soft  cloth  and  lukewarm  or  cold  water.  Never  use  soap, 
or  water  that  is  hot.  When  dry,  sponge  it  over  with  milk ; 
then  wipe  with  a  soft,  dry  cloth. 

To  Prevent  a  Lamp  from  Smoking. — Soak  the  wick  in  vine- 
gar, and  dry  it  well  before  using. 

To  Remove  Rust  from  Steel. — Cover  with  sweet  oil,  well 
rubbed  on,  and  let  it  remain  forty-eight  hours,  then  rub 
With  unslacked  lime  powdered  fine. 

To  Prevent  Rust. — Take  one  pint  of  fat-oil  varnish,  mixed 
with  five  pints  of  highly  rectified  spirits  of  turpentine,  and 
rub  with  a  sponge  on  bright  stoves  or  mathematical  instru- 
ments, and  they  will  never  contract  spots  of  rust. 

To  Freshen  Stale  Bread  or  Cake. — Plunge  the  loaf  one 
instant  in  cold  water  and  lay  it  upon  a  tin  in  the  stove  for 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  It  will  be  like  new  bread,  without 
its  deleterious  qualities.  Stale  cake  is  thus  made  as  nice  as 
new  cake.  Use  immediately. 

To  Soften  Hard  Water. — Put  half  an  ounce  of  quicklime  in 
nine  quarts  of  water.  This  solution  in  a  barrel  of  hard 
water  will  make  it  soft.  A  teaspoonful  of  sal  soda  will 
soften  from  three  to  four  pails  of  hard  water. 

Time  of  Boiling  Green  Vegetables. — This  depends  very  much 
upon  the  age,  and  how  long  they  have  been  gathered.  The 
younger  and  more  freshly  gathered,  the  more  quickly  they 
are  cooked.  The  following  is  Miss  Parloa's  time-table  for 
cooking : 

Green  Corn,  25  minutes  to  I  hour. 


Potatoes,  boiled,  .  .  30  minutes. 
Potatoes,  baked,  .  .  45  minutes. 
Sweet  Potatoes,  boiled,  45  minutes. 
Sweet  Potatoes,  baked,  .  I  hour. 
Squash,  boiled,  .  .  25  minutes. 
Squash,  baked,  .  .  45  minutes. 
Green  Peas, boiled,  20  to  40  minutes. 
Shell  Beans,  boiled,  .  .  I  hour. 
String  Beans,  boiled, ,  i  to  3  houn, 

40 


Asparagus,  .  .  1 5  to  30  minutes. 
Spinach,  .  .  .  .  I  to  2  hours. 
Tomatoes,  fresh,  .  .  .  I  hour. 
Tomatoes,  canned,  .  30  minutes. 
Cabbage,  .  45  minutes  to  2  hours. 
Cauliflower,  .  .  .  I  to  2  hours. 
Dandelions,  t  ,  f  a  to  3  houn» 


EVERY   WOMAN  HER  OWN  COOK.  25? 

Keeping  Hams. — After  smoking,  make  coarse  cotton  cloth 
sacks  so  that  one  ham  will  go  in  easily,  pack  cut  hay  all 
around  between  the  sack  and  the  ham,  tie  the  sack  at  the 
top,  hang  in  a  cool  place,  and  be  sure  the  sacks  are  whole. 

To  Make  SMrts  Glossy. — Take  of  raw  starch,  one  ounce  ; 
gum  arabic,  one  drachm;  white  of  egg,  half  ounce;  soluble 
glass,  quarter  of  an  ounce ;  water.  Make  starch  into  fine 
cream,  dissolve  with  gum  in  a  little  hot  water,  cool  and  mix 
it  with  the  egg,  and  beat  up  the  mixture  with  starch  liquid; 
then  add  the  water,  glass  (solution),  and  shake  together. 
Moisten  the  starched  linen  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  the  liquid, 
and  use  polishing  iron  to  develop  gloss. 

Blackening  Stoves.— If  a  little  vinegar  or  cider  is  mixed 
with  stove  polish  it  will  not  take  so  much  rubbing  to  make 
the  stove  bright,  and  the  blackening  is  not  likely  to  fly  off 
in  fine  dust. 

Mnsty  Coffee  and  Tea  Pots. — These  may  be  cleaned  and 
sweetened  by  putting  wood  ashes  into  them  and  filling 
them  with  cold  water.  Set  on  the  stove  to  heat  gradually 
till  the  water  boils.  Let  it  boil  a  short  time,  then  put  aside 
to  cool,  when  the  inside  should  be  faithfully  washed  and 
scrubbed  in  hot  soap-suds. 

To  Clean  Pots  and  Kettles. — When  washing  greasy  pots  and 
kettles,  take  a  handful  of  meal  or  bran  and  rub  all  around. 
It  absorbs  all  the  grease  and  leaves  them  perfectly  clean. 

To  Clean  Ceilings  Smoked  by  Kerosene  Lamps. — Wash  with  a 
sufficiently  strong  solution  of  soda  in  water. 

To  Prepare  a  New  Iron  Kettle  for  Use.— Fill  with  clean  potato 
parings;  boil  them  for  an  hour  or  more,  then  wash  the 
kettle  with  hot  water,  wipe  it  dry,  and  rub  it  with  a  little 
lard ;  repeat  the  rubbing  half  a  dozen  times  after  using. 

To  Remove  Fruit  Stains.— Procure  a  bottle  of  Javelle  water. 
If  the  stains  are  wet  with  this  before  the  articles  are  put 


£58  GENERAL  HINTS. 

into  the  wash  they  will  be  completely  removed.  Those  who 
cannot  get  Javelle  water  can  make  a  solution  of  chloride  of 
lime.  Four  ounces  of  the  chloride  of  lime  is  to  be  put  into 
a  quart  of  water  in  a  bottle,  and  after  thoroughly  shaking 
allow  the  dregs  to  settle.  The  clear  liquid  will  remove  the 
stains.  Be  careful  to  thoroughly  rinse  the  article  in  clear 
water  before  bringing  it  in  contact  with  soap.  When  Javelle 
water  is  used  this  precaution  is  not  necessary;  with  chloride 
of  lime  liquid  it  is,  or  the  article  will  be  harsh  and  stiff. 

Washing. — To  wash  flannels :  First,  never  apply  soap 
directly  to  any  woolen  fabric.  Make  a  strong,  hot  suds  and 
plunge  the  garment  in  it.  Second,  never  dip  a  flannel  in 
cold,  or  even  cool,  water,  but  always  hot.  Wash  first  in  hot 
suds  and  rinse  in  hot  water  made  very  blue.  Third,  dry- 
flannels  as  quickly  as  possible.  Wring  dry  from  the  second 
water  and  hang  either  in  the  hot  sun  or  before  a  brisk  fire. 
When  nearly  dry,  press  with  a  hot  iron.  None  but  soft 
water  should  be  used  upon  flannels,  and  resin  soap  is  much 
inferior  to  common  soft  soap,  as  it  hardens  the  fibres  of 
woolens. 

To  wash  chintz :  Take  two  pounds  of  rice  and  boil  it  in 
two  gallons  of  water  till  soft.  When  done,  pour  the  whole 
in  a  tub ;  let  it  stand  till  of  about  the  warmth  you  use  in 
general  for  colored  linens  ;  then  put  the  chintz  in  and  use 
the  rice  instead  of  soap.  Wash  it  in  this  till  the  dirt  appears 
to  be  out ;  then  boil  the  same  quantity,  as  above,  but  strain 
the  rice  from  the  water  and  mix  it  in  warm,  clear  water. 
Wash  in  this  till  quite  clean ;  afterward  rinse  it  in  the  water 
in  which  you  have  boiled  the  rice.  This  will  answer  the 
end  of  starch  and  no  dew  will  affect  it  and  it  will  be  stiff  as 
long  as  you  wear  it. 

To  wash  clothes  without  fading  them :  Peel  Irish  pota- 
toes and  grate  them  in  cold  water.  Saturate  the  articles  to 
be  washed  in  this  potato-water  and  they  can  then  be  washed 


EVERV    WOMAN  HER  OWiV  COOK.  250 


with  soap  without  any  running  of  the  color.  Oil  may  be 
taken  out  of  carpets  with  this  potato-water  when  simple  cold 
water  would  make  the  color  run  ruinously.  This  will  also 
set  the  color  in  figured  black  muslins,  in  colored  merinos, 
in  ribbons,  and  other  silk  goods.  Often  the  potato-water 
cleanses  sufficiently  without  the  use  of  soap  ;  but  the  latter 
is  necessary  where  there  is  any  grease.  When  no  soap  is 
needed,  take  the  grated  potato  and  rub  the  goods  with  a 
flannel  rag. 

Sour  milk  removes  iron-rust  from  white  goods. 

To  make  silk  which  has  been  wrinkled  appear  exactly  like 
new,  sponge  it  on  the  surface  with  a  weak  solution  of  gum 
arabic  or  white  glue,  and  iron  on  the  wrong  side. 

A  tablespoonful  of  black  pepper  put  in  the  first  water  in 
which  gray  or  buff  linens  are  washed  will  keep  them  from 
spotting.  It  will  also  keep  the  colors  of  colored  or  black 
cambrics  or  muslin  from  running,  and  does  not  harden  the 
water. 

To  extract  ink  from  cotton,  silk,  and  woolen  goods,  satu- 
rate the  spot  with  spirits  of  turpentine  and  let  it  remain 
several  hours  ;  then  rub  it  between  the  hands.  It  will  dis- 
appear without  injuring  the  color  or  texture  of  the  fabric. 
For  linen,  dip  the  spotted  part  in  pure  tallow  and  the  ink 
will  disappear. 

When  clothes  have  acquired  an  unpleasant  odor  by  being 
kept  from  the  air,  charcoal  laid  in  the  folds  will  remove  it. 

To  take  oil  or  grease  from  cloth  :  Drop  on  the  spot 
some  oil  of  tartar  or  salt  of  wormwood  which  has  been  left 
in  a  damp  place  until  it  is  fluid  ;  then  immediately  wash  the 
place  with  lukewarm  soft  water  and  then  with  cold  water, 
wad  the  spot  will  disappear. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

AGRICULTURE   LIBRARY 

^  Giannini  Hall  -  Tel.  No.  642-4493 
This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


LD  21-40m-2,'69 
(J6057slO)476 — A-32 


General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


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